Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:35 AM - Re: Re: One Thing At A Time (Tony Oldman)
2. 01:33 AM - Re: One Thing At A Time (David Lucas)
3. 04:08 AM - Driving to Sun-N-Fun (Fredrick Kerfoot)
4. 05:39 AM - Re: Re: One Thing At A Time (robert bean)
5. 05:59 AM - Re: One Thing At A Time (lucien)
6. 06:23 AM - Re: One thing at a time (william sullivan)
7. 06:32 AM - Re: Kolb List Re: q (pj.ladd)
8. 06:34 AM - Re: Re: One Thing At A Time (John Hauck)
9. 06:35 AM - Re: Kolb List Re: q (pj.ladd)
10. 06:44 AM - Re: Re: Wandering Wench is on her way (russ kinne)
11. 06:47 AM - Re: Re: One thing at a time (John Hauck)
12. 06:52 AM - Re: Re: New M3X Flies ! (pj.ladd)
13. 07:03 AM - Re: Re: New M3X Flies ! (Herb)
14. 07:03 AM - Re: Re: New M3X Flies ! (Herb)
15. 07:08 AM - Kolb List Re: q (ces308)
16. 07:09 AM - Re: Re: New M3X Flies ! (John Hauck)
17. 07:13 AM - Re: One Thing At A Time (lucien)
18. 07:13 AM - Re: Re: One Thing At A Time (K I)
19. 07:17 AM - Re: One thing at a time (william sullivan)
20. 07:21 AM - Re: Re: One Thing At A Time (John Hauck)
21. 07:21 AM - Re: Re: One Thing At A Time (K I)
22. 07:26 AM - Re: Re: One Thing At A Time (John Hauck)
23. 07:35 AM - Re: One Thing At A Time (lucien)
24. 07:42 AM - Re: One Thing At A Time (lucien)
25. 07:49 AM - Re: Re: One Thing At A Time (John Hauck)
26. 08:40 AM - Re: One Thing At A Time (lucien)
27. 08:43 AM - Re: Re: One Thing At A Time (Mike Welch)
28. 09:58 AM - Re: One Thing At A Time (JetPilot)
29. 11:19 AM - Re: Re: New M3X Flies ! (pj.ladd)
30. 12:02 PM - Re: Re: New M3X Flies ! (pj.ladd)
31. 12:02 PM - Re: Kolb List Re: q (pj.ladd)
32. 12:04 PM - Re: Re: One Thing At A Time (John Hauck)
33. 12:05 PM - Re: Re: New M3X Flies ! (pj.ladd)
34. 12:10 PM - Re: Kolb List Re: q (John Hauck)
35. 12:35 PM - Make One Change At A Time, Then Test Fly (John Hauck)
36. 12:35 PM - Re: Re: New M3X Flies ! (pj.ladd)
37. 12:38 PM - Re: Kolb List Re: q (pj.ladd)
38. 01:17 PM - traveling (william sullivan)
39. 01:47 PM - Re: Kolb List Re: q (John Hauck)
40. 01:54 PM - Re: traveling (John Hauck)
41. 02:53 PM - Re: One Thing At A Time (lucien)
42. 03:41 PM - Re: Re: One Thing At A Time ()
43. 05:17 PM - Re: One Thing At A Time (JetPilot)
44. 05:26 PM - Fw: monofloat (chris davis)
45. 05:41 PM - Fw: momofloat (chris davis)
46. 06:20 PM - Re: Re: One Thing At A Time (John Hauck)
47. 06:32 PM - Kolb crash yesterday (Dana Hague)
48. 07:20 PM - Re: CHT Probe-Attachment/Breakage (WhiskeyVictor36@aol.com)
49. 07:21 PM - Re: Re: New M3X Flies ! (possums)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
While I can not give any advise on 912 engines I believe I can on 503s. Over
oiling the air filter will reduce RPM.
I wash the filters in warm soapy water or KNL cleaning solution and let dry
in the sun. I do not put any oil on them. When its time to change the plugs
its also time to clean the air filters. .Over oiled filters will leave tell
tail splotchs of oil on the tail plane and shortly after that you may notice
a reluctance to reach full RPM on take off. Removal of the filters at this
stage and it feels like you have been turbo charged.
Regards
Tony
Downunder
MK111c
503
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucien" <lstavenhagen@hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 8:31 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: One Thing At A Time
>
>
> John Hauck wrote:
>> Something I temporarily forgot. When test making changes and test
>> flying,
>> make one change at a time, then go fly to see what the results are. I
>> didn't do that yesterday.
>>
>> My new Warp Drive Blades had a little edge of black paint left when the
>> masking tape was pulled off the nickle leading edges. I did my initial
>> pitch adjustments with this tiny ridge of paint. My rpm at WOT straight
>> and
>> level indicated I was pitched a little bit light, 5,600 rpm.
>>
>> I did three things to my airplane before I test flew it again:
>>
>> 1-Sanded and feathered the edge even with the trailing edge of the nickle
>> leading edge.
>>
>> 2-Cleaned and reoiled the K&N air filters.
>>
>> 3-Adjusted the covers on my conical K&N filters to stand off about an
>> inch
>> rather than the original stock 1/2 inch.
>>
>> Was rather surprised on takeoff, my climb rpm was only 5200 rather than
>> 5400. Also surprised when my max rpm had dropped to 5,500 rpm WOT
>> straight
>> and level flight.
>>
>> Got an idea cleaning up the ridge of paint on the blades may have
>> increased
>> their bite.
>>
>> Don't know if the air filter cleaning/reoiling or the change in air
>> filter
>> cover standoff pulled power off the engine. Hope that is not the case.
>>
>> On the other hand, it is hard to believe that tiny ridge of paint would
>> have
>> that much effect on its performance, but I think it did.
>>
>> john h
>> mkIII - Getting ready for Lakeland and Monument Valley.
>
>
> I've added and taken off leading edge tape and foil on quit a few props
> over the years and never noticed any change in the performance. Those were
> IVOs, wood props and powerfins mostly tho. Could make a difference on the
> WD, I'm only on my second one.
>
> Oiling K&N's tho, has given me positively scary results ;). I never
> developed the trick to what's the right amount of oil, so I oil extremely
> lightly or not at all to avoid the plugged filter syndrome at that worst
> possible time.
>
> Dennis Kirby flew out to KSAF this am and we finally shook hands and
> talked planes, props and flying for a bit. The NM posse is in formation.
> Dennis is going to invite the Belin trikers to come along too which would
> be positively neat. I'm going to call the owner of the other Titan on our
> field this week and see if he wants to go too.
> Former partner in my titan may go in his RV-6A, tho he'll be a lone wolf
> at his speeds....
>
> Still waiting on my vacation grant from work, I'm guardedly optimistic
> that I'll get it but then again in this economy I may not be in a good
> position to fight back if I get turned down.
> I'm planning to go meanwhile.
>
> The likely gathering spots for the NM posse are either Double Eagle
> airport or Gallup at this point.
>
> LS
>
> --------
> LS
> Titan II SS
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240150#240150
>
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
Can remember, years ago, where someone dimpled the camber face of his prop blade
much like a golf ball has dimples in it and got a slight increase in performance
together with about 100 RPM increase at a given power setting. Just dug out
the notes I had on it (sorry no photo's);
The dimples were centered on the face of the propeller at the peak of the
camber of the prop blade, 3 rows .5 inches apart. The dimples were
staggered on 3/4 inch center. Diameter and depth of dimple did not not seem too
critical. He used a diameter of approximately .200 by .100 deep.
Also; Wicks Aircraft Supply (1-800-221-9425) Part number 259-200 for homebuilt
vortelator kit for the prop is one option that allows you to try similar technology
without drilling holes in your wood propeller. This modification benefits
props that are less than ideally efficient.
This info is a bit old, so part No's etc might have changed.
David.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240241#240241
Message 3
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Subject: | Driving to Sun-N-Fun |
If you are planning to drive to the Sun-N-Fun best pack a lunch. The manag
ement of the of the Sun-N-Fun in their never-ending=2C undying and limitles
s greed have decided to once again charge for parking. ($5.00 per vehicle p
er day or $20.00 for the week) In years past this fleecing of the flock ha
s resulted in traffic delays of well over a hour. The individual at the re
gistration desk assured me "this time it would be different" because there
would be three people at the gate grabbing the cash. (Did I mention it is C
ASH only?) Yeah I've seen that tried before too. Oh well=2C perhaps the e
ver diminishing attendance will help to mitigate the delays. Geez=2C the n
ext thing you know they will be charging landing and tie down fees. Those
old boys sure know how to beat a dying horse.
Fred K p.s. I don't think there will be any need for me to buy a we
ek pass.
_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail=AE: Now available on your iPhone or BlackBerry
http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_
Mobile2_042009
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
I do have a K&N filter on my solex but consider it to be mostly a bug
screen too.
Probably needs a debugging this spring.
K&N advertises aftermarket intake filter kits in all the car mags.
predicting X amount of increased hp
which is a lot of BS. In most cases the factory big box type filter
has been engineered to get as good as
you will get. Any perceived benefit from the K&N is just that....
perceived, like how you swear your
engine now runs smoother after that oil change. -not.
BB
On 20, Apr 2009, at 3:34 AM, Tony Oldman wrote:
>
> While I can not give any advise on 912 engines I believe I can on
> 503s. Over oiling the air filter will reduce RPM.
> I wash the filters in warm soapy water or KNL cleaning solution and
> let dry in the sun. I do not put any oil on them. When its time to
> change the plugs its also time to clean the air filters. .Over
> oiled filters will leave tell tail splotchs of oil on the tail
> plane and shortly after that you may notice a reluctance to reach
> full RPM on take off. Removal of the filters at this stage and it
> feels like you have been turbo charged.
>
> Regards
> Tony
> Downunder
> MK111c
> 503
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "lucien" <lstavenhagen@hotmail.com>
> To: <kolb-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 8:31 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: One Thing At A Time
>
>
>>
>>
>> John Hauck wrote:
>>> Something I temporarily forgot. When test making changes and
>>> test flying,
>>> make one change at a time, then go fly to see what the results
>>> are. I
>>> didn't do that yesterday.
>>>
>>> My new Warp Drive Blades had a little edge of black paint left
>>> when the
>>> masking tape was pulled off the nickle leading edges. I did my
>>> initial
>>> pitch adjustments with this tiny ridge of paint. My rpm at WOT
>>> straight and
>>> level indicated I was pitched a little bit light, 5,600 rpm.
>>>
>>> I did three things to my airplane before I test flew it again:
>>>
>>> 1-Sanded and feathered the edge even with the trailing edge of
>>> the nickle
>>> leading edge.
>>>
>>> 2-Cleaned and reoiled the K&N air filters.
>>>
>>> 3-Adjusted the covers on my conical K&N filters to stand off
>>> about an inch
>>> rather than the original stock 1/2 inch.
>>>
>>> Was rather surprised on takeoff, my climb rpm was only 5200
>>> rather than
>>> 5400. Also surprised when my max rpm had dropped to 5,500 rpm
>>> WOT straight
>>> and level flight.
>>>
>>> Got an idea cleaning up the ridge of paint on the blades may have
>>> increased
>>> their bite.
>>>
>>> Don't know if the air filter cleaning/reoiling or the change in
>>> air filter
>>> cover standoff pulled power off the engine. Hope that is not the
>>> case.
>>>
>>> On the other hand, it is hard to believe that tiny ridge of paint
>>> would have
>>> that much effect on its performance, but I think it did.
>>>
>>> john h
>>> mkIII - Getting ready for Lakeland and Monument Valley.
>>
>>
>> I've added and taken off leading edge tape and foil on quit a few
>> props over the years and never noticed any change in the
>> performance. Those were IVOs, wood props and powerfins mostly tho.
>> Could make a difference on the WD, I'm only on my second one.
>>
>> Oiling K&N's tho, has given me positively scary results ;). I
>> never developed the trick to what's the right amount of oil, so I
>> oil extremely lightly or not at all to avoid the plugged filter
>> syndrome at that worst possible time.
>>
>> Dennis Kirby flew out to KSAF this am and we finally shook hands
>> and talked planes, props and flying for a bit. The NM posse is in
>> formation. Dennis is going to invite the Belin trikers to come
>> along too which would be positively neat. I'm going to call the
>> owner of the other Titan on our field this week and see if he
>> wants to go too.
>> Former partner in my titan may go in his RV-6A, tho he'll be a
>> lone wolf at his speeds....
>>
>> Still waiting on my vacation grant from work, I'm guardedly
>> optimistic that I'll get it but then again in this economy I may
>> not be in a good position to fight back if I get turned down.
>> I'm planning to go meanwhile.
>>
>> The likely gathering spots for the NM posse are either Double
>> Eagle airport or Gallup at this point.
>>
>> LS
>>
>> --------
>> LS
>> Titan II SS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240150#240150
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
slyck(at)frontiernet.net wrote:
> I do have a K&N filter on my solex but consider it to be mostly a bug
> screen too.
> Probably needs a debugging this spring.
> K&N advertises aftermarket intake filter kits in all the car mags.
> predicting X amount of increased hp
> which is a lot of BS. In most cases the factory big box type filter
> has been engineered to get as good as
> you will get. Any perceived benefit from the K&N is just that....
> perceived, like how you swear your
> engine now runs smoother after that oil change. -not.
> BB
>
Don't want to get into a K&N bash fest, but truth is the unoiled filter is perfectly
adequate for our needs as we generally don't run our motors on the ground
for long periods of time. Mostly we're up in the clean air.
Oiling is a black art the first few times you do it and making a mistake those
first couple of times till you get the hang of it can be very expensive and possibly
painful.
I practically never oil mine for that reason as I'd rather be assured the fan keeps
turning after cleaning and installation. Without the oil they still filter
quite well, certainly well enough for our needs.
First annual I did on my plane was with an AnP over at Los Alamos, NM. Anyone who's
flown in there knows your only choice for departure involves a 500' or deeper
cliff right off the east end of the runway into a giant canyon (with who-knows-what
buried down there from activities of LANL). No way I was going to blast
off from there with freshly oiled filters so we left em dry (and they stayed
that way till I replaced them).....
Finally, do use the K&N solvent for cleaning, tho. A regular solvent will eventually
damage the element....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240255#240255
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Subject: | Re: One thing at a time |
- Lucien- Please correct me if I'm wrong.- A friend with extensive 2-st
roke knowledge told me that oiling the K&N filter is generally unnecessary
because a 2-stroke at idle will "chuff" back into the filter, leaving oil.
-This would not apply to 2-strokes with a reed valve. -If run at low sp
eeds for a while it will become over oiled.- If oiled as per spec, and th
en run at low speed, it can cause noticable loss of power.- He said what
you said- for our usage, clean and don't oil.--Would you agree with thi
s?
-
-------------------------
--------------------- Bill Sulliv
an
-------------------------
--------------------- Windsor Loc
ks, Ct.
-------------------------
--------------------- FS 447
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Kolb List Re: q |
get a ride in the EAA's B-17.I>>
I saw a B17 and a Liberator during a tour they did of Florida some years
ago. One of the guys doing the tour in the B17 had done a few ops. and as I
was able to identify a `G` and knew they had been basesd in Framlingham in
the UK he recognised a fellow flyer and he was obviously relieved to be able
to talk to someone who had at least an inkling what it was all about.
A visitor walking through the fuselage stopped and tapped the alloy skin and
said `Is that all you had to keep the bullets out?` The crewmans eyes
rolled in his head and his eyebrows crawled up his forehead but very
professionally he said "Thats just to keep the weather out,Sir" Then he
caught my eye and we both creased up.
Pat
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
Lucien/Gang:
My experience and opinions only.
I don't know where you have been flying, but there isn't any clean air, even
if it looks clean.
I would not consider operating my engine without the K&N filter oiled.
> Don't want to get into a K&N bash fest, but truth is the unoiled filter
is perfectly adequate for our needs as we generally don't run our motors on
the ground for long periods of time. Mostly we're up in the clean air.
You just think "we're up in the clean air." Short local flights will
probably not give you a real indication of how much dirt that little gold
plated engine is injesting, but do an 8 hour flight day and you will be
amazed at the amount of crude that collects on the leading edges of
everything. What you don't see when flying is what can hurt you.
> Oiling is a black art the first few times you do it and making a mistake
those first couple of times till you get the hang of it can be very
expensive and possibly painful.
I'm not an expert at cleaning and oiling K&N air filters, so I usually over
oil. I also clean them with gasoline. I think it does a better job, is
quicker, and a lot less expensive. I have never seen gasoline damage
cotton. I have never had an engine problem because of a K&N oil filter that
was over oiled.
> I practically never oil mine for that reason as I'd rather be assured the
> fan keeps turning after cleaning and installation. Without the oil they
> still filter quite well, certainly well enough for our needs.
I wouldn't buy an engine if I new it had been operated without an adequate
air filter.
Again, I am not going to gamble on the life of my engine by not oiling the
filter. In addition to the airplane, I also use oiled cotton and oiled foam
rubber air filter elements on my ATV and dirt bike. Without the "correct"
oil, they probably would not last all day.
There is a difference between the oil used for cotton and foam elements.
Best not get them mixed up. Seems the oil for foam elements is quite sticky
and thicker than oil used for cotton.
> Finally, do use the K&N solvent for cleaning, tho. A regular solvent will
> eventually damage the element....
Again, my own experience and opinions only.
john h
mkIII
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Subject: | Re: Kolb List Re: q |
(I think a "D" version). If I remember, it was $3,200 an hour for the
P-51. Check their web site. I couldn't afford a flight in any of
them,>>
Hi Bill,
allowing for general price increase that would jibe OK with my =A31500.
Yes it was a "D".
No,I couldn`t afford it either but it seems cheap now.
Pat
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Subject: | Re: Wandering Wench is on her way |
Have fun, all the best, fair winds
Russ
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Subject: | Re: One thing at a time |
Bill S:
Far as I know, most two and four stroke engines experience what I call
"fuel vapor stand off". That is a little fuel vapor cloud that sits a
couple inches off the mouth of the carb. I discovered this when I was a
kid experimenting (playing) with the B&S engine on my Dads lawn mower.
My 1935 Ford pickup did the same thing. My 447 and my 912 engines do it
too. That is where a lot of excess oil is coming from on two strokes
that are configured with the air filters/carbs positioned perpendicular
to the air stream. Wind blows that little cloud of fuel vapor out of
the filter.
My 912 K&N filters are red after oiling, but will be blue the next time
I pull them for cleaning and oiling. Why, lots of blue dye in 100LL.
How does the air filter get satuarated with this dye when there is
constant vacuum pulling air from outside to inside?
If you all think you do not need to oil your K&N filters, that is your
business. Personally, I think K&N engineers know a lot more about their
filters than the average man on the street.
Most all the sand rails, dune buggies, and atv's I ran into in the dunes
of California, Arizona, and Nevada, use oiled cotton air filter
elements, either K&N or some of the newer names or air filter producers.
Doubt you'll see any of those filters run dry.
john h
mkIII
Lucien- Please correct me if I'm wrong. A friend with
extensive 2-stroke knowledge told me that oiling the K&N filter is
generally unnecessary because a 2-stroke at idle will "chuff" back into
the filter, leaving oil. This would not apply to 2-strokes with a reed
valve. If run at low speeds for a while it will become over oiled. If
oiled as per spec, and then run at low speed, it can cause noticable
loss of power. He said what you said- for our usage, clean and don't
oil. Would you agree with this?
Bill Sullivan
Windsor Locks,
Ct.
FS 447
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
Sensenich,wood,W58djl44---ae9623..>>
Hi Chris,
what does that mean in feet and inches or even centimetres?
My reprt of 10knot climb at 50mph should have been 1000ft per min.
Pat
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
Pat
Not Chris...but in front of the puter now...
58 inches in dia... 44 inch pitch... Sensenich makes super
props... been doing it for a long time...not sure about the ae9623... Herb
At 08:52 AM 4/20/2009, you wrote:
>
>Sensenich,wood,W58djl44---ae9623..>>
>
>Hi Chris,
>what does that mean in feet and inches or even centimetres?
>
>My reprt of 10knot climb at 50mph should have been 1000ft per min.
>
>Pat
>
>
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>04/19/09 20:04:00
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Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
What are you swinging Pat? Herb
At 08:52 AM 4/20/2009, you wrote:
>
>Sensenich,wood,W58djl44---ae9623..>>
>
>Hi Chris,
>what does that mean in feet and inches or even centimetres?
>
>My reprt of 10knot climb at 50mph should have been 1000ft per min.
>
>Pat
>
>
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>04/19/09 20:04:00
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Subject: | Re: Kolb List Re: q |
A "G" model 17 has the chin turret .When I took the ride in it ,all I could think
of is the fact that they were in these airplanes for 8-10 hrs a time ,at deafening
levels of sound and bullets flying through it...it was an incredibly awe
inspiring experience .If you can ever get the chance...TAKE IT !
chris ambrose
m3x-jab
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240277#240277
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Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
> My reprt of 10knot climb at 50mph should have been 1000ft per min.
>
> Pat
Thought you all might do it different over there.
john h
mkIII
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
John Hauck wrote:
>
> You just think "we're up in the clean air." Short local flights will
> probably not give you a real indication of how much dirt that little gold
> plated engine is injesting, but do an 8 hour flight day and you will be
> amazed at the amount of crude that collects on the leading edges of
> everything. What you don't see when flying is what can hurt you.
>
It's not where you go, it's how long you're up.
The acid test is pulling the filter after a period of running time and seeing if
anything has collected on the inside. I.e. if you drag a finger along the inner
part of the filter and it leaves a little road in some dust, then you have
a leak or the element is letting dirt in.
I've run the K&N's for about a decade and many 100's of hours without oiling and
have never seen anything other than a completely clean filter on the inside.
Damage to the element due to using the wrong solvent (i.e. any kind of kerosene)
will give you telltale little bits of white stuff on the inside of the filter.
>
> I'm not an expert at cleaning and oiling K&N air filters, so I usually over
> oil. I also clean them with gasoline. I think it does a better job, is
> quicker, and a lot less expensive. I have never seen gasoline damage
> cotton. I have never had an engine problem because of a K&N oil filter that
> was over oiled.
>
I have had trouble and in the most notable case was extremely lucky that the plane
was a slow one and I had plenty of runway left.
Rich running and low power is another common result I've had before I finally decided
not to use the oil anymore.
Never again for me.
>
> Again, I am not going to gamble on the life of my engine by not oiling the
> filter. In addition to the airplane, I also use oiled cotton and oiled foam
> rubber air filter elements on my ATV and dirt bike. Without the "correct"
> oil, they probably would not last all day.
>
> There is a difference between the oil used for cotton and foam elements.
> Best not get them mixed up. Seems the oil for foam elements is quite sticky
> and thicker than oil used for cotton.
>
The hazard from over oiling is far, far greater than not oiling the filter and
being assured of good airflow and correct mixture. Again, it has not been my experience
that the K&N doesn't work adequately without oiling but it definitely
has been my experience that an over oiled filter is extremely dangerous and
the greater of two evils.
How well the filter is functioning is easy to verify by pulling it on a regular
basis and checking the inside, and I've never observed a problem anywhere I've
flown any of my engines.
My experience and opinions only as well,
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240279#240279
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
Regarding filtering =93clean air=94=3B I agree with most everything John ha
s posted. Where I differ from John is=3B I don=92t like to use gasoline for
anything except the fuel tank
I bought my diesel truck new in =9396. When it was time to change the air c
leaner=2C I replaced it with a K&N. The filter has been used for over 120K
miles=2C (12 years) and is in great condition.
Yes=2C it can be costly to clean and oil filters. All of my vehicles and tr
actor now have K&N filters. I have used paint thinner as a cleaning solvent
for the filters. This breaks down the oil and releases the gathered gunk.
It does not appear to harm the filter fibers at all. Use a regular pump bot
tle you can buy at Wal-Mart to apply the thinner. Then wash the filter in a
dish soap/warm water solution. Allow it to dry before applying the oil. I
buy the genuine K&N oil from an online auto parts distributor in the 1 gall
on container. If you warm the oil before applying it=2C it will move throug
h the pump easier and will permeate the filter.
Just an opinion of a reader of the list.
I am still looking for MY KOLB.
Kurt
Sandy=2C Utah
> From: jhauck@elmore.rr.com
> To: kolb-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: One Thing At A Time
> Date: Mon=2C 20 Apr 2009 08:34:21 -0500
>
>
> Lucien/Gang:
>
> My experience and opinions only.
>
> I don't know where you have been flying=2C but there isn't any clean air
=2C even
> if it looks clean.
>
> I would not consider operating my engine without the K&N filter oiled.
>
> > Don't want to get into a K&N bash fest=2C but truth is the unoiled filt
er
> is perfectly adequate for our needs as we generally don't run our motors
on
> the ground for long periods of time. Mostly we're up in the clean air.
>
> You just think "we're up in the clean air." Short local flights will
> probably not give you a real indication of how much dirt that little gold
> plated engine is injesting=2C but do an 8 hour flight day and you will be
> amazed at the amount of crude that collects on the leading edges of
> everything. What you don't see when flying is what can hurt you.
>
> > Oiling is a black art the first few times you do it and making a mistak
e
> those first couple of times till you get the hang of it can be very
> expensive and possibly painful.
>
> I'm not an expert at cleaning and oiling K&N air filters=2C so I usually
over
> oil. I also clean them with gasoline. I think it does a better job=2C is
> quicker=2C and a lot less expensive. I have never seen gasoline damage
> cotton. I have never had an engine problem because of a K&N oil filter th
at
> was over oiled.
>
> > I practically never oil mine for that reason as I'd rather be assured t
he
> > fan keeps turning after cleaning and installation. Without the oil they
> > still filter quite well=2C certainly well enough for our needs.
>
> I wouldn't buy an engine if I new it had been operated without an adequat
e
> air filter.
>
> Again=2C I am not going to gamble on the life of my engine by not oiling
the
> filter. In addition to the airplane=2C I also use oiled cotton and oiled
foam
> rubber air filter elements on my ATV and dirt bike. Without the "correct"
> oil=2C they probably would not last all day.
>
> There is a difference between the oil used for cotton and foam elements.
> Best not get them mixed up. Seems the oil for foam elements is quite stic
ky
> and thicker than oil used for cotton.
>
> > Finally=2C do use the K&N solvent for cleaning=2C tho. A regular solven
t will
> > eventually damage the element....
>
> Again=2C my own experience and opinions only.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
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Message 19
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Subject: | Re: One thing at a time |
- John- I use the K&N pre oiled filter, and I have not had occassion to c
lean it.- I don't know if it could be run dry, but I wouldn't.- Where I
have run it, it was dusty- including my yard.- I have seen engines (log
skidders) destroy their engines in a few hours when somebody ran it without
a filter instead of cleaning it.- Seems like the K&N might allow excess
oil to be pulled through pretty quickly, as opposed to the felt type used o
n a chain saw.- Either way, I think excessive oil would drip off, or get
wiped off.- I don't know if it could retain enough oil to clog.- The ol
d oil bath filters never seemed to restrict air flow (farm tractor and old
trucks).- Could be my friend is full of it- not for the first time, eithe
r.-
- My problem is probably due to the worn out carb parts, not the filter.
- I ordered the parts from Lockwood- should be here this week.
- Have a nice time at S&F, and say-hello to-Travis and Dennis for me.
- I am holding an order for them until they get back.-
-
-------------------------
----------------------- Bill
Sullivan
-------------------------
------------------------Win
dsor Locks, Ct.
-------------------------
----------------------- FS 44
7
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
>
> How well the filter is functioning is easy to verify by pulling it on a
> regular basis and checking the inside, and I've never observed a problem
> anywhere I've flown any of my engines.
>
> My experience and opinions only as well,
>
> LS
I think one would get a better idea of how much dirt is getting through the
filter by checking the inside of the carb and intake manifold, rather than
the inside of the filter.
john h
mkIII
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
Regarding filtering =93clean air=94=3B I agree with most everything John ha
s posted. Where I differ from John is=3B I don=92t like to use gasoline for
anything except the fuel tank
I bought my diesel truck new in =9396. When it was time to change the air c
leaner=2C I replaced it with a K&N. The filter has been used for over 120K
miles=2C (12 years) and is in great condition.
Yes=2C it can be costly to clean and oil filters. All of my vehicles and tr
actor now have K&N filters. I have used paint thinner as a cleaning solvent
for the filters. This breaks down the oil and releases the gathered gunk.
It does not appear to harm the filter fibers at all. Use a regular pump bot
tle you can buy at Wal-Mart to apply the thinner. Then wash the filter in a
dish soap/warm water solution. Allow it to dry before applying the oil. I
buy the genuine K&N oil from an online auto parts distributor in the 1 gall
on container. If you warm the oil before applying it=2C it will move throug
h the pump easier and will permeate the filter.
Just an opinion of a reader of the list.
I am still looking for MY KOLB.
Kurt
Sandy=2C Utah
> From: jhauck@elmore.rr.com
> To: kolb-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: One Thing At A Time
> Date: Mon=2C 20 Apr 2009 08:34:21 -0500
>
>
> Lucien/Gang:
>
> My experience and opinions only.
>
> I don't know where you have been flying=2C but there isn't any clean air
=2C even
> if it looks clean.
>
> I would not consider operating my engine without the K&N filter oiled.
>
> > Don't want to get into a K&N bash fest=2C but truth is the unoiled filt
er
> is perfectly adequate for our needs as we generally don't run our motors
on
> the ground for long periods of time. Mostly we're up in the clean air.
>
> You just think "we're up in the clean air." Short local flights will
> probably not give you a real indication of how much dirt that little gold
> plated engine is injesting=2C but do an 8 hour flight day and you will be
> amazed at the amount of crude that collects on the leading edges of
> everything. What you don't see when flying is what can hurt you.
>
> > Oiling is a black art the first few times you do it and making a mistak
e
> those first couple of times till you get the hang of it can be very
> expensive and possibly painful.
>
> I'm not an expert at cleaning and oiling K&N air filters=2C so I usually
over
> oil. I also clean them with gasoline. I think it does a better job=2C is
> quicker=2C and a lot less expensive. I have never seen gasoline damage
> cotton. I have never had an engine problem because of a K&N oil filter th
at
> was over oiled.
>
> > I practically never oil mine for that reason as I'd rather be assured t
he
> > fan keeps turning after cleaning and installation. Without the oil they
> > still filter quite well=2C certainly well enough for our needs.
>
> I wouldn't buy an engine if I new it had been operated without an adequat
e
> air filter.
>
> Again=2C I am not going to gamble on the life of my engine by not oiling
the
> filter. In addition to the airplane=2C I also use oiled cotton and oiled
foam
> rubber air filter elements on my ATV and dirt bike. Without the "correct"
> oil=2C they probably would not last all day.
>
> There is a difference between the oil used for cotton and foam elements.
> Best not get them mixed up. Seems the oil for foam elements is quite stic
ky
> and thicker than oil used for cotton.
>
> > Finally=2C do use the K&N solvent for cleaning=2C tho. A regular solven
t will
> > eventually damage the element....
>
> Again=2C my own experience and opinions only.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
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Message 22
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
If gasoline were going to damage cotton fiber, seems an air filter for
gasoline engines would be made of some other material. I can assure
you, the filter element is getting saturated with gasoline the entire
time the engine is running.
Probably the reason K&N recommends not using gasoline is the danger of
fire.
And, of course, liability. ;-)
What does the Rotax manual say about oiling K&N cotton filters?
john h
mkIII
Regarding filtering =93clean air=94; I agree with most everything John
has posted. Where I differ from John is; I don=92t like to use gasoline
for anything except the fuel tank
Kurt
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
[quote="williamtsullivan(at)att.n"]Lucien- Please correct me if I'm wrong. A friend
with extensive 2-stroke knowledge told me that oiling the K&N filter is
generally unnecessary because a 2-stroke at idle will "chuff" back into the filter,
leaving oil. This would not apply to 2-strokes with a reed valve. If run
at low speeds for a while it will become over oiled. If oiled as per spec,
and then run at low speed, it can cause noticable loss of power. He said what
you said- for our usage, clean and don't oil. Would you agree with this?
Bill Sullivan
Windsor Locks, Ct.
FS 447
> [b]
My personal experience with the K&N has been that it doesn't need oiling in an
aircraft application. Or putting it another way, I'd only oil if I were skilled
in the art of just enough but not too much oil. But I'm not and couldn't afford
bending metal in the process of learning how. So I don't.
All the oil really does is decrease the size of the particulates the element can
filter. It still works as a filter without the oil, but it's not as effective
on smaller particulates. It has not been my experience that this is a problem
in the air (John disagrees with me on this and I fully respect that and don't
discount it).
Ironically, I don't agree tho that the emissions from the carburettors qualify
as proper oiling of the filter tho ;). Yes, the 2-strokes do spit up a fair bit
and will eventually goop up the bottom of the filter over time. Mine always
did this and I went ahead and cleaned them soon as it started getting kind of
oily there.
My 912 is even clearing little spots in the bottom of my new filters already after
only about 20 or 30 hours of operation, so the 4 strokes spit up a little
as well.
In a _ground_ application, oiling is IMO necessary. I ran K&N's on my motorcycle
for a long time and you really need the extra filtering there. It also so happens
to not be hazardous to over oil on a ground-based motor, tho it will make
a mess and cause problems for a while unless you pull it, reclean and reoil
with less oil.
Reed valve 2-strokes spit up a little less than our piston-skirt induction 2-strokes
due to the longer duration timing on the induction on those, but they'll
still do it a little bit.
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
John Hauck wrote:
>
>
> I think one would get a better idea of how much dirt is getting through the
> filter by checking the inside of the carb and intake manifold, rather than
> the inside of the filter.
>
> john h
> mkIII
I usually drag fingers in the carburettor throat as well as the filter to check
for that very thing (i.e. a leak where the filter attaches to the carburettor
body. I've seen that happen and didn't catch it until checking the venturis).
In fact, I have enough hours on my 2 new K&N's that it's time to go pull them and
check them for that already..... so this is a good reminder (I also need to
pull my bowls and check those as you suggested too...)....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
> I usually drag fingers in the carburettor throat as well as the filter to
check for that very thing (i.e. a leak where the filter attaches to the
carburettor body. I've seen that happen and didn't catch it until checking
the venturis).
>
> In fact, I have enough hours on my 2 new K&N's that it's time to go pull
> them and check them for that already..... so this is a good reminder (I
> also need to pull my bowls and check those as you suggested too...)....
>
> LS
K&N filters are not 100%. Don't think any of them are.
I ran a K&N filter on my Dodge/Cummins only to find out the turbo pulls oil
out of the filter and coats the inside of the turbo, blades, and the
intercooler. Went back to the stock paper element and have less dirt being
pulled through, as I can tell.
However, we can't operate with a paper filter when there is a chance we will
encounter rain. The K&N does a good job in rain. Not many cross country
flights I do not encounter some of the wet stuff.
john h
mkIII
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
wrk2win4u(at)msn.com wrote:
>
> Yes C it can be costly to clean and oil filters. All of my vehicles and tractor
now have K&N filters. I have used paint thinner as a cleaning solvent for the
filters. This breaks down the oil and releases the gathered gunk. It does not
appear to harm the filter fibers at all.
>
A damaged K&N filter element due to using a wrong chemical to clean it is hard
to spot and requires a close inspection. The main symptom is shrinking of the
cotton - you can see it kind of shrivelled up and pulled away from the screen
a bit. If you compare a ruined one next to a new one, you can see what it looks
like.
You'll sometimes also see microscopic white fibers in small quantities on the inside
of the filter. I replace the filters immediately when I see this.
Oddly enough, the good aircraft grade solvent will cause the element to shrink
up like this and give the fibers syndrome. Kerosene will also ruin the filter...
Don't ask me why I know this.
I always only use the K&N solvent to clean mine as it's available everywhere and
is easy to keep on hand. I havn't tried gasoline but I agree with John that
it makes sense that it wouldn't hurt the filter....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
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Message 27
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
Kolb guys=2C
May I ask for a little clarification with regard to filters/oiling=2C etc
. My next project to build on my MkIII is my air filter inlet for my turbo
charger. I hadn't really considered that I needed to incorporate an oil co
ated filter( I considered the filter=2C just NOT the oil part). Maybe I sh
ould.
So=2C my question is...are we talking about a "foam" filter lightly soake
d in oil=2C or "paper" filter lightly soaked in oil? I can't recall seeing
any paper type filters oiled. I can think of tons of foam filters soaked
in oil=2C though=2C mostly yard equipment with Briggs & Stratton (type) en
gines.
My thoughts are to use a good foam filter. I hadn't considered including
oil=2C but I guess I should. I do agree there's a lot of crap in the air
that we sort of overlook (but a filter doesn't).
Paper or foam?? Any preference? Which is better?
Mike Welch
MkIII
> From: jhauck@elmore.rr.com
> To: kolb-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: One Thing At A Time
> Date: Mon=2C 20 Apr 2009 09:48:59 -0500
>
>
>
> > I usually drag fingers in the carburettor throat as well as the filter
to
> check for that very thing (i.e. a leak where the filter attaches to the
> carburettor body. I've seen that happen and didn't catch it until checkin
g
> the venturis).
> >
> > In fact=2C I have enough hours on my 2 new K&N's that it's time to go p
ull
> > them and check them for that already..... so this is a good reminder (I
> > also need to pull my bowls and check those as you suggested too...)....
> >
> > LS
>
>
> K&N filters are not 100%. Don't think any of them are.
>
> I ran a K&N filter on my Dodge/Cummins only to find out the turbo pulls o
il
> out of the filter and coats the inside of the turbo=2C blades=2C and the
> intercooler. Went back to the stock paper element and have less dirt bein
g
> pulled through=2C as I can tell.
>
> However=2C we can't operate with a paper filter when there is a chance we
will
> encounter rain. The K&N does a good job in rain. Not many cross country
> flights I do not encounter some of the wet stuff.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
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Message 28
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
I would not run my 912-S without oiling my K&N filters, I clean and oil them every
50 hours or so. While you would not find near as much dirt and dust in the
air as you would on the ground, it is most definately there. Remember you are
also running much higher power levels and continuous RPM's in the air than
on the ground, so even though there is less dust in the air, your engine will
suck in at least 4 times as much air as an engine on the ground, which means helps
balance the equation... You are getting a lot more dust in the air than
you think.
Its not just the size of the air passages also, Oil is very efficient at making
air particles stick to it, even if the passage is larger, the particle will stay
trapped to an oily surface. Thats why oil is great, it does not just depend
on air passage size.
I only use K&N oil on my filters, and follow their directions. Its not hard, I
have done this 4 times on my 912 and also several times on a 447 and never had
any problems with my engines not running perfectly after cleaning and oiling.
The importance of having a good performing air filter to achieve good engine life
is an accepted fact. I would not let an unreasonable fear of over oiling prevent
me from having a properly functioning filter ( Oiled in the case of K&N
). Putting to much motor oil the crankcase of an engine can also cause problems,
that does not mean I don't put motor oil in the engine at all, it just means
I put in the proper amount... Same goes for oil on the K&N air filters. I
would read K&N's instructions about the proper way to do it ( which I have done
), and have a well protected and good running engine that has a good chance
of maintaining compression and lasting to TBO or beyond.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
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Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
Thought you all might do it different over there.>>
Heh! Heh!
Just that my last planes instruments were calibrated in knots. ASI and vario
and I forgot.
Pat
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Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
What are you swinging Pat? Herb
Hi,
Wooden GT-2/157/NO 2BLADE HR tips. 157 cms dia. 98cms pitch. Max ground
Static 2750 rpm.
Thats what it says in the book.
Pat
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Subject: | Re: Kolb List Re: q |
A "G" model 17 has the chin turret .When I took the ride in it ,all I could
think of is the fact that they were in these airplanes for 8-10 hrs a time
,at deafening levels of sound and bullets flying through it>>
That chin turret was I think added because the Germans soon learned that the
B-17 gunners couldn`t cover the front and they then launched head on
attacks,jinking up or down at the last moment and flying through the
formation. Damned scary and brave.
Regarding the noise. A few years ago I managed to get on a Lancaster while
she taxied and those 4 Merlins and the great props. just outside the pilots
position made an incredible din. What it must have been like when she hit
full chat for a fully loaded takeoff run defeats the imagination.
Pat
Message 32
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
Mike W/Gang:
I'd go with K&N. There's a bunch of them out there in the experimental
and ultralight world.
Their filter element is woven cotten. A special oil is used to saturate
the cotton and make it an efficient air filter. They work great in dry
and wet conditions.
john h
mkIII
May I ask for a little clarification with regard to filters/oiling,
etc.
Mike Welch
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Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
58 inches in dia... 44 inch pitch... Sensenich makes super
props... been doing it for a long time...not sure about the ae9623... Herb.
Hi,
thought I might do the conversion.
61.8 inches dia. 38.5 inch pitch
Pat
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Subject: | Re: Kolb List Re: q |
> That chin turret was I think added because the Germans
>
> Pat
Is this still the Kolb Builders and Flyers List? Or have I picked the wrong
channel again?
john h
mkIII
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Subject: | Make One Change At A Time, Then Test Fly |
Flew over to Wetumpka Airport to wash my airplane.
Remember, yesterday after cleaning and oiling my K&N air filters, power had
dropped from 5400 rpm climb out and 5600 rpm WOT straight and level flight,
to 5200 and 5500. I had made three changes to the engine that could
possibly caused the change, but did not know which one. Now I do.
This morning, I was climbing out at 5300 and turning 5600 WOT straight and
level. My guess is that over oiling had restricted air flow a little
causing a reduction in power, because today she is screaming just where I
want it.
There is still 100 rpm difference climbing out, but this may be attributed
to air temp and density altitude. Who knows. I'm happy.
Now it is time to start making my pile of camping gear and clothes in the
middle of the living room floor in preparation for departure to Lakeland,
Florida, tomorrow. Probably will not leave here until around noon to arrive
LAL after 1800 and miss the air show.
I'm ready for a little trip and looking forward to seeing all my Kolb
friends at Paradise City.
john h
mkIII
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Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
Hello Mike,
here is a picture of the inside...
Pretty nice,
Is the throttle and trim in the middle a repeat of one at your left hand?
Mine has throttle and trim just under the left hand so I can fly right
handed with a repeater for a lefthanded co pilot.
The trim is forward as far as I can reach. The flaps are operated by a damn
great handle which projects from the rear of the cockpit between the pilot
and crew. You get used to it but it is a lousy bit of design. Putting up the
flaps as you clean up climbing through5/600 feet produces porpoising like a
new Spitfire pilot changing hands to operate the u/c.
Incidentally a Spitfire was auctioned today at an airfield near me. She went
for 1.5 million . I remember when we were collecting to buy a Spitfire at a
Wings Week during the war that a Spit. was 5000 and a Lancaster was 25000.
I wish I had bought half a dozen at the time.
Cheers
Pat
Pat.
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Subject: | Re: Kolb List Re: q |
Is this still the Kolb Builders and Flyers List? Or have I picked the wrong
channel again?
Hi John,
I knew it would be you!. I was waiting for someone to crack the whip. You
are quite right, things have got a bit off topic the last few days. Back to
the grindstone.
I am also on a Jazz list and there is always someone complaining that we are
discussing the wrong things. As no`one can even define jazz you can see that
there is a lot of room for argument. Someone said that a List is like a Club
bar. Everyone probably has the same basic interest but they are not all
discussing the same aspect. If you don`t like what is being discussed in
this group, just move further down the bar.
Personally I am up to here with `b****y filters and I couldn`t care less if
they are foam or paper but I wouldn`t think of saying so.
Cheers
Pat
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- John- What is the weight of all your camping gear, and how do you stow
it?- What do you tie it to?- Yesterday's cockpit photo has me wondering
.
-
-------------------------
-------------- Bill Sullivan
-------------------------
-------------- Windsor Locks, Ct.
-------------------------
-------------- FS 447
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Subject: | Re: Kolb List Re: q |
> Personally I am up to here with `b****y filters and I couldn`t care less
if
> they are foam or paper but I wouldn`t think of saying so.
>
> Cheers
>
> Pat
I'm sorry you feel that way about air filters. I guess the b****y filters
are something you all use over there. Haven't run across any of them over
here.
I didn't make the rules for the Kolb List. Matt Dralle did. He owns it. I
think it is Matt that sends out the operating guidelines each month, not me.
I can only speak for myself, one among many.
john h
mkIII
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Bill S/Gang:
My camping gear, clothes, air plane stuff, weighs between 100 and 125
lbs.
I have 150 lbs of fuel (25 gal) when I take off.
I weigh probably close to 200 lbs fully clothed with a belly full of
eggs, bacon, grits, and toast, plus 3 cups of coffee.
Dennis Souder said my airplane weighed 630 lbs in 1994. Probably gained
some more weight since then. That's about 1100 lbs and my MKIII is
placarded for 1200 lbs max gross.
I designed my mkIII to fly cross country before we ever started welding
the fuselage up. 25 gal aluminum fuel tank up top where the standard
MKIII has a large empty space. This opened up the bottom half, normally
cluttered up with two 5 gal plastic cans. Most of my gear is stowed in
the cargo compartment.
I also stow gear under each seat, behind each seat, and up in the nose
pod ahead of the rudder pedals.
Got a place for everything I need to live out of the mkIII. Nothing
gets tied down, it all has its own spot.
john h
mkIII
John- What is the weight of all your camping gear, and how do
you stow it? What do you tie it to? Yesterday's cockpit photo has me
wondering.
Bill Sullivan
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
JetPilot wrote:
> I would not run my 912-S without oiling my K&N filters, I clean and oil them
every 50 hours or so. While you would not find near as much dirt and dust in
the air as you would on the ground, it is most definately there. Remember you
are also running much higher power levels and continuous RPM's in the air than
on the ground, so even though there is less dust in the air, your engine will
suck in at least 4 times as much air as an engine on the ground, which means
helps balance the equation... You are getting a lot more dust in the air than
you think.
>
> Its not just the size of the air passages also, Oil is very efficient at making
air particles stick to it, even if the passage is larger, the particle will
stay trapped to an oily surface. Thats why oil is great, it does not just depend
on air passage size.
>
> I only use K&N oil on my filters, and follow their directions. Its not hard,
I have done this 4 times on my 912 and also several times on a 447 and never
had any problems with my engines not running perfectly after cleaning and oiling.
>
> The importance of having a good performing air filter to achieve good engine
life is an accepted fact. I would not let an unreasonable fear of over oiling
prevent me from having a properly functioning filter ( Oiled in the case of K&N
). Putting to much motor oil the crankcase of an engine can also cause problems,
that does not mean I don't put motor oil in the engine at all, it just
means I put in the proper amount... Same goes for oil on the K&N air filters.
I would read K&N's instructions about the proper way to do it ( which I have
done ), and have a well protected and good running engine that has a good chance
of maintaining compression and lasting to TBO or beyond.
>
> Mike
Well you know... being as how I'm not afraid to overturn something I've done forever
that may still not be the right thing to do...... and how I take what ya'll
tell me seriously........
I did run across a good idea for checking for overoiling of the K&N that had never
occurred to me. The idea is to check the airflow through the filter with a
vacuum. I.e. a small shop vac put over the outlet of the filter can clear out
excess oil if overoiled and can give an indication of proper airflow.......
I'm going to try that when I do the maint. on my current set of filters. Why not
as that's really my only worry with oiling (I don't wish to repeat the overoiling
experience I had in my trike for sure)...
FWIW, from the reminder by John I did my float bowl check today and happily there
was no water or crapola in either one. When I lived in TX, I always found at
least a small ball of H2O in the bottom of the bowls when I did this check (usually
at 25 to 30 hours or thereabouts). I attribute that to the much drier
climate here.
LS
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240364#240364
Message 42
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
There is one thing I haven't heard mentioned and that is moisture that can
be adsorb by the filters if not oiled.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "lucien" <lstavenhagen@hotmail.com>
Sent: 2009-04-20 17:53
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: One Thing At A Time
>
>
> JetPilot wrote:
>> I would not run my 912-S without oiling my K&N filters, I clean and oil
>> them every 50 hours or so. While you would not find near as much dirt
>> and dust in the air as you would on the ground, it is most definately
>> there. Remember you are also running much higher power levels and
>> continuous RPM's in the air than on the ground, so even though there is
>> less dust in the air, your engine will suck in at least 4 times as much
>> air as an engine on the ground, which means helps balance the equation...
>> You are getting a lot more dust in the air than you think.
>>
>> Its not just the size of the air passages also, Oil is very efficient at
>> making air particles stick to it, even if the passage is larger, the
>> particle will stay trapped to an oily surface. Thats why oil is great,
>> it does not just depend on air passage size.
>>
>> I only use K&N oil on my filters, and follow their directions. Its not
>> hard, I have done this 4 times on my 912 and also several times on a 447
>> and never had any problems with my engines not running perfectly after
>> cleaning and oiling.
>>
>> The importance of having a good performing air filter to achieve good
>> engine life is an accepted fact. I would not let an unreasonable fear of
>> over oiling prevent me from having a properly functioning filter ( Oiled
>> in the case of K&N ). Putting to much motor oil the crankcase of an
>> engine can also cause problems, that does not mean I don't put motor oil
>> in the engine at all, it just means I put in the proper amount... Same
>> goes for oil on the K&N air filters. I would read K&N's instructions
>> about the proper way to do it ( which I have done ), and have a well
>> protected and good running engine that has a good chance of maintaining
>> compression and lasting to TBO or beyond.
>>
>> Mike
>
>
> Well you know... being as how I'm not afraid to overturn something I've
> done forever that may still not be the right thing to do...... and how I
> take what ya'll tell me seriously........
>
> I did run across a good idea for checking for overoiling of the K&N that
> had never occurred to me. The idea is to check the airflow through the
> filter with a vacuum. I.e. a small shop vac put over the outlet of the
> filter can clear out excess oil if overoiled and can give an indication of
> proper airflow.......
>
> I'm going to try that when I do the maint. on my current set of filters.
> Why not as that's really my only worry with oiling (I don't wish to repeat
> the overoiling experience I had in my trike for sure)...
>
>
> FWIW, from the reminder by John I did my float bowl check today and
> happily there was no water or crapola in either one. When I lived in TX, I
> always found at least a small ball of H2O in the bottom of the bowls when
> I did this check (usually at 25 to 30 hours or thereabouts). I attribute
> that to the much drier climate here.
>
> LS
> LS
>
> --------
> LS
> Titan II SS
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240364#240364
>
>
>
Message 43
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
Lucien,
The Vacuum test is a really good idea. If there is to much oil in the filter to
block it, a strong Vacuum might be enough to clear the filter out to where it
should be. A two stroke is much more acceptable to have problems with a richer
mixture than a 4 stroke. I have never heard of a 912 losing power because
of an over oiled filter.
Most people use K&N filters on their 912's , I think if power loss were a big risk
due to over oiling, that we would have heard a LOT of reports about this issue
on the forums, and Rotax groups over the years. The absence of reports like
this on a product that most of us use does indicate its just not a big problem.
Now I'm sure if one went and dunked the air filter in a can full of oil
and brought it out dripping wet, it would not be great... I just have never
heard of oiling the K&N filters being super critical or a dangerous thing.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240390#240390
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Dear Kolb listers, I just inquired to FULL LOTUS to get a replacement cost
as you can see below the mono float is not cheap especially the retractable
gear $1950. I have , and I brought it to Fla. this year, A Mono 1000 with
Sponsons and retractable- landing gear, that came off my Firestar Kxp, I
am now building a Firefly and need money I will let it go for $1000 plus 1/
2 the gas to get it here$125. It is used and one of the 8 bladders is flat
it needs work but a new one needs work untill you get it installed on you a
ircraft.=0A----- If you want to try an inflatable , Amphibious-
, float system $1125 is a lot less risk than $4610! I must sell it this wee
k as i need money to get- home ,I will deliver it to Sun& Fun or anywhere
in north Fl. or on the coast between Fl and Ma.Email if interested. PS it
worked great on my Firestar with a 503 single carb. Thanks Chris=0A=0A=0A--
--- Forwarded Message ----=0AFrom: Info <info@full-lotus.com>=0ATo: chris d
avis <capedavis@yahoo.com>=0ASent: Monday, April 20, 2009 1:51:53 PM=0ASubj
ect: RE: momofloat=0A=0A=0AHi Chris=0A-=0AThank you for your interest in
our products. Below is a price break down for your request:=0A-i=0AMono 1
000------------ $2495.00usd=0A-=0A2 sponson--
------------$- 165.00usd/pair=0A-=0AAmphibious
kit------- $1950.00usd=0A-=0AFront bladder-----
----- $---92.00ea-=0A-=0ARear--------
-------------- $-- 68.00ea=0A-=0A-=0A
-=0APlease let me know if you have any further questions.=0AJeffery M. Ho
lomis=0APresident Full Lotus Mfg=0ASimolo Customs=0Awww.full-lotus.com=0Aph
250-260-3714=0Afax 250-483-4716 =0A-----Original Message-----=0AFrom: chri
s davis [mailto:capedavis@yahoo.com]=0ASent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 6:56
AM=0ATo: info@full-lotus.com=0ASubject: momofloat=0A=0A=0A =0Afull-Lotus ,
I am writing for prices ? Mono 1000,with retractable gear and 2 sponsons a
lso what are the costs for replaceable air bladders I understand there are
8 ,what are the cost of each one thank you . Chris =0A=0A=0A=0A
Message 45
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Fred I dont know if you could possibly still be interested- but my wife
- and I managed to get the Mono float system to a Fl. this year it has a
flat bladder maybe 2 but the Sponsons and the retractable gear are there an
d with some work it will be flyable and floatableand at 1/4 the cost I thin
k its worth the investment if you want to try an inflatable. I am truly sor
ry for the lost time but I will deliver it to Sun & Fun if that works for y
ou, The sale of it will be the only way I can afford to go this year.! Than
ks- Chris=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Forwarded Message ----=0AFrom: Info <info@full
-lotus.com>=0ATo: chris davis <capedavis@yahoo.com>=0ASent: Monday, April 2
0, 2009 1:51:53 PM=0ASubject: RE: momofloat=0A=0A=0AHi Chris=0A-=0AThank
you for your interest in our products. Below is a price break down for your
request:=0A-=0AMono 1000------------ $2495.00usd
=0A-=0A2 sponson--------------$- 165.00usd/
pair=0A-=0AAmphibious kit------- $1950.00usd=0A-=0AFront
bladder---------- $---92.00ea-=0A-=0ARear-
--------------------- $-- 68.
00ea=0A-=0A-=0A-=0APlease let me know if you have any further questio
ns.=0AJeffery M. Holomis=0APresident Full Lotus Mfg=0ASimolo Customs=0Awww.
full-lotus.com=0Aph 250-260-3714=0Afax 250-483-4716 =0A-----Original Messag
e-----=0AFrom: chris davis [mailto:capedavis@yahoo.com]=0ASent: Saturday, A
pril 18, 2009 6:56 AM=0ATo: info@full-lotus.com=0ASubject: momofloat=0A=0A
=0A =0Afull-Lotus , I am writing for prices ? Mono 1000,with retractable g
ear and 2 sponsons also what are the costs for replaceable air bladders I u
nderstand there are 8 ,what are the cost of each one thank you . Chris
=0A=0A=0A=0A
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Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
I have never heard of a 912 losing power because of an over oiled filter.
>
> Mike
I just wrote about losing 200 rpm yesterday. Then today my power was back.
I attribute that to an over oiled air filter because I have changed nothing
else since then. I did fly about 45 minutes, probably enough to clean up
the air filter.
I did not have a complete loss of power, by any means.
Don't believe a two stroke would have been affected by over oiling any more
than my 912ULS did. If it did, it would be readily noticeable on take off.
Unless you were operating on a very short, tough strip, you would have
plenty time to see the reduction in take off power and abort the flight, if
necessary.
john h
mkIII
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Subject: | Kolb crash yesterday |
http://www.timesnews.net/article.php?id=9013281
--
"Gold cannot always get you good soldiers, but good soldiers can always
get you gold"-- Niccolo Machiavelli
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Subject: | Re: CHT Probe-Attachment/Breakage |
Ed,
Here's the cure!
I read about this idea in the EAA UL magazine several years ago. Get a 10
mm size CHT sensor (available from CPS or Lockwood) and place it under one
of the 8 mm cylinder head nuts (I used the rear most bolt/nut position on
the PTO end, thinking it might be the hottest). It won't give you the same
cylinder head temperature that it would under the spark plug (it will read
a lower figure), BUT it can be used as a reference to see if your CHT is
changing due to a broken fan belt or whatever. And it ends the broken
sensor saga.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
In a message dated 4/19/2009 3:41:08 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
DAquaNut@aol.com writes:
List,
Has anyone figured out a way to keep from ruining the CHT attachment
ring under the sparkplug? Mine broke and I would like to keep from replacing
it again if at all possible. Any trick to it?
Ed Diebel FF 62
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Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
At 02:16 PM 4/20/2009, you wrote:
>
>Thought you all might do it different over there.>>
>
>Heh! Heh!
>
>Just that my last planes instruments were calibrated in knots. ASI
>and vario and I forgot.
>
>Pat
I thought it was furlongs per fortnight.
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