Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:04 AM - Re: Grandrapids EIS or others. (albertakolbmk3)
2. 11:04 AM - Re: An Older but Good Basic GPS (no aviation data base) (jerb)
3. 11:18 AM - Re: Re: Gas line (jerb)
4. 11:23 AM - Re: Re: Gas line (jerb)
5. 11:44 AM - Re: Re: Gas line (jerb)
6. 02:14 PM - Re: Re: Vortex Generators (pj.ladd)
7. 02:24 PM - Re: man. speedA (pj.ladd)
8. 02:31 PM - Re: Vortex Generators (Thom Riddle)
9. 03:54 PM - Re: Re: Grandr Rapids EIS or others. (jerb)
10. 04:36 PM - Re: Grandrapids EIS or others. (jerb)
11. 04:51 PM - Re: An Older but Good Basic GPS (no aviation data base) (russ kinne)
12. 04:54 PM - Re: Re: Vortex Generators (John Hauck)
13. 05:21 PM - Re: Help please - can't take off (jerb)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Grandrapids EIS or others. |
Anyone out there with a stratomaster? The grandrapids eis seems to be very popular.
--------
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263950#263950
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: An Older but Good Basic GPS (no aviation data base) |
For folks needing a cheap GPS the Magellan 315 replaced by the 320 is
a great little unit if you don't mind entering in way points, as it
does not have a aviation data base. I sat down with mine one evening
and entered way point info for the airports in our area using data
off AirNav http://www.airnav.com/airports/ and
AeroPlanner.com http://www.aeroplanner.com/ . I paid about $100
for mine new several years ago but you can pick them up cheap on
eBay. There were folks selling them new in the box. They have a
very nice display, with several different screens, one with very
large text (nice), plus they lock on quick and work great. Wish I
could say that about my $800+ piece of junk Garmin 90.
jerb
Message 3
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There is blue tubing and then there is the tubing
produced by Bing - available from Aircraft
Spruce. Get the Bing stuff, cost more but is
less affected by fuel and oil we use. Note if it
is the actual Bing stuff it will have Bing
printed on it every foot or so. The plain blue
stuff hardens, often turns green over time and
becomes brittle where it can easily break and
does. Don't use it, use the Bing product.
jerb
At 02:36 PM 9/17/2009, you wrote:
>
>17sep09
>Bill S.,
>
>Im no help on the black fuel line, but
>recently Ive experienced a failure with the blue urethane...
>
>Nearly two years ago I had to park my FireFly
>and temporally relocate from Maui to Oahu. (No,
>I wasn't in jail this time...) Shortly before
>parking the plane I had replaced the fuel lines
>with the blue urethane line. The catalog said...
>"Absolutely will not harden, crack, or become
>brittle with age." After my last flight I did a
>somewhat incomplete job of draining the fuel.
>
>Two weeks ago I got back to the plane and
>started to get her back to air worthiness.
>
>In places where the fuel line was protected from
>the sun everything appeared to be OK. In
>unprotected areas, the blue had completely faded
>from the side of the line that faced the sun. In
>low places where fuel residue had gathered, the
>line was shot full of hairline cracks. (None appeared to be leaking...)
>
>Inside the fuel tank I had used a two-inch piece
>of the blue urethane to connect the in-tank
>filter to the fuel pick-up tube. This piece of
>fuel line had completely come apart. It was in a
>dozen little blue pieces on the bottom of the
>tank. The little pieces would turn into a gritty
>blue jelly when given a squeeze.
>
>I have elected to replace the blue line with the
>yellow tygothane... I note that the catalog says
>it will... "Absolutely will not harden, crack,
>or become brittle with age." And it cost more
>than the blue, so it's gotta be better... It is
>softer than the blue and has a "snakey" feel. I like it already.
>
>Twice, I have seen unidentified bits of detris
>being sucked up towards the impulse pump in time
>to shut the engine down. This is why I have not
>migrated to the black fuel line.
>
>You can bet that when the yellow line hardens,
>cracks, or becomes brittle with age, I'll be back to whine about it.
>
>Almost forgot... Our fuel is 10% alcohol... Surprise, Surprise!!!
>
>Aloha
>
>--------
>Henry
>Firefly Five-Charlie-Bravo
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263584#263584
>
>
Message 4
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I've used the Tygon tubing in the past, it took a little longer than
the plain blue (non-Bing product) but it hardened over time also. I
have totally gone over to the blue Bing tuning for my fuel and primer
lines and am very pleased with it. The Bing is sold by Aircraft Spruce.
jerb
At 03:24 PM 9/17/2009, you wrote:
>
>At 06:09 PM 9/17/2009, william sullivan wrote:
>> Henry- My black neoprene line was exposed to sun while sitting
>> in the yard. I don't think it was affected by it, but you never
>> know. I was going to use the yellow Tygothane, but I was
>> concerned that it would collapse under suction. I still wonder if
>> it's the alcohol. If alcohol makes me soft and mushy, maybe it
>> does the same to neoprene.
>
>I have used the yellow Tygon on my PPG's, but the blue line is
>harder, less susceptible to collapse, and lasts longer. You still
>need to replace it every couple of years. I think it's the sunlight
>(UV) that does most of the damage.
>
>The yellow Tygon, which they market as "fuel and lubricant tubing",
>is a vinyl product. Tygothane is something different, a
>polyurethane product, and according to Tygon is NOT suitable for fuel.
>
>There are other yellow "fuel" tubings out there... stay away,
>they're cheaper than genuine Tygon and don't last nearly as long.
>
>I know others prefer the black neoprene but I still like to see
>what's inside (or not inside) my fuel lines.
>
>-Dana
>--
> The gene pool could use a little chlorine.
>
>
Message 5
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You know replacing the flex tubing with aluminum tubing for most of
the run might not be a bad idea. When Kolb shipped my kit they sent
the wrong wall thickness tube, They said it would cost more to return
it than it was worth so told me to keep it and reshipped the correct
material. That tubing might work just fine. Got to think about this
and look things over.
jerb
At 06:35 AM 9/18/2009, you wrote:
>
>when I built my firestar I used a pice of the leftover aluminum
>tubeing for most of my fuel line
>and only used a short piece of the plastic that kolb provided to make
>the conection at the
>very ends. I don"t know if that was a good idea or not. At my yearly
>condition insp. I changed
>to black fuel line for marine use it is supposed to be alcohol
>resistant. Next time I am thinking
>about going to copper air conditioning tube, I also don"t if that is a
>good idea.
>Frank Goodnight
>Firestar 2
>Brownsville , Tex
>On Sep 17, 2009, at 5:24 PM, Dana Hague wrote:
>
>>
>>At 06:09 PM 9/17/2009, william sullivan wrote:
>>> Henry- My black neoprene line was exposed to sun while sitting in
>>>the yard. I don't think it was affected by it, but you never
>>>know. I was going to use the yellow Tygothane, but I was concerned
>>>that it would collapse under suction. I still wonder if it's the
>>>alcohol. If alcohol makes me soft and mushy, maybe it does the
>>>same to neoprene.
>>
>>I have used the yellow Tygon on my PPG's, but the blue line is
>>harder, less susceptible to collapse, and lasts longer. You still
>>need to replace it every couple of years. I think it's the sunlight
>>(UV) that does most of the damage.
>>
>>The yellow Tygon, which they market as "fuel and lubricant tubing",
>>is a vinyl product. Tygothane is something different, a
>>polyurethane product, and according to Tygon is NOT suitable for fuel.
>>
>>There are other yellow "fuel" tubings out there... stay away,
>>they're cheaper than genuine Tygon and don't last nearly as long.
>>
>>I know others prefer the black neoprene but I still like to see
>>what's inside (or not inside) my fuel lines.
>>
>>-Dana
>>--
>>The gene pool could use a little chlorine.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Vortex Generators |
Before the VGs stall with 1/2 flaps was 42-43 mph IAS.>>
Hi Thom,
been to a battle of Britain airshow today. Spitfire, Hurricane, Lancaster
etc. Among the rest of the show was the Antonov Biplane. The biggest single
engined biplane in the world and it featured a very slow fly past.
The commentator read from the pilots handling notes which said. In case of
engine failure at night or in bad visib ility pull the stick right back and
keep the wings level. The speed will reduce to 20 mph and the plane will
descend in a level position at the speed of a personal parachute. Who needs
VG`s?
Incidentally another item was a glider airobatic show. The glider was tugged
up by a Pawnee, which is much used here for tugging but it did a straight
and level fly past while the glider did 10 rolls WHILE STILL ON TOW..
Incredible bit of flying.
Cheers
Pat
Message 7
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You could always ask for a wing seat>>
Hi Tony,
i can see myself flying down from 40,000 feet sitting on the main spar.
i remember a guy who landed about 3 miles from home during the war who
was the rear gunner in a Lanc which had been badly shot up and was
struggling to get back to base when the fuselage fell in half. The
gunner rode the rear turret down and got away with being fairly badly
banged up, but survived.
Cheers
Pat
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Vortex Generators |
Pat,
I've seen the Anotov Biplane fly too but not as slow as you mentioned. It is an
oddball airplane for sure but great at its intended mission.
Funny you should mention the bit about poor visibility. After doing the most recent
stall speed tests with VGs, one of the reasons I decided not to install VGs
under the horizontal stabilizer is that I realized that in just such a situation,
I could use the non-stalled full up elevator to get down slowly and relatively
safely, virtually blind. I hope to never need that but its a nice tool
to have in the bag. Of course I have a ballistic recovery chute too but once
you commit to the chute you are no longer a pilot. In the slow controlled descent,
say through an undercast, once you break out you can resume flying normally.
Can't do that with a BRS.
do not archive
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
Kolb Slingshot SS-021
Jabiru 2200A #1574
Tennessee Prop 64x34
A complex system that works is invariably found to have evolved from a simple system
that works.
- John Gaule
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264009#264009
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Grandr Rapids EIS or others. |
Yes Sandy is great person to work with. The fuel probes are of the
capacitance type and come in different lengths. When you order them
your going to need to know the approx. length you will need. Note,
from their original length they may only be cut back to a minimum
length and retain the ability to adjust them within the minimum and
full calibration range. They work great. Before you error cut
mounting holes for them to big be aware that the inside tank mounting
ring is made where it can be passed thru a smaller hole than you
first think is required. Some string may be used to hold it in
position during the installation. They work great.
jerb
At 09:58 PM 9/18/2009, you wrote:
>Your best bet is to call Grand Rapids, you will talk to Sandy who is
>so knowledgeable that several guys have proposed to her over the
>phone, including me. :-) She can fix you up with what ever you need.
>There are several sizes of senders, I used the 12 inch one with my stock tanks.
>Larry C
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <mailto:cheriebraun@xplornet.com>albertakolbmk3
>To: <mailto:kolb-list@matronics.com>kolb-list@matronics.com
>Sent: Friday, September 18, 2009 9:29 PM
>Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Grandrapids EIS or others.
>
><<mailto:cheriebraun@xplornet.com>cheriebraun@xplornet.com>
>
>That's exactly what I want to do... thanks for the info. What length
>does the sender come in and can it be cut down (I need about 22")...
>or is it a resistor swing type?
>
>[quote="lcottrell"]He is correct, and the Prince fuel sender is a
>good one, but there is only one aux wire on the two stroke EIS that
>will work as a fuel sender. I used two senders with my two stroke
>EIS by getting a double pole, double throw switch and wired the
>switch so that one direction read the front tank and the other
>direction read the back tank. I also had the tanks isolated and
>selected between them with a selector fuel valve, so that when you
>changed tanks you also changed the switch. It has worked quite well
>for me for more than 6 years.
> Larry C
>
> > ---
>
>
>--------
>Kolb MKIII C
>Rotax 582
>C Gearbox 3.00:1
>WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
><http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263774#263774>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263774#263774
>
>
>http://www.matronicp; via the Web
>href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>_p; generous
>bsp;
>href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c================
>
>
>----------
>- <http://www.avg.com>www.avg.com
>09/18/09 07:49:00
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Grandrapids EIS or others. |
Tony
Here is web site info for the EIS unit - note there are 2 stroke and
4 stroke models as well as 2 and 4 cylinder models.
http://www.grtavionics.com/product.aspx?productno=2
http://www.grtavionics.com/product.aspx?productno=2&featureno=8
http://www.grtavionics.com/product.aspx?productno=2&featureno=26
According to their web site info for the EIS-2002 (2-stroke, 2
cylinder model) it has two user configurable aux inputs, I would take
it these both can be used for fuel level sensors. You need to ask if
they remain available if you elect to have the altimeter/vertical
speed option or fuel flow option. It can be ordered with those
options. I have the fuel flow option on mine, works great. I use it
to cross check fuel remaining and my fuel level.
Check their warranty policy - its says a lot - I have my second unit
and like the first (on another plane) it has been rock solid. I am a
very happy user of their product. My next plane will also have one
of their units..
Regards,
jerb
At 09:13 AM 9/18/2009, you wrote:
>
>For those of you with the grandrapids eis for rotax 2 cycles,
>
>what options do you have?
>can the two aux. inputs be used for fuel level?
>anyone using the fuel flow option, altimeter?
>
>I have two 45 litre aluminum tanks that only have a clear fuel line
>to read the level. They are behind the passenger seat and very hard
>to see. I would like to put a skysport fuel sending unit in each one
>but before I buy a fuel guage as well I would like to know if the
>eis can read fuel level. I know alot of people like the standard
>needle guages but I find them hard to read (accurately). I've
>decided to replace them with an eis (not sure what one yet). I find
>that with the guages that I have, I am guessing as to what it is
>reading because the needle travel is so smalll.I would much prefer a
>digital number especially for the more critical readings.
>
>Anyone else with a different eis such as a stratomaster please don't
>hesitate to comment on your unit.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tony
>
>--------
>Kolb MKIII C
>Rotax 582
>C Gearbox 3.00:1
>WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263699#263699
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: An Older but Good Basic GPS (no aviation data base) |
I echo Jerb's praise of the Magellan GPS's. I've had 4 (5?), used
mostly on the sea, and they've been reliable, fast, easy to use,
waterproof and they FLOAT! -- when you realize that most everything
goes overboard at one time or another, that's a good feature.
Apparently Garmin has forced Magellan out of the market now; but
they're great little units
Russ K
Do not archive
On Sep 20, 2009, at 1:58 PM, jerb wrote:
>
> For folks needing a cheap GPS the Magellan 315 replaced by the 320
> is a great little unit if you don't mind entering in way points, as
> it does not have a aviation data base. I sat down with mine one
> evening and entered way point info for the airports in our area
> using data off AirNav http://www.airnav.com/airports/ and
> AeroPlanner.com http://www.aeroplanner.com/ . I paid about $100
> for mine new several years ago but you can pick them up cheap on
> eBay. There were folks selling them new in the box. They have a
> very nice display, with several different screens, one with very
> large text (nice), plus they lock on quick and work great. Wish I
> could say that about my $800+ piece of junk Garmin 90.
> jerb
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Vortex Generators |
I could use the non-stalled full up elevator to get down slowly and
relatively safely, virtually blind.
In the slow controlled descent, say through an undercast, once you break out
you can resume flying normally. Can't do that with a BRS.
>
> Thom Riddle
Thom R/Gang:
That is a wonderful idea.
How do you intend to keep the wings level once you lose the horizon?
The decent rate in a mush in my mkIII is about 2,000 fpm. Not slow by any
means when the standard rate of climb and decent during instrument flight in
an Army rotary wing aircraft was 500 fpm, when I was still flying them.
I think I'll keep out of clouds and decend visually. I haven't been
instrument rated in over 33 years and my Kolb doesn't do well partial panel.
john h
mkIII
Rock House, Oregon
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Help please - can't take off |
When you took off the exhaust & intake manifolds did you by chance
peek at the rings - you can take a solid object like a wooden dowel
rod and push on the rings lightly (moderate pressure there guy) and
see if they compress into the groove slightly. If you can it shows
the rings groves are not to carboned up.
Hate to go here but the first thing you need to determine if your
running rich or lean - getting enough fuel or to much. Tie the tail
down, warm the engine up and then do a short full throttle run and
pull the plugs and observe if there wet or dry and color. If you
have a hand primer a second thing you can do while running is give it
a small shot of prime and note what the affect is - does it bog the
engine down indicating its rich or does the engine RPM pickup
indicating it lean. Run it a bit afterwards to clear the plugs.
What are your EGT temps (note cylinder temps too) when you run up the engine.
Do your an enricher (choke) on your carb(s), if so do you have a boot
over the cables where they enter the carb, if you don't use an
enricher, do you have a cap over the port that sticks up out of the carb?
Do you have a squeeze primer bulb in the supply line? The ball
sticks in them things some times causing a fuel starvation issue. If
you have one do you have a by-pass around it in case that happens.
How old is your fuel pump?
Are you running old gas? How old? Is it mixed right?
What are you using in the way of tubing for the pulse line going
between the engine pulse port and the fuel pump?
(Is it regular fuel line tubing or the heavy wall tubing - if your
using regular fuel line it can soften the pulse and weaken the flow
to the fuel pump.)
Does you fuel pump have an oil drain hole - what is the position of
the hole - is it on the lower side where it can drain? You can get a
little oil blown out of the pulse port - it can collect in the fuel
pump and can't drain if the pump is in the wrong position.
Did you make any changes that you can recall just before this problem
started - what had you worked on or made any changes to taken off or
adjusted the prop.
jerb
At 06:51 PM 9/19/2009, you wrote:
>
>At 10:59 AM 9/19/09 -0700, you wrote:
> <cristalclearwaters@gmail.com>
> >
>
>Cristal,
>
>Since this has been a slow onset, it may be caused by carbon build up under
>the rings. When was the last time the engine was
>decarbed?
>
>You have mentioned that one choker seal was bad and one cylinder was running
>rich. What happens is the carbon or coke can build up under the ring. This
>prevents the ring from expanding back into the slot. As the engine runs at
>higher speed, the ring, piston and cylinder all heat up. The aluminum
>piston expands faster than the cast iron cylinder. With the carbon under
>the ring the steel ring cannot move deeper into the slot and the ring is
>forced out against the cylinder. If the carbon is severe enough this force
>will become high enough (drag) to prevent the engine from running
>faster.
>
>It might be best to pull the heads and cylinders, and to check for carbon
>under the rings. If you do not find any all well and good. If you do you
>may prevent scoring the piston and cylinder.
>
>FWIW
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Winchester, IN
>
>
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