Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:20 AM - Re: Middle Tennessee Home with Airstrip (David Lucas)
2. 05:02 AM - Re: Elevator trim (Richard Girard)
3. 05:44 AM - Re: Elevator trim (Richard Pike)
4. 06:08 AM - Re: Elevator trim (Mike Welch)
5. 06:35 AM - Re: Help with elevator cable (Ralph B)
6. 06:36 AM - Re: Elevator trim (zeprep251@aol.com)
7. 06:48 AM - Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 06/14/10 (Bob Green)
8. 07:07 AM - Fuel Lines (Richard Neilsen)
9. 07:27 AM - Re: Elevator trim (Richard Neilsen)
10. 07:29 AM - Re: Fuel Lines (John Hauck)
11. 07:53 AM - Re: Elevator trim (Jason Omelchuck)
12. 09:01 AM - Re: Re: Elevator trim (Mike Welch)
13. 09:59 AM - Re: Fuel Lines (Dana Hague)
14. 10:39 AM - Re: Elevator trim (b young)
15. 10:55 AM - Re: Fuel Lines (b young)
16. 01:01 PM - Re: Elevator trim (Mike Welch)
17. 02:09 PM - Re: Help with elevator cable (Frank Fanelli)
18. 02:21 PM - Re: Re: Help with elevator cable (Frank Fanelli)
19. 02:22 PM - Re: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 06/14/10 (Frank Fanelli)
20. 04:32 PM - Re: Middle Tennessee Home with Airstrip (Ratherfly)
21. 05:04 PM - Re: Fuel Lines (Dana Hague)
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| Subject: | Re: Middle Tennessee Home with Airstrip |
Wow, those responses were bit heavy. And yes, perhaps Barnstormers would be better,
and I don't have a spare half million either, but I found it interesting
enough even if a bit on the fringe of list purpose. A Kolb would look lost in
that hanger, but I'd love a workshop/hangar like that to build in, and to have
an airstrip outside . . . .
David.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=301271#301271
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim |
While Mike's suggestion is certainly worthwhile, it's a bandaid to incorrect
horizontal stabilizer incidence from the way you describe it. Have you
checked to make sure this is per spec?
Rick Girard
On Mon, Jun 14, 2010 at 10:07 PM, Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com>wrote:
> > The elevator trim on my Mark III is set up so that it takes full forward
> on the lever just to give me neutral elevator. How do I correct so that
> lever is at mid point for neutral elevator?
> >
> > K. Toney
> > SC
> > 582
>
>
> K.Toney,
>
> On my MkIII, there's a long steel strap (that I fabricated according to
> the plans),
> that goes from the double spring arrangment to the lever arm of the trim
> tab. If I needed to correct my tension like you say you need to do, I'd
> simply relocate the present hole in the strap to a closer hole on the strap,
> thereby shortening the effective cable length.
> At any rate, you should be able to redo your strap mount a hole or two
> shorter.
>
> Mike Welch
> MkIII
>
>
> ------------------------------
> The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. Get
> started.<http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3>
>
> *
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> *
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>
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim |
The spring tension on mine is adjusted such that with the trim lever all the way
forward, the trim springs exert no pressure on the elevator at all, it just
hangs down. The trim lever begins to exert some effect when it is a couple notches
up, and when I have a full size passenger, it needs to be all the way up
or close to it. Hope that helps.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=301279#301279
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While Mike's suggestion is certainly worthwhile=2C it's a bandaid to incorr
ect horizontal stabilizer incidence from the way you describe it. Have you
checked to make sure this is per spec?
Rick Girard
Rick=2C
Bandaid?? He asked how to adjust the elevator trim to have better action
. I explained how. He didn't say he had a problem with stabilizer inciden
ce=2C or I could have given him the OEM setting.
Mike
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| Subject: | Re: Help with elevator cable |
Frank, it's good that you noticed the fraying before it got worse. I have used
the screw type of swedge tool. It works well and you may want to apply some oil
to the screws before tightening it.
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar 447
N91493 E-AB
1000 hours
23 years flying it
Kolbra 912UL
N20386
2 years flying it
120 hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=301284#301284
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim |
Guys
The system is designed to relieve back pressure load on the stick.The amo
unt of weight in the seats or forward of the cg is the variable.
G.Aman Mk3C
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com>
Sent: Tue, Jun 15, 2010 9:07 am
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Elevator trim
While Mike's suggestion is certainly worthwhile, it's a bandaid to incorre
ct horizontal stabilizer incidence from the way you describe it. Have you
checked to make sure this is per spec?
Rick Girard
Rick,
Bandaid?? He asked how to adjust the elevator trim to have better actio
n. I explained how. He didn't say he had a problem with stabilizer incid
ence, or I could have given him the OEM setting.
Mike
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| Subject: | RE: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 06/14/10 |
Boyd has the right idea... Also the small split bolt clamps used by electricians
can be purchased at Lowes or Home Depot and are very useful in holding the
cables, sleeves, etc in place while swaging process takes place...as Richard says.
I always tightly wrap masking tape on the cable where I am going to cut
it. This helps keep a neat (non-frayed) end on the cable.
There should be plenty of information provided from guys on the list. The economical
swaging tools sold at Kolb(I mention Kolb because I am in favor of keeping
them in business by giving them all the business we can) work great. There
should be instructions included with the tool and or in the Aircraft Spruce hard
copy catalog. Sounds like you are on the right track. Dragging a small cotton
towel over the cables is a good way to check for frays. Usually the frays
snag on the towel. Be careful about snagging a finger. You plane is probably
different but if I were changing cables on my MK IIIX I would connect a strong
string or wire to the end of the cable and use that to install the new one
(attach the new cable to the end of the string or wire and pull it back through...
it will follow the routing of the old cable).
Hopefully John Hauck will respond as he has the most experience with Kolbs.
You are to be commended for being sensitive to "sights and sounds" as you have
inspected your plane.
Bob
Building MKIIIX
A&P
Time: 11:39:05 AM PST US
From: Frank Fanelli <frankf@flying-models.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Help with elevator cable
Hi:
Bought a used, high time (740 hours) Firestar back in January, and have
been attending to the usual maintenance issues, all non-airworthy items.
Flew the plane three times so far and it is a real delight compared to
the Quicksilvers I flew for about 12 years.
During the preflight check before the fourth flight Friday (6/11), I
hear a scraping noise under the seat during the preflight check of the
controls. Thought at first it was something under the seat rubbing
against the cable, but nothing there. The visible part of the cable
looked and felt okay. Discovered that one of the elevator cables was
slightly frayed just aft of the pulley. Couldn't see it, but could feel
it. So, no more flying until the cables are replaced.
Called Kolb and got the part numbers for all the cable components but I
don't have a set plans, just the building instructions. Nothing much in
there about the procedure for re-installing the cables, so I'm asking
for some guidance. I do know they need to be taut, and each cable must
stay that way when the stick is moved forward and back. Also know that
one cable can't go slack when the other is taut.
Also need to know if the economy swaging tools (the screw type) can be
used easily when doing this. Welcome your insights.
Frank Fanelli
New Jersey
________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________
Time: 11:53:09 AM PST US
From: "b young" <by0ung@brigham.net>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Help with elevator cable
Frank
Can't help with plans.... but seems you have one to copy. If you tie a
small rope to one end and pull it through... make a new cable the same
length as the old. Then pull back in place with the rope to reinstall.
The only problem with this is if there had been any major stretch to the
cable. In which case you would make it a bit shorter, you could check for
this by seeing how much adjustment is in the turnbuckle. Middle of the
adjustment make the same length,,, adjustment all the way in,,, make it a
bit shorter, so you will have room to adjust again.
The economy swaging tool seem to work ok for me.
Boyd Young
MKIII 640 hours
Utah
Time: 06:15:15 PM PST US
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Help with elevator cable
From: "Richard Pike" <richard@bcchapel.org>
Yep, one like this is all you need. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/no2swageit.php
Doesn't hurt to practice a bit with some extra cable and waste a few sleeves if
you've not done any before. IMO, a box end wrench is easier than a socket and
ratchet. Run one bolt down a bit, then the other, then back, etc. Clamping the
tool in a vise while you are doing things also helps. If you are having trouble
keeping the wires the tension and position you want, small split bolt grounding
clamps are useful to keep everything in position and won't hurt your cables.
http://www.summitsource.com/product_info.php?ref=1&products_id=7768
I like to use two sleeves per thimble and also cut the ends off the thimbles first,
makes them fit better and they will not get loose.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=301248#301248
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A couple of years ago I replaced most of my fuel lines with black automotive
fuel lines but retained some clear lines where I feel it is necessary.
One is used a fuel level sight tube, a short section going into my carbs to
view fuel flow during carb priming, and one between the aux tank and the
main tanks. The clear lines normally get replaced about every two years when
they start to yellow. I also had a few short pieces of blue fuel line seems
like they were labeled Air Wolf or something like that. Any way on preflight
I noticed a fuel line hanging disconnected behind the seats. On further
inspection I found the blue line had broken clean off one of the nylon tee
fittings right at the end of the fitting. The fuel line still LOOKS fine and
is still the original color and flexible.
When I was fixing the break another section of this of this blue fuel line
attached to the other side of the tee broke off in my hands!!!!
This fuel line is maybe four years old and is in the back of the fuselage in
a location that doesn't get any sun light on it so it wouldn't be caused by
UV rays. I'm a bit surprised at my self that I hadn't replaced all the blue
fuel line before this but???? Any way I will be removing ALL that blue
crap before I fly again.
Please inspect or replace any of the blue Air Wolf fuel line that you
may have in your airplanes.
Rick Neilsen
1st Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim |
Do this the way that you are most comfortable with but I set my trim so that
the first notch is neutral for me solo in the airplane. When I carry a
passenger I move it to a mid point in the trim range and by trial and error
trim the plane. When I go back to flying by my self I go back to the first
notch where the trim is perfect 1st time.
There should be a short tab where the trim lever attaches to the elevator
cable with a bunch of holes that should allow you to adjust the trim range.
Rick Neilsen
1st Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
On Mon, Jun 14, 2010 at 10:44 PM, clrprop <ktony@windstream.net> wrote:
>
> The elevator trim on my Mark III is set up so that it takes full forward on
> the lever just to give me neutral elevator. How do I correct so that lever
> is at mid point for neutral elevator?
>
> K. Toney
> SC
> 582
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=301256#301256
>
>
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I quit using plastic fuel line many years ago.
Plastic line works great on lawn mowers, but not worth a damn on
airplanes.
The standard answer for plastic fuel line use is to see the fuel inside
the line????
I use high grade black neoprene fuel line. Last many years and does not
fall off the fittings.
john h
mkIII
Please inspect or replace any of the blue Air Wolf fuel line that you
may have in your airplanes.
Rick Neilsen
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim |
The trim on the MKIII is set up to only pull back on the stick with a spring.
With the trim all the way forward, Ideally, you should be able to fly solo close
to trimmed out. If when you are flying solo you need to push the stick forward,
you should check and see if there is any tension on the trim spring. If
there is not, making the spring more slack is not going to give you any additional
nose down trim. As with some of the other people here, my trim is almost
full forward when solo and moves back from there depending on how heavy of passenger
I have.
Jason
MKIII
Portland OR
clrprop wrote:
> The elevator trim on my Mark III is set up so that it takes full forward on the
lever just to give me neutral elevator. How do I correct so that lever is at
mid point for neutral elevator?
>
> K. Toney
> SC
> 582
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=301297#301297
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim |
Jason=2C
I think you might be reading his "forward & backward" backwards. At leas
t=2C that's what it seems to me.
From what I understood=2C according to his description=2C he needs MORE p
ull on the springs=2C not less=2C as you describe.
I got the impression he want a way to preload the springs a little bit mo
re than they are at rest. Like I said......that's what I understood.
BTW=2C I have my trim tab spring arrangement to hold the elevator flat le
vel at about the 3rd notch from the bottom. By about the 7-8th notch up=2C
the elevator is held in the full
up position.
Mike Welch
MkIII
> The trim on the MKIII is set up to only pull back on the stick with a spr
ing. With the trim all the way forward=2C Ideally=2C you should be able to
fly solo close to trimmed out. If when you are flying solo you need to push
the stick forward=2C you should check and see if there is any tension on t
he trim spring. If there is not=2C making the spring more slack is not goin
g to give you any additional nose down trim. As with some of the other peop
le here=2C my trim is almost full forward when solo and moves back from the
re depending on how heavy of passenger I have.
>
> Jason
> MKIII
> Portland OR
>
>
>
> clrprop wrote:
> > The elevator trim on my Mark III is set up so that it takes full forwar
d on the lever just to give me neutral elevator. How do I correct so that l
ever is at mid point for neutral elevator?
> >
> > K. Toney
> > SC
> > 582
>
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=301297#301297
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
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At 10:06 AM 6/15/2010, Richard Neilsen wrote:
>...I also had a few short pieces of blue fuel line seems like they were
>labeled Air Wolf or something like that. Any way on preflight I noticed a
>fuel line hanging disconnected behind the seats. On further inspection I
>found the blue line had broken clean off...
>Please inspect or replace any of the blue Air Wolf fuel line that you may
>have in your airplanes...
I know John and some others don't like the clear fuel line, but I do.
However, the blue line that Aircraft Spruce sells (which they list as "Bing
alcohol resistant fuel line") is clearly not the same as the blue line that
Airwolf sells. I have purchased both, and they're visibly different. The
ACS stuff is darker colored, firmer, and seems to hold up better. Either
way, i replace all plastic fuel lines once a year when I do my annual
maintenance and inspection.
I also have some of the yellow Tygon as a sight gauge, but only because the
blue line isn't available in the required size (5/16" ID).
-Dana
--
I don't trust a government I can't shoot back at.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim |
The elevator trim on my Mark III is set up so that it takes full forward
on the lever just to give me neutral elevator. How do I correct so that
lever is at mid point for neutral elevator?
K. Toney
SC
582
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
k toney
guess i would check to see if at any time you needed down trim... if so
modify away.
in my plane even flying near rear cg no down trim is necessary... and
i only add up trim as the cg moves forward.
the trim springs are a tension spring only... in order to provide
down trim you would have to be able to tie into a spring assembly at mid
point in order to provide push and pull trim movements. this would
require a much more rigid assembly.
the other possibility is to move the leading edge of the stabilizers up.
eliminating any need for down trim.
boyd young
Message 15
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...I also had a few short pieces of blue fuel line seems like they
were labeled Air Wolf or something like that. Any way on preflight I
noticed a fuel line hanging disconnected behind the seats. On further
inspection I found the blue line had broken clean off...
Please inspect or replace any of the blue Air Wolf fuel line that you
may have in your airplanes...
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
i used the fuel line that came with the kit,,,, bought some more
plastic line from the local bike/snowmobile shop. the bike shop
stuff went hard and brittle. and the original stuff stayed
soft,,,,,,, BUT i could not keep it from leaking. i was using
the black plastic clamps that attach with a pair of pliers, when i
used the faucet pump (4psi) they leaked past the tube and fitting
where the clamps had the overlap joint. guess i never checked for leaks
with just the mechanical pump of the 912. it should have been near the
same pressure as the faucet pump. i started looking for leaks when
the carbs started staining.
replaced with black fuel line from napa had no problems since. if i
were worried i would put in a low pressure switch and wire it to the
panel.
boyd young
Message 16
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Kolb guys=2C
After rereading K. Toney's original post=2C I may be the off is misunders
tanding his description. I shall refrain from making any comments until he
is able to better clarify his exact dilemma.
Respectfully=2C
Mike Welch
> Subject: Kolb-List: Elevator trim
> From: ktony@windstream.net
> Date: Mon=2C 14 Jun 2010 19:44:41 -0700
> To: kolb-list@matronics.com
>
>
> The elevator trim on my Mark III is set up so that it takes full forward
on the lever just to give me neutral elevator. How do I correct so that lev
er is at mid point for neutral elevator?
>
> K. Toney
> SC
> 582
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=301256#301256
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Help with elevator cable |
On 6/14/2010 2:52 PM, b young wrote:
>
> Frank
>
> Can't help with plans.... but seems you have one to copy. If you
> tie a small rope to one end and pull it through... make a new cable
> the same length as the old. Then pull back in place with the rope to
> reinstall.
>
> The only problem with this is if there had been any major stretch to
> the cable. In which case you would make it a bit shorter, you could
> check for this by seeing how much adjustment is in the turnbuckle.
> Middle of the adjustment make the same length,,, adjustment all the
> way in,,, make it a bit shorter, so you will have room to adjust again.
>
> The economy swaging tool seem to work ok for me.
>
> Boyd Young
>
> MKIII 640 hours
>
> Utah
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
>
> Called Kolb and got the part numbers for all the cable components but I
>
> don't have a set plans, just the building instructions. Nothing much in
>
> there about the procedure for re-installing the cables, so I'm asking
>
> for some guidance. I do know they need to be taut, and each cable must
>
> stay that way when the stick is moved forward and back. Also know that
>
> one cable can't go slack when the other is taut.
>
> Also need to know if the economy swaging tools (the screw type) can be
>
> used easily when doing this. Welcome your insights.
>
> Frank Fanelli
>
> *
>
>
> *
Boyd:
Thanks for the quick reply. You're right. That's what I was going to do.
Just wasn't sure if there was a guide of some kind inside the boom tube.
Also wasn't sure if there was a spec for cable length on the plans. I
deal with radio control planes and the larger ones have gone to cable
systems for the rudders especially and know that the cable need to be
equally tensioned, the same situation with the Firestar
Well, ordered the bits and pieces today and hopefully will get into it
by and during the weekend. Those first three flights to get the feel of
the plane definitely whet my appetite for a lot more flying.
Frank Fanelli
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| Subject: | Re: Help with elevator cable |
On 6/15/2010 9:35 AM, Ralph B wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: "Ralph B"<ul15@juno.com>
>
> Frank, it's good that you noticed the fraying before it got worse. I have used
the screw type of swedge tool. It works well and you may want to apply some
oil to the screws before tightening it.
>
> Ralph
>
> --------
> Ralph B
> Original Firestar 447
> N91493 E-AB
> 1000 hours
> 23 years flying it
> Kolbra 912UL
> N20386
> 2 years flying it
> 120 hrs
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=301284#301284
>
>
>
Hi Ralph
Found a swage tool in Home Depot that's 18 inches long instead of the 26
sold by Aircraft Spruce and others for $250 plus. Couldn't afford that
for just two cables so the Home Depot swage was only 26 bucks and it
will handle the 3/32 cable and two other larger sizes. I'm sure it will
work.
By the way, you're a high time Firestar pilot. Any tips about what other
things to look for on a high time plane that aren't obvious or visual?
Funny this happened with the cable. When I bought the plane my first
concern was what I couldn't see in the boom tube, and wondered about the
condition of the cables inside the boom since the plane was high time
and there was nothing in the plane's records that indicated any
maintenance on them.
Frank Fanelli
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 06/14/10 |
On 6/15/2010 9:40 AM, Bob Green wrote:
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: Bob Green<bgreen@bimi.org>
>
> To: Frank
> Boyd has the right idea... Also the small split bolt clamps used by electricians
can be purchased at Lowes or Home Depot and are very useful in holding the
cables, sleeves, etc in place while swaging process takes place...as Richard
says. I always tightly wrap masking tape on the cable where I am going to cut
it. This helps keep a neat (non-frayed) end on the cable.
> There should be plenty of information provided from guys on the list. The economical
swaging tools sold at Kolb(I mention Kolb because I am in favor of keeping
them in business by giving them all the business we can) work great. There
should be instructions included with the tool and or in the Aircraft Spruce
hard copy catalog. Sounds like you are on the right track. Dragging a small
cotton towel over the cables is a good way to check for frays. Usually the frays
snag on the towel. Be careful about snagging a finger. You plane is probably
different but if I were changing cables on my MK IIIX I would connect a
strong string or wire to the end of the cable and use that to install the new
one (attach the new cable to the end of the string or wire and pull it back through...
it will follow the routing of the old cable).
> Hopefully John Hauck will respond as he has the most experience with Kolbs.
> You are to be commended for being sensitive to "sights and sounds" as you have
inspected your plane.
> Bob
> Building MKIIIX
> A&P
>
> Time: 11:39:05 AM PST US
> From: Frank Fanelli<frankf@flying-models.com>
> Subject: Kolb-List: Help with elevator cable
>
>
> Hi:
>
> Bought a used, high time (740 hours) Firestar back in January, and have
> been attending to the usual maintenance issues, all non-airworthy items.
> Flew the plane three times so far and it is a real delight compared to
> the Quicksilvers I flew for about 12 years.
>
> During the preflight check before the fourth flight Friday (6/11), I
> hear a scraping noise under the seat during the preflight check of the
> controls. Thought at first it was something under the seat rubbing
> against the cable, but nothing there. The visible part of the cable
> looked and felt okay. Discovered that one of the elevator cables was
> slightly frayed just aft of the pulley. Couldn't see it, but could feel
> it. So, no more flying until the cables are replaced.
>
> Called Kolb and got the part numbers for all the cable components but I
> don't have a set plans, just the building instructions. Nothing much in
> there about the procedure for re-installing the cables, so I'm asking
> for some guidance. I do know they need to be taut, and each cable must
> stay that way when the stick is moved forward and back. Also know that
> one cable can't go slack when the other is taut.
>
> Also need to know if the economy swaging tools (the screw type) can be
> used easily when doing this. Welcome your insights.
>
> Frank Fanelli
> New Jersey
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 11:53:09 AM PST US
> From: "b young"<by0ung@brigham.net>
> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Help with elevator cable
>
> Frank
>
>
> Can't help with plans.... but seems you have one to copy. If you tie a
> small rope to one end and pull it through... make a new cable the same
> length as the old. Then pull back in place with the rope to reinstall.
>
>
> The only problem with this is if there had been any major stretch to the
> cable. In which case you would make it a bit shorter, you could check for
> this by seeing how much adjustment is in the turnbuckle. Middle of the
> adjustment make the same length,,, adjustment all the way in,,, make it a
> bit shorter, so you will have room to adjust again.
>
>
> The economy swaging tool seem to work ok for me.
>
>
> Boyd Young
>
> MKIII 640 hours
>
> Utah
>
>
> Time: 06:15:15 PM PST US
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Help with elevator cable
> From: "Richard Pike"<richard@bcchapel.org>
>
>
> Yep, one like this is all you need. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/no2swageit.php
> Doesn't hurt to practice a bit with some extra cable and waste a few sleeves
if
> you've not done any before. IMO, a box end wrench is easier than a socket and
> ratchet. Run one bolt down a bit, then the other, then back, etc. Clamping the
> tool in a vise while you are doing things also helps. If you are having trouble
> keeping the wires the tension and position you want, small split bolt grounding
> clamps are useful to keep everything in position and won't hurt your cables.
>
> http://www.summitsource.com/product_info.php?ref=1&products_id=7768
> I like to use two sleeves per thimble and also cut the ends off the thimbles
first,
> makes them fit better and they will not get loose.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=301248#301248
>
>
>
Hello Bob:
The tip about the masking tape is good. had heard that once before but
forgot about it. Instead of using the old cable to drag the new one
through I was thinking of attaching a rope to the old one and using it
to pull the rope through. That way I can use the old cable as a template
for the new one. That's the plan but as I always seem to find, the best
laid plans, etc.etc.
Frank Fanelli
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Middle Tennessee Home with Airstrip |
Thank you for your kind words, David. Yes, I've already posted to Barnstormers...
and every where else I can think of. I just hope that somewhere I will find
that someone who is interested.
I thought places where home-builders hung out would be a good place to spread the
word, thinking how great it would be to have a BIG garage to work in....
anyway, if the posting is unwelcome, the powers that be need to delete the thread.
I cannot find how to get rid of it myself.
Again, thanks.
Blue Skies....
Tina
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=301336#301336
Message 21
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At 01:55 PM 6/15/2010, b young wrote:
...i could not keep it from leaking. i was using the black plastic
clamps that attach with a pair of pliers...
I would blame those clamps before the tubing... those things never seemed
remotely safe to me.
I use safety wire instead of hose clamps.
-Dana
--
Of all the forces in the world, only the Federal Government has enough
power left to destroy America.
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