Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:44 AM - gas tanks (robert bean)
2. 08:55 AM - broken exhaust sender clamp (cristalclear13)
3. 10:17 AM - Re: broken exhaust sender clamp (Richard Pike)
4. 10:49 AM - Re: gas tanks (Dana Hague)
5. 11:01 AM - Re: broken exhaust sender clamp (Jack B. Hart)
6. 06:01 PM - Rotax 582 cylinder head & Pistons (albertakolbmk3)
Message 1
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I recently received two new 5 gal tanks for the MkIII. The ones in it now are
at least 30 years old and yellowed.
They were old water treatment chemical throw-aways.
These appear to be at least as sturdy as my old ones and have the bonus of little
vents in the handles.
If interested here is where I got them:
http://www.utahbiodieselsupply.com/carboys.php
Price is good and delivery fast.
I also found a source that sells fluorinated tanks which are supposed to resist
ethanol. A bit more expensive.
Will fwd their site if interested.
BB
Message 2
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| Subject: | broken exhaust sender clamp |
The clamp broke on both EGT senders. Is that strange?
The way it is built it looks like I will have to order entirely new senders. It
doesn't look like the clamp is sold separately or that it is possible to separate
the sender from the clamp.
--------
Cristal Waters
Kolb Mark II Twinstar
Rotax 503 DCSI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283645#283645
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/broken_exhaust_probe_clamp_106.jpg
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: broken exhaust sender clamp |
Cut the old band clamp off with a Dremel tool. Get new band clamps that will fit
all the way around the manifold. Drill a hole in the clamp big enough that
the probe will slip through. Cut out a piece of thin metal about as big as a dime,
and drill a hole in it that will fit the probe just above the wide flange
where the old band originally held the probe in place. Cut a slot that same width
from the edge to the hole, slip it onto the probe just above the flange and
below the new band clamp and tighten it all down.
If it doesn't work, you are out the price of two hose clamps and a half hour of
fiddling.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283655#283655
Message 4
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At 10:43 AM 1/27/2010, robert bean wrote:
>I also found a source that sells fluorinated tanks which are supposed to
>resist ethanol. A bit more expensive.
You don't need a fluorinated tank to resist ethanol, plain old HDPE will do
fine. The fluorinated tanks are only needed in applications that need to
be CARB compliant; the fluorinated plastic has lower permeability to
hydrocarbon emissions... from the same folks who mandated "spill proof"
(which are actually pour proof) as can spouts.
-Dana
--
A flying saucer results when a nudist spills his coffee.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: broken exhaust sender clamp |
At 08:55 AM 1/27/10 -0800, you wrote:
>
>The clamp broke on both EGT senders. Is that strange?
>
>The way it is built it looks like I will have to order entirely new
senders. It doesn't look like the clamp is sold separately or that it is
possible to separate the sender from the clamp.
>
>--------
>Cristal Waters
>Kolb Mark II Twinstar
>Rotax 503 DCSI
>
Cristal,
I would splice on a new screw end. Takes a few minutes and it is
inexpensive.
Find a matching hose clamp. Cut away the end with the slots in it. Drill a
hole through the cut solid clamp end that will pass over the probe. Put the
hole end over the probe and match up the two thicknesses, and drill an 1/8
inch ID hole through both. Cut away excess solid length. Insert a
stainless pop rivet through from the inside and pop it. Thread the old
clamping strip through the new screw end and tighten it into place.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
Message 6
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| Subject: | Rotax 582 cylinder head & Pistons |
Well, after taking my lexan off and rewiring for my new EIS I decided to replace
all the fuel lines and re-do the fuel system. Since I had it that far apart
I decided to pull the engine off and go through it also... but that's as far as
I'm going :-). I thought I would attach some pictures showing the pistons and
head., they actually look pretty good (I thought) approx. 145 hrs. as I'm not
sure if the previous owner decarboned them or not. He told me he had put new
pistons in at I believe 330 hrs. Anyways, here's the pictures. You'll have to
excuse the quality as I took them with my phone.
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283729#283729
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0115_medium_533.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0116_medium_258.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0117_medium_949.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0119_medium_487.jpg
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