Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:10 AM - Re: OAT sensor location (albertakolbmk3)
2. 02:15 AM - Best way to cut lexan (albertakolbmk3)
3. 02:34 AM - Re: Re: OAT sensor location (Richard Girard)
4. 02:54 AM - Re: Best way to cut lexan (Richard Girard)
5. 03:03 AM - Re: Bing54 / Max height btw Fuel tank and Mikuni fuel pump (LageB)
6. 03:25 AM - Re: Best way to cut lexan (sada)
7. 05:14 AM - Re: Aeroshell Sport Plus 4 (lucien)
8. 07:15 AM - Re: Best way to cut lexan (Mike Welch)
9. 07:20 AM - Re: Aeroshell Sport Plus 4 (Roger Lee)
10. 07:39 AM - Re: Best way to cut lexan (Herb)
11. 07:49 AM - Re: Best way to cut lexan (John Hauck)
12. 08:23 AM - Re: Best way to cut lexan (Richard & Martha Neilsen)
13. 10:22 AM - Fuel system layout (albertakolbmk3)
14. 10:37 AM - Rotax mag/starter issue (albertakolbmk3)
15. 10:45 AM - Re: Re: OAT sensor location (Dana Hague)
16. 10:45 AM - Re: Fuel system layout (Dana Hague)
17. 10:56 AM - Re: How often do you rebuild your Mikuni Fuel pump? (Ralph B)
18. 11:35 AM - Re: Pilot Cert Expiring ( Paper ) March 2010 (planecrazzzy)
19. 01:00 PM - Re: Fuel system layout (Richard Girard)
20. 03:55 PM - Re: Fuel system layout (frank.goodnight)
21. 04:48 PM - Re: Fuel system layout (Mike Welch)
22. 05:19 PM - Re: Fuel system layout (Dana Hague)
23. 05:35 PM - Re: Fuel system layout (frank.goodnight)
24. 05:46 PM - Re: Fuel system layout (frank.goodnight)
25. 06:04 PM - Re: Fuel system layout (John Hauck)
26. 06:12 PM - Re: Fuel system layout (Dana Hague)
27. 06:12 PM - Re: Fuel system layout (John Hauck)
28. 06:12 PM - Re: Fuel system layout (frank.goodnight)
29. 06:28 PM - Re: Fuel system layout (albertakolbmk3)
30. 08:11 PM - Re: Best way to cut lexan (whiskeyvictor36@aol.com)
31. 08:45 PM - Re: Fuel system layout (Mike Welch)
32. 08:58 PM - Re: Flying the lazy river on Youtube (David Kulp)
33. 09:08 PM - Re: Flying the lazy river on Youtube (John Hauck)
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| Subject: | Re: OAT sensor location |
Rick, could you elaborate on that a little more. Not sure what you mean when you
say an equivalent temperature on exposed skin. The probe is about 1 inch long
and about 1/4" diameter. I have an existing hole just behind the passenger
door. I was going to stick it through there and silicone it in. It would protrude
about 1 inch.
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
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| Subject: | Best way to cut lexan |
What is the best way to cut lexan. Knife, bandsaw, jigsaw. I'm just about ready
to to start cutting my new lexan... never done it before. Any advice would be
appreciated.
Tony
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
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| Subject: | Re: OAT sensor location |
>From Wikipedia: *Wind chill* is the apparent
temperature<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Felt_air_temperature> felt
on exposed skin <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skin> due to wind.
http://www.nws.noaa.gov/om/windchill/
<http://www.nws.noaa.gov/om/windchill/>Notice the various caveats about how
the wind chill is determined, all relating to human skin. If your
thermometer is dry, i.e. nothing to carry heat away, it does not know if the
wind is blowing or not. Notice also the caveat about sunlight, this does
relate to your thermometer since, like skin, the material the probe is made
of will absorb radiant energy and that will effect the reading it displays.
Rick Girard
On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 4:10 AM, albertakolbmk3 <cheriebraun@xplornet.com>wrote:
> cheriebraun@xplornet.com>
>
> Rick, could you elaborate on that a little more. Not sure what you mean
> when you say an equivalent temperature on exposed skin. The probe is about 1
> inch long and about 1/4" diameter. I have an existing hole just behind the
> passenger door. I was going to stick it through there and silicone it in. It
> would protrude about 1 inch.
>
> --------
> Tony B.
>
> Kolb MKIII C
> Rotax 582
> C Gearbox 3.00:1
> WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282408#282408
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut lexan |
>From GE:
Lexan=AE polycarbonate sheet products can be cut
and sawn easily and accurately using standard
workshop equipment. Circular saws, band saws,
jig saws and common hacksaws can all be used
successfully. However, certain important guide-lines
should be followed. General guide-lines are listed
below with specific recommendations outlined in
each cutting section.
- The sheet must always be securely clamped
to avoid undesirable vibration and rough cut
edges.
- All tools should be set for cutting plastics with
fine toothed panel blades.
- The protective masking should be left on the
sheet to prevent scratching and other surface
damage.
- When finishing the edges of all Lexan sheet
products should be clean and free of notches.
- If possible swarf and dust build-up should be
blown away with a compressed air supply.
NOTE: Lexan is often used as a generic term. It is not, it's a specific
formula of polycarbonate, which IS the generic. Whatever you buy, if it
doesn't say Lexan on the covering paper, get that manufacturers cutting
recommendations as some formulations are more brittle than others.
Rick Girard
On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 4:15 AM, albertakolbmk3 <cheriebraun@xplornet.com>w
rote:
> cheriebraun@xplornet.com>
>
> What is the best way to cut lexan. Knife, bandsaw, jigsaw. I'm just about
> ready to to start cutting my new lexan... never done it before. Any advic
e
> would be appreciated.
>
> Tony
>
> --------
> Tony B.
>
> Kolb MKIII C
> Rotax 582
> C Gearbox 3.00:1
> WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282410#282410
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Bing54 / Max height btw Fuel tank and Mikuni fuel pump |
Dana wrote:
>
> If the electric pump creates a greater pressure than the pulse pump can, the
inlet check valve will never close at all, and the fuel pressure in the pump
chamber will push back on the diaphragm so that it never moves, and it's as if
the pulse pump didn't exist.
>
> Either way, the pressures don't add.
> ....
Dana, I am not quoting your complete explanations as above, I just want to say..
absolutely fabulous! I have vacuumed the net on Mikuni-El.Pump interaction
phenomena, but I have never seen this explained before. It makes perfect sense
to me. For many Rotax (& Kolb) users (incl Rotax themselves as seems?) it must
be rather valuable information that pump pressures would not add in case of
series connection. For example in my case, I was just about to select booster
pump "just to help" the Mikuni - assuming pressures would be added. But, now
I clearly understand that, if the original problem is too high lifting height,
-then, it is vital that the electric Pump (intalled prior Mikuni) MUST have
pressure sufficient, by itself, to cope with full requirement of the double Bings.
Of course it is good thing for the redundancy as well. May I assume, also,
that this fact eliminates need of pressure reducers, as long
as electric pump is within limit of Bing 54 (max 7Psi) ?
Again thanks a lot for kind patience to all Kolb friends
LageB
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut lexan |
Hi Kolbers
Just adds my fragment.
Ultrasonic cutter also available with easy and clean way.
Here is Youtube demo.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QaejhHMbH0Y
And one of Ad.
http://www.nalex.co.jp/e-cutter.html
Really like a cake.
But counter is expensive.
On 2010/01/20, at 19:53, Richard Girard wrote:
> >=46rom GE:
> Lexan=AE polycarbonate sheet products can be cut
> and sawn easily and accurately using standard
> workshop equipment. Circular saws, band saws,
> jig saws and common hacksaws can all be used
> successfully. However, certain important guide-lines
> should be followed. General guide-lines are listed
> below with specific recommendations outlined in
> each cutting section.
> - The sheet must always be securely clamped
> to avoid undesirable vibration and rough cut
> edges.
> - All tools should be set for cutting plastics with
> fine toothed panel blades.
> - The protective masking should be left on the
> sheet to prevent scratching and other surface
> damage.
> - When finishing the edges of all Lexan sheet
> products should be clean and free of notches.
> - If possible swarf and dust build-up should be
> blown away with a compressed air supply.
>
> NOTE: Lexan is often used as a generic term. It is not, it's a
> specific formula of polycarbonate, which IS the generic. Whatever
> you buy, if it doesn't say Lexan on the covering paper, get that
> manufacturers cutting recommendations as some formulations are more
> brittle than others.
>
> Rick Girard
>
> On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 4:15 AM, albertakolbmk3
> <cheriebraun@xplornet.com> wrote:
> <cheriebraun@xplornet.com>
>
> What is the best way to cut lexan. Knife, bandsaw, jigsaw. I'm just
> about ready to to start cutting my new lexan... never done it
> before. Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Tony
>
> --------
> Tony B.
>
> Kolb MKIII C
> Rotax 582
> C Gearbox 3.00:1
> WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282410#282410
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Aeroshell Sport Plus 4 |
Oops, didn't mean to inadvertantly restart the oil war with my comments on the
Aeroshell.
I was only commenting that my results with it on the first oil change were at least
as good as I'd gotten with my other choice that I'd used before (Valvoline
synth blend) and not that it was better.
It should be noted that, as far as the API grading system is concerned, both the
valvoline and rotella oils actually exceed the Aeroshell (both of those are
at grade SM now I believe; aeroshell is SL). Go figure.
All far, far exceed the API grade required by Rotax (SG).
I'm agnostic about additives, the important things are the weight and the API service
grade (minus specific recommendations for or against a particular blend
by Rotax of course).
I flew a PPC for about 50 hours before having to sell it for space/moving out of
TX/financial reasons. They're great fun as long as there's no wind. A 10 to
20NM cross-country in a PPC is a magical experience. Again as long as there's
no wind - a PPC would be grounded virtually all the time here in northern NM.
As the planes get lighter and slower here, the flying season tends to get shorter
and shorter, a small window in the middle of winter. 912 class planes can
fly mostly year round plus or minus the bravery and skill of the pilot. Spring/summer
are good times for the plane to be down for maintenance, fall and winter
are magical especially for trips.
Still trying to get to Questa before the flying season starts to wind down - snowstorms
all this week and when the WX is good I'm at the office....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
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| Subject: | Best way to cut lexan |
> What is the best way to cut lexan. Knife=2C bandsaw=2C jigsaw. I'm just a
bout ready to to start cutting my new lexan... never done it before. Any ad
vice would be appreciated.
>
> Tony
Tony=2C
I cut Lexan with my handheld Makita grinder=2C with a 1/16" thick cut-off
blade. By using this method=2C the only thing that touches the surface is
just the blade. That way you don't risk scratching the Lexan's surface in
the cutting process (like with the base of the saw).
I find there is a "sweet spot" in the cutting speed. Too slow=2C and you
melt the Lexan=2C which leaves a LOT of cleanup with a handheld sander. T
oo fast=2C and the cut is quite rough. Again=2C more work with the sander.
By practicing on a scrap piece of Lexan=2C you'll see what I mean. Findi
ng the right speed to make the cut leaves just a small job of sanding clean
-up.
Undoubtedly=2C there are other ways to cut Lexan=2C but that method works
best for me.
Mike Welch
MkIII CX
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft=92s powerful SPAM protection.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Aeroshell Sport Plus 4 |
Our Fly-In at Page in Oct.14-18 is open to any one although 98% is LSA. We had
30 aircraft last year and expect more this year. We are always growing. We all
stay in a hotel Best Western Arizona Inn for $49 a night. Out meals are catered
at the Ranch House Grill. They close and give the entire restaurant to us.
We usually have 70 plus people. We are given a large ramp space at the Page airport
just for us. Most of the planes are Flight Design CT's, but we have RV's,
Rans, Husky, Sirrus, maybe a Cessna. We usually have out of the total maybe
5 other types of aircraft. We do fly-In breakfast in Bryce, we fly south over
the Grand Canyon. We all are very friendly not clicks or groups and everyone is
very helpful and considerate of the others. We change dinning tables at night
to meet people from around the country. It's a great time everyone always comes
back plus we continue to grow. I already have 40 rooms reserved at the Best
Western. We usually have 5-6 planes show up with only the pilot so there is
usually open seats. Lots of wives come. We do a lot of formation flying for some
great pictures and video. Weather is better than May because it's not so hot,
about 71-74F during the day and 50-55F at night. I have never been around a
nicer group of people.
We have another Fly-In May 13-16 at Columbia, CA. We have spot land contest, bomb
drop, BBQ's at the clubhouse, fly out breakfast, another fun trip. Again most
of these guys are LSA or experimental.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
520-574-1080
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut lexan |
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut lexan |
I use aviation tin snips. Works really easy on 1/16" polycarbonate. A
little tougher on 1/8". Finish edges with mill file and sand paper.
john h
mkIII
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut lexan |
I have also used tin snips with good success. I wouldn't recommend doing
this when the lexan is cold, its seems to get brittle. Again cold is a
relative term. Florida cold 50-60 might be fine. Michigan cold 0 degrees or
less you might have problems getting a good cut.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Best way to cut lexan
>
>
> I use aviation tin snips. Works really easy on 1/16" polycarbonate. A
> little tougher on 1/8". Finish edges with mill file and sand paper.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Fuel system layout |
Your opinions would be appreciated.
The original owner had a valve to switch between tanks I want to eliminate that.
Also, with it set up like this do I still need to use the primer bulb he has
installed. I have remote chokes. Just trying to work on the KISS principal.
Tony
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
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| Subject: | Rotax mag/starter issue |
Has anyone else heard of an issue with the mag switch being on the same switch
as the starter. I was told this by a friend. Something to do with there being
enough juice to arc across the contacts and engage the starter during flight.
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
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| Subject: | Re: OAT sensor location |
At 05:10 AM 1/20/2010, albertakolbmk3 wrote:
>... could you elaborate on that a little more. Not sure what you mean when
>you say an equivalent temperature on exposed skin.
Wind chill only applies when you're talking about the temperature of a body
that's hotter than the air... moving air draws heat away faster than still
air so it seems colder. There are also effects from evaporation of sweat.
A thermometer isn't heated internally, so it will be at the same
temperature as the air so there is no wind chill effect... in fact if it's
in fast moving air it will respond more quickly than if it was in still air.
I would mount the thermometer anywhere that it won't get bumped.
-Dana
--
I'm from the IRS. The government has spent all your tax money. Could we
please have some more?
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
At 01:21 PM 1/20/2010, albertakolbmk3 wrote:
>The original owner had a valve to switch between tanks I want to eliminate
>that. Also, with it set up like this do I still need to use the primer
>bulb he has installed. I have remote chokes. Just trying to work on the
>KISS principal.
If you have a battery to run the electric fuel pump, or if you have a
primer, then you don't need a squeeze bulb (primer bulbs are evil).
If you have oil injection on your 582, then I don't see the need for a fuel
selector valve. If you use premix, valves important if you ever mix right
in the fuel tank; you don't want any crossflow until the oil is thoroughly
mixed. I like individual on/off valves for each tank; normally you fly
with both open but you can shut one off if there's a reason to.
-Dana
--
I'm from the IRS. The government has spent all your tax money. Could we
please have some more?
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| Subject: | Re: How often do you rebuild your Mikuni Fuel pump? |
I have gone over 7 years without a pump replacement (rectangular). They are reliable
and this is a good thing. During the last 3 years, I switched to a round
Mikuni dual pump and tied the output lines together. I don't have any plans to
change it.
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar 447
N91493 E-AB
1000 hours
23 years flying it
Kolbra 912UL
N20386
2 years flying it
120 hrs
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| Subject: | Re: Pilot Cert Expiring ( Paper ) March 2010 |
.
.
They sent me my "Plastic" card in a week.... Free
.
.
Gotta Fly...
Mike & "Jaz" the Flying Dog
.
.
.
--------
.
.
.
.
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
Tony, I plumbed my fuel system with stock plastic tanks and top taps. There
is no balance line between the tanks so I run a selector valve. I have the
fuel gauge sender in the tank behind me since I cannot see it in flight. I
run off the left tank first until it's down to a gallon or so, then switch
to the right tank with the gauge.
For what it's worth.
Rick Girard
On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 12:21 PM, albertakolbmk3
<cheriebraun@xplornet.com>wrote:
> cheriebraun@xplornet.com>
>
> Your opinions would be appreciated.
>
> The original owner had a valve to switch between tanks I want to eliminate
> that. Also, with it set up like this do I still need to use the primer bulb
> he has installed. I have remote chokes. Just trying to work on the KISS
> principal.
>
> Tony
>
> --------
> Tony B.
>
> Kolb MKIII C
> Rotax 582
> C Gearbox 3.00:1
> WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282505#282505
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/scan01202010_081733_medium_153.bmp
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
Tony,
I have a 2 tank firestar 2. I have never liked the top draw system, I
am NOT trying to say there is something wrong with it , or that any
one should change it, just that I
personally don't like it. At my auto store I found an all metal tire
valve that is made similar to a through bulkhead fitting. I removed
the [guts] , made a gasket of silicone ,cut a hole
in the bottom of each tank and mounted the valves. I connected the
valves together with tubing , and with a tee between them , then
connected the tee to the facet pump [it is also is lower than
the tanks]. The fuel level in both tanks stays the same and all but
about a quart of fuel is usable, assuming I can keep the plane level.
No on off valves in the entire sys.
Once again ,taking a page from John Hs book I'm not suggesting
that this is the way things should be done, only that this is how i
did it. About 100 hrs on this sys. No problems.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar 2
Brownsville , TX
On Jan 20, 2010, at 1:30 PM, Richard Girard wrote:
> Tony, I plumbed my fuel system with stock plastic tanks and top
> taps. There is no balance line between the tanks so I run a selector
> valve. I have the fuel gauge sender in the tank behind me since I
> cannot see it in flight. I run off the left tank first until it's
> down to a gallon or so, then switch to the right tank with the gauge.
> For what it's worth.
>
> Rick Girard
>
> On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 12:21 PM, albertakolbmk3 <cheriebraun@xplornet.com
> > wrote:
> >
>
> Your opinions would be appreciated.
>
> The original owner had a valve to switch between tanks I want to
> eliminate that. Also, with it set up like this do I still need to
> use the primer bulb he has installed. I have remote chokes. Just
> trying to work on the KISS principal.
>
> Tony
>
> --------
> Tony B.
>
> Kolb MKIII C
> Rotax 582
> C Gearbox 3.00:1
> WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282505#282505
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/scan01202010_081733_medium_153.bmp
>
>
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Message 21
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| Subject: | Fuel system layout |
Frank=2C
I like the description of your fuel system. Your's sounds very similar
to mine.
One minor difference between our systems is I have a petcock at the lowes
t point of the tubing=2C to allow for a quick drain of moisture in the fuel
.
You didn't mention that you can accomodate for moisture drainage. Do you
have a way to drain off any water/crud in your fuel system?
Mike Welch
From: frank.goodnight@att.net
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel system layout
Tony=2C
I have a 2 tank firestar 2. I have never liked the top draw system=2C I am
NOT trying to say there is something wrong with it =2C or that any one shou
ld change it=2C just that I
personally don't like it. At my auto store I found an all metal tire valve
that is made similar to a through bulkhead fitting. I removed the [guts]
=2C made a gasket of silicone =2Ccut a hole
in the bottom of each tank and mounted the valves. I connected the valves t
ogether with tubing =2C and with a tee between them =2C then connected the
tee to the facet pump [it is also is lower than
the tanks]. The fuel level in both tanks stays the same and all but about a
quart of fuel is usable=2C assuming I can keep the plane level. No on off
valves in the entire sys.
Once again =2Ctaking a page from John Hs book I'm not suggesting that t
his is the way things should be done=2C only that this is how i did it. Abo
ut 100 hrs on this sys. No problems.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar 2
Brownsville =2C TX
On Jan 20=2C 2010=2C at 1:30 PM=2C Richard Girard wrote:
Tony=2C I plumbed my fuel system with stock plastic tanks and top taps. The
re is no balance line between the tanks so I run a selector valve. I have t
he fuel gauge sender in the tank behind me since I cannot see it in flight.
I run off the left tank first until it's down to a gallon or so=2C then sw
itch to the right tank with the gauge.
For what it's worth.
Rick Girard
On Wed=2C Jan 20=2C 2010 at 12:21 PM=2C albertakolbmk3 <cheriebraun@xplorne
t.com> wrote:
>
Your opinions would be appreciated.
The original owner had a valve to switch between tanks I want to eliminate
that. Also=2C with it set up like this do I still need to use the primer bu
lb he has installed. I have remote chokes. Just trying to work on the KISS
principal.
Tony
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66"=3B 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282505#282505
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
At 06:51 PM 1/20/2010, frank.goodnight wrote:
>Tony,
>I have a 2 tank firestar 2. I have never liked the top draw system, I am
>NOT trying to say there is something wrong with it , or that any one
>should change it, just that I
>personally don't like it. At my auto store I found an all metal tire
>valve that is made similar to a through bulkhead fitting. I removed the
>[guts] , made a gasket of silicone ,cut a hole...
Only problem I see is the silicone gasket... mixing silicone with gasoline
is bad news.
-Dana
--
"Naked" means you ain't got no clothes on; "nekkid" means you ain't got
no clothes on - and are up to somethin'.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
Hi Mike ,
I don't have a moisture trap or drain. Have never had a water problem,
apparently plastic tanks don't condense as much as metal tanks. I do
keep the tanks
full most of the time. I plan to make a sump with drain some time in
the future.[ before the trip to MV this spring] Should have already
done it , lazy & too much procrastination . When I do, I think I will
tie in a loop of fuel line and bring it forward so it can be used as a
sight gage. Too old and too fat to twist around and see how much fuel
is left, I use a mirror but it is not the
best sys. Don't know anything about the electric fuel gages , they may
be a better option.
FYI when I changed to the marine fuel tubing [alcohol resistant] I
did trap the fuel & checked it , clean and dry. About 30 hrs ago.
same small auto store fuel filter for about 100 hrs.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar 2
Brownsville , TX
On Jan 20, 2010, at 6:42 PM, Mike Welch wrote:
> Frank,
>
> I like the description of your fuel system. Your's sounds very
> similar to mine.
>
> One minor difference between our systems is I have a petcock at
> the lowest point of the tubing, to allow for a quick drain of
> moisture in the fuel.
>
> You didn't mention that you can accomodate for moisture drainage.
> Do you have a way to drain off any water/crud in your fuel system?
>
> Mike Welch
>
> From: frank.goodnight@att.net
> To: kolb-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel system layout
> Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 17:51:57 -0600
>
> Tony,
> I have a 2 tank firestar 2. I have never liked the top draw system,
> I am NOT trying to say there is something wrong with it , or that
> any one should change it, just that I
> personally don't like it. At my auto store I found an all metal
> tire valve that is made similar to a through bulkhead fitting. I
> removed the [guts] , made a gasket of silicone ,cut a hole
> in the bottom of each tank and mounted the valves. I connected the
> valves together with tubing , and with a tee between them , then
> connected the tee to the facet pump [it is also is lower than
> the tanks]. The fuel level in both tanks stays the same and all but
> about a quart of fuel is usable, assuming I can keep the plane
> level. No on off valves in the entire sys.
> Once again ,taking a page from John Hs book I'm not suggesting
> that this is the way things should be done, only that this is how i
> did it. About 100 hrs on this sys. No problems.
> Frank Goodnight
> Firestar 2
> Brownsville , TX
>
>
> On Jan 20, 2010, at 1:30 PM, Richard Girard wrote:
>
> Tony, I plumbed my fuel system with stock plastic tanks and top
> taps. There is no balance line between the tanks so I run a selector
> valve. I have the fuel gauge sender in the tank behind me since I
> cannot see it in flight. I run off the left tank first until it's
> down to a gallon or so, then switch to the right tank with the gauge.
> For what it's worth.
>
> Rick Girard
>
> On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 12:21 PM, albertakolbmk3 <cheriebraun@xplornet.com
> > wrote:
> >
>
> Your opinions would be appreciated.
>
> The original owner had a valve to switch between tanks I want to
> eliminate that. Also, with it set up like this do I still need to
> use the primer bulb he has installed. I have remote chokes. Just
> trying to work on the KISS principal.
>
> Tony
>
> --------
> Tony B.
>
> Kolb MKIII C
> Rotax 582
> C Gearbox 3.00:1
> WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282505#282505
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/scan01202010_081733_medium_153.bmp
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
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Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
Dana,
I thought silicone would be the way to go. But I don't pretend to
know much about gasket material . What would you think is the best
material to use. very simple and quick
to change gaskets . I use auto pump gas 10 percent ethanol.
I THANK you for your post. Hope everyone on the list cares
enough to speak up if they see someone doing something they believe is
unsafe, even if some people think
they are being nosy, butting in , or think their way is the only way.
I may not always take the advice that is offered---but I do always
appreciate it----.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar2
Brownsville , TX
On Jan 20, 2010, at 7:16 PM, Dana Hague wrote:
> At 06:51 PM 1/20/2010, frank.goodnight wrote:
>> Tony,
>> I have a 2 tank firestar 2. I have never liked the top draw system,
>> I am NOT trying to say there is something wrong with it , or that
>> any one should change it, just that I
>> personally don't like it. At my auto store I found an all metal
>> tire valve that is made similar to a through bulkhead fitting. I
>> removed the [guts] , made a gasket of silicone ,cut a hole...
>
> Only problem I see is the silicone gasket... mixing silicone with
> gasoline is bad news.
>
> -Dana
>
> --
> "Naked" means you ain't got no clothes on; "nekkid" means you ain't
> got no clothes on - and are up to somethin'.
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
Frank G/Gang:
Understand you used silicone gasket material vs a tube of silicone seal?
I haven't checked the compatibility of silicone material with gasoline.
However, silicone hose connectors for diesel intercoolers is very
popular and very expensive. I have them on the old Dodge Cummins. They
seem to be compatible with diesel, motor oil, antifreeze, and a lot of
heat.
Would be a good idea to check it out to be sure.
If you used silicone seal, that is a no no. I sealed a vented fuel cap
on a Ken Brock seat tank in my FS, in 1987, with silicone seal. On a
flight to Miami, FL, I lost the engine over Sebring, FL. Shot a landing
in the high school foot ball stadium with no brakes. Found a few little
balls of silicone seal in the inlet valve of the primer bulb. ;-(
john h
mkIII
I thought silicone would be the way to go.
Frank Goodnight
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
At 08:27 PM 1/20/2010, frank.goodnight wrote:
>I don't have a moisture trap or drain. Have never had a water problem,
>apparently plastic tanks don't condense as much as metal tanks...
That's what a friend of mine thought, until his engine quit on takeoff. A
bunch of surgeries fixed him but his MKIII is still a crumpled mess.
>I thought silicone would be the way to go. But I don't pretend to know
>much about gasket material . What would you think is the best material to use
Best material for gasoline is nitrile rubber (also known as Buna
N). That's what standard O-rings are generally made of.
-Dana
--
"Naked" means you ain't got no clothes on; "nekkid" means you ain't got
no clothes on - and are up to somethin'.
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
Frank G/Gang:
Reference your anticipated fuel site gauge, which I have always used in
my FS and mkIII.
In order for it to work correctly, you must plumb it from the top of the
tank to the lowest part of the tank, seperately from your other fuel
lines.
If you plumb it into the main fuel line, it will pull the level in the
site gauge down when the engine is running and the fuel pump is pumping.
You've probably already guessed how I know this. ;-)
The site gauge is the most accurate/reliable/no maintenance sytem for
monitoring fuel level.
john h
mkIII
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
John,
I used silicone gasket material, not the tube stuff.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar 2
On Jan 20, 2010, at 8:03 PM, John Hauck wrote:
> Frank G/Gang:
>
> Understand you used silicone gasket material vs a tube of silicone
> seal?
>
> I haven't checked the compatibility of silicone material with
> gasoline. However, silicone hose connectors for diesel intercoolers
> is very popular and very expensive. I have them on the old Dodge
> Cummins. They seem to be compatible with diesel, motor oil,
> antifreeze, and a lot of heat.
>
> Would be a good idea to check it out to be sure.
>
> If you used silicone seal, that is a no no. I sealed a vented fuel
> cap on a Ken Brock seat tank in my FS, in 1987, with silicone seal.
> On a flight to Miami, FL, I lost the engine over Sebring, FL. Shot
> a landing in the high school foot ball stadium with no brakes.
> Found a few little balls of silicone seal in the inlet valve of the
> primer bulb. ;-(
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
> I thought silicone would be the way to go.
>
> Frank Goodnight
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
Frank,
There is a low point drain for each tank... the spring loaded push type like on
the GA's.
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282609#282609
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut lexan |
In a message dated 1/20/2010 5:15:40 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
cheriebraun@xplornet.com writes:
What is the best way to cut lexan. Knife, bandsaw, jigsaw.
Tony,
In the past, I used a hacksaw blade, just the blade, wrapped in a rag and
held in my hand. It took a long time to make the cut. Was hard to follow
the line, left a rough edge and made a lot of dust/dirt.
Now I cut it with my shears. The 12 inch size is a little hard to squeeze
so if you have a larger size it would be easier. It's easy to follow the
line, It cuts clean and needs very little sanding or smoothing. Test it on
a small piece and you will be amazed at how well it cuts.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
Message 31
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| Subject: | Fuel system layout |
>Don't know anything about the electric fuel gages =2C they may be a better
option.
>Frank Goodnight
>Firestar 2
>Brownsville =2C TX
Frank=2C
It's hard to dispute John H.'s take on a clear tubing sight gauge. If it
's plumbed correctly=2C not a whole lot can go wrong.
However=2C if you were inclined to want an electric fuel gauge=2C here's
a couple of points.
First=2C the electric gauge uses a tiny amount of electricity (a couple of
milli-volts). It sends this electricity to a sending unit to measure the r
esistance of the sending unit's float position=2C which is actually a varia
ble resistor. This sending unit mounts to the top of the fuel tank=2C wit
h the mechanism (float) hanging down inside the tank.
As the float arm swings up or down=2C it slides the contact point of the
resistor=2C giving a different resistance depending on the float position.
If the resistance is high=2C it means your tank is full. If the resistan
ce is low=2C you're getting low on fuel. The gauge is simply an ohm meter
=2C but it gives it's reading in a scale that reads "1/4...1/2...3/4...full
".
There are two popular "types" of fuel gauges. (Actually=2C I think I've
seen some foreign odd-balls=2C but I'm not talking about those).
There is the 10-180 ohm gauge/sending unit=2C and the 33-240 ohm gauge/se
nding unit.
They are NOT interchangeable=2C at least not with accurate fuel level readi
ngs.
The hook-up is fairly easy=2C and very straightforward. 5 wire hookup.
12v pos & neg. and dash lights. The other two wires go to the sending unit
=2C and clip on the top of the sending
unit with those little spade wire clamps.
Most of the gauges you can buy at Pep Boys=2C Autozone=2C etc=2C have a r
ange of tank depth they'll work in. Often 5" to 16" deep tank.
Here is a very typical gauge/sending unit you'd find at an auto parts sto
re. Note this is the 10-180 ohm style.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VDO-301104-Gauge-Cockpit-Fuel-Level-Empty-F
ull-10-180_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4ced3601d5QQitemZ330397254101QQptZMot
orsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Like I said=2C if a guy were inclined to want an actual gauge=2C getting
one of these universal type units is a simple solution. They're super easy
to hook up=2C and aren't very expensive.
BTW=2C you don't have to buy the gauge with the sending unit. But=2C yo
u will definitely want to make sure you get the proper gauge and sending un
it ohm ranges matched=2C if you buy them separately.
Mike Welch
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free=2C trusted and rich email service.
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| Subject: | Re: Flying the lazy river on Youtube |
Lucien,
Just got to opening the list from the 15th. Thanks much for the link of
John taking off and landing the other FlagFly in heavy wind. I admire
his control. I've seen the video before and always wondered if there
was a reason he cut the power and then poured it on again, or was he
just playing. I'm going to bookmark the llink this time so I don't lose it.
Now, if anyone has the link to Possums flying along a lazy southern (I
think) river...
Best,
Dave Kulp
FF 11DMK
Speaking of the firefly, there is a vid on youtube of what looks
to be the Kolb
factory firefly flying at what I think is Sun-n-fun by (again I
think) John H:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SFhiQRlGwA
It too has a nifty patriotic paint scheme.
I've lost count of how many batrillion times I've watched this
vid.....
LS
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Flying the lazy river on Youtube |
I've seen the video before and always wondered if there
> was a reason he cut the power and then poured it on again, or was he
> just playing.
>
> Dave Kulp
I was trying not to crash a brand new Fire Fly that did no belong to me.
john h
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