Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:22 AM - Re: Victoria Falls (pj.ladd)
2. 03:21 AM - Re: 912 ULS starter (icrashrc)
3. 03:35 AM - vibrations (Ted Cowan)
4. 05:19 AM - Eliminating harmonics (Mike Welch)
5. 05:19 AM - Stits (william sullivan)
6. 05:27 AM - Re: 912 ULS starter (Thom Riddle)
7. 05:48 AM - Re: Stits (Mike Welch)
8. 06:06 AM - Re: Re: 912 ULS starter (herb)
9. 06:18 AM - Re: vibrations (lucien)
10. 06:34 AM - Re: vibrations (Richard & Martha Neilsen)
11. 06:35 AM - Re: vibrations (robcannon)
12. 06:35 AM - Re: 912 ULS starter (Thom Riddle)
13. 06:42 AM - Re: Mixture control... (Jack B. Hart)
14. 06:50 AM - Re: vibrations (John Hauck)
15. 06:50 AM - Re: Re: 912 ULS starter (herb)
16. 07:05 AM - Re: Stits (frank.goodnight)
17. 07:10 AM - Re: vibrations (robert bean)
18. 07:17 AM - Re: Mixture control... (herb)
19. 08:27 AM - Re: Victoria Falls (lucien)
20. 11:20 AM - stits (william sullivan)
21. 11:49 AM - Re: stits (frank.goodnight)
22. 12:34 PM - stits (william sullivan)
23. 12:50 PM - stits (robert bean)
24. 01:12 PM - Re: now an actual Kolb question (lucien)
25. 01:18 PM - Re: stits (frank.goodnight)
26. 01:46 PM - Re: vibrations (Carlos)
27. 02:21 PM - Re: Mixture control... (Jack B. Hart)
28. 02:24 PM - Re: stits (Dana Hague)
29. 02:34 PM - Re: vibrations (JetPilot)
30. 03:11 PM - Re: Re: now an actual Kolb question (John Hauck)
31. 04:19 PM - Re: vibrations (lucien)
32. 04:52 PM - Re: Re: 912 ULS starter (ElleryWeld@aol.com)
33. 05:03 PM - Re: Re: vibrations (Larry Cottrell)
34. 07:38 PM - Re: Re: now an actual Kolb question (Herb)
35. 07:52 PM - Re: Re: now an actual Kolb question (John Hauck)
36. 07:59 PM - Re: Re: now an actual Kolb question (Herb)
37. 08:10 PM - Re: Re: now an actual Kolb question (John Hauck)
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Subject: | Re: Victoria Falls |
Do you fly the trike from the back seat?>>
Hi John,
Perhaps more accurately `being flown`. I know my limitations. I flew a
weightshift when I was considering changing from gliding to
ultralighting and although I managed OK when I had time to think about
it I decided that one day when I dropped out of the bottom of the glide
slope 10 ft above the ground, I would push instead of pull by reflex and
that was a complication i could do without.
I have seen young instructors step out of weightshifts into 3 axis
machines with no trouble but I know I am not as switched on as I once
was. The guy who flew me round the Falls parked the weightshift and then
started up a six seat helicopter and flew a group back around the same
course.
Africa was a new experience for me. Starting from Capetown and working
north through Durban, Pretoria, Jo`berg, then to a Game Park and then
north again to Zambia it was noticeable that everything `slowed
up`.Hotel service fell off, organisation began to disintegrate. There
were several in our group including me who needed wheelchairs at
airports. It seemed to be beyond capability to get 4 wheelchairs in the
same place, at the same time to synchronise with a planes arrival or
departure.
>From a group of 40 with 2 pieces of luggage each and 4internal flights
they managed to lose 64 pieces for more than 24 hours and almost sent
the whole groups luggage back to Heathrow about halfway through the
trip.
Probably the most exciting bit was being chased by a massive she
elephant which decided that our 12 person Jeep was too close and
objected. She came out of the bush like a locomotive, ears up. trunk
out. We were facing her and the driver hit reverse and accelerated
backwards down the game trail at about 40 mph with the elephant bashing
on the hood with her trunk. We slowly outdistanced her and got round a
bend in the trail and relaxed when we realised she was still coming.
Away we wnt again until we reached aplace where we could turn round and
get out of there. Got some good pics though.
Cheers
Pat
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Subject: | Re: 912 ULS starter |
DC clamp-on meters may not be a dime a dozen but they are easy to find. I have
one as well. I just don't have the entire system to use it on at the moment...
Thanks for checking your 912ul. You may want to check the calibration and/or settings
on your meter. Somehow i think your estimate of 75 amps is closer to reality.
I would hate to think i ran 6 ga cable to the starter when 18 ga would
have worked just fine!
--------
Scott
www.ill-EagleAviation.com
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238454#238454
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For those that have not been privy to my harmonics on my 912, here is the
following. The first thing I thought was wrong was the prop not being set
"right" so I developed a laser that sits on the tip of my blades, one at a
time, while I set them so they are near perfect. The blades themselves were
all different weights, one a different length and two had what looked like
cloth bumps showing. I sent them back and they came back better but still
not the same. One has a different twist at the middle and now has a smaller
tip. This is what WD thinks are good blades. I believe I have a set of
reject blades all thrown together. My personal belief. I sent them back
twice but they are still basically the same. I have been balancing large RC
props for thirty years and have never seen blades like these. I super
balanced them. Same problem. I super tuned the carbs -- three times! Not
the problem. I changed the angle of my titan exhaust outlets -- twice! I
added some angle sections to my pipes so the exhaust would not hit the
blades directly -- no joy. I have stainless tubes with holes on the ends of
my pipes and they do reduce the noise a bunch but I still have the
harmonics. I have taped the wing fabric top and bottom and checked all the
fittings, pieces and mounts for loose or dangling fabric. I changed my gap
seal three times. I started with no spacer, spent $450 for a four incher,
no help. That changed my balance where it was not desirable, dont know why.
I took it off and put a two inch spacer on and that seems to work good
except the harmonics are still there. I changed spark plug gaps and then
spark plugs. nothing helps. This harmonic sound does not increase in
beat, just intensity to the point where it actually beats on the back of my
helmet. My anr removes most of it so I can tolerate this noise. It is
noticeable from the ground as a rum rum rum sound like it out of tune. A
friend has a new set of WD props like mine down in Florida and I will try
them as soon as I get down there. If that makes it better then you can bet
I will call WD with the 'proof' and see what they will do. Right now I just
live with it. As far as changing type of prop -- well, how many of you have
an extra grand or more to just 'try' another prop? I dont. I should not
have to. I paid my money and should have a good prop. Like I said, I have
not absolutely proven it is the prop yet but I will. By the way, one blade
really shows the cloth weaving and I believe it is the culprit. Ever hear a
digery do or however it is spelled? That hum hum is what I am talking
about. Thought WD would replace it last time but they didnt. Not exactly
the service I would expect from such a reputable dealer. Guess I dont have
enough 'fame' to get good service from them. My life as it is. At least my
rum rum is accompanied by zoom zoom and that makes it worth it. Ted Cowan,
Alabama, Slingshot 912 UL. p.s. I still have a fifty buck reward for
someone with a cure. (something we have not already thought of or done)
Hauck is the first one for the blades being bad.
Message 4
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Subject: | Eliminating harmonics |
Ted=2C
I have a couple of suggestions to try out=2C if you haven't already tried
these.
First=2C get a few lengths of plastic tubing=2C and tape the ends securel
y near where you think harmonics are coming from=2C like the exhaust tip=2C
near the prop hub=2C the motor mounts=2C etc. Place the other end inside
the cabin=2C so you can listen to each one during a test.
Whatever it is that is generating the harmonic vibration=2C it will be loud
est at the source.
Once you have the tubes secured=2C do a run up to the worst harmonic leve
l=2C and listen to each hose. Usually (!)=2C the noise source is much loud
er in one hose. Just a thought.....
Next=2C to help identify the source=2C change something (very slight). I
f you think the prop is likely the culprit=2C try taping the entire leading
edge of each blade with duct tape. It'll only be on for a few seconds=2C
so I don't think it should hurt a thing!!
With three exact lengths of duct tape=2C place them on the leading edge o
f the blades=2C splitting the middle of the tape down the sharp edge of the
blade. Do a worst case harmonic run-up=2C and see if things change (harmo
nics are better or worse). It's a good chance that the duct tape will chan
ge the prop blades enough to alter their effect at creating a harmonic reso
nance. The tape will change the blade's profile=2C balance (very slight!!)
=2C and performance.
A quick run-up should give you an idea about whether or not the blades ar
e the cause. Remove the tape.
Mike Welch
MkIII
_________________________________________________________________
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- I am doing some planning before ordering the stits materials for the Fi
restar.- Has anyone used the lightweight fabric- 1.7 ounce?- How was th
e durability?- Both sets of the previous coverings were 2.7 ounce.- One
was Aerothane, and one was Polytone.- UV protection is not a prime conce
rn in Connecticut, so I can go with the lighter weight paint jobs.- I am
going to go with Polytone, not only for weight but for ease of application
and repair.- Also, I hold the record for bad paint jobs.
- Also, if I cover the pod, should I use the heavier fabric there?- Lot
s of minor bashing could be expected while climbing in and out, and abrasio
n from leaning into it.-
- Another question, not mentioned in the book- What about UV protection o
n the inside of the pod fabric?- There is no mention of the exterior coat
ing protecting all the way through, and the fabric there is exposed to more
sunlight.-
-
-------------------------
-------------------------
Bill Sullivan
-------------------------
-------------------------
Windsor Locks, Ct.
-------------------------
-------------------------
FS 447
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Subject: | Re: 912 ULS starter |
Scott,
The Rotax 912 Installation manual states that the regulator is rated for 75 Amps
continuous and that is where my aging memory got the 75 A number. The #6GA wire
is what the installation manual calls for too, I believe. The manual also
states that the battery required is 18AH.
My clamp on meter is nearly new. Compared to two other meters I've tested it against
recently, it is accurate, so 13 Amps cranking current is what I'm getting.
I suspect it would be a bit higher in colder weather and a little less in the
summer.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
http://riddletr.googlepages.com/sportpilot-cfi
http://riddletr.googlepages.com/a%26pmechanix
A complex system that works is invariably found to have evolved from a simple system
that works.
- John Gaule
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238466#238466
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Bill=2C
I have a LOT of 1.7 oz Poly Fiber left over from my MkIII build. When I
first bought my plane from Kolb=2C the fabric choice was to use 1.7 oz. La
ter=2C 2.7 was found to be a better choice for the MkIII. So=2C I bought l
ots more fabric @ 2.7 oz.
I have not taken the time to figure out how much of the 1.7 oz stuff I ha
ve=2C but it appears to be quite a bit. If you're interested=2C I'd sell i
t to you at a good price. Send me an email off-list to discuss it=2C if yo
u want.
I don't think 2.7 oz would be necessary for the fuselage. For rubbing=2C
I don't think it matters much. For a puncture=2C whatever would poke a ho
le in 1.7 will surely poke a hole in 2.7.
Yes=2C I felt the Poly Spray UV coating was more important inside the cab
in=2C compared to the outside. It seems like it would get more sun. I put
Poly Spray on ALL my Poly Fabric. 3 coats on the sunny side of the wings
=2C 2 on the bottom=2C etc.
Mike Welch
do not archive
From: williamtsullivan@ATT.NET
Subject: Kolb-List: Stits
I am doing some planning before ordering the stits materials for the Fire
star. Has anyone used the lightweight fabric- 1.7 ounce? How was the dura
bility? Both sets of the previous coverings were 2.7 ounce. One was Aerot
hane=2C and one was Polytone. UV protection is not a prime concern in Conn
ecticut=2C so I can go with the lighter weight paint jobs. I am going to g
o with Polytone=2C not only for weight but for ease of application and repa
ir. Also=2C I hold the record for bad paint jobs.
Also=2C if I cover the pod=2C should I use the heavier fabric there? Lot
s of minor bashing could be expected while climbing in and out=2C and abras
ion from leaning into it.
Another question=2C not mentioned in the book- What about UV protection o
n the inside of the pod fabric? There is no mention of the exterior coatin
g protecting all the way through=2C and the fabric there is exposed to more
sunlight.
Bill Sullivan
Windsor Locks=2C Ct.
FS 447
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=99 SkyDrive: Get 25 GB of free online storage.
http://windowslive.com/online/skydrive?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_skydrive_032009
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: 912 ULS starter |
Unless the meter had a peak and hold ability...it did no read the
initial in rush current to the essentially stalled motor.. To get the
motor turning takes a multiple of 15 amps for a fraction of a
second..maybe longer... Marginal wire side coupled with necessary
long runs and a marginal battery ...is always a problem... Herb
At 05:21 AM 4/9/2009, you wrote:
>
>DC clamp-on meters may not be a dime a dozen but they are easy to
>find. I have one as well. I just don't have the entire system to use
>it on at the moment...
>
>Thanks for checking your 912ul. You may want to check the
>calibration and/or settings on your meter. Somehow i think your
>estimate of 75 amps is closer to reality. I would hate to think i
>ran 6 ga cable to the starter when 18 ga would have worked just fine!
>
>--------
>Scott
>
>www.ill-EagleAviation.com
>
>do not archive
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238454#238454
>
>
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tc1917(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
> For those that have not been privy to my harmonics on my 912, here is the
> following. The first thing I thought was wrong was the prop not being set
> "right" so I developed a laser that sits on the tip of my blades, one at a
> time, while I set them so they are near perfect. The blades themselves were
> all different weights, one a different length and two had what looked like
> cloth bumps showing. I sent them back and they came back better but still
> not the same. One has a different twist at the middle and now has a smaller
> tip. This is what WD thinks are good blades. I believe I have a set of
> reject blades all thrown together. My personal belief. I sent them back
> twice but they are still basically the same. I have been balancing large RC
> props for thirty years and have never seen blades like these. I super
> balanced them. Same problem. I super tuned the carbs -- three times! Not
> the problem. I changed the angle of my titan exhaust outlets -- twice! I
> added some angle sections to my pipes so the exhaust would not hit the
> blades directly -- no joy. I have stainless tubes with holes on the ends of
> my pipes and they do reduce the noise a bunch but I still have the
> harmonics. I have taped the wing fabric top and bottom and checked all the
> fittings, pieces and mounts for loose or dangling fabric. I changed my gap
> seal three times. I started with no spacer, spent $450 for a four incher,
> no help. That changed my balance where it was not desirable, dont know why.
> I took it off and put a two inch spacer on and that seems to work good
> except the harmonics are still there. I changed spark plug gaps and then
> spark plugs. nothing helps. This harmonic sound does not increase in
> beat, just intensity to the point where it actually beats on the back of my
> helmet. My anr removes most of it so I can tolerate this noise. It is
> noticeable from the ground as a rum rum rum sound like it out of tune. A
> friend has a new set of WD props like mine down in Florida and I will try
> them as soon as I get down there. If that makes it better then you can bet
> I will call WD with the 'proof' and see what they will do. Right now I just
> live with it. As far as changing type of prop -- well, how many of you have
> an extra grand or more to just 'try' another prop? I dont. I should not
> have to. I paid my money and should have a good prop. Like I said, I have
> not absolutely proven it is the prop yet but I will. By the way, one blade
> really shows the cloth weaving and I believe it is the culprit. Ever hear a
> digery do or however it is spelled? That hum hum is what I am talking
> about. Thought WD would replace it last time but they didnt. Not exactly
> the service I would expect from such a reputable dealer. Guess I dont have
> enough 'fame' to get good service from them. My life as it is. At least my
> rum rum is accompanied by zoom zoom and that makes it worth it. Ted Cowan,
> Alabama, Slingshot 912 UL. p.s. I still have a fifty buck reward for
> someone with a cure. (something we have not already thought of or done)
> Hauck is the first one for the blades being bad.
Well I do have to defend WD a little bit here. Yeah it's wierd if they're not fixing
malformed blades for you, but I can't say their service has been any problem
for me.
After all, my plane does have that big ol "Experimental" sticker plastered onto
the side of it. So ultimately, the plane is an experiment, so I have to keep
in mind and take that responsibility. Things are just going to come up if I have
to make changes.
In my case, I'm just going to have to keep "experimenting", that's just how it
is with experimental. Its on me to do the work here and I can't expect everyone
else or even WD to know exactly what's wrong with my setup. I kind of have
to take the bull by the horns and get to work on things for which others might
not have ready answers. That's kind of how life is in general in fact, and is
no reflection on anyone else...
If this particular prop wont' work, it just wont work and that'll just be a consequence
of my particular setup.
It sure isn't the fault of the prop. I've used WD before (on my FSII) and it was
a superb prop. This one I have is impeccably made and I sure can't argue with
the performance.
But I am going to try different prop types. At this point I've exhausted most other
things to try tho there are still a couple more things to try. But that's
just how it goes with our flying machines...
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238472#238472
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Ted
I have chased noise issues with my VW over the years and think that the
engine mount is the area that you may want to look into. Try softer
vibration dampers or move them around so that they isolate engine/prop
vibrations better and still control the position of the engine/prop.
My VW high mount had the lowest noise in the cockpit and lest vibration
transmitted to the airframe. The redrive I was using at that time would
vibration crack engine parts quite regularly yet the noise level in the
cockpit was so low that sometimes I could take my headphones off for short
periods of time in flight. The engine was real loose on the mount allowing
the engine to visibly twist away from the torque applied to the prop. After
about a hundred hours the vibration dampers were destroyed.
When I designed the lower VW engine mount I used a damper system that placed
the dampers further apart to better control the engine and extend the life
of the dampers. It worked but the noise and vibration in the cockpit
increased so much that I had to use ear plugs under my ANR headsets. Since
then I have reduced the vibrations a bunch and the noise a bit with a
smoother redrive. I'm now on a quest for softer damper bushings.
Food for thought and as always worth what you paid for it.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Cowan" <tc1917@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 6:35 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: vibrations
>
> For those that have not been privy to my harmonics on my 912, here is the
> following. The first thing I thought was wrong was the prop not being set
> "right" so I developed a laser that sits on the tip of my blades, one at a
> time, while I set them so they are near perfect. The blades themselves
> were all different weights, one a different length and two had what looked
> like cloth bumps showing. I sent them back and they came back better but
> still not the same. One has a different twist at the middle and now has a
> smaller tip. This is what WD thinks are good blades. I believe I have a
> set of reject blades all thrown together. My personal belief. I sent
> them back twice but they are still basically the same. I have been
> balancing large RC props for thirty years and have never seen blades like
> these. I super balanced them. Same problem. I super tuned the carbs --
> three times! Not the problem. I changed the angle of my titan exhaust
> outlets -- twice! I added some angle sections to my pipes so the exhaust
> would not hit the blades directly -- no joy. I have stainless tubes with
> holes on the ends of my pipes and they do reduce the noise a bunch but I
> still have the harmonics. I have taped the wing fabric top and bottom and
> checked all the fittings, pieces and mounts for loose or dangling fabric.
> I changed my gap seal three times. I started with no spacer, spent $450
> for a four incher, no help. That changed my balance where it was not
> desirable, dont know why. I took it off and put a two inch spacer on and
> that seems to work good except the harmonics are still there. I changed
> spark plug gaps and then spark plugs. nothing helps. This harmonic
> sound does not increase in beat, just intensity to the point where it
> actually beats on the back of my helmet. My anr removes most of it so I
> can tolerate this noise. It is noticeable from the ground as a rum rum
> rum sound like it out of tune. A friend has a new set of WD props like
> mine down in Florida and I will try them as soon as I get down there. If
> that makes it better then you can bet I will call WD with the 'proof' and
> see what they will do. Right now I just live with it. As far as changing
> type of prop -- well, how many of you have an extra grand or more to just
> 'try' another prop? I dont. I should not have to. I paid my money and
> should have a good prop. Like I said, I have not absolutely proven it is
> the prop yet but I will. By the way, one blade really shows the cloth
> weaving and I believe it is the culprit. Ever hear a digery do or however
> it is spelled? That hum hum is what I am talking about. Thought WD would
> replace it last time but they didnt. Not exactly the service I would
> expect from such a reputable dealer. Guess I dont have enough 'fame' to
> get good service from them. My life as it is. At least my rum rum is
> accompanied by zoom zoom and that makes it worth it. Ted Cowan, Alabama,
> Slingshot 912 UL. p.s. I still have a fifty buck reward for someone with
> a cure. (something we have not already thought of or done) Hauck is the
> first one for the blades being bad.
>
>
>
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Ted - I took some training last summer in a Rans S 12 in preparation for my Kolb
first flight. (it was the only high thrust line pusher around). It has the
same harmonics you describe (annoying in the cockpit, and annoying on the ground)
It has a Rotax 912 with a three blade "kool"prop. They have over 1700 hours
on this plane and motor, and they have accepted this thrum thrum thrum and part
of the package. When I flew it I just chose a throttle setting that minimized
it the most.
Don't get me wrong here, if I were in your shoes I would not give up untill I
had a explanation/solution, but it may not be the warp drive that is the culprit.
good luck, Rob Cannon
ps: Rans has probably sold more 912 pushers than most - I would call up their tech
support guy and see what he says.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238478#238478
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Subject: | Re: 912 ULS starter |
The 912 installation manual also shows a 300A peak (1 second max) for the regulator.
I was reading continuous cranking amps, not peak starting current.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
http://riddletr.googlepages.com/sportpilot-cfi
http://riddletr.googlepages.com/a%26pmechanix
A complex system that works is invariably found to have evolved from a simple system
that works.
- John Gaule
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238480#238480
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Subject: | Re: Mixture control... |
At 09:57 PM 4/8/09 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
>Jack
>
> See your post and am reminded...how is the mixture control
>coming...? IMHO...not only does it promise a bit better fuel burn
>through better mixture control...but also may allow us to dial out
>the egt peak as we drop below 5k rpms? Perhaps make the engine less
>susceptible to seizures...?
>
Herb,
For flying this winter and spring, so far, have been mean weather wise.
Most of the time my cold weather gear was used to blow snow. Spent most of
the winter in my basement shop working on stuff to try this spring. Most of
it is weight reduction stuff.
I flew for the first time in March with the new filter cover (ram scoop)
positioned at about sixty degrees up from horizontal. But I took no
pressure measurements. I was not able influence EGT with the cover in this
position. This got me to thinking about what to do to increase the positive
pressure over the float bowl. I realized that it would be better to
reference this pressure off something in the carburetor. I removed the
carburetor and put a static pressure tap plus a positive dynamic pressure
tap into the carburetor inlet. If the static tap does not do the job, I
will move to the positive dynamic tap. Since this will produce much more
pressure than needed, I will run the line to simple liquid bubble pressure
regulator to obtain constant but ground adjustable pressure. By adding the
filter air scoop to recover filter pressure loss, I have complicated things,
and so I will have to run quite a few flight tests to record air filter
pressure drops at various engine speeds and scoop positions. Then I will be
able to get back to working with the mixture control.
I remain very excited about the mixture control. The ability to adjust EGT
in flight lets one dial in the same burn rate for a given engine rpm. One
does not have sweat "should I have added fuel" thoughts. I have wondered
how it would work on a Rotax 447, but for me it is too late for that. I am
running this engine at much higher EGT than I did the Rotax.
The Victor had the same problem as you described for below 5,000 rpm. At
first I thought it was a leaky exhaust coupler. I modified the system and
changed clamps. Still the same problem. Out of frustration, I started
looking at the Bing. I noticed how the slide was polishing and concluded
the throttle return spring was too weak, and the slide needle assembly was
bouncing. Went to a heavier spring and things looked better. Then I
decided to modify the carb needle. It was an eye opener. I was able get a
flat EGT across the whole cruise rpm range. This proves to me that no
engine manufacturer can tell you what needle jet combination is correct for
every given application and it is unfair expectation. What they recommend
may work on the test bench, but one must consider this is just a starting
point.
Rambling. The snow blower is off and the mower is ready to go.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
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That hum hum is what I am talking
> about. Thought WD would replace it last time but they didnt. Not exactly
> the service I would expect from such a reputable dealer. Guess I dont
> have enough 'fame' to get good service from them. My life as it is. At
> least my rum rum is accompanied by zoom zoom and that makes it worth it.
> Ted Cowan, Alabama, Slingshot 912 UL. p.s. I still have a fifty buck
> reward for someone with a cure. (something we have not already thought of
> or done) Hauck is the first one for the blades being bad.
I've offered several suggestions since Ted C has had the harmonic problem.
Guess none of them worked.
Also offered to try my WD off my airplane.
I believe the place to start is remove the suspect prop and hub. Put
another WD prop on from a setup that has no problem. Test it. If it
developes the same problem, then it is not the prop. If the problem
disappears, then you have more ammunition to go back to WD and get a
replacement prop.
I also recommended contacting Daryl to request another prop and hub to use
for a test. I have a good feeling he would do that to see that his
customers are satisfied.
I don't think 'fame' has a thing to do with getting good service from WD.
This company has been in business for many years, and not because they
mistreated their customers or because they sold inferior products.
While I am recommending, highly recommend you give Daryl a call at
1-800-833-9357. I reminded him of your problem. He would be glad to
discuss it with you.
john h
mkIII - 60 west of Ted Cowan's airstrip.
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Subject: | Re: 912 ULS starter |
The regulator should no be in the circuit when starting... I was
thinking about the current draw when starting motors... couple of
seconds......:-) Ohms law ... The fractional resistance of a
conductor becomes appreciable at high currents which results in a
proportionate voltage drop.... Herb
At 08:35 AM 4/9/2009, you wrote:
>
>The 912 installation manual also shows a 300A peak (1 second max)
>for the regulator.
>
>I was reading continuous cranking amps, not peak starting current.
>
>--------
>Thom Riddle
>Buffalo, NY
>http://riddletr.googlepages.com/sportpilot-cfi
>http://riddletr.googlepages.com/a%26pmechanix
>
>A complex system that works is invariably found to have evolved from
>a simple system that works.
> - John Gaule
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238480#238480
>
>
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Hi William ;
I covered my firestar 2 with 1.7 oz fabric about a year ago. I
fold , unfold, and trailer my
plane every time I fly. I know it's my fault , but it seems like I get
a new ,bang, bump , cut,
scrape, or ding every week. 2.7 may not help much but it sure can't
hurt. If I were doing it
over again I would use 2.7oz.
I don't know much about a/c covering but I would use polytone because
it's easy to repair
and I'm not interested in pretty or shiny. As for uv protection- the
whole covering and paint
process- was enough of a pain in the butt that I would use plenty of
silver so I would not
have to recover for a LONG LONG time.
I did not cover my cage and don't use a nose bowl or windscreen. The
main trouble with
with that is the wind noise interfears with my hand held radio. The A/
C flys fine. Maybe
some ultra star drivers can help [ please] .
I share your thoughts about cage cover and uv protection . Why
protect the outside of
the fabric when the sun shines on the inside and destroys the fabric
from there?
Frank Goodnight
Firstar 2
HKS 75 hrs
On Apr 9, 2009, at 7:14 AM, william sullivan wrote:
> I am doing some planning before ordering the stits materials for
> the Firestar. Has anyone used the lightweight fabric- 1.7 ounce?
> How was the durability? Both sets of the previous coverings were
> 2.7 ounce. One was Aerothane, and one was Polytone. UV protection
> is not a prime concern in Connecticut, so I can go with the lighter
> weight paint jobs. I am going to go with Polytone, not only for
> weight but for ease of application and repair. Also, I hold the
> record for bad paint jobs.
> Also, if I cover the pod, should I use the heavier fabric there?
> Lots of minor bashing could be expected while climbing in and out,
> and abrasion from leaning into it.
> Another question, not mentioned in the book- What about UV
> protection on the inside of the pod fabric? There is no mention of
> the exterior coating protecting all the way through, and the fabric
> there is exposed to more sunlight.
>
> Bill Sullivan
> Windsor Locks, Ct.
> FS 447
>
>
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Ted, borrowing other props for comparison would be my first choice
too. I know I wouldn't
be happy if I had paid for new blades and got blades that didn't even
look cosmetically perfect.
The "proof" approach is the way to go.
I also have a rum rum but I have noticed that some of it may be my
hearing. I hear it just walking up the driveway, in time with my
heartbeat.
Something to go along with my tinnitus.
If you have a two blade WD hub that would be a good thing to try.
That reminds me
to order a two blade hub for my powerfin. I sure would like to be
able to keep the
70" two blade WD on my suzuki because it gives me what seems like 10
hp better performance than the
3 blade 65" powerfin I had on before.
Mix match and compare.
BB
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Mixture control... |
Good info Jack...much appreciated...
you may be the only engineer in the world working to improve 2
strokes... :-)
I haven't experimented but I suspect that the egt peak in the
high 4k range occurs when the needle/needle jet drops in influence
and we begin to go fully onto the main ... a transition point at
abt 3/4 throttle..
I think I have also noticed that some props tend to load/unload
at certain rpm ranges and effect egts...Herb
> >
>
>Herb,
>
>For flying this winter and spring, so far, have been mean weather wise.
>Most of the time my cold weather gear was used to blow snow. Spent most of
>the winter in my basement shop working on stuff to try this spring. Most of
>it is weight reduction stuff.
>
>I flew for the first time in March with the new filter cover (ram scoop)
>positioned at about sixty degrees up from horizontal. But I took no
>pressure measurements. I was not able influence EGT with the cover in this
>position. This got me to thinking about what to do to increase the positive
>pressure over the float bowl. I realized that it would be better to
>reference this pressure off something in the carburetor. I removed the
>carburetor and put a static pressure tap plus a positive dynamic pressure
>tap into the carburetor inlet. If the static tap does not do the job, I
>will move to the positive dynamic tap. Since this will produce much more
>pressure than needed, I will run the line to simple liquid bubble pressure
>regulator to obtain constant but ground adjustable pressure. By adding the
>filter air scoop to recover filter pressure loss, I have complicated things,
>and so I will have to run quite a few flight tests to record air filter
>pressure drops at various engine speeds and scoop positions. Then I will be
>able to get back to working with the mixture control.
>
>I remain very excited about the mixture control. The ability to adjust EGT
>in flight lets one dial in the same burn rate for a given engine rpm. One
>does not have sweat "should I have added fuel" thoughts. I have wondered
>how it would work on a Rotax 447, but for me it is too late for that. I am
>running this engine at much higher EGT than I did the Rotax.
>
>The Victor had the same problem as you described for below 5,000 rpm. At
>first I thought it was a leaky exhaust coupler. I modified the system and
>changed clamps. Still the same problem. Out of frustration, I started
>looking at the Bing. I noticed how the slide was polishing and concluded
>the throttle return spring was too weak, and the slide needle assembly was
>bouncing. Went to a heavier spring and things looked better. Then I
>decided to modify the carb needle. It was an eye opener. I was able get a
>flat EGT across the whole cruise rpm range. This proves to me that no
>engine manufacturer can tell you what needle jet combination is correct for
>every given application and it is unfair expectation. What they recommend
>may work on the test bench, but one must consider this is just a starting
>point.
>
>Rambling. The snow blower is off and the mower is ready to go.
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Winchester, IN
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Victoria Falls |
pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com wrote:
> Do you fly the trike from the back seat?>>
>
> Hi John,
> Perhaps more accurately `being flown`. I know my limitations. I flew a weightshift
when I was considering changing from gliding to ultralighting and although
I managed OK when I had time to think about it I decided that one day when
I dropped out of the bottom of the glide slope 10 ft above the ground, I
would push instead of pull by reflex and that was a complication i could do without.
> I have seen young instructors step out of weightshifts into 3 axis machines
with no trouble but I know I am not as switched on as I once was. The guy who
flew me round the Falls parked the weightshift and then started up a six seat
helicopter and flew a group back around the same course.
>
Just FWIW and I know this isn't Kolb related but may be of general interest.
I found that the transition to weight-shift from 3-axis took the longest time of
any other plane transition I made. It took about 20 hours to get comfortable
and about 50 hours for me to get completely automatic. I was safe in perfect
conditions after about 6 hours maybe a little more. That's actually a lot....
3-axis pilots also need special instruction in weight-shift from an instructor
that also flies 3-axis. The primacy of training can be a problem for a longer
time at the start than for a zero timer (yanking the bar in in sink, trying to
yaw with the pedals).
Besides the bass-ackwards controls, the inputs needed are different. We learn the
concept of control "pressures" in planes with discreet control surfaces, but
in weight-shift the inputs are more like counteracting the behavior of a pendulum
(in roll more than pitch really). I.e. try to steady a ball hanging by a
string in your hand, etc....
To make it even worse, the throttle is on the left _foot_.
But if I can do it anyone can.
Finally, trikes are easily flown from the back seat when "training bars" are fitted
to the control bar downtubes. This is how instructional trikes are setup.
do not archive
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238494#238494
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- Frank- No nose cone on the FS II?- What do you use for an instrument
panel?- Dana flies an Ultrastar without a nose cone or windshield.- Vis
ibility unlimited.
-
-------------------------
--------------- Bill Sullivan
-------------------------
--------------- Windsor Locks, Ct.
-------------------------
---------------- FS 447
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Bill, I built a small alu box that is between my knees, just forward
of the stick [copy of the one Bryan built for the firefly that won 1st
place at sun & fun last year ] it holds my ASI, ALT.Skidball&
compass . My EIS & switches are mounted in a 3 x 6 box that is mounted
just forward of the
throttle and is level with the top cage rail .it is outside the cage.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar2
HKS 75 hrs
On Apr 9, 2009, at 1:16 PM, william sullivan wrote:
> Frank- No nose cone on the FS II? What do you use for an
> instrument panel? Dana flies an Ultrastar without a nose cone or
> windshield. Visibility unlimited.
>
> Bill Sullivan
> Windsor Locks, Ct.
> FS 447
>
>
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- Frank-- Interesting arrangement.- What's your cruise speed?- Wind
in your face bother you, with no cone or shield?- FS II is a lot faster
than an Ultrastar.
-
-------------------------
------------------- Bill Sullivan
-------------------------
------------------- Windsor Locks, Ct
.
-------------------------
------------------- FS 447
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Frank-- Interesting arrangement.- What's your cruise speed?- Wind
in
your face bother you, with no cone or shield?- FS II is a lot faster
than an Ultrastar.
Not always. Ed Steuber's US was fast. Haven't heard from him since
he got a steady job.
BB
ed's ultra
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Subject: | Re: now an actual Kolb question |
John Hauck wrote:
>
> The Fire Fly video was made several years ago at Lakeland. It was a
> beautiful airplane built and painted by Bryan Milborn.
>
> I was also fortunate to be the demo pilot for this FF. I had forgotten how
> windy and rough the air was that year. The video clearly demonstrates I had
> my hands full, but the little FF performed like a champ that it is.
>
> A young lady bought the FF for her 92 year old adventurer grand father at
> the show. I never got to fly it again, nor did I ever see it again. I did
> hear that it was neglected, not flown, and considerable damage was done by
> children playing in it. It was a fantastic show plane and well as a flyer.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SFhiQRlGwA&feature=related
>
> john h
> mkIII
Wow.... the more I watch this vid, the more I want a FF.......
Tho that's currently plan A for the 2nd-plane thing anyway...
I'm 5'7" about 200lbs. How would I fit in the FF?
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238542#238542
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Bill I don't really have a cruise speed dialed in yet , depends on
what I"m doing. most of the
time ,slow flight,various stalls,turns about a point,landing off
airport, just learning about my
a/c and learning how to fly again after 35 years of being earthbound.
40 to 60 mph is the
range. My longest flight to date was about 100 miles one way I didn't
try to maintain a cruise speed 55 mph was about my average.
the wind is not a problem except for the handheld radio[ unless it's
cold ]. A lot of my time
is in a benson gyro so I learned to like the open air.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar 2
Brownville,TX
Do not archive
On Apr 9, 2009, at 2:32 PM, william sullivan wrote:
> Frank- Interesting arrangement. What's your cruise speed? Wind
> in your face bother you, with no cone or shield? FS II is a lot
> faster than an Ultrastar.
>
> Bill Sullivan
> Windsor Locks, Ct.
> FS 447
>
>
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Hi Ted,
While I dont have any personal experience with a 912, I do have a few
suggestions of a general nature.
Check the gearbox oil of your engine to see if every thing is okay. Perhaps
there is a bearing or gear that is causing your grief. Any metal in the gear
oil is not a good sign and warrants a tear down of the gearbox.
Check the runout of the propeller drive flange to see that it is running
true. Also check to see if there is any play or slop in the drive that
shouldn't be there. In general terms, some gearboxes have preloads and no
play while others require a small amount to operate properly. The Rotax
manuals may call out the details for your gearbox.
Have you checked the compression of the cylinders to see if they are okay?
Uneven compression maybe causing harmonics in your engine.
A fixed pitch wood prop would be less costly alternative to a composite if
you have to purchase one for testing.
Again these are a few general items I would look at if I was having your
troubles.
Good Luck and let us know when you have found the problem.
Best Regards
Carlos G
AKA
BaronVonEvil.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Cowan" <tc1917@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 3:35 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: vibrations
>
> For those that have not been privy to my harmonics on my 912, here is the
> following. The first thing I thought was wrong was the prop not being set
> "right" so I developed a laser that sits on the tip of my blades, one at a
> time, while I set them so they are near perfect. The blades themselves
> were all different weights, one a different length and two had what looked
> like cloth bumps showing. I sent them back and they came back better but
> still not the same. One has a different twist at the middle and now has a
> smaller tip. This is what WD thinks are good blades. I believe I have a
> set of reject blades all thrown together. My personal belief. I sent
> them back twice but they are still basically the same. I have been
> balancing large RC props for thirty years and have never seen blades like
> these. I super balanced them. Same problem. I super tuned the carbs --
> three times! Not the problem. I changed the angle of my titan exhaust
> outlets -- twice! I added some angle sections to my pipes so the exhaust
> would not hit the blades directly -- no joy. I have stainless tubes with
> holes on the ends of my pipes and they do reduce the noise a bunch but I
> still have the harmonics. I have taped the wing fabric top and bottom and
> checked all the fittings, pieces and mounts for loose or dangling fabric.
> I changed my gap seal three times. I started with no spacer, spent $450
> for a four incher, no help. That changed my balance where it was not
> desirable, dont know why. I took it off and put a two inch spacer on and
> that seems to work good except the harmonics are still there. I changed
> spark plug gaps and then spark plugs. nothing helps. This harmonic
> sound does not increase in beat, just intensity to the point where it
> actually beats on the back of my helmet. My anr removes most of it so I
> can tolerate this noise. It is noticeable from the ground as a rum rum
> rum sound like it out of tune. A friend has a new set of WD props like
> mine down in Florida and I will try them as soon as I get down there. If
> that makes it better then you can bet I will call WD with the 'proof' and
> see what they will do. Right now I just live with it. As far as changing
> type of prop -- well, how many of you have an extra grand or more to just
> 'try' another prop? I dont. I should not have to. I paid my money and
> should have a good prop. Like I said, I have not absolutely proven it is
> the prop yet but I will. By the way, one blade really shows the cloth
> weaving and I believe it is the culprit. Ever hear a digery do or however
> it is spelled? That hum hum is what I am talking about. Thought WD would
> replace it last time but they didnt. Not exactly the service I would
> expect from such a reputable dealer. Guess I dont have enough 'fame' to
> get good service from them. My life as it is. At least my rum rum is
> accompanied by zoom zoom and that makes it worth it. Ted Cowan, Alabama,
> Slingshot 912 UL. p.s. I still have a fifty buck reward for someone with
> a cure. (something we have not already thought of or done) Hauck is the
> first one for the blades being bad.
>
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Mixture control... |
At 09:15 AM 4/9/09 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
> Good info Jack...much appreciated...
>
> you may be the only engineer in the world working to improve 2
>strokes... :-)
>
> I haven't experimented but I suspect that the egt peak in the
>high 4k range occurs when the needle/needle jet drops in influence
>and we begin to go fully onto the main ... a transition point at
>abt 3/4 throttle..
>
> I think I have also noticed that some props tend to load/unload
>at certain rpm ranges and effect egts...
>
Herb,
If I had not been forced into using a two stroke, I would be flying a four
stroke. In the past I was influenced by what has been written about two
strokes. I have found that there is a lot of misinformation out there. A
lot of it came directly from the EAA by picking an expert that was not a
flyer but was a two cycle motorcycle man. When the two cycle engine is
placed on an airframe, one does not have to worry about quick throttle
response time. Most of the time the engine is run at constant speed with
short bursts of max output for take off and climb out.
As for 4k rpm EGT peaking, I do not believe it has anything to do with the
main jet. After mounting throttle slide position indicator, I found that
both the Rotax 447 and the Victor will develop max engine speed at around
40% of the throttle opening. This is just where the main jet starts to pick
up. Checking my flight notes I had recorded 5,000 rpm at 25% and 4,500 rpm
at 20% carb opening. In this range the Bing is under the influence of the
pilot(idle) jet, slide cutaway and the needle position. This gives a couple
of things that can be done to adjust the carburetor. One cannot adjust the
cutaway but you can lean and richen the mixture about 50 degrees EGT with
the idle mixture control. The other and I consider the best choice was to
modify the needle between the 20% to 40% region. This has worked out very
well. All of this indicates the carb size is much too large, but one just use
what is available and fit or refit the needle to your specific application.
My disappointment is that I had to figure this out. But it has made me much
more excited about flying a two stroke engine. It has moved me from a
piston port to reed valve engine. I have discovered I can run this engine
at higher EGT than the Rotax 447. The reason for this is advanced
technology and design. With ceramic cylinder coating lets you run a tighter
fitting piston due to both being made of aluminum alloys with a common
temperature expansion ratio. Liquid cooling is a pain, but it helps get more
heat away from the cylinder as apposed to a steel liner in aluminum
interfacing directly with air. Running a tuned exhaust helps with engine
breathing and the reduction of unburnt fuel in the exhaust. This type of
engine design is supposed to be less prone to cold seizure. Before I added
the fuel mixture control, I had problems of the engine quitting on final
after a long low throttle decent. Idle jet adjustments did not seem to
help. After adding the mixture control, I can fly the FireFly down at
cruise speed, close the throttle and land without the engine quitting. This
technique keeps the carburetor throat warmer and less prone to icing.
Best of all, the Victor is running at half the fuel flow rate of my Rotax
447. Could I have gotten to this point with the Rotax 447? I don't know.
The next question is why doesn't Bing added this mechanism in or to the
carburetor and make it a true aircraft carburetor?
Not flying enough - Rambling #2
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
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At 03:32 PM 4/9/2009, william sullivan wrote:
> ...Wind in your face bother you, with no cone or shield? FS II is a
> lot faster than an Ultrastar.
In the UltraStar, I wouldn't say the wind _bothers_ me, per se, but it's
fatiguing after awhile. I always fly with some kind of glasses, though,
either sunglasses or clear safety glasses... not only do my eyes tear too
much otherwise, not to mention that a bug'd be painful at 50mph!.
I do have a clear face shield for my helmet, but I was careless with it and
it got scratched... I've since polished it out but I haven't flown again
since then (but Spring's here, yee hah!)
-Dana
--
Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine.
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We have a couple MK III's here at my field, and both of us have had to do a mod
to reduce the noise inside the cockpit. Built by the plans, there is an open
space from the prop that makes the cockpit act like a resonant bell, the noise
was HUGE ! My " Neighbor " put a piece of clear lexan behind the seats, where
a headrest would be if he had one. This simple, one piece of flat lexan made
a huge difference in making his cockpit noise tolerable. His noise reduction
worked so well, that I went a lot of steps further and enclosed the entire
cabin of my plane, above and rear, and put sound dampening in the lower fabric
in the cage behind the seats where it faces the prop. I also have sound dampening
on the rear lexan windows. In other words, I put sound dampening in any
part of my cage on my plane that " Sees " or faces towards the the prop at anything
less than a 90 degree angle. John Haucks MK III is pretty much like this,
with all rear areas enclosed. This made a huge reduction in the noise level.
I use ANR headsets, but don't need any earplugs. I wonder if you have a
typical loud hum hum that would be hardly noticeable with some noise prevention
measures. Its hard to tell how severe this is, or if its typical without hearing
it first hand and comparing it to other Kolbs with a similar setup.
My warp drive prop is perfect. Did you check the tracking on the tips of your
prop, all three blades should be within 1/16 of an inch or so. My Rotax 912-S
/ prop is as smooth as silk, smoother than any other piston engine I have flown
behind. I can barely feel it running if I place my hand on the cage tubing.
I have had several occasions to deal with Warp Drive, and they have always
been more than fair, and gone the extra mile as far as I am concerned. There
are lots of warp drive props on experimental airplanes, it is very rare to hear
anything bad about them. It is possible to get a combination of equipment that
will not work well together, but there are such a huge number of Warp Drive
/ 912-S combos flying, that I don't believe this should be problematic combo.
Maybe time to look more at the airframe ??
P.S. Going from a 4 inch spacer to the two inch spacer you have now is a such
very small change of CG, I don't see how this could possibly have any meaningful
impact on the flying qualities of the airplane. You must have miscalculated
something or not have a full understanding of effect this has on CG. Anyways,
the 4 inch spacer on the prop is far better than a two inch spacer, for a
number of reasons. I would most definitely use the 4 inch spacer... Just off
the top of my head, I think two extra inches on the prop spacer would equal
less than one pound of weight added to the nose IF you wanted to keep the same
CG.. Thats a rough guess off the top of my head, it would be easy to calculate
given your WB information and prop weight. In other words, its negligible
and I would not even bother with such a small change. The longer spacer is much
better for a pusher setup like found on our Kolbs.
Gook luck chasing this down, like Lucien said, we did sign up for Experimental
aviation, and it can make you want to beat your head against a wall sometimes.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238553#238553
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Subject: | Re: now an actual Kolb question |
that's currently plan A for the 2nd-plane thing anyway...
>
> I'm 5'7" about 200lbs. How would I fit in the FF?
>
> LS
>
> --------
> LS
No problem fitting in a FF.
We've had much larger folks than that fly them. Brian Blackwood, former
co-owner of TNK, probably went close to 250. He flew the pants off the
factory FF.
john h
mkIII
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JetPilot wrote:
> We have a couple MK III's here at my field, and both of us have had to do a mod
to reduce the noise inside the cockpit. Built by the plans, there is an open
space from the prop that makes the cockpit act like a resonant bell, the noise
was HUGE ! My " Neighbor " put a piece of clear lexan behind the seats,
where a headrest would be if he had one. This simple, one piece of flat lexan
made a huge difference in making his cockpit noise tolerable. His noise reduction
worked so well, that I went a lot of steps further and enclosed the entire
cabin of my plane, above and rear, and put sound dampening in the lower fabric
in the cage behind the seats where it faces the prop. I also have sound dampening
on the rear lexan windows. In other words, I put sound dampening in any
part of my cage on my plane that " Sees " or faces towards the the prop at
anything less than a 90 degree angle. John Haucks MK III is pretty much like
this, with all rear areas enclosed. This made a huge reduction in the noise level.
I use ANR headsets, but don't need any earplugs. I wonder if you have
a typical loud hum hum that would be hardly noticeable with some noise prevention
measures. Its hard to tell how severe this is, or if its typical without
hearing it first hand and comparing it to other Kolbs with a similar setup.
>
> My warp drive prop is perfect. Did you check the tracking on the tips of your
prop, all three blades should be within 1/16 of an inch or so. My Rotax 912-S
/ prop is as smooth as silk, smoother than any other piston engine I have flown
behind. I can barely feel it running if I place my hand on the cage tubing.
I have had several occasions to deal with Warp Drive, and they have always
been more than fair, and gone the extra mile as far as I am concerned. There
are lots of warp drive props on experimental airplanes, it is very rare to hear
anything bad about them. It is possible to get a combination of equipment
that will not work well together, but there are such a huge number of Warp Drive
/ 912-S combos flying, that I don't believe this should be problematic combo.
Maybe time to look more at the airframe ??
>
> P.S. Going from a 4 inch spacer to the two inch spacer you have now is a such
very small change of CG, I don't see how this could possibly have any meaningful
impact on the flying qualities of the airplane. You must have miscalculated
something or not have a full understanding of effect this has on CG. Anyways,
the 4 inch spacer on the prop is far better than a two inch spacer, for
a number of reasons. I would most definitely use the 4 inch spacer... Just
off the top of my head, I think two extra inches on the prop spacer would equal
less than one pound of weight added to the nose IF you wanted to keep the same
CG.. Thats a rough guess off the top of my head, it would be easy to calculate
given your WB information and prop weight. In other words, its negligible
and I would not even bother with such a small change. The longer spacer is
much better for a pusher setup like found on our Kolbs.
>
> Gook luck chasing this down, like Lucien said, we did sign up for Experimental
aviation, and it can make you want to beat your head against a wall sometimes.
>
>
>
> Mike
For what it's worth, according to Daryl, the tracking need only be within about
5/16" max. 1/4" is typical, my current one and the one I had on my FS II were
about 1/4" off (the one on my FS II was smooth as glass).
I'd personally try to keep the spacer as short as possible. A long spacer adds
a signficant amount of arm to the Coriolis forces the prop imposes on the prop
shaft. Every little bit helps to preserve our gearboxes even tho they're still
strong as stink.....
My FSII was unbelievably loud in the cockpit and sure enough it was open at the
rear. Wish I'd had my telex ANR headset back when I had that plane......
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238562#238562
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Subject: | Re: 912 ULS starter |
You can buy one from a Snap-on tool dealer you just lay the meter on the
wire if the wire is the right size it will snap on to it and you can als
o
get one to test your charging system from snap-on I have both of these
meters in my Tool box that I have been using for years and they are a gre
at rig
to have
Ellery in Maine
In a message dated 4/9/2009 12:10:42 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
by0ung@brigham.net writes:
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "b young" <by0ung@brigham.net>
Using clamp on ammeter I got ~13 amps current during cranking our 912UL
at
about 45-50F OAT.
>>>>>>>>>>>>..
I have never seen a clamp on dc amp meter.
Boyd
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edir=http:%2F
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My FSII was unbelievably loud in the cockpit and sure enough it was
open at the rear. Wish I'd had my telex ANR headset back when I had that
plane......
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
For what its worth, on my trip to Texas with Arty, I used the full
enclosure on my Firestar. That is the full windshield and the fabric
with the convertible type window in it. It cut my maximum speed to 60
MPH. Without it and using the full windshield I gained 7 MPH. It might
be quieter, but I am not willing to take the cut in top speed.
Larry C
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Subject: | Re: now an actual Kolb question |
Lucien
I am 6'2" and 200 lbs...The Firefly is just fine...Very comfortable
on trips of 60 to 100 miles...Herb
Wish I could fly it like John does!! :-)
At 03:11 PM 4/9/2009, you wrote:
>
>
>John Hauck wrote:
> >
> > The Fire Fly video was made several years ago at Lakeland. It was a
> > beautiful airplane built and painted by Bryan Milborn.
> >
> > I was also fortunate to be the demo pilot for this FF. I had
> forgotten how
> > windy and rough the air was that year. The video clearly
> demonstrates I had
> > my hands full, but the little FF performed like a champ that it is.
> >
> > A young lady bought the FF for her 92 year old adventurer grand father at
> > the show. I never got to fly it again, nor did I ever see it
> again. I did
> > hear that it was neglected, not flown, and considerable damage was done by
> > children playing in it. It was a fantastic show plane and well as a flyer.
> >
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SFhiQRlGwA&feature=related
> >
> > john h
> > mkIII
>
>
>Wow.... the more I watch this vid, the more I want a FF.......
>Tho that's currently plan A for the 2nd-plane thing anyway...
>
>I'm 5'7" about 200lbs. How would I fit in the FF?
>
>LS
>
>--------
>LS
>Titan II SS
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238542#238542
>
>
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Subject: | Re: now an actual Kolb question |
> I am 6'2" and 200 lbs...The Firefly is just fine...Very comfortable
> on trips of 60 to 100 miles...Herb
>
>
> Wish I could fly it like John does!! :-)
Are you sure?
Didn't look like I was doing so well, yanking and banking to get it back on
the ground in the video clip at Lakeland. ;-)
john h
mkIII
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Subject: | Re: now an actual Kolb question |
You got her on the ground in flying condition on a tough day...I
would bet that not much else was flying from the ul field...Herb
At 09:50 PM 4/9/2009, you wrote:
>
>
> > I am 6'2" and 200 lbs...The Firefly is just fine...Very comfortable
>>on trips of 60 to 100 miles...Herb
>>
>>
>> Wish I could fly it like John does!! :-)
>
>
>Are you sure?
>
>Didn't look like I was doing so well, yanking and banking to get it
>back on the ground in the video clip at Lakeland. ;-)
>
>john h
>mkIII
>
>_-
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Subject: | Re: now an actual Kolb question |
> You got her on the ground in flying condition on a tough day...I
> would bet that not much else was flying from the ul field...Herb
We had a good reputation, Kolb Aircraft, to fly when everybody else at OSH
and S&F were on the ground. We felt this was a true demonstration of the
ability of the Kolb line of airplanes. This was true 25 years ago when I
was drooling on the ground watching a teenager, by the name of Dennis
Souder, put the hot, new Kolb Ultrastar through its paces at the tiny grass
strip at S&F March 1984. It was the best performer there. Nothing could
touch it. My kit was waiting on me when I returned home to Alabama. Three
months later I was drooling on my own US. ;-)
john h
mkIII
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