Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:18 AM - Re: Wingtips (Thom Riddle)
2. 05:01 AM - Re: Re: Fuel Filter Failure (pj.ladd)
3. 05:52 AM - Re: Re: Fw: Photo (zeprep251@aol.com)
4. 08:15 AM - Re: Peace hat (pj.ladd)
5. 08:46 AM - Re: Peace hat (Jim Hauck)
6. 09:21 AM - Wing U-joint (Jimmy Young)
7. 09:29 AM - Re: Wing U-joint (planecrazzzy)
8. 10:26 AM - Re: Wing U-joint (JetPilot)
9. 10:32 AM - Re: Wing U-joint (Larry Cottrell)
10. 10:33 AM - Re: Wing U-joint (Jack B. Hart)
11. 10:43 AM - Re: Wingtips (JetPilot)
12. 11:20 AM - Re: Wing U-joint (Richard & Martha Neilsen)
13. 11:22 AM - Workin on my firestar (Kirkds)
14. 12:17 PM - Re: Wing U-joint (frank.goodnight)
15. 12:23 PM - Re: Wing U-joint (John Hauck)
16. 01:23 PM - Re: Workin on my firestar (planecrazzzy)
17. 01:24 PM - Re: Wing U-joint (Herb)
18. 01:36 PM - Re: Wing U-joint (frank.goodnight)
19. 02:03 PM - Re: Wing U-joint (John Hauck)
20. 02:05 PM - Re: Workin on my firestar (zeprep251@aol.com)
21. 02:14 PM - Re: Wing U-joint (Richard Girard)
22. 02:49 PM - Re: Wing U-joint (robert bean)
23. 03:50 PM - Re: Re: Wingtips (Jack B. Hart)
24. 03:50 PM - Re: Wing U-joint (Jack B. Hart)
25. 04:09 PM - Re: Wing U-joint (planecrazzzy)
26. 06:00 PM - Re: Gang Mentality, And A Few driving many away from Kolb List (geoffthis)
27. 06:11 PM - Re: Wing U-joint (Herb)
28. 07:42 PM - Clearview fuel filters on eBay (Richard Girard)
29. 07:53 PM - Re: Clearview fuel filters on eBay (Herb)
30. 07:53 PM - Re: Re: Wingtips (robert bean)
31. 08:24 PM - Re: Clearview fuel filters on eBay (Herb)
32. 08:40 PM - Re: Clearview fuel filters on eBay (Richard Girard)
33. 08:48 PM - Re: Wing U-joint (WhiskeyVictor36@aol.com)
34. 09:42 PM - Re: Clearview fuel filters on eBay (jerb)
Message 1
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Jack,
Thanks for the corrected link. That is a very interesting study. It would surely
complicate the wing tip construction on a Kolb and make it very un-Kolb looking
:-).
do not archive
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
Kolb Slingshot SS-021
Jabiru 2200A #1574
Tennessee Prop 64x34
A complex system that works is invariably found to have evolved from a simple system
that works.
- John Gaule
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Subject: | Re: Fuel Filter Failure |
BTW, despite what you may think, I consider this an endearing quality
and
memorable experience, so there's no disrespect at all!>
Hi Robert,
We like it. Incidentally New Zealand has no motorways at all. No wonder
I like that country.
Pat
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I was told that the source of these fairings went away.It was installed before
I purchased the Mark- 3.Next rainy day I will search the paperwork I got with
the plane for evidence of the source.This 1999 kit languished in California for
4 or 5 years before coming to Ohio for completion.I suspect some of these fairings
were found or made there in the late 90's or early 2000's
-----Original Message-----
From: albertakolbmk3 <cheriebraun@xplornet.com>
Sent: Thu, Aug 27, 2009 1:39 am
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Fwd: Photo
Where did you get that fairing at the wing fuselage junction?
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=259906#259906
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The last time you Brits brokered a peace we ended up in WWII, so put the
peace hat back in the closet:)>>
Hi Jim,
neat but a trifle unfair.. You sound as if you are getting to enjoy it!
Cheers
Pat
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Pat and all;
Nope, don't enjoy urinating contest at all. Waste of time and energy.
Have a good one.
Jim H
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Dear Kolb gang,
I've got a question about my rear wing U-joint connection. If the U-joint has some
play in it, is the correct fix to simply tighten the castle nut that's inside
the joint enough to take out the play? I've got one that is nice & firm with
no play, and the other has maybe 3/16" of slop in it. I believe it's been that
way since I've owned the plane, but just noticed it this week when I grabbed
the leading edge near the root rib and shook the wing a bit. There is a bit
of space between the back of the U-joint and the square tube it is mounted to
which is causing the play, so I'm assuming tightening that nut down some solves
the problem, just want some confirmation please.
By the way, the HKS is running great, got about 22 hrs on it now, plenty of power.
Thanks,
Jimmy Y
FS II, 355 hrs AF, 22 hrs on HKS
--------
Jimmy Young
FS II, HKS 700
N7043P
Read this topic online here:
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Subject: | Re: Wing U-joint |
3/16" does not sound right.... You better check to make sure the cotter
pin is in place......
If the joint "does" need to be out that far ( unlikely)
Shim it , to a snug fit....
Gotta Fly...
Mike & "Jaz" in MN
.
.
.
--------
.
.
.
.
.
Do Not Archive
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Subject: | Re: Wing U-joint |
Jimmy,
The joint should not have any play in it, but it should not be tight either. If
the castle nut is tightened to much, it will put undue stress or even break
something when you twist the wing. The assembly needs to rotate freely under
the castle nut, with the minimum play possible.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=259974#259974
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Subject: | Re: Wing U-joint |
Hi Jimmy,
My u joints were the same, I simply snugged it them down until they
had no slop, but would still move. Of course while you are there, be
sure to check every thing and make sure that it meets the safety
requirements. My plane was built by someone else as well, and I think
he just didn't get it tightened as tight as he should have or there was
a burr or something on it.
It looks as though you are taking advantage of the new engine to make up
for lost time. Good for you! I just turned 500 hours on my 94 Firestar
this morning.
Larry C
----- Original Message -----
From: Jimmy Young
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 10:20 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Wing U-joint
Dear Kolb gang,
I've got a question about my rear wing U-joint connection. If the
U-joint has some play in it, is the correct fix to simply tighten the
castle nut that's inside the joint enough to take out the play? I've got
one that is nice & firm with no play, and the other has maybe 3/16" of
slop in it. I believe it's been that way since I've owned the plane, but
just noticed it this week when I grabbed the leading edge near the root
rib and shook the wing a bit. There is a bit of space between the back
of the U-joint and the square tube it is mounted to which is causing the
play, so I'm assuming tightening that nut down some solves the problem,
just want some confirmation please.
By the way, the HKS is running great, got about 22 hrs on it now,
plenty of power.
Thanks,
Jimmy Y
FS II, 355 hrs AF, 22 hrs on HKS
--------
Jimmy Young
FS II, HKS 700
N7043P
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=259960#259960
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
08/27/09 08:11:00
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Wing U-joint |
At 09:20 AM 8/27/09 -0700, you wrote:
>I've got a question about my rear wing U-joint connection. If the U-joint
has some play in it, is the correct fix to simply tighten the castle nut
that's inside the joint enough to take out the play? I've got one that is
nice & firm with no play, and the other has maybe 3/16" of slop in it. I
believe it's been that way since I've owned the plane, but just noticed it
this week when I grabbed the leading edge near the root rib and shook the
wing a bit. There is a bit of space between the back of the U-joint and the
square tube it is mounted to which is causing the play, so I'm assuming
tightening that nut down some solves the problem, just want some
confirmation please.
>
Jimmy,
I removed all play from the U-joints by drilling out the holes and bushing
them to get good bearing surfaces for the pins/bolts. To take the slop out
of the hole for the cage swivel bolt, I shimmed the bolt to fit the hole and
then used a couple of greased "O"rings as compression springs and a washer,
so that I could tighten the nut and put the whole joint in compression.
With this scheme one does not have to loosen the nut to fold the wings in
order to get rid of all slop in the joint. How it was done can be seen at:
http://jackbhart.com/firefly/firefly128.html
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
Message 11
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jbhart(at)onlyinternet.ne wrote:
>
>
> UL-plane 6 60% 20% 70% 42% by retrofit
> estimate rectangular wing
>
> By the way, this is just not theory, aircraft are flying using this technology.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Winchester, IN
Very good post Jack, and exactly what I have been saying about wingtips in this
thread all along. This also proves another point, that Richard Pike, Rick Gerard,
and a couple others are so desperate to settle an old score and discredit
anything that I post, that they will mislead everyone, and try to suppress
good information in order to advance their own personal agenda. These people
that instigated this whole episode and those that jumped on the bandwagon of
joining in on a bash fest over good and true information are nothing but a disservice
to the Kolb community.
Even though these guys are under the illusion that misleading this group, and posting
bad information is OK as long as their little gang supports them, most
people do come here for good information and ways to improve their Kolbs. I think
most readers will think twice before listening to Richard Pike, and a couple
of the others for aviation advice.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=259980#259980
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Wing U-joint |
Jimmy
Yes tighten the nut down enough to take the slop out. The problem may be
that the next hole in the castle nut may be too tight to allow the joint to
rotate for folding. Find some thin washers. Use the thin washer/s between
the nut and U-joint to get the U-joint snug but loose enough to rotate.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jimmy Young" <jdy100@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 12:20 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Wing U-joint
>
> Dear Kolb gang,
>
>
> I've got a question about my rear wing U-joint connection. If the U-joint
> has some play in it, is the correct fix to simply tighten the castle nut
> that's inside the joint enough to take out the play? I've got one that is
> nice & firm with no play, and the other has maybe 3/16" of slop in it. I
> believe it's been that way since I've owned the plane, but just noticed it
> this week when I grabbed the leading edge near the root rib and shook the
> wing a bit. There is a bit of space between the back of the U-joint and
> the square tube it is mounted to which is causing the play, so I'm
> assuming tightening that nut down some solves the problem, just want some
> confirmation please.
>
> By the way, the HKS is running great, got about 22 hrs on it now, plenty
> of power.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jimmy Y
> FS II, 355 hrs AF, 22 hrs on HKS
>
> --------
> Jimmy Young
> FS II, HKS 700
> N7043P
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=259960#259960
>
>
>
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Subject: | Workin on my firestar |
Been working on my firestar. Finally got the airspeed to read accurately thanks
to Mr. Pikes idea of mounting the static and pitot as suggested on his website.
Thanks! Also found that the supposed glass inline fuel filters that were discussed
on another thread aren't all glass. The one I got from a leading aircraft
parts supplier advertised as glass was some kind of plastic and it warped
apparently from the fuel. Was testing the system with the electric pump and fuel
began spurting out the filter where the clear plastic meets the gasket. Took
it off and apart and found the supposed glass was plastic and it is deformed
from the fuel. I'm fortunate that I discovered it on the ground and not in the
air. Whew!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=259996#259996
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Subject: | Re: Wing U-joint |
Hi Jim,
My Firestar has very loose hinge joints, If i tighten the nut up more
one more cotter key hole it makes the assy too tight and I can't fold
the wings without tearing something up. I've thought about making
some brass shims.as I fold every time I fly. All that slack can't be
good for the bolt or fitting. Glad you brought it to mind I'll have to
move fixing it to the top of my To Do List . If I didn't have to fold
I would just tighten
the nut, shimming as necessary.
Glad to hear your HKS is doing good. Mine has over 80 almost trouble
free hrs.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar2
HKS
Brownsville, TX
On Aug 27, 2009, at 11:20 AM, Jimmy Young wrote:
>
> Dear Kolb gang,
>
>
> I've got a question about my rear wing U-joint connection. If the U-
> joint has some play in it, is the correct fix to simply tighten the
> castle nut that's inside the joint enough to take out the play? I've
> got one that is nice & firm with no play, and the other has maybe
> 3/16" of slop in it. I believe it's been that way since I've owned
> the plane, but just noticed it this week when I grabbed the leading
> edge near the root rib and shook the wing a bit. There is a bit of
> space between the back of the U-joint and the square tube it is
> mounted to which is causing the play, so I'm assuming tightening
> that nut down some solves the problem, just want some confirmation
> please.
>
> By the way, the HKS is running great, got about 22 hrs on it now,
> plenty of power.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jimmy Y
> FS II, 355 hrs AF, 22 hrs on HKS
>
> --------
> Jimmy Young
> FS II, HKS 700
> N7043P
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=259960#259960
>
>
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Wing U-joint |
> Yes tighten the nut down enough to take the slop out. The problem may be
> that the next hole in the castle nut may be too tight to allow the joint
> to rotate for folding. Find some thin washers. Use the thin washer/s
> between the nut and U-joint to get the U-joint snug but loose enough to
> rotate.
>
> Rick Neilsen
Jimmy Y/Gang:
You can get AN washers the normal thickness, 1/16" and thin ones, 1/32".
That will help get the slop out.
john h
mkIII
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Workin on my firestar |
Mine is Glass... it came from Napa Auto store...
.
.
Gotta Fly...
Mike & "Jaz" the Flying Dog
.
.
Buttercup - STOL - Aircraft
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Buttercup-STOL/
Firestar I&II - STOL - Aircraft ( No Jet Pilot - aka/Moron )
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Kolb_Firestar/
My Web Site:
http://www.geocities.com/planecrazzzy/Planecrazzzy.html
Sometimes you just have to take the leap and build your wings on the way down...
--------
.
.
.
.
.
Do Not Archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=260041#260041
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Wing U-joint |
Frank
Pull the nut and grind its back side in a trial and error manner
til you get the desired result...Herb
At 02:16 PM 8/27/2009, you wrote:
>
>Hi Jim,
>
>My Firestar has very loose hinge joints, If i tighten the nut up more
>one more cotter key hole it makes the assy too tight and I can't fold
>the wings without tearing something up. I've thought about making
>some brass shims.as I fold every time I fly. All that slack can't be
>good for the bolt or fitting. Glad you brought it to mind I'll have to
>move fixing it to the top of my To Do List . If I didn't have to fold
>I would just tighten
>the nut, shimming as necessary.
>Glad to hear your HKS is doing good. Mine has over 80 almost trouble
>free hrs.
>
>Frank Goodnight
>Firestar2
>HKS
>Brownsville, TX
>On Aug 27, 2009, at 11:20 AM, Jimmy Young wrote:
>
>>
>>Dear Kolb gang,
>>
>>
>>I've got a question about my rear wing U-joint connection. If the
>>U- joint has some play in it, is the correct fix to simply tighten the
>>castle nut that's inside the joint enough to take out the play? I've
>>got one that is nice & firm with no play, and the other has maybe
>>3/16" of slop in it. I believe it's been that way since I've owned
>>the plane, but just noticed it this week when I grabbed the leading
>>edge near the root rib and shook the wing a bit. There is a bit of
>>space between the back of the U-joint and the square tube it is
>>mounted to which is causing the play, so I'm assuming tightening
>>that nut down some solves the problem, just want some confirmation
>>please.
>>
>>By the way, the HKS is running great, got about 22 hrs on it now,
>>plenty of power.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Jimmy Y
>>FS II, 355 hrs AF, 22 hrs on HKS
>>
>>--------
>>Jimmy Young
>>FS II, HKS 700
>>N7043P
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Read this topic online here:
>>
>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=259960#259960
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>08/27/09 08:11:00
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Subject: | Re: Wing U-joint |
Hi Herb,
I think thats a better idea than making shims , easier anyway . Thanks
for your input.
Frank Goodnight
On Aug 27, 2009, at 3:24 PM, Herb wrote:
>
> Frank
>
> Pull the nut and grind its back side in a trial and error manner
> til you get the desired result...Herb
>
>
> At 02:16 PM 8/27/2009, you wrote:
>> >
>>
>> Hi Jim,
>>
>> My Firestar has very loose hinge joints, If i tighten the nut up more
>> one more cotter key hole it makes the assy too tight and I can't fold
>> the wings without tearing something up. I've thought about making
>> some brass shims.as I fold every time I fly. All that slack can't be
>> good for the bolt or fitting. Glad you brought it to mind I'll have
>> to
>> move fixing it to the top of my To Do List . If I didn't have to fold
>> I would just tighten
>> the nut, shimming as necessary.
>> Glad to hear your HKS is doing good. Mine has over 80 almost trouble
>> free hrs.
>>
>> Frank Goodnight
>> Firestar2
>> HKS
>> Brownsville, TX
>> On Aug 27, 2009, at 11:20 AM, Jimmy Young wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Dear Kolb gang,
>>>
>>>
>>> I've got a question about my rear wing U-joint connection. If the
>>> U- joint has some play in it, is the correct fix to simply tighten
>>> the
>>> castle nut that's inside the joint enough to take out the play? I've
>>> got one that is nice & firm with no play, and the other has maybe
>>> 3/16" of slop in it. I believe it's been that way since I've owned
>>> the plane, but just noticed it this week when I grabbed the leading
>>> edge near the root rib and shook the wing a bit. There is a bit of
>>> space between the back of the U-joint and the square tube it is
>>> mounted to which is causing the play, so I'm assuming tightening
>>> that nut down some solves the problem, just want some confirmation
>>> please.
>>>
>>> By the way, the HKS is running great, got about 22 hrs on it now,
>>> plenty of power.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Jimmy Y
>>> FS II, 355 hrs AF, 22 hrs on HKS
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Jimmy Young
>>> FS II, HKS 700
>>> N7043P
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=259960#259960
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> 08/27/09 08:11:00
>
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Wing U-joint |
> Pull the nut and grind its back side in a trial and error manner
> til you get the desired result...Herb
Might work for Herb, but not for me.
Like I mentioned earlier today, there are thick, 1/16" washers and thin,
1/32" washers, AN type available to do the job.
I'll use washers the get the correct fit, before grinding off the protective
cad plating on the nut.
john h
mkIII
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Workin on my firestar |
The way fuels have changed over the last 10 years or so, has put the load of testing
components squarely on the shoulders of the pilot.The slosh compound we
used to seal our tanks years ago cannot resist the chemicals like toluene ,ethanol.hexane
and benzene You would not believe the head aches that has caused
for the guys with molded in, fiberglass tanks.Look up the msds for unleaded fuel.The
safest way probably is to stick with avfuel.But If I was looking for a
filter I would use one that has a record of success with the type of fuel I intended
to use.I can't see a problem using an automotive filter from NAPA if I
was using unleaded auto fuel.I know a lot of the guys have had no problem with
those small glass filters but I like those 3" long 2" dia. clear plastic inline
numbers,probably because I'm frugal, plus I can see whats in it
? G.Aman MK-3C 470hrs, 282hrs.on a NAPA inline
-----Original Message-----
From: Kirkds <kirkds@dishmail.net>
Sent: Thu, Aug 27, 2009 2:21 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: Workin on my firestar
Been working on my firestar. Finally got the airspeed to read accurately thanks
to Mr. Pikes idea of mounting the static and pitot as suggested on his website.
Thanks! Also found that the supposed glass inline fuel filters that were
discussed on another thread aren't all glass. The one I got from a leading
aircraft parts supplier advertised as glass was some kind of plastic and it
warped apparently from the fuel. Was testing the system with the electric pump
and fuel began spurting out the filter where the clear plastic meets the gasket.
Took it off and apart and found the supposed glass was plastic and it is
deformed from the fuel. I'm fortunate that I discovered it on the ground and not
in the air. Whew!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=259996#259996
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Subject: | Re: Wing U-joint |
Guys, Just a suggestion but before "fixing" anything I like to know why it
broke. I agree with John, grinding is a bad idea. You remove the plating and
your likelihood of getting the surface normal to the threads is slim at
best.
Rick Girard
do not archive
On Thu, Aug 27, 2009 at 3:56 PM, John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
> > Pull the nut and grind its back side in a trial and error manner
>
>> til you get the desired result...Herb
>>
>
>
> Might work for Herb, but not for me.
>
> Like I mentioned earlier today, there are thick, 1/16" washers and thin,
> 1/32" washers, AN type available to do the job.
>
> I'll use washers the get the correct fit, before grinding off the
> protective cad plating on the nut.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Wing U-joint |
That is the best remedy. I have an aluminum spacer in one of my
joints to adjust sweep in that wing to match the other.
I smear never-seize on the whole mess and have zero wear so far.
BB
On 27, Aug 2009, at 4:24 PM, Herb wrote:
>
> Frank
>
> Pull the nut and grind its back side in a trial and error manner
> til you get the desired result...Herb
>
>
> At 02:16 PM 8/27/2009, you wrote:
>> <frank.goodnight@att.net>
>>
>> Hi Jim,
>>
>> My Firestar has very loose hinge joints, If i tighten the nut up more
>> one more cotter key hole it makes the assy too tight and I can't fold
>> the wings without tearing something up. I've thought about making
>> some brass shims.as I fold every time I fly. All that slack can't be
>> good for the bolt or fitting. Glad you brought it to mind I'll
>> have to
>> move fixing it to the top of my To Do List . If I didn't have to fold
>> I would just tighten
>> the nut, shimming as necessary.
>> Glad to hear your HKS is doing good. Mine has over 80 almost trouble
>> free hrs.
>>
>> Frank Goodnight
>> Firestar2
>> HKS
>> Brownsville, TX
>> On Aug 27, 2009, at 11:20 AM, Jimmy Young wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Dear Kolb gang,
>>>
>>>
>>> I've got a question about my rear wing U-joint connection. If the
>>> U- joint has some play in it, is the correct fix to simply
>>> tighten the
>>> castle nut that's inside the joint enough to take out the play? I've
>>> got one that is nice & firm with no play, and the other has maybe
>>> 3/16" of slop in it. I believe it's been that way since I've owned
>>> the plane, but just noticed it this week when I grabbed the leading
>>> edge near the root rib and shook the wing a bit. There is a bit of
>>> space between the back of the U-joint and the square tube it is
>>> mounted to which is causing the play, so I'm assuming tightening
>>> that nut down some solves the problem, just want some confirmation
>>> please.
>>>
>>> By the way, the HKS is running great, got about 22 hrs on it now,
>>> plenty of power.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Jimmy Y
>>> FS II, 355 hrs AF, 22 hrs on HKS
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Jimmy Young
>>> FS II, HKS 700
>>> N7043P
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=259960#259960
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> 08/27/09 08:11:00
>
>
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At 10:42 AM 8/27/09 -0700, you wrote:
>
>Very good post Jack, and exactly what I have been saying about wingtips in
this thread all along.
>
Mike,
This list is about floating ideas and discussing their merits. We can only
do this by sending these little packets of electrons through the Internet
medium. Most on this list float out ideas and realize nor expect that
everyone is going to agree with them 100% of the time. Better yet, they do
not expect that level of acceptance. What a dull place this list would be
if everyone agreed with each other. It is unrealistic to expect that one
solution will fit all situations and/or condition. Most on the list realize
that it is the reader who decides what is of value to them. I assume they
filter the information as to how it fits their own needs, desires and
experiences.
I do not want to be part of a personal "them or us". This list has to fit
all of us. So back off and re join the list as fellow who recognizes others
on the list that have something to contribute. If you don't agree with what
is written, then respond with "have you considered" etc rather than making
judge mental statements that have nothing to do with Kolb. Please lighten
up. Compose your posts, read them and think "Would my mom or dad be proud
of this one?" If not, don't send it. I am in my early 70's and I still use
this approach. It is a way I can vent, not send it, and not make more of a
fool of my self on the list.
I don't mind you saying it was a good post, but I don't want to have it used
to bushwhack some one else. If you want attack, attack ideas and broaden
the discussion. Nothing said on the list is going to prevent you from doing
what you want with your plane or how you fly it. Give others the same
freedom.
I have thought about it, and I believe my mom and dad would be proud and so
I am going to send this to the list.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
do not archive
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Subject: | Re: Wing U-joint |
At 09:20 AM 8/27/09 -0700, you wrote:
>I've got a question about my rear wing U-joint connection. If the U-joint
has some play in it, is the correct fix to simply tighten the castle nut
that's inside the joint enough to take out the play? I've got one that is
nice & firm with no play, and the other has maybe 3/16" of slop in it. I
believe it's been that way since I've owned the plane, but just noticed it
this week when I grabbed the leading edge near the root rib and shook the
wing a bit. There is a bit of space between the back of the U-joint and the
square tube it is mounted to which is causing the play, so I'm assuming
tightening that nut down some solves the problem, just want some
confirmation please.
>
Jimmy,
I removed all play from the U-joints by drilling out the holes and bushing
them to get good bearing surfaces for the pins/bolts. To take the slop out
of the hole for the cage swivel bolt, I shimmed the bolt to fit the hole and
then used a couple of greased "O"rings as compression springs and a washer,
so that I could tighten the nut and put the whole joint in compression.
With this scheme one does not have to loosen the nut to fold the wings in
order to get rid of all slop in the joint. How it was done can be seen at:
http://jackbhart.com/firefly/firefly128.html
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
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Subject: | Re: Wing U-joint |
You say something might be broke ???
First post , after your question sez ..."Cotter Pin"
Have you looked at it ???
I hope it's there.... But 3/16"... sounds like it's gone...
Gotta Fly...
Mike & "Jaz" in Mn
.
.
JP-KMA
.
.
.
--------
.
.
.
.
.
Do Not Archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=260081#260081
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Subject: | Re: Gang Mentality, And A Few driving many away from Kolb List |
JetPilot/Mike and Kolb List regulars,
My name is Geoff Thistlethwaite and have been receiving (in digest form)and reading
this list for quite some years...some of you long time listers may remember
my questions to the list way back when I was building my Firestar II circa
1996 to 99...
I rarely post as there are those that usually get an answer posted before I do.
Before I write what I'm about to I'd like to first thank ALL who post here on a
continuing basis...you folks have over the years made this list informative and
fun for me to read.
Please take what I'm about to write as constructive criticism.
JetPilot/Mike, you have provided very much good and educational info on this forum,
I'm glad you do post here and I hope you don't leave.
However, there is a tendency on your part to have a "chip on your shoulder" attitude.
You seem to take anything less than total agreement with whatever you post
very personally. If, for instance, someone doesn't buy and install the same
type of fuel filter on their aircraft as you have recommended then that is their
decision to make. It only throws fuel on the fire when you berate them for
not following your advice. Perhaps before hitting send you should take a good
look at whatever you have written and check to see that it passes the John
Hauk "system" of posting - ie "This is how and why I did/would do it but you should
make your own decision on what you want to do with your aircraft"
As to the other members of the list that seem to be unable to let almost any of
JetPilot/Mike's comments/advice pass without "jumping into the fray" I gotta
say JetPilot/Mike is right that this is a dis-service to the rest of us on the
list. If you disagree, fine, state your factual reasons for disagreement and
leave it at that. Personal insults do the rest of us no good. I have left several
other lists, both aviation and pro-audio, because the bickering became so
prevalent that the good info gets lost in the signal-to-noise ratio. I'd hate
for that to happen to this good source of info/entertainment on wonderful aircraft.
Thanks for your attention,
Geoff Thistlethwaite
Firestar II (in rebuild, soon)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=260092#260092
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Subject: | Re: Wing U-joint |
I was mindful , when I suggested that the bolt could ground , that
the washer could also be ground...belt sander works well... that
said...I also know that the cadmium plating on the drag spar attach
bolt ,u joint assy, likely has been diminished by melting when the
bolt was welded to the square tube cross member... Likely some lube
is in order... :-)
Welding a cadmium plated anything is hazardous...It melts at about
600 deg. F.. just about as bad as Berillum if inhaled... Herb
At 03:56 PM 8/27/2009, you wrote:
>
>
> > Pull the nut and grind its back side in a trial and error manner
>>til you get the desired result...Herb
>
>
>Might work for Herb, but not for me.
>
>Like I mentioned earlier today, there are thick, 1/16" washers and
>thin, 1/32" washers, AN type available to do the job.
>
>I'll use washers the get the correct fit, before grinding off the
>protective cad plating on the nut.
>
>john h
>mkIII
>
>
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>08/27/09 08:11:00
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Subject: | Clearview fuel filters on eBay |
These appear to be the real deal, although I haven't bought one to make
sure. $12.95 includes 3 extra filters and gaskets and free shipping. Worth a
look if you're in need of a fuel filter.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-FILTER-RETRO-CHROME-GLASS-FREE-SHIPPING_W0QQitemZ220445667683QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item335395f163&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245#ht_6692wt_868
Rick Girard
do not archive
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Subject: | Re: Clearview fuel filters on eBay |
40 micron element...good enough?? Herb
$8.99 with a google search...
At 09:33 PM 8/27/2009, you wrote:
>These appear to be the real deal, although I haven't bought one to
>make sure. $12.95 includes 3 extra filters and gaskets and free
>shipping. Worth a look if you're in need of a fuel filter.
>
><http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-FILTER-RETRO-CHROME-GLASS-FREE-SHIPPING_W0QQitemZ220445667683QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item335395f163&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245#ht_6692wt_868>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-FILTER-RETRO-CHROME-GLASS-FREE-SHIPPING_W0QQitemZ220445667683QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item335395f163&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245#ht_6692wt_868
>
>Rick Girard
>do not archive
>
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Very good Jack. My pop would be 106 now if he was still walking.
Examples of writing style that offends would be: "only an idiot
would...."
"you would have to be a moron...."
You may get the drift.
BB
On 27, Aug 2009, at 7:57 PM, Jack B. Hart wrote:
> <jbhart@onlyinternet.net>
>
> At 10:42 AM 8/27/09 -0700, you wrote:
>>
>> Very good post Jack, and exactly what I have been saying about
>> wingtips in
> this thread all along.
>>
>
> Mike,
>
> This list is about floating ideas and discussing their merits. We
> can only
> do this by sending these little packets of electrons through the
> Internet
> medium. Most on this list float out ideas and realize nor expect that
> everyone is going to agree with them 100% of the time. Better yet,
> they do
> not expect that level of acceptance. What a dull place this list
> would be
> if everyone agreed with each other. It is unrealistic to expect
> that one
> solution will fit all situations and/or condition. Most on the list
> realize
> that it is the reader who decides what is of value to them. I
> assume they
> filter the information as to how it fits their own needs, desires and
> experiences.
>
> I do not want to be part of a personal "them or us". This list has
> to fit
> all of us. So back off and re join the list as fellow who
> recognizes others
> on the list that have something to contribute. If you don't agree
> with what
> is written, then respond with "have you considered" etc rather than
> making
> judge mental statements that have nothing to do with Kolb. Please
> lighten
> up. Compose your posts, read them and think "Would my mom or dad
> be proud
> of this one?" If not, don't send it. I am in my early 70's and I
> still use
> this approach. It is a way I can vent, not send it, and not make
> more of a
> fool of my self on the list.
>
> I don't mind you saying it was a good post, but I don't want to
> have it used
> to bushwhack some one else. If you want attack, attack ideas and
> broaden
> the discussion. Nothing said on the list is going to prevent you
> from doing
> what you want with your plane or how you fly it. Give others the same
> freedom.
>
> I have thought about it, and I believe my mom and dad would be
> proud and so
> I am going to send this to the list.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Winchester, IN
>
> do not archive
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Clearview fuel filters on eBay |
woops
does not include the extra elements at that price.. Herb
At 09:51 PM 8/27/2009, you wrote:
>40 micron element...good enough?? Herb
>
>$8.99 with a google search...
>
>At 09:33 PM 8/27/2009, you wrote:
>>These appear to be the real deal, although I haven't bought one to
>>make sure. $12.95 includes 3 extra filters and gaskets and free
>>shipping. Worth a look if you're in need of a fuel filter.
>>
>><http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-FILTER-RETRO-CHROME-GLASS-FREE-SHIPPING_W0QQitemZ220445667683QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item335395f163&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245#ht_6692wt_868>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-FILTER-RETRO-CHROME-GLASS-FREE-SHIPPING_W0QQitemZ220445667683QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item335395f163&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245#ht_6692wt_868
>>
>>
>>Rick Girard
>>do not archive
>
>
><http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
><http://www.matronics.com/contribution>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>08/27/09 08:11:00
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Subject: | Re: Clearview fuel filters on eBay |
Herb, I was looking at the construction. These don't appear to be the cheap
chicom copies.
Rick
do not archive
On Thu, Aug 27, 2009 at 9:51 PM, Herb <herbgh@nctc.com> wrote:
> 40 micron element...good enough?? Herb
>
> $8.99 with a google search...
>
>
> At 09:33 PM 8/27/2009, you wrote:
>
> These appear to be the real deal, although I haven't bought one to make
> sure. $12.95 includes 3 extra filters and gaskets and free shipping. Worth a
> look if you're in need of a fuel filter.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-FILTER-RETRO-CHROME-GLASS-FREE-SHIPPING_W0QQitemZ220445667683QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item335395f163&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245#ht_6692wt_868
>
> Rick Girard
> do not archive
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Wing U-joint |
In a message dated 8/27/2009 12:22:03 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jdy100@comcast.net writes:
I've got a question about my rear wing U-joint connection. If the U-joint
has some play in it, is the correct fix to simply tighten the castle nut
that's inside the joint enough to take out the play? I've got one that is
nice & firm with no play, and the other has maybe 3/16" of slop in it. I
believe it's been that way since I've owned the plane, but just noticed it this
week when I grabbed the leading edge near the root rib and shook the wing a
bit. There is a bit of space between the back of the U-joint and the square
tube it is mounted to which is causing the play, so I'm assuming
tightening that nut down some solves the problem, just want some confirmation
please.
Jimmy,
Here is my experience with the U-joints:
On my plans & instructions, it called for the castle nut to be tightened
up just enough to allow the fitting to rotate when folding the wings, then
install a cotter pin. But as others have mentioned, the cotter hole does
not always line up, so I had to back off on the nut some, which allowed some
slight slop, although not enough to cause any harm. A buddy of mine had an
idea to use a self locking nut, instead of the castle nut and cotter pin,
and we both installed those type nuts on our FireStars. We fold/unfold our
wings every time we fly and the self locking nut does not loosen.
On one of my U-joints, the large hole which fits onto the bolt end was
supplied predrilled, slightly oversize, and that allowed a slight amount of
slop, but again it was not enough to be a problem. The instructions also say
to lube it annually.
Someone mentioned grinding off the back side of the nut, or to use
different thickness washers to get a better fit so the cotter pin will fit into
the hole with the nut at the tightness desired.
I have used both of these ideas to remove play from the control fittings.
Sometimes I could not get the desired tightness even when changing
washers. That's when I used the grinding of the nut method. However, rather
than
grinding and getting the nut crooked, I place the nut on a flat file and
slide it back and forth, removing some metal, but keeping it flat. It's
true that it does remove the cadium plating, but then I grease it well and so
far no rust. It doesn't take much metal removal to make the holes line
up. That's how I did it.
Bill Varnes
1994 Original Kolb FireStar
500+ hours
Audubon NJ
Message 34
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Subject: | Re: Clearview fuel filters on eBay |
I'm confused regarding these clear screw together filters. In the
past I have read on more than this list not to use them, stay away
from them, to as much as your sure to crash and burn more or
less. Apparently there are different brands and quality.
The question then becomes how to determine which is which. I was
totally caught off guard and surprised when I read John Hauck was
using them on the flights he has taken. I've read about more than a
single incidence of these things coming unscrewed. Just recently
the glass actually being plastic and deforming. John H, do you have
a brand name and source for the ones your using. My self the Fram G1
has worked well for me, I think I will stay with it. Maybe the G1
will not support the flow rate you require for your big 4-stroke
Rotax engine, but they have worked fine for me and my 447.
jerb
At 07:33 PM 8/27/2009, you wrote:
>These appear to be the real deal, although I haven't bought one to
>make sure. $12.95 includes 3 extra filters and gaskets and free
>shipping. Worth a look if you're in need of a fuel filter.
>
><http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-FILTER-RETRO-CHROME-GLASS-FREE-SHIPPING_W0QQitemZ220445667683QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item335395f163&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245#ht_6692wt_868>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-FILTER-RETRO-CHROME-GLASS-FREE-SHIPPING_W0QQitemZ220445667683QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item335395f163&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245#ht_6692wt_868
>
>Rick Girard
>do not archive
>
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