Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:31 AM - Re: safety pins (racerjerry)
2. 04:56 AM - Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (racerjerry)
3. 06:48 AM - Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (Mike Welch)
4. 06:59 AM - Re: safety pins (gotime242)
5. 06:59 AM - Re: Oil Reservoir Cap Crack (SAILNROCK)
6. 07:17 AM - Re: Oshkosh 2010 (SAILNROCK)
7. 07:23 AM - Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (Chris_A)
8. 07:53 AM - Re: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (Mike Welch)
9. 08:07 AM - Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (Chris_A)
10. 09:10 AM - Re: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (robert bean)
11. 09:24 AM - Oshkosh (Richard Neilsen)
12. 09:41 AM - inching ever closer to first flight (Bob Kravis)
13. 10:04 AM - Re: safety pins (Douglas P Christian)
14. 10:08 AM - Re: Oshkosh (John Hauck)
15. 10:54 AM - Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. (gotime242)
16. 11:33 AM - Complete re-paint of Kolb. (gotime242)
17. 12:29 PM - Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (Richard Pike)
18. 01:12 PM - Re: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (Mike Welch)
19. 01:41 PM - Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. (Lanny Fetterman)
20. 02:58 PM - Landing video (Richard Girard)
21. 03:08 PM - Re: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (Richard Girard)
22. 03:12 PM - Re: Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. (Richard Girard)
23. 06:18 PM - Re: Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. (Eugene Zimmerman)
24. 06:25 PM - Re: Complete re-paint of Kolb. (Richard Pike)
25. 06:31 PM - Re: Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. (gotime242)
26. 06:42 PM - Re: Re: Complete re-paint of Kolb. (Richard Girard)
27. 06:48 PM - Re: Complete re-paint of Kolb. (Beauford)
28. 07:20 PM - Re: inching ever closer to first flight (Kip)
29. 07:22 PM - Re: Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. (Eugene Zimmerman)
30. 07:41 PM - Re: Re: Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. (John Hauck)
31. 07:47 PM - Re: Re: Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. (John Hauck)
32. 07:58 PM - Re: Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. (gotime242)
33. 08:12 PM - Re: Landing video (Larry Cottrell)
34. 08:42 PM - Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (racerjerry)
35. 09:30 PM - Re: Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. (william sullivan)
36. 10:55 PM - Re: Re: Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. (Richard Girard)
37. 10:59 PM - Re: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (Richard Girard)
Message 1
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If you can get two safety rings into a clevis pin hole, it is likely that they
are too darned small. Personally, I prefer to use as large a wire diameter as
will fit into the hole; but that is not necessary. Be careful if you are using
tiny rings (small O.D.) as they may require excessive stretching during insertion
into a large pin. You don't want the coils to have a permanent spread.
--------
Jerry King
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
Shhhhh. Level the horizontal stabilizers and no one will know except you. Fabricate
new cables if required. In case anyone should discover that your vertical
stabilizer is slightly out of alignment, make up a good lie ahead of time
about the time you got caught in a thunderstorm and the boom got twisted.
--------
Jerry King
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| Subject: | Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
> The holes are drilled and rivets set so there is no going back.
> Thanks=2C Chris
Chris=2C
Sorry to hear about the screw up=2C but there ain't no such thing as
no such thing!! If it were me=2C yes=2C I'd absolutely drill out the rivet
s=2C
and align it correctly. How long would it take to drill them out?
15 minutes???
I'd redo it.
After I got the assembly lined up properly=2C I would drill about 4 brand
new holes=2C to lock the new position in place.
After installing of the 4 locating rivets=2C I would=3B
1) drill out all the remaining rivet holes to their next size UP! They ar
e
probably 1/8" rivets=2C so I'd drill all the remaining holes to 3/16". If
you
don't have any 3/16" rivets=2C order some=2C install them=2C and that's the
only
telltale sign of an error (no one else would know the difference)
Yeah=2C I know a guy could fabricate some new cables=2C and bend the crap
out
the whole arrangement to make it look "close enough"=2C and come up with lo
ts
of excuses that nobody really believes=2C OR=2C a guy could spend two hours
and
make it knat's a.. perfect=2C and not have to make any excuses.
Just my opinion=2C other's may look at it a little differently.
Remember=3B a successful builder NEVER makes mistakes......only prototyp
es!!
Mike Welch
MkIII CX
Finally back to work on my plane=2C after a 3 month hiatus to complete my h
ouse.
Worked on my center console=2C new panel yesterday.
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I was saying two safety pins in the hole. The rings i just ordered are about 1"
and some .80" OD...hopefully those work well.
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Reservoir Cap Crack |
Hi Dawn
I too have had 2 caps crack in the same place.
I too think its bad manufacturing, vary thin were it has broken.
I used JB weld to keep it together like the guy before me did as I got tired of
buying new ones.
Out in the Field when the new one broke I used some plastic from a zip lock bag
,( my sandwich bag )
and a hose clamp to get me home and keep my oil in the tank.
Good luck and don't forget the saftey wire to keep it there.
Bob
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| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh 2010 |
Great Pics
Thanks
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
I am still looking at drilling out the rivets the only issue is that at the ring
the adjustment would be so slight that I'm afraid I wouldn't have the right
amount of clearance between the old holes and the new or even be able to drill
the new holes without breaking into the old. And turning the end of the tube
into Swiss cheese doesn't sound good either.
I have considered cutting an inch or so off the end and starting fresh but that
would leave me with double holes on the other attachment points.
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
> I am still looking at drilling out the rivets the only issue is that at t
he ring the adjustment would be so slight that I'm afraid I wouldn't have t
he right amount of clearance
>Chris
Chris=2C
I know what you are referring to=2C but that's why I suggested the soluti
on in the order I did.
The 4 new rivets would be at a place that hadn't ever been drilled before
....brand new holes!!
These have the only function of locking the ring in it's proper orientation
....period! Once the
ring is correct positioned=2C these rivets would go on immediately.
Yes=2C I know the old boomtube holes will be only slightly offset from th
e empennage ring=2C
but that's why I suggested the "next size up" after all the rivets were rem
oved. That would take
care of that.
I'd bet the offset is so small=2C you'd barely be able to see it=2C which
is my point about the next
size larger rivet. But=2C since you'd have the ring PERFECTly located at t
his point=2C and locked
in place with 4 rivets=2C you could drill all the remaining holes 3/16" and
be creating the nice=2C
clean=2C tight hole for those 3/16" rivets. I don't know you get to the sw
iss cheese scenario.
On my list of screw-ups=2C this one wouldn't even break a sweat at fixing
it right. But=2C you do
what you feel most comfortable with. Best of luck.
Mike W
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
I see now what you are saying. Drill four new locating holes through the ring and
tube. Then drill out the existing holes. This sounds like a solution to my
problem.
Thanks
Chris
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
I see Mike smacking his forehead now :)
Drill out the old rivets. Offset to the the previously quoted "perfect" position.
If what Mike is saying is true, the holes won't be off by much.
In his case the larger rivet will do the trick. -If it still looks to be too much
error for this approach you can use a (very) small rat tail or round file
to begin the larger hole in the ring, thereby beginning an offset that would be
a better guide to the tube hole. Then clean it up with the right drill size.
BB
On 8, Aug 2010, at 11:07 AM, Chris_A wrote:
>
> I see now what you are saying. Drill four new locating holes through the ring
and tube. Then drill out the existing holes. This sounds like a solution to my
problem.
>
> Thanks
> Chris
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=307925#307925
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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I drove to Oshkosh this year and glad I did. It was nice to see the
Kolb factory trailer in the light plane area again but it just isn't the
same. They don't allow camping with your plane on the south west side of the
strip any more. They have moved the fence and they now allow trailer camping
where we used to camp with our planes. Funny how they figured out how to get
trash and toilets in there when they couldn't do that for us plane campers.
Light plane camping is now only allowed near the red barn and you have to
drag your plane through the crowds of people to your camping spot hundreds
of feet from the runway. It works for the factory planes with a team of
helpers but not for individual pilots.
There were three Kolbs in the camping area but only the firestar flew much.
No factory planes were there.
Rick Neilsen
1st Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
Message 12
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| Subject: | inching ever closer to first flight |
Yesterday FireFly E008BK made its way to the runway for taxi tests. I am
fortunate to have EAA chapter 1114 Tech Counselor, Terry Gardener, as a
mechanic/teacher and Van
Covington as a test pilot. Van had a Firestar KXP (?) and has over 300
hours in it. We discovered a few issues that need addressing before Van
takes to the air. Perhaps someone can comment on these.
1. Rudder pedals were installed in such a manner as to be angled to the rear
instead of upright when the rudder is neutral. Perhaps this was an
adjustment for a short pilot. As it is now, the pedals cannot
be comfortably reached with any part of the foot than the ball of the foot.
The solution is straight forward and only requires fabrication of aluminum
bars that are drilled properly to attach the rudder cables and position the
pedals upright. (I like these easy problems.)
2. The ICOM A24 breaks squelch when the master switch in on whether the
engine is running or not, and whether the rubber duck antenna or the
external antenna is attached. I am not sure how to track the problem down.
The unit is powered by internal batteries not the planes electrical. The
planes electrical system include a Kuntzleman Hot Box.
3. The static (plane tied down) wide open throttle is 5,800 RPM. We plan
on re-pitching the 3 blade IVO prop to get the Kolb recommended 6,100 RPM.
4. Trim tabs for the rudder, aileron and elevator were spec'ed and Kolb
instructed installing them by riveting to the ribs in each location. This
seems like it would be very hard to do right as the ribs, in the rudder for
example are 5/16x.032 wall. Very little room for error!
5. The brake cables loop down low before attaching to the Azusa brakes.
There is a chance that they could snag grass or an unseen object on the
runway (like a branch). Not sure how to remedy this as the angle of
attachment is fixed by the brake's backing plate (attached by 4 bolts 90
degrees apart) and a 90 degree rotation is unacceptable since it positions
the actuator arm down toward the front. Maybe shortening the cable a few
inches will take some of the low laying loop out?
Ever closer!
Bob
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A friend of mine addressed my worries about those safety pins by saying that
all the stress is on the thing it is attached to not on the safety pin
itself. The only thing the safety pin is there to do is make sure that
thing doesn't fall out. It does the same job as a nut on a bolt. It is
your job to check those safety pins every so often to make sure they are
there and correctly fastened. If you fold up everything after every flight,
as I do, You are basically performing that check before and after each
flight. In my the estimation, two safety pin in the same hole is like
superglueing your belt and suspenders to your trousers. Since buying my
Firestar I I've changed out all the safety pins with brand new stainless
steel safety pins from Home depot. They work great and are a lot less
expensive.
This advice was given to me by the gentleman who owns Airtech, Inc. in
southeast Louisiana and has been involved with Ultralight and LSA aircraft
for more years then we'd both like to admit to.
Doug Christian
Kolb Firestar I
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They have moved the fence and they now allow trailer camping where we used
to camp with our planes. Funny how they figured out how to get trash and
toilets in there when they couldn't do that for us plane campers. Light
plane camping is now only allowed near the red barn and you have to drag
your plane through the crowds of people to your camping spot hundreds of
feet from the runway. It works for the factory planes with a team of helpers
but not for individual pilots.
Rick Neilsen
Rick N/Gang:
Doesn't encourage me to fly up there anymore.
Looks like Bohagen (???) is doing what he wants to do at the expense of use
fly in and camp out pilots.
john h
mkIII
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| Subject: | Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. |
Hello all,
I'm pretty new to the kolb. I have a firestar II that i have flown twice so far.
It has two holes for the main wing spar, i have been flyng on the lower one, so
it has a higher angle of incidence.
How would the airplane handle with the lower angle of incidence setting? I understand
the aerodynamics of it, but i would like to hear from kolb specific flyers.
So far i am still getting use to having to come in and land this thing with no
flare and its interesting way of losing elevator authority at slow speeds while
trying to land. (For now im just landing with a little power).
With the other setting (lower angle of incidence)....how does it land? How does
it cruise? Stall characteristics?
Thanks!!
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| Subject: | Complete re-paint of Kolb. |
Hello again...
My kolb is currently in need of some patches and paint in quite a few areas. Its
to the point where it would be nice to just repaint the entire airplane.
Its done with the poly process. I just ordered a patch kit from ac spruce (will
be my first time working with fabric...hope it goes well).
What would be the best way about repainting the entire airplane? Is it necessary
to completely remove the paint down to the fabric? Or would just a light sanding
do the trick? The fabric itself (other than the holes, bad touch ups and
lots of hanger rash lol)....is in good shape. I just want it to be pretty again.
Thanks!
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
You might not even need to go to 3/16" rivets, you might even be able to get by
with 5/32" rivets. And it wouldn't hurt to drill the hole to 5/32" and see what
it looked like, if it doesn't look sufficient, go to 3/16".
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
> You might not even need to go to 3/16" rivets=2C you might even be able
to get by with 5/32" rivets. And it wouldn't hurt to drill the hole to 5/32
" and see what it looked like=2C if it doesn't look sufficient=2C go to 3/1
6".
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Richard=2C
Yeah=2C I forgot about 5/32 rivets. I think you're probably right=2C the
offset is likely to be
so small that a cleanup with a 5/32nd drilbit would take care of everything
.
While we're talking about rivets and such=2C the fact of the matter is I'
d probably use those 5/32"
DRIVEN rivets. Why not? You've got pretty good access for your bucking ba
r. I know pop
rivets could work=2C but if I was doing what Chris needs to do=2C I'd just
drive the rivets.
Especially considering the fact I have all the proper pneumatic stuff (rive
t gun and loads of
bucking bars) and a gazillion drive rivets. FWIW.
At any rate=2C that's what I'd do.
I spent the day out in my shop (finally) fabricating the center radio con
sole. Hot and
humid as heck. Center console will have the Garmin 296 (w/ panel dock)=2C
King transponder=2C
Icom A200 com radio=2C and Dynon D10A EFIS. The panel that runs along the
front of the
windscreen will have the rest of the instruments (like airspeed=2C rate of
climb=2C tach=2C clock=2C etc.)
Hard to get a lot done in this heat and humidity. I could lower my hange
r door and turn on
the A/C=2C but I like the lighting with the door up. I must be just a co
mplainer. I'd probably gripe
if my kids paid me back the money they owe me....with wrinkled hundred doll
ar bills.
Mike Welch
MkIII CX
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| Subject: | Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. |
It has two holes for the main wing spar,
If I remember correctly, the plans only call for one hole in the
middle of the tab. If your`s has two holes they either changed the
plans or it was a builder modification. I don`t know how changing to
the other hole will change the way it flies. Also my guess is, not
many of the FSII`s have two holes. I could be wrong, so this
information is worth what you paid for it. Lanny FSII N598LF
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I couldn't sleep worth a darn last night so I finished the landing video. I
hope this will give anyone transitioning to the Mk III a good idea of what
the sight picture is like as you fly base, turn to final, and land.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQ-YaW9WgEU
Rick Girard
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
I don't know Mike, a badly driven rivet and you've got a lot of work to
drill it out. I'd recommend 5/32" stainless steel rivets (go to
mcmaster.comfor them) Going from memory the have about a 500 lb shear
strength and to
remove a bad one all you have to do is drill off the head and pull them out
from the boom tube's ID. Not to mention that learning to do a good driven
rivet takes time to learn to do, and pull rivets are pretty simple. If I
were really concerned I'd go to a Cherry Max that retains the mandrel but
that take a whole different puller than a regular pop rivet.
Good call on the fix it and make it right, guys.
Rick Girard
On Sun, Aug 8, 2010 at 3:11 PM, Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > You might not even need to go to 3/16" rivets, you might even be able to
> get by with 5/32" rivets. And it wouldn't hurt to drill the hole to 5/32"
> and see what it looked like, if it doesn't look sufficient, go to 3/16".
> >
> > Richard Pike
> > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> Richard,
>
> Yeah, I forgot about 5/32 rivets. I think you're probably right, the
> offset is likely to be
> so small that a cleanup with a 5/32nd drilbit would take care of
> everything.
>
>
> While we're talking about rivets and such, the fact of the matter is I'd
> probably use those 5/32"
> DRIVEN rivets. Why not? You've got pretty good access for your bucking
> bar. I know pop
> rivets could work, but if I was doing what Chris needs to do, I'd just
> drive the rivets.
> Especially considering the fact I have all the proper pneumatic stuff
> (rivet gun and loads of
> bucking bars) and a gazillion drive rivets. FWIW.
>
> At any rate, that's what I'd do.
>
> I spent the day out in my shop (finally) fabricating the center radio
> console. Hot and
> humid as heck. Center console will have the Garmin 296 (w/ panel dock),
> King transponder,
> Icom A200 com radio, and Dynon D10A EFIS. The panel that runs along the
> front of the
> windscreen will have the rest of the instruments (like airspeed, rate of
> climb, tach, clock, etc.)
>
> Hard to get a lot done in this heat and humidity. I could lower my
> hanger door and turn on
> the A/C, but I like the lighting with the door up. I must be just a
> complainer. I'd probably gripe
> if my kids paid me back the money they owe me....with wrinkled hundred
> dollar bills.
>
> Mike Welch
> MkIII CX
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. |
This is one that needs to be talked over with Travis and the guys at the
factory, IMHO.
Assuming you would get a similar effect that the Mark IIIX gets, lowering
the angle of incidence will raise the nose of the fuselage. The wing has to
fly at a given angle to produce lift based on airspeed so the only thing
that can change is the angle of the fuselage.
Rick Girard
On Sun, Aug 8, 2010 at 3:40 PM, Lanny Fetterman <donaho1@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> It has two holes for the main wing spar,
> If I remember correctly, the plans only call for one hole in the middle of
> the tab. If your`s has two holes they either changed the plans or it was a
> builder modification. I don`t know how changing to the other hole will
> change the way it flies. Also my guess is, not many of the FSII`s have two
> holes. I could be wrong, so this information is worth what you paid for it.
> Lanny FSII N598LF
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. |
The lower wing incidence will make the tailwheel hit the runway even sooner when
landing making a flare even more impossible.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=307983#307983
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| Subject: | Re: Complete re-paint of Kolb. |
I would suggest that to get the best info straight from the horse's mouth, call
these guys - Jim & Dondi Miller
http://www.aircrafttechsupport.com/
They would come to the Kolb fly-ins and do covering seminars, they know more about
Stits than probably anybody, and they are very nice people who graciously
answer even stupid questions. (Guess how I know that?)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=307984#307984
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| Subject: | Re: Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. |
Hmm...kind of worries me now. The kit was built in 1996/97 if that makes any difference
(if it was diff then).
I really hope it wasnt just a modification :(
Eugene does your kolb have these two holes?
Does anyone else have two holes? Ill have to check the plans tomorrow...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=307985#307985
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| Subject: | Re: Complete re-paint of Kolb. |
Best way to learn what questions to ask is to get the Polyfiber manual. You
can get it from Spruce. Unless you have Aerothane you could use rejuvenator
and save yourself a bunch of time and money and keep from adding a weight to
your airplane. If you have Aerothane you'll have to strip the aircraft and
re-cover. Guess how I know that one?
Rick Girard
Saving to re-cover Zulu Delta
On Sun, Aug 8, 2010 at 8:24 PM, Richard Pike <richard@bcchapel.org> wrote:
>
> I would suggest that to get the best info straight from the horse's mouth,
> call these guys - Jim & Dondi Miller
> http://www.aircrafttechsupport.com/
> They would come to the Kolb fly-ins and do covering seminars, they know
> more about Stits than probably anybody, and they are very nice people who
> graciously answer even stupid questions. (Guess how I know that?)
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=307984#307984
>
>
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| Subject: | Complete re-paint of Kolb. |
Brother 242:
When you say "poly process" I assume you mean the color coats are Poly Tone
and not the Stits poly process gloss Aerothane... If you have the poly
tone, you can work with it without a recovering.
Suggest you get a copy of the Stits Poly Process manual "How to Cover an
Aircraft".
See Appendix F... on rejuvenation of poly tone... Following rejuvenation,
the
book sez you can finish off the process with a fresh color coat of poly
tone.
It doesn't say, but I would guess it might be a good idea to use the same
color as the original paint,
and I would suspect fancy stripes and designs on the old paint could have
the potential to be entertaining
if hit with a tad too much rejuvenator...
Might be worth a call to the Stits Poly works.
Worth what ye paid fer it...
Beauford
FF- 076
Brandon, FL
-----Original Message-----
My kolb is currently in need of some patches and paint in quite a few areas.
Its to the point where it would be nice to just repaint the entire airplane.
Its done with the poly process.
What would be the best way about repainting the entire airplane? Is it
necessary to completely remove the paint down to the fabric? Or would just a
light sanding do the trick? The fabric itself (other than the holes, bad
touch ups and lots of hanger rash lol)....is in good shape. I just want it
to be pretty again.
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: inching ever closer to first flight |
Great job and good luck with the flight testing... :D
--------
2000 Firestar II
R503 DCDI
VLS 750
2010 Waiex
Jabiru 3300
1980 Quickie 1
Electric?
Needs restoration!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=307997#307997
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| Subject: | Re: Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. |
I believe any hole that is there was put there by the builder or a subsequent owner
modifier.
I may be wrong but It is my opinion that Kolb did not drill any wing attach holes
for the wing spar attach points. At least that was the case on all the kolb
planes I built.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308000#308000
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| Subject: | Re: Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. |
>
> The lower wing incidence will make the tailwheel hit the runway even
> sooner when landing making a flare even more impossible.
Gene/Folks:
One of the first things I noticed first time I flew Sling Shot was the
exagerated tail low attitude of the SS at slow speeds caused by much less
wing incidence than I was familiar with in the other model Kolbs.
Pull on the flaperons and it leveled up pretty good.
john h
mkIII - Learning to walk before I can fly again. ;-)
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. |
>
> Hmm...kind of worries me now. The kit was built in 1996/97 if that makes
> any difference (if it was diff then).
>
> I really hope it wasnt just a modification :(
>
> Eugene does your kolb have these two holes?
>
> Does anyone else have two holes? Ill have to check the plans tomorrow...
gotime242/Folks:
Sounds like your builder made a mistake when he originally rigged the wings,
then went back and corrected it, or....he was experimenting with less wing
incidence to see the difference in flight characteristics and performance.
Just a big ole guess.
john h
mkIII
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. |
Crap. Wish i never asked now, because thats a little unsettling. Oh well....it
still flies well.
Here is a pic:
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308005#308005
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscf0145_155.jpg
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Landing video |
Rick,
I enjoyed the video. Reminds me of the time I talked my GA flight
instructor to go for a ride with me in my Mark III, to sign me off on a
solo. I took it up to pattern altitude, kept it flying level until the
numbers were starting to disappear under the nose, pulled full flaps and
hit the numbers. I thought I did pretty well, but my instructor had been
trying to climb out through the top of the wing and he was quite white.
He did sign me off, but wouldn't fly with me again in it.
Larry
Note: If you forward this email, please delete the forwarding history,
which includes my email address.
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
You mentioned that your horizontal stabilizers are off a total of 2 inches or 1
inch on each side. If your vertical stabilizer is 0.5 inch off, how is it that
your horizontal stabilizers are off 1 inch on each side? That would be correct
only if each horizontal stabilizer was twice as long as the vertical stabilize
is tall. They are roughly the same size.
Check to see if you have not accidentally swapped horizontal stabilizer support
cables from side to side. Again, 0.5 inch error at the tip is NO BIG DEAL.
It amounts to about .030 at the boom tube. Forget it and go fly.
--------
Jerry King
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308011#308011
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| Subject: | Re: Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. |
- One of my sets of wings for the Firestar had three holes to set inciden
ce.- I asked about it, and somebody said to use the center hole, but the
others could be used without any problem.- Just a matter of fine tuning,
I guess.
-
-------------------------
--------- Bill Sullivan
-------------------------
--------- Windsor Locks, Ct.
-------------------------
--------- FS 447
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| Subject: | Re: Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. |
I'd say the original builder screwed up when he drilled the upper hole and
corrected it. Both my Mk III and my Firestar are drilled in approximately
the same as the lower hole. It's your experiment, but I'd leave it where you
have it if it was me. As Beauford says, "Worth what ye paid for it".
Rick Girard
On Sun, Aug 8, 2010 at 9:58 PM, gotime242 <dylanshine@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Crap. Wish i never asked now, because thats a little unsettling. Oh
> well....it still flies well.
>
> Here is a pic:
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308005#308005
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscf0145_155.jpg
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
Jerry, wouldn't it bind up the hinges, though? I've been trying to picture
this, but I think he's right to want to correct it. I agree with you that
the length of the wire's may play a role in all this, but from the info we
have it's difficult to factor it in.
Rick Girard
On Sun, Aug 8, 2010 at 10:42 PM, racerjerry <gki@suffolk.lib.ny.us> wrote:
>
> You mentioned that your horizontal stabilizers are off a total of 2 inches
> or 1 inch on each side. If your vertical stabilizer is 0.5 inch off, how is
> it that your horizontal stabilizers are off 1 inch on each side? That would
> be correct only if each horizontal stabilizer was twice as long as the
> vertical stabilize is tall. They are roughly the same size.
>
> Check to see if you have not accidentally swapped horizontal stabilizer
> support cables from side to side. Again, 0.5 inch error at the tip is NO
> BIG DEAL. It amounts to about .030 at the boom tube. Forget it and go fly.
>
> --------
> Jerry King
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308011#308011
>
>
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