Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:44 AM - Re: Landing video (Thom Riddle)
2. 05:56 AM - Do you fly over hostile terrain that you can't land on? (grantr)
3. 05:56 AM - phone number (Jmmy Hankinson)
4. 06:49 AM - Re: Kolb-List... "gotime 242... (Bob Green)
5. 07:13 AM - Re: phone number (John Hauck)
6. 07:32 AM - Re: Do you fly over hostile terrain that you can't land on? (George Myers)
7. 07:46 AM - Re: Do you fly over hostile terrain that you can't land on? (gotime242)
8. 08:17 AM - Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (Chris_A)
9. 08:41 AM - Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (Richard Pike)
10. 09:21 AM - Re: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (chris davis)
11. 09:32 AM - Re: inching ever closer to first flight (Dana Hague)
12. 09:39 AM - Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (Chris_A)
13. 09:59 AM - Re: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (Mike Welch)
14. 10:08 AM - tires for MKIIIC (Dawn Pistocchi)
15. 10:24 AM - Warp Prop Blade Angle Setting (mark rinehart)
16. 10:34 AM - Re: Do you fly over hostile terrain that you can't land on? (John Hauck)
17. 11:01 AM - Re: Do you fly over hostile terrain that you can't land on? (gotime242)
18. 11:02 AM - Re: Re: Do you fly over hostile terrain that you can't land on? (John Hauck)
19. 11:27 AM - Re: Do you fly over hostile terrain that you can't land on? (gotime242)
20. 11:50 AM - Re: Warp Prop Blade Angle Setting (Tom Longo)
21. 11:55 AM - Re: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (william sullivan)
22. 12:10 PM - Re: Warp Prop Blade Angle Setting (John Hauck)
23. 12:30 PM - Re: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (John Hauck)
24. 01:33 PM - Re: Do you fly over hostile terrain that you can't land on? (Dana Hague)
25. 01:36 PM - Re: tires for MKIIIC (John Hauck)
26. 01:39 PM - Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (william sullivan)
27. 01:43 PM - Re: Gap seal (william sullivan)
28. 02:03 PM - Re: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (John Hauck)
29. 02:24 PM - Gap seal (Jmmy Hankinson)
30. 03:30 PM - Re: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (Jack Carillon)
31. 04:08 PM - Re: Warp Prop Blade Angle Setting (Ellery Batchelder Jr)
32. 05:22 PM - Re: Re: Do you fly over hostile terrain that you can't land on? (Gene & Tammy)
33. 05:22 PM - Re: Re: Landing video (Richard Girard)
34. 05:36 PM - Re: Re: Landing video (John Hauck)
35. 05:47 PM - Re: Re: Gap seal (Vic)
36. 06:21 PM - Re: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (Gene & Tammy)
37. 06:22 PM - Re: Re: Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. (Eugene Zimmerman)
38. 06:34 PM - Re: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (John Hauck)
39. 06:36 PM - Re: Re: Gap seal (Dana Hague)
40. 06:39 PM - Re: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (Gene & Tammy)
41. 06:47 PM - Re: UltraStar tailwheel strut (Dana Hague)
42. 06:49 PM - Re: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (John Hauck)
43. 06:53 PM - Re: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (John Hauck)
44. 06:58 PM - Re: Oshkosh (gliderx5@comcast.net)
45. 07:42 PM - Re: Re: Kolb-List... "gotime 242... (Richard Girard)
46. 07:44 PM - Re: Re: Landing video (Richard Girard)
47. 07:49 PM - Re: Re: Landing video (Richard Girard)
48. 08:00 PM - Re: Re: Landing video (John Hauck)
49. 08:09 PM - Re: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (Richard Girard)
50. 08:14 PM - Re: Re: Landing video (Richard Girard)
51. 08:19 PM - Re: Gap seal (Richard Girard)
52. 08:41 PM - Re: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment (Richard Girard)
53. 09:36 PM - Re: Re: Landing video (John Hauck)
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Subject: | Re: Landing video |
Good job on the landings video, Rick. Your full flap approach looks a lot like
the no flap approach in my Slingshot.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY (9G0)
Kolb Slingshot SS-021
Jabiru 2200A #1574
Tennessee Prop 64x32
The truth will set you free. But first, it will piss you off.
- Gloria Steinem
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Subject: | Do you fly over hostile terrain that you can't land on? |
I know some of the areas some of you live in are filled with trees. So how do you
fly?
I was taught to not fly over anything that I couldnt land on because at some point
the engine will fail. I have been sticking to this but there are times I would
like to cross that patch of woods to get somewhere else without climbing
to the moon to do it or having to fly miles out of the way just to go around it.
I am not sure how landing in trees would turn out well at all, especially pine
trees.
Ive been talking with a buddy who is a CFI and he says he does not worry about
it and flys over whatever to get where he is going. He feels a properly maintained
aircraft engine is reliably enough to trust plus the Cessna will glide well.
He has never had an engine out either.
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Would someone give me the number of Brian at Kobe.
Do not archive
Jimmy Hankinson
Rocky Ford, Ga.
912 863 7384
N6007L, Firefly
JYL Sylvania, Ga.
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Subject: | RE: Kolb-List... "gotime 242... |
Congratulations on owning a KOLB.
Say, I deal with Aircraft Spruce and they are great people but when it comes to
fabric, covering, etc I deal with Jim and Dondi Miller at Aircraft Technical
Support. The reason is that Jim and Dondi are available 6 days a week and encourage
folk with questions to call them. They are very professional but very
personable and take the time with customers. 1-877-877-3334. They sell the
poly-stits materials at very reasonable rates. I think they are close to AS's
prices if not better.
Personally, I would take the areas needing patches down to the fabric using MEK.
Be careful about "sanding" The top coats (poly-spray and poly-paints) do take
sanding but the poly-brush does not. It is easy to sand into the fabric at
some point. If your coating has a good base, a good dose of poly-brush and
3 cross coats of poly-spray, I would not remove it all over the plane. A lot
depends on the finish coat... poly-tone or poly-urethane. You can tell poly-tone
from poly-urethane... ploy-tone is softer and can be removed with MEK. Poly
urethane is glossy and does not respond to MEK as readily. Ask Jim or Doni
but I am pretty sure that on poly-tone you could probably prep for repainting
by washing and then wiping with the "cleaner" (C-2200) followed by wiping with
a "tach" cloth. Depending on the age of the coatings, there is also a rejuvenator
(RJ-1200) that can be used to rejuvenate the paint.
Best advice is call Jim and Dondi. They are glad to answer questions and can
send you a booklet telling about all you need to know. I have worked with poly-stats
on my Mark III but also on patching my Aeronca Champ. Great stuff.
As always... this is just my opinion. Everyone needs to do what they think best.
Bob
Time: 11:33:01 AM PST US
Subject: Kolb-List: Complete re-paint of Kolb.
From: "gotime242" <dylanshine@gmail.com>
Hello again...
My kolb is currently in need of some patches and paint in quite a few areas. Its
to the point where it would be nice to just repaint the entire airplane.
Its done with the poly process. I just ordered a patch kit from ac spruce (will
be my first time working with fabric...hope it goes well).
What would be the best way about repainting the entire airplane? Is it necessary
to completely remove the paint down to the fabric? Or would just a light sanding
do the trick? The fabric itself (other than the holes, bad touch ups and
lots of hanger rash lol)....is in good shape. I just want it to be pretty again.
Thanks!
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________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________
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Subject: | Re: phone number |
606-862-9692
This is Kolb Aircraft's number. It will probably be answered by Travis
Brown, but he can get you to Bryan.
john h
mkIII
Would someone give me the number of Brian at Kobe.
Do not archive
Jimmy Hankinson
Rocky Ford, Ga.
912 863 7384
N6007L, Firefly
JYL Sylvania, Ga.
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Subject: | Do you fly over hostile terrain that you can't land on? |
Your buddy is correct in the sense that if an engine quits it is not maintained
well. BUT they do. Mine have. For different reasons. The only thing keeping the
sweat off my face when I'm flying over trees is that big fan behind me.
George E. Myers Jr.
Twinstar 582
San Marcos, TX 78666
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of grantr
Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 7:56 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Do you fly over hostile terrain that you can't land on?
I know some of the areas some of you live in are filled with trees. So how do you
fly?
I was taught to not fly over anything that I couldnt land on because at some point
the engine will fail. I have been sticking to this but there are times I would
like to cross that patch of woods to get somewhere else without climbing
to the moon to do it or having to fly miles out of the way just to go around it.
I am not sure how landing in trees would turn out well at all, especially pine
trees.
Ive been talking with a buddy who is a CFI and he says he does not worry about
it and flys over whatever to get where he is going. He feels a properly maintained
aircraft engine is reliably enough to trust plus the Cessna will glide well.
He has never had an engine out either.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308036#308036
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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Subject: | Re: Do you fly over hostile terrain that you can't land on? |
Well...i suppose the argument there would be the reliability of a cessna flown
by a cfi vs an amateur built experimental.
I too am a GA pilot...and for the last many years have flown over countless terrain
that i couldn't land on...but thats kind of the point of why i was flying.
I also fly a learjet for a living, and a lot of the time i couldnt tell you what
kind of terrain is below me because i cant even see it...flying in IMC, at night,
over water all at 410. But again...its a different airplane.
I am new to the kolb, but will be flying it out of a populated area/ decent size
city. I have actually only left the pattern of the airport once, and i flew
over a road while looking around for a landing spot literally ever 10 seconds.
I would say yeah....its always a good idea to fly over an area you can land in...but
i dont think short hops over areas that you cant are out of the question.
At least it will make things more exciting for a bit, and probably open up a
whole new world of places to go.
If airplanes never were meant to fly over places they couldn't land on, there probably
wouldn't be much point to them. But...its all kinda different depending
on who you ask and if they are flying a kolb...cessna...learjet...space shuttle...or
whatever.
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Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
Hi Guys,
Thanks for all the in put with my issue. I spent yesterday with a tape measure
and a level and I came to several realizations.
One: Although this firestar is extremely well built, I can't find a level spot
on the thing including the factory welded cage. No amount of shimming would produce
a level reading at any two points. I hung the plane by the CG off the rafters
in the shop and shimmed the tires with blocks, then shimmed the tail stand.
No luck.
Two: The plane leans counter clockwise .5" resting on level ground with the tires
at any and equal pressure. I measured off the either side of the cage, being
it was welded in a jig and should therefore be square. (see#1) This was confirmed
with both a tape measure and by the angled wear on the tail wheel. I can
not see any bend in the gear and they are exactly the same length. I did the
repair with the plane suspended and leveled it with a plumb bob off the prop shaft.
So in the air the top center line of the tube is properly located off the
shaft.
Three: After the tail boom was assembled I set the plane back on the ground and
it resumed it's .5" counter clockwise list. At the time I didn't realize this.
Four: I still managed to get the tail ring off center. After I made an absolutely
level/flat spot I measured from the ground to the bottom of the horizontal
control horn at each end just before the welds. (With the plane as level as I
could get it with the plumb bob off shaft) There is a .125" difference end to
end. I am however positive that the top forward bracket for the vertical is absolutely,
dead nuts centered on the tube. I believe I got the bottom one off less
than 1/8 but I can't find a good way to measure it. I must have canted the
ring, thinking the front brackets were enough to keep it centered.
Five: I never pulled the tail brace wires off the horizontals, nor did I tighten/loosen
the turn buckles(safety wired). After I really got looking at them I
noticed the top two where different lengths. 1.5" to be exact. Well I switched
them around and now the horizontals are within .250 of each other so I cut the
safety wire and adjusted them until both side were equal. I still have a lot
of play left in both turn buckles. I have come to the conclusion that the tail
was never really square and I had no reason to notice it.
I know I centered all the holes as well as anyone could. Using the lexan template
I hit every single hole in the H-brace dead on. I think I had several factors
working against me. The biggest was thinking the front brackets were enough
to center the ring.
So with the brace wires switched and the plane raised .5" clockwise everything
is and looks square except for the horizontal control horn. There is no binding
in any of the controls what so ever. I am still considering pulling the rivets
but I really think what I have now is closer than it was before and it flew
great then.
What do you guys think?
Thanks
Chris
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Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
I think if there is zero binding with the measurements as you describe, you have
fixed your problem.
Of course, you need to bear in mind where I am coming from. What I am working on
putting back together doesn't have anything level in it's cage either...
As Dear Old Dad used to say, "A man on a horse at thirty yards probably won't notice
it."
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
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Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
Chris , I think youhave your aircraft well within acceptable limitsfor the
speeds at which we fly , the 1.5 inch difference in your cables was most likely
the most out of whack measurement that you had and you fixed that ! With your
measurements within 1/8 inch and considering the fact that I never had my tail
wires so tight that I couldn't move my horizontal stabilizer1/8 inch up and
down I think you shouldbe all right . just my 2 cents. Chris
Chris Davis
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly
----- Original Message ----
From: Chris_A <50calibercruiser@cox.net>
Sent: Mon, August 9, 2010 11:17:29 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment
Hi Guys,
Thanks for all the in put with my issue. I spent yesterday with a tape measure
and a level and I came to several realizations.
One: Although this firestar is extremely well built, I can't find a level spot
on the thing including the factory welded cage. No amount of shimming would
produce a level reading at any two points. I hung the plane by the CG off the
rafters in the shop and shimmed the tires with blocks, then shimmed the tail
stand. No luck.
Two: The plane leans counter clockwise .5" resting on level ground with the
tires at any and equal pressure. I measured off the either side of the cage,
being it was welded in a jig and should therefore be square. (see#1) This was
confirmed with both a tape measure and by the angled wear on the tail wheel. I
can not see any bend in the gear and they are exactly the same length. I did the
repair with the plane suspended and leveled it with a plumb bob off the prop
shaft. So in the air the top center line of the tube is properly located off the
shaft.
Three: After the tail boom was assembled I set the plane back on the ground and
it resumed it's .5" counter clockwise list. At the time I didn't realize this.
Four: I still managed to get the tail ring off center. After I made an
absolutely level/flat spot I measured from the ground to the bottom of the
horizontal control horn at each end just before the welds. (With the plane as
level as I could get it with the plumb bob off shaft) There is a .125"
difference end to end. I am however positive that the top forward bracket for
the vertical is absolutely, dead nuts centered on the tube. I believe I got the
bottom one off less than 1/8 but I can't find a good way to measure it. I must
have canted the ring, thinking the front brackets were enough to keep it
centered.
Five: I never pulled the tail brace wires off the horizontals, nor did I
tighten/loosen the turn buckles(safety wired). After I really got looking at
them I noticed the top two where different lengths. 1.5" to be exact. Well I
switched them around and now the horizontals are within .250 of each other so I
cut the safety wire and adjusted them until both side were equal. I still have
a
lot of play left in both turn buckles. I have come to the conclusion that the
tail was never really square and I had no reason to notice it.
I know I centered all the holes as well as anyone could. Using the lexan
template I hit every single hole in the H-brace dead on. I think I had several
factors working against me. The biggest was thinking the front brackets were
enough to center the ring.
So with the brace wires switched and the plane raised .5" clockwise everything
is and looks square except for the horizontal control horn. There is no binding
in any of the controls what so ever. I am still considering pulling the rivets
but I really think what I have now is closer than it was before and it flew
great then.
What do you guys think?
Thanks
Chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308054#308054
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Subject: | Re: inching ever closer to first flight |
--------------------------------------------------
Bob Kravis <bob.kravis@gmail.com> wrote:
(08/08/2010 12:41)
> 2. The ICOM A24 breaks squelch when the master switch in on whether the
> engine is running or not, and whether the rubber duck antenna or the
> external antenna is attached. I am not sure how to track the problem down.
> The unit is powered by internal batteries not the planes electrical. The
> planes electrical system include a Kuntzleman Hot Box.
I don't know if it's your problem, but make sure the radio's ANL
function is enabled. This was necessary on mine.
> 4. Trim tabs for the rudder, aileron and elevator were spec'ed and Kolb
> instructed installing them by riveting to the ribs in each location. This
> seems like it would be very hard to do right as the ribs, in the rudder for
> example are 5/16x.032 wall. Very little room for error!
Just gotta be careful, I guess... I didn't have any trouble on my US.
I drilled and tapped for 4-40 screws instead of rivets, though, so I
could remove them if necessary.
-Dana
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Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
Richard,
Is that your Kolb? That's the one that hit the fence and went nose over correct?
I think it's going to need a new tail boom!
I think I will stop worrying about a .5" and go flying.
Thanks for every ones input.
Chris
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Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
Chris=2C
Did you say Lexan" template?? Ah HAH!! You were listening!!!
Regarding your comment about how to check of the underside vertical stabi
lizer mount being EXACTLY
180 degrees from the top=2C try this=3B
Get a long piece of construction paper (approx 24")=2C cut it to be abou
t 1-2" wide. Wrap the boomtube
very snugley with the paper strip=2C where they run past each other=2C not
overlapping each other. Make a
mark with a pen on BOTH pieces anywhere where they are side by side. Remov
e the long strip of paper.
Those two marks are exactly the boomtube's circumference. Cut off excess
paper strip at 90 deg angle
at each pen mark.
Next=2C you need to find the paper's midpoint=2C so fold it to create a c
rease which will be exactly 1/2 of the boomtube's
circumference=2C and make another pen mark at this midpoint crease.
Lastly=2C put your paper back on the boomtube=2C centering the ends at th
e top mount=2C with the cut ends butted together=2C
and tape the strip securely!! If you look underneath=2C at your midpoint m
ark=2C you will see EXACTLY where 180
degrees of your top mark is.
Regarding you empennage situation=3B were you saying "it's close enough
=2C now"?
Mike Welch
> Hi Guys=2C
>
> Thanks for all the in put with my issue. I spent yesterday with a tape me
asure and a level and I came to several realizations.
>
> One: Although this firestar is extremely well built=2C I can't find a lev
el spot on the thing including the factory welded cage. No amount of shimmi
ng would produce a level reading at any two points. I hung the plane by the
CG off the rafters in the shop and shimmed the tires with blocks=2C then s
himmed the tail stand. No luck.
>
> Two: The plane leans counter clockwise .5" resting on level ground with t
he tires at any and equal pressure. I measured off the either side of the c
age=2C being it was welded in a jig and should therefore be square. (see#1)
This was confirmed with both a tape measure and by the angled wear on the
tail wheel. I can not see any bend in the gear and they are exactly the sam
e length. I did the repair with the plane suspended and leveled it with a p
lumb bob off the prop shaft. So in the air the top center line of the tube
is properly located off the shaft.
>
> Three: After the tail boom was assembled I set the plane back on the grou
nd and it resumed it's .5" counter clockwise list. At the time I didn't rea
lize this.
>
> Four: I still managed to get the tail ring off center. After I made an ab
solutely level/flat spot I measured from the ground to the bottom of the ho
rizontal control horn at each end just before the welds. (With the plane as
level as I could get it with the plumb bob off shaft) There is a .125" dif
ference end to end. I am however positive that the top forward bracket for
the vertical is absolutely=2C dead nuts centered on the tube. I believe I g
ot the bottom one off less than 1/8 but I can't find a good way to measure
it. I must have canted the ring=2C thinking the front brackets were enough
to keep it centered.
>
> Five: I never pulled the tail brace wires off the horizontals=2C nor did
I tighten/loosen the turn buckles(safety wired). After I really got looking
at them I noticed the top two where different lengths. 1.5" to be exact. W
ell I switched them around and now the horizontals are within .250 of each
other so I cut the safety wire and adjusted them until both side were equal
. I still have a lot of play left in both turn buckles. I have come to the
conclusion that the tail was never really square and I had no reason to not
ice it.
>
> I know I centered all the holes as well as anyone could. Using the lexan
template I hit every single hole in the H-brace dead on. I think I had seve
ral factors working against me. The biggest was thinking the front brackets
were enough to center the ring.
>
> So with the brace wires switched and the plane raised .5" clockwise every
thing is and looks square except for the horizontal control horn. There is
no binding in any of the controls what so ever. I am still considering pull
ing the rivets but I really think what I have now is closer than it was bef
ore and it flew great then.
>
> What do you guys think?
>
> Thanks
> Chris
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308054#308054
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
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Subject: | tires for MKIIIC |
Any recommendations where to buy tires for my MarkIIIC? The tires on
there now are marked "15/600-6 tubeless". Is it important I keep
tubeless ones?
BTW, thanks for the input on the cracked oil reservoir cap. I'm being
very careful with #3! The folks at Leading Edge Air Foils are trying
to see if they can cover it under warranty.
Thanks!
Dawn
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Subject: | Warp Prop Blade Angle Setting |
Getting ready to fireup my Rotax 582 for the first time. I've got a 66", 3-blade
warp prop with a 2.62 C-box. For those of you with similar props, what blade
angle should I set at the tip before first fire-up to ensure I don't overspeed
the engine? Thanks.
Mark Rinehart
Mark III Classic
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Subject: | Re: Do you fly over hostile terrain that you can't land on? |
> Your buddy is correct in the sense that if an engine quits it is not
maintained well. BUT they do. Mine have. For different reasons. The only
thing keeping the sweat off my face when I'm flying over trees is that
big fan behind me.
>
> George E. Myers Jr.
They all quit.
Not a matter if, but when.
john h
mkIII
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Subject: | Re: Do you fly over hostile terrain that you can't land on? |
[quote="John Hauck"]
They all quit.
Not a matter if, but when.
john h
mkIII
> [b]
:::sells kolb:::
lol
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308082#308082
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Subject: | Re: Do you fly over hostile terrain that you can't land |
on?
>
> Well...i suppose the argument there would be the reliability of a cessna
> flown by a cfi vs an amateur built experimental.
You need to sign your posts and tell us who you are, if you are new to the
Kolb List.
What is the argument? I feel a lot more comfortable flying my own
experimental than I do GA airplanes. It has proven itself to be a very
reliable, safe airplane over the years.
I have flown over many miles of hostile terrain. I accept the fact that if
the motor stops, I am going to hurt badly or worse, and my airplane will be
torn up.
john h
mkIII
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Subject: | Re: Do you fly over hostile terrain that you can't land on? |
John Hauck wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Well...i suppose the argument there would be the reliability of a cessna
> > flown by a cfi vs an amateur built experimental.
> >
> >
>
>
> You need to sign your posts and tell us who you are, if you are new to the
> Kolb List.
>
> What is the argument? I feel a lot more comfortable flying my own
> experimental than I do GA airplanes. It has proven itself to be a very
> reliable, safe airplane over the years.
>
> I have flown over many miles of hostile terrain. I accept the fact that if
> the motor stops, I am going to hurt badly or worse, and my airplane will be
> torn up.
>
> john h
> mkIII
Im saying if there WAS an argument between "Fly over terrain" or "Dont fly over
terrain"...that would be it. Im glad you feel that way about your plane, i honestly
cant wait until i feel the same.
For the moment though i dont have enough time in the kolb to feel one way or the
other. Thats why i can only speculate about these potential arguments. I do
everything i can right now to make sure my kolb is reliable...but like they say...it
will probably quit eventually anyway, and when it does i probably wont
be too surprised.
Like you said....these are just facts that we have to accept to do what we do.
-Dylan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308086#308086
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Subject: | Warp Prop Blade Angle Setting |
9.5 Deg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of mark rinehart
Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 1:23 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Warp Prop Blade Angle Setting
Getting ready to fireup my Rotax 582 for the first time. I've got a 66",
3-blade warp prop with a 2.62 C-box. For those of you with similar props,
what blade angle should I set at the tip before first fire-up to ensure I
don't overspeed the engine? Thanks.
Mark Rinehart
Mark III Classic
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
00:45:00
--
We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam.
The Professional version does not have this message
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
--- On Mon, 8/9/10, Chris_A <50calibercruiser@cox.net> wrote:
So with the brace wires switched and the plane raised .5" clockwise everyth
ing is and looks square except for the horizontal control horn. There is no
binding in any of the controls what so ever. I am still considering pullin
g the rivets but I really think what I have now is closer than it was befor
e and it flew great then.
What do you guys think?
Thanks
- Chris
- Chris- One of the guys once did some video of his tail in flight, and y
ou wouldn't believe how much it twists and thrashes around.- Much more th
an an inch or so.- Just put it together, and fly.
- On my rebuild of the Firestar, I noticed that the original cage wasn't
absolutely precise.- When I re-did the cage, it's probably well within fa
ctory tolerance.- I once had occassion to measure about 30 IHC truck trac
tors, in order to rebuild a badly wrecked truck.- Every measurement was d
ifferent, sometimes as much as 1 1/2" side to side- locating the rear axles
!- As long as everything is solid, and reasonably square, don't worry abo
ut it.
- If someone can reference-you to those twisting tail-videos, I think
you will-feel much better.-
-
-------------------------
--------------------- Bill Sulliv
an
-------------------------
--------------------- Windsor Loc
ks, Ct.
-------------------------
--------------------- FS 447
le, List Admin.
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: Warp Prop Blade Angle Setting |
Getting ready to fireup my Rotax 582 for the first time. I've got a 66",
3-blade warp prop with a 2.62 C-box. For those of you with similar props,
what blade angle should I set at the tip before first fire-up to ensure I
don't overspeed the engine? Thanks.
Mark Rinehart
Mark III Classic
Mark R/Gang:
The throttle lever is also handy to prevent engine over speed.
john h
mkIII
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Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
If someone can reference you to those twisting tail videos, I think
you will feel much better.
Bill Sullivan
Windsor Locks, Ct.
FS 447
Bill S/Folks:
Most Kolbs I take a look at fly with the tail wires too loose. Most
of the tail shake and movement you talk about is caused by improperly
tensioned tail wires.
I snug mine up until they twang, not thump. I don't get all that tail
dance in the air.
john h
mkIII
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Subject: | Re: Do you fly over hostile terrain that you can't land on? |
I think everybody on this list would agree that it's bad to fly over
an area where you can't make an emergency landing. That said,
sometimes it's unavoidable. For many of us, especially those of us
who fly from short runways, there's an interval right after takeoff
where you're too high to land straight ahead, but not high enough to
turn around, if the engine quits. All you can do is to minimize the
exposure time.
If I have to cross forested areas (which is most of Connecticut), I
fly high, and I adjust my route to take me over, or at least not far
from, open areas where I can make a forced landing. Thus my cross
countries often look like a zigzag instead of a straight line.
European air regulations talk about "hostile terrain" and "exposure
times". There's actually a mathematical calculation involving
component reliability and "mean time between failures" to determine
what the acceptable exposure time is. For us, I guess we just have to
use our judgment.
-Dana
--------------------------------------------------
"grantr" <grant_richardson25@yahoo.com> wrote:
(08/09/2010 08:55)
>
> I know some of the areas some of you live in are filled with trees. So how do
you fly?
>
> I was taught to not fly over anything that I couldnt land on because at some
point the engine will fail. I have been sticking to this but there are times I
would like to cross that patch of woods to get somewhere else without climbing
to the moon to do it or having to fly miles out of the way just to go around
it.
>
> I am not sure how landing in trees would turn out well at all, especially pine
trees.
>
> Ive been talking with a buddy who is a CFI and he says he does not worry about
it...
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Subject: | Re: tires for MKIIIC |
Any recommendations where to buy tires for my MarkIIIC? The tires on
there now are marked "15/600-6 tubeless". Is it important I keep
tubeless ones?
BTW, thanks for the input on the cracked oil reservoir cap. I'm being
very careful with #3! The folks at Leading Edge Air Foils are trying
to see if they can cover it under warranty.
Thanks!
Dawn
Dawn/Folks:
I use tubes in my tubeless tires. Far less trouble with slow leaks.
Why not look around the house and other places for a cap that will fit your
oil reservoir. Bet there is one somewhere that will fit the bill.
john h
mkIII
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Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
- John- I think it might have been Larry Cottrel that did the video.- I
t does show an amazing amount of tail twisting, and I think it's the boom.
- Or, it might be some kind of illusion.- It is a very impressive piece
of footage.
-
-------------------------
------------------------ Bi
ll Sullivan
-------------------------
------------------------ Wi
ndsor Locks, Ct.
-------------------------
------------------------ FS
447
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- For the time being, I decided to make a flexible vinyl gap seal.--I
ran into an unexpected problem.- The adhesive on 3M brand velcro gets so
ft, and slips in the hot sun.- Anyone else have this problem, and what di
d you do to stop it?- Polytac?- Contact cement?- Sew it to the vinyl?
- It won't stay tight, and sags in the sun.
- If there isn't a way to secure it, I will go with aluminum or Lexan.
-
-------------------------
----------------- Bill Sullivan
-------------------------
----------------- Windsor Locks, Ct.
-------------------------
------------------FS 447
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Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
John- I think it might have been Larry Cottrel that did the video. It
does show an amazing amount of tail twisting, and I think it's the boom.
Or, it might be some kind of illusion. It is a very impressive piece of
footage.
Bill Sullivan
Windsor Locks, Ct.
FS 447
Bill S/Gang:
Very familiar with Larry C's FSII. Flown it, and helped a little bit when
it came to fine tuning it.
I still believe most tail section movement is caused by loose tail wires.
There is a lot of flex in the tailboom tube, but it won't flex unless
something else ask it to flex, like a tailsection that is dancing around
back there.
Next time you fly your Kolb, fly it with loose tail wires, and see how it
performs.
Then, tighten them down really good, then tighten some more. Go fly, check
the tail, and see if it hasn't been tamed a bit.
That is the way it works for me.
john h
mkIII
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I need to replace my Firefly wing gap seal, talked to Travis and they have
them available. They are white in color, mine is black.
They are made out of sail cloth, does anyone know if this can be painted?
Do not archive
Jimmy Hankinson
Rocky Ford, Ga.
912 863 7384
N6007L, Firefly
JYL Sylvania, Ga.
Message 30
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Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
william sullivan wrote:
> John- I think it might have been Larry Cottrel that did the video. It
> does show an amazing amount of tail twisting, and I think it's the
> boom. Or, it might be some kind of illusion. It is a very impressive
> piece of footage.
>
> Bill Sullivan
> Windsor Locks, Ct.
> FS 447
>
>
Bill and gang :
That video of the tail shake was by Chris Ambrose, Ces308
Goto YouTube and type in Ces308 and you will get his videos, There are a
couple showing the rear view. One is shot thru his plastic enclosure
which makes it look like the tail is really shaking bad. Another video
is taken without the enclosure, looks better.
Jack Carillon FSII Akron, oh.
Message 31
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Subject: | Re: Warp Prop Blade Angle Setting |
I am running the same engine and Prop I set my Prop at 9 Degrees and it
worked out great for me
MK3C
N213
582 Blue head E Box 66"Warp Drive
Ellery Batchelder Jr.
-----Original Message-----
From: mark rinehart <capt_riney@yahoo.com>
Sent: Mon, Aug 9, 2010 1:23 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: Warp Prop Blade Angle Setting
Getting ready to fireup my Rotax 582 for the first time. I've got a 66",
-blade warp prop with a 2.62 C-box. For those of you with similar props,
what
lade angle should I set at the tip before first fire-up to ensure I don't
verspeed the engine? Thanks.
Mark Rinehart
ark III Classic
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Subject: | Re: Do you fly over hostile terrain that you can't land |
on?
If one only flew where there was a good landing spot, then Alaska would
still be without airservice.
Gene
--------------------------------------------------
From: "gotime242" <dylanshine@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 9:46 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Do you fly over hostile terrain that you can't land
on?
>
> Well...i suppose the argument there would be the reliability of a cessna
> flown by a cfi vs an amateur built experimental.
>
> I too am a GA pilot...and for the last many years have flown over
> countless terrain that i couldn't land on...but thats kind of the point of
> why i was flying.
>
> I also fly a learjet for a living, and a lot of the time i couldnt tell
> you what kind of terrain is below me because i cant even see it...flying
> in IMC, at night, over water all at 410. But again...its a different
> airplane.
>
> I am new to the kolb, but will be flying it out of a populated area/
> decent size city. I have actually only left the pattern of the airport
> once, and i flew over a road while looking around for a landing spot
> literally ever 10 seconds.
>
> I would say yeah....its always a good idea to fly over an area you can
> land in...but i dont think short hops over areas that you cant are out of
> the question. At least it will make things more exciting for a bit, and
> probably open up a whole new world of places to go.
>
> If airplanes never were meant to fly over places they couldn't land on,
> there probably wouldn't be much point to them. But...its all kinda
> different depending on who you ask and if they are flying a
> kolb...cessna...learjet...space shuttle...or whatever.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308052#308052
>
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Landing video |
Thanks Thom. It does take some getting used to. I stressed the eye's
position so close to the ground because that was what was hardest for me to
overcome. I'd be feeling for the runway, get a little slow and spend the
evening renewing my friendship with Mr. Hydraulic Press. I just kept
practicing at it.
This another one I owe to Travis, who warned me about putting steel gear
legs until I was truly ready for fear of damaging the fuselage truss. Just
one of the many reasons I believe that Travis is a genius. He can tell you
something in that quiet, friendly, way of his that makes you except it
without thinking of anything but his kindness in sharing it with you.
If some of you haven't had the pleasure of meeting him, you are missing a
true treat. He, Denny, and the rest of their small crew is what makes this
community jell, IMHO.
These videos are a way I can pay back a little to those who have extended so
much to me since I joined the Kolb Klatch.
Rick
On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 6:43 AM, Thom Riddle <riddletr@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Good job on the landings video, Rick. Your full flap approach looks a lot
> like the no flap approach in my Slingshot.
>
> --------
> Thom Riddle
> Buffalo, NY (9G0)
> Kolb Slingshot SS-021
> Jabiru 2200A #1574
> Tennessee Prop 64x32
>
>
> The truth will set you free. But first, it will piss you off.
> - Gloria Steinem
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308029#308029
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Landing video |
Thanks Thom. It does take some getting used to. I stressed the eye's
position so close to the ground because that was what was hardest for me to
overcome. I'd be feeling for the runway, get a little slow and spend the
evening renewing my friendship with Mr. Hydraulic Press. I just kept
practicing at it.
Rick
Rick:
You looking at the ground or the runway a few two or three hundred yards
ahead of you?
I find landings work a lot better if I don't look at the ground.
john h
mkIII
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Bill
Velcro brand makes a high temp product. One is called Dashboard 175
Degree.
Google it.
Vic in Me.
912ul
Xtra
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Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
John, when you say "tail wires" are you talking about the stabilizer
wires?
I'm finding I am having issues with needing to keep left rudder all the
time in straight and level flight with my KXP. Other than a trim tab,
anyone have any ideas on correcting?
Thanks
Gene
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Subject: | Re: Two settings for wing Angle of Incidence. |
242,
In the picture, the hole that has the pin looks to me like it is in
the normal plans built position.
I'd guess someone tried to improve on Homer, and discovered Homer knew
what he was doing.
Gene,
On Aug 8, 2010, at 10:58 PM, gotime242 wrote:
> Crap. Wish i never asked now, because thats a little unsettling. Oh
> well....it still flies well.
>
> Here is a pic:
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Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
John, when you say "tail wires" are you talking about the stabilizer wires?
I'm finding I am having issues with needing to keep left rudder all the time
in straight and level flight with my KXP. Other than a trim tab, anyone
have any ideas on correcting?
Thanks
Gene
Gene/Gang:
I have found, since I started building and flying Kolbs, a rudder trim tab
works best.
Your mileage may vary.
john h
mkIII
hauck's holler, alabama
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At 04:43 PM 8/9/2010, william sullivan wrote:
> For the time being, I decided to make a flexible vinyl gap seal. I ran
> into an unexpected problem. The adhesive on 3M brand velcro gets soft,
> and slips in the hot sun. Anyone else have this problem, and what did
> you do to stop it? Polytac? Contact cement? Sew it to the vinyl? It
> won't stay tight, and sags in the sun.
I'm using velcro with an adhesive that's (according to McMaster, where I
got it from) specifically made for vinyl. Seems appropriate for both the
vinyl gap seal as well as for the Stits on the wing (which is also a vinyl
coating). Haven't had any problems in the sun.
-Dana
--
A computer lets you make more mistakes faster than any invention in
human history... with the possible exception of handguns and tequila.
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Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
John, any chance you can send me a photo. I don't wish to try to
reinvent the wheel. Do you use fixed or adjustable?
Gene
I have found, since I started building and flying Kolbs, a rudder trim
tab works best.
john h
mkIII
hauck's holler, alabama
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Subject: | Re: UltraStar tailwheel strut |
At 08:37 AM 7/13/2010, John Hauck wrote:
>Dana:
>
>Normalized 4130 steel tubing makes a very poor spring, unless heat
>treated, of course.
>
>The tail wheel strut should be a spring.
>
>I use .120" wall 4130 heat treated to 48 RC for my tail wheel strut on the
>mkIII. An US could use something with a thinner wall, like .090".
In the end I used a new tube of .058 4130, since the next size smaller tube
I'm splicing it with fits inside nicely. The inner tube is [I think] .035
wall. No heat treat; I figure it's more than twice as strong as the
original. Flew it today for the first time since fixing it, and it seems
to be holding up fine, though I'm on pavement now instead of the grass
field I was using.
-Dana
--
A computer lets you make more mistakes faster than any invention in
human history... with the possible exception of handguns and tequila.
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Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
Sorry, Gene, forgot to answer your first question.
I am talking about the tail wire bracing.
Guess I was so excited about being able to climb up on a 60 year old
McCormick W-9, fire it off after turning one cylinder, first time it has
cranked in more than three months. I got the airstrip cut, but the grass
was so thick I had to pull the 6' bush hog in 3d gear most of the time and
2d when it really got thick. This old McCormick has a lot of guts and
normally cut the airstrip in 4th, along with most of the pastures.
First time I have been on a tractor since I crashed my MTB. I could fly if
I could get the mkIII out of the hanger, but I need a medical and a BFR.
Not going to take a chance breaking my airplane until I am legal once again.
Depending on my old flight surgeon, I can get a medical if he will give me
one before I start walking without the walker or a cane. Got somebody lined
up to give me a BFR soon as I am ready, after the medical.
Life is good!
john h
mkIII
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck
Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment
John, when you say "tail wires" are you talking about the stabilizer wires?
I'm finding I am having issues with needing to keep left rudder all the time
in straight and level flight with my KXP. Other than a trim tab, anyone
have any ideas on correcting?
Thanks
Gene
Gene/Gang:
I have found, since I started building and flying Kolbs, a rudder trim tab
works best.
Your mileage may vary.
john h
mkIII
hauck's holler, alabama
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Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
Let me look on my computer. I am home, hauck's holler, for a few days.
The rudder trim tab we use on the mkIII's are about twice as large as you
would need on a Firestar.
Using .025" aluminum would make a nice easily adjustable tab.
If I can't find a photo, hopefully, someone else on the list with a Firestar
may be able to provide a copy.
john
John, any chance you can send me a photo. I don't wish to try to reinvent
the wheel. Do you use fixed or adjustable?
Gene
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I had my MKII there Monday evening through Friday morning. I only flew Wednesday
evening due to an combination of mis-communications with the volunteers, and
realizing that I did not have my registration with me. They said to be prepared
for a ramp check at the briefing. I decided after towing it out for 15 hours
that I would at least do a couple times around the patch, but I don't need anymore
dealings with the FAA.
I had really hoped to show the trailer and the Kolb together as an affordable solution
to flying, trailering, hangaring, and camping, but the Kolb and trailer
were about a 15 minute walk away from each other. A handful of folks did see
the unloading and loading, but it was a secret for the most part.
There was a MKIII Extra at the Kolb booth that look really nice.
Malcolm Morrison
http://home.comcast.net/~mmorrison123/kolb.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenrm@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 8, 2010 12:23:30 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Oshkosh
I drove to Oshkosh this year and glad I did. It was nice to see the Kolb factory
trailer in the light plane area again but it just isn't the same. They don't
allow camping with your plane on the south west side of the strip any more. They
have moved the fence and they now allow trailer camping where we used to camp
with our planes. Funny how they figured out how to get trash and toilets in
there when they couldn't do that for us plane campers. Light plane camping is
now only allowed near the red barn and you have to drag your plane through the
crowds of people to your camping spot hundreds of feet from the runway. It
works for the factory planes with a team of helpers but not for individual pilots.
There were three Kolbs in the camping area but only the firestar flew much. No
factory planes were there.
Rick Neilsen
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Subject: | Re: RE: Kolb-List... "gotime 242... |
Bob, I agree with what you say although I've never done any business with
Jim and Dondi. Many people on this list recommend them, too. Here in Kansas
we have a Polyfiber distributor at Mound Ridge. I can drive there and get my
supplies, ask questions and save the shipping costs.
That being said I've not seen anyone remind this fellow (it would be nice to
know your name, rather than a computer moniker, by the way) that the very
first step should be to test the fabric to see if it is worthy of the effort
of doing anything with it. If it won't pass the test described in Appendix F
of the Polyfiber manual the fabric is junk and should be replaced.
The test is bone simple. The manual calls it the "Hang it on the Wall
Test".
Quoting the manual "If the fabric breaks, it fails. Time to re-cover.
It would be a shame to go to all the trouble to repaint, rejuvenate or do
anything to junk fabric. Do the test first.
Rick Girard
On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 8:49 AM, Bob Green <bgreen@bimi.org> wrote:
>
> Congratulations on owning a KOLB.
> Say, I deal with Aircraft Spruce and they are great people but when it
> comes to fabric, covering, etc I deal with Jim and Dondi Miller at Aircraft
> Technical Support. The reason is that Jim and Dondi are available 6 days a
> week and encourage folk with questions to call them. They are very
> professional but very personable and take the time with customers.
> 1-877-877-3334. They sell the poly-stits materials at very reasonable
> rates. I think they are close to AS's prices if not better.
>
> Personally, I would take the areas needing patches down to the fabric using
> MEK. Be careful about "sanding" The top coats (poly-spray and poly-paints)
> do take sanding but the poly-brush does not. It is easy to sand into the
> fabric at some point. If your coating has a good base, a good dose of
> poly-brush and 3 cross coats of poly-spray, I would not remove it all over
> the plane. A lot depends on the finish coat... poly-tone or poly-urethane.
> You can tell poly-tone from poly-urethane... ploy-tone is softer and can be
> removed with MEK. Poly urethane is glossy and does not respond to MEK as
> readily. Ask Jim or Doni but I am pretty sure that on poly-tone you could
> probably prep for repainting by washing and then wiping with the "cleaner"
> (C-2200) followed by wiping with a "tach" cloth. Depending on the age of
> the coatings, there is also a rejuvenator (RJ-1200) that can be used to
> rejuvenate the paint.
>
> Best advice is call Jim and Dondi. They are glad to answer questions and
> can send you a booklet telling about all you need to know. I have worked
> with poly-stats on my Mark III but also on patching my Aeronca Champ. Great
> stuff.
> As always... this is just my opinion. Everyone needs to do what they think
> best.
> Bob
>
> Time: 11:33:01 AM PST US
> Subject: Kolb-List: Complete re-paint of Kolb.
> From: "gotime242" <dylanshine@gmail.com>
>
>
> Hello again...
>
> My kolb is currently in need of some patches and paint in quite a few
> areas. Its
> to the point where it would be nice to just repaint the entire airplane.
>
> Its done with the poly process. I just ordered a patch kit from ac spruce
> (will
> be my first time working with fabric...hope it goes well).
>
> What would be the best way about repainting the entire airplane? Is it
> necessary
> to completely remove the paint down to the fabric? Or would just a light
> sanding
> do the trick? The fabric itself (other than the holes, bad touch ups and
> lots of hanger rash lol)....is in good shape. I just want it to be pretty
> again.
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=307949#307949
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 17
> ____________________________________
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Landing video |
No John, I have a big long "curb feeler", when I hear scraping I start to
flare. :-}
Rick
On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 7:36 PM, John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks Thom. It does take some getting used to. I stressed the eye's
> position so close to the ground because that was what was hardest for me to
> overcome. I'd be feeling for the runway, get a little slow and spend the
> evening renewing my friendship with Mr. Hydraulic Press. I just kept
> practicing at it.
>
> Rick
>
>
> Rick:
>
> You looking at the ground or the runway a few two or three hundred yards
> ahead of you?
>
> I find landings work a lot better if I don't look at the ground.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Landing video |
To be serious, I look at the ground in a scan just like I look at the sky
when I'm flying. The trick is not to fixate on anything but take in as much
visual information as you can. The camera has a fixed mounting, my head
doesn't.
To be perfectly honest I don't understand the point you are trying to make
here.
Rick
On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 9:44 PM, Richard Girard <aslsa.rng@gmail.com> wrote:
> No John, I have a big long "curb feeler", when I hear scraping I start to
> flare. :-}
>
> Rick
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 7:36 PM, John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Thanks Thom. It does take some getting used to. I stressed the eye's
>> position so close to the ground because that was what was hardest for me to
>> overcome. I'd be feeling for the runway, get a little slow and spend the
>> evening renewing my friendship with Mr. Hydraulic Press. I just kept
>> practicing at it.
>>
>> Rick
>>
>>
>> Rick:
>>
>> You looking at the ground or the runway a few two or three hundred yards
>> ahead of you?
>>
>> I find landings work a lot better if I don't look at the ground.
>>
>> john h
>> mkIII
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>
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Subject: | Re: Landing video |
To be serious, I look at the ground in a scan just like I look at the sky
when I'm flying. The trick is not to fixate on anything but take in as much
visual information as you can. The camera has a fixed mounting, my head
doesn't.
To be perfectly honest I don't understand the point you are trying to make
here.
Rick
Rick/Gang:
Some folks have difficulty landing because they look down at the ground
under the aircraft, rather than looking out at the runway well ahead of the
aircraft.
Depth perception gets screwed up looking under the aircraft.
john h
mkIII
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Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
On my Mk III what causes the movement is rudder flutter pure and simple. If
I take my feet off the rudder peddles the tail starts to shake with
increasing amplitude. It's why after 150 + hours Zulu Delta is still in
phase 1 testing and my flying is limited to my test area given me by my
FSDO.
The cure, for me is to remove all the dead weight from the improperly
applied Aerothane by re-covering the empenage and balancing the surfaces.
Until then I cannot in good conscience sign off the logbook that the
aircraft has no dangerous tendencies. My experiment, my solution.
There's a part of me that would love to put a Vee tail on the airplane with
full flying ruddervators, but that's another experiment for another day.
Rick Girard
On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 3:39 PM, william sullivan
<williamtsullivan@att.net>wrote:
> John- I think it might have been Larry Cottrel that did the video. It
> does show an amazing amount of tail twisting, and I think it's the boom.
> Or, it might be some kind of illusion. It is a very impressive piece of
> footage.
>
> Bill Sullivan
> Windsor Locks, Ct.
> FS 447
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Landing video |
John, I don't know about you but I can't see under my airplane, it has a
floor. I could open a door I suppose, but I'm a little busy to do that while
I'm landing. :-}
Rick
On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 9:59 PM, John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
> To be serious, I look at the ground in a scan just like I look at the sky
> when I'm flying. The trick is not to fixate on anything but take in as much
> visual information as you can. The camera has a fixed mounting, my head
> doesn't.
> To be perfectly honest I don't understand the point you are trying to make
> here.
>
> Rick
>
>
> Rick/Gang:
>
> Some folks have difficulty landing because they look down at the ground
> under the aircraft, rather than looking out at the runway well ahead of the
> aircraft.
>
> Depth perception gets screwed up looking under the aircraft.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
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Yes, it can be painted, how well it comes out is debateable. Sail cloth has
stabilizers and coatings to reduce porosity. It also lacks any kind of UV
protection and typically lasts about 600 hours before it is unsafe.
Rick Girard
On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 4:24 PM, Jmmy Hankinson <jhankin@planters.net> wrote:
> *I need to replace my Firefly wing gap seal, talked to Travis and they
> have them available. They are white in color, mine is black.*
>
> * *
>
> *They are made out of sail cloth, does anyone know if this can be painted?
> *
>
> * *
>
> *Do not archive*
>
> * *
>
> Jimmy Hankinson
>
> Rocky Ford, Ga.
>
> 912 863 7384
>
> N6007L, Firefly
>
> JYL Sylvania, Ga.
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment |
Chris, Use a plumb line, and a water level. You can level your plane within
a gnat's posterior that way.
Make a couple of stands with 1" X 2" wood. For a Kolb I'd make the vertical
post at least 6' tall
But 50' of 1/4" vinyl tubing, hang from stands, fill with water mixed with
red food coloring. The water in the two tubes will always be at the same
level relative to each other. Measure from that.
If you need more than two references you can use plastic fuel line tees, or
drip irrigation tees to add as many lines and stands as you think you need.
As long as they are all connected all the levels in the vertical tubes will
be the same.
Hang a plumb line from the ceiling of your hangar, make a stand like those
for water level. Mearure from the plumb line to the rudder post, when the
measurement is the same top and bottom of the post it's dead on vertical.
Rick Girard
On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 11:18 AM, chris davis <capedavis@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Chris , I think you have your aircraft well within acceptable limits for
> the
> speeds at which we fly , the 1.5 inch difference in your cables was most
> likely
> the most out of whack measurement that you had and you fixed that ! With
> your
> measurements within 1/8 inch and considering the fact that I never had my
> tail
> wires so tight that I couldn't move my horizontal stabilizer 1/8 inch up
> and
> down I think you should be all right . just my 2 cents. Chris
> Chris Davis
> KXP 503 492 hrs
> Glider Pilot
> Disabled from crash building Firefly
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Chris_A <50calibercruiser@cox.net>
> To: kolb-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Mon, August 9, 2010 11:17:29 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Acceptable horizontal stabilizer adjustment
>
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> Thanks for all the in put with my issue. I spent yesterday with a tape
> measure
> and a level and I came to several realizations.
>
>
> One: Although this firestar is extremely well built, I can't find a level
> spot
> on the thing including the factory welded cage. No amount of shimming would
> produce a level reading at any two points. I hung the plane by the CG off
> the
> rafters in the shop and shimmed the tires with blocks, then shimmed the
> tail
> stand. No luck.
>
> Two: The plane leans counter clockwise .5" resting on level ground with the
> tires at any and equal pressure. I measured off the either side of the
> cage,
> being it was welded in a jig and should therefore be square. (see#1) This
> was
> confirmed with both a tape measure and by the angled wear on the tail
> wheel. I
> can not see any bend in the gear and they are exactly the same length. I
> did the
> repair with the plane suspended and leveled it with a plumb bob off the
> prop
> shaft. So in the air the top center line of the tube is properly located
> off the
> shaft.
>
> Three: After the tail boom was assembled I set the plane back on the ground
> and
> it resumed it's .5" counter clockwise list. At the time I didn't realize
> this.
>
>
> Four: I still managed to get the tail ring off center. After I made an
> absolutely level/flat spot I measured from the ground to the bottom of the
> horizontal control horn at each end just before the welds. (With the plane
> as
> level as I could get it with the plumb bob off shaft) There is a .125"
> difference end to end. I am however positive that the top forward bracket
> for
> the vertical is absolutely, dead nuts centered on the tube. I believe I got
> the
> bottom one off less than 1/8 but I can't find a good way to measure it. I
> must
> have canted the ring, thinking the front brackets were enough to keep it
> centered.
>
> Five: I never pulled the tail brace wires off the horizontals, nor did I
> tighten/loosen the turn buckles(safety wired). After I really got looking
> at
> them I noticed the top two where different lengths. 1.5" to be exact. Well
> I
> switched them around and now the horizontals are within .250 of each other
> so I
> cut the safety wire and adjusted them until both side were equal. I still
> have a
> lot of play left in both turn buckles. I have come to the conclusion that
> the
> tail was never really square and I had no reason to notice it.
>
> I know I centered all the holes as well as anyone could. Using the lexan
> template I hit every single hole in the H-brace dead on. I think I had
> several
> factors working against me. The biggest was thinking the front brackets
> were
> enough to center the ring.
>
>
> So with the brace wires switched and the plane raised .5" clockwise
> everything
> is and looks square except for the horizontal control horn. There is no
> binding
> in any of the controls what so ever. I am still considering pulling the
> rivets
> but I really think what I have now is closer than it was before and it flew
> great then.
>
> What do you guys think?
>
> Thanks
> Chris
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308054#308054
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Landing video |
John, I don't know about you but I can't see under my airplane, it has a
floor. I could open a door I suppose, but I'm a little busy to do that while
I'm landing. :-}
Rick
Rick:
Maybe you would have understood what I said if I had said, "under the nose
of the aircraft", then again, maybe not.
john h
mkIII
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