Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:40 AM - Re: test ()
2. 12:58 AM - Re: Fuel tank ()
3. 03:16 AM - Re: OT old date on msg OT (Thom Riddle)
4. 10:19 AM - Re: OT old date on msg OT (Pat Ladd)
5. 02:09 PM - Re: fuel tank (Charlie England)
6. 09:13 PM - Re: Fuel tank (Ellery Batchelder Jr)
7. 09:43 PM - Re: fuel tank (Richard Girard)
8. 09:43 PM - Re: fuel tank (Richard Girard)
Message 1
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Reached the other side of the world OK
Downunder
MK111c
Message 2
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I have welded a fair bit of alum with ox- acetylene , some as thin as
your tank but I would not be keen on welding a fuel tank this way. You
need to clean all the oxidization off the aly before starting to weld it
..I think on a tank you may have difficulty with blowing holes ,well I
know I would . You may also find that eventually you will get a leak
along side your weld . This would depend on stress /vibration .You do
loose strength in the area where the weld bonds with the base metal . If
it was mine I would look at welding the problem area using argon shield
then putting a patch over the weld .
I may be wrong with this advise as most of the welding of alum I have
done has been boat props and window frames. If you have a good handle
on the oxy - acetylene why not get a couple of bits of alum the
thickness of your tank and give it a go . I have always had best results
by using a unfluxed rod and used a separate flux. From memory its a
liquid air flux. Polish both the rod and area to be welded with wire
wool first and weld as soon as possible after that . There is a very
short time between the base metal { puddling } being ready to weld and
slumping away. I have welded a boat prop on the side of the lake using a
propane torch and some old alum as a fill simply by polishing { filing }
first then not using any flux . Don't know how long it lasted but the
boat it was on disappeared off into the distance.What I am trying to say
is that yes you can weld this material with oxy - acetylene ,you just
need some practice .But a fuel tank ?
Please note I am not a welder by trade, I have held a marine welding
certificate for electric welding and completed a gas welding course many
years ago. There will be others on this list who may have better advise.
Regards
Downunder
MK111c
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: OT old date on msg OT |
do not archive 'cuz this ain't Kolb related
GeoB,
Next time you are in the market for a new computer, consider moving to a Mac. This
is not a sales pitch, just letting you know that once you move and get used
to the slightly different user interface, you won't be happy with less.
I switched about 6 years ago and have zero regrets. My wife broke the display on
her MacBook a couple months ago... she sat on it :-(. I priced a new display
for about $200 installed cost. She decided she wanted to go back to Windows with
a new computer and bought a Toshiba netbook for less than $400. Now she is
cursing Bill Gates again and is going to bite the bullet and get her 4 year old
Mac display fixed, and put the netbook on the shelf... as a bookend and reminder
of her folly.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY (9G0)
Kolb Slingshot SS-021
Jabiru 2200A #1574
Tennessee Prop 64x32
The world is round; it has no point.
- Adrienne E. Gusoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=309850#309850
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: OT old date on msg OT |
George,
re Russ Kine warning about backing up.
I collect aviation prints . Mainly WW2 actions with signatures of those
involved. I have done this for more than 20 years. The signatures are
irreplaceable. Douglas Bader, Sailor Malan, Macky Steinhoff, Adolf
Galland,Chuck Yeager.etc plus many others not so famous. I had details of
their medals, what planes they flew, what squadrons they were in. How many
`kills`.The story of the action portrayed...
About 10 years ago someone gave me a `Collectors Program` and I collated all
this info, arranged it in the same order for every picture and transferred
the lot to my comp.
The comp. blew up recently and I lost everything. Although a few files were
rescued none of my aviation Print files made it.
Was I backed up?. Was I *********!
I look at the work require to reconstruct my data and I shudder. A lot of
the info, what I paid for the prints for example just doesn`t exist any
more.
All for the want of a backing up routine. 20 years work down the Swannee
for the want of a bit of common sense.
Pat
Message 5
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Another option, if you haven't already cut metal, is to rivet them.
It's not difficult (it can even be done with 'pop' rivets) & then seal
the tank with 'pro-seal' type fuel sealant (multiple brands available),
or slosh the tank with some of John's tractor slosh.
If this option interests you, I can give you some more info on how to do
it. For me, at least, it's *much* easier than trying to weld aluminum.
Charlie
> Frank:
>
> Let a pro do it for you. There is probably a shop in Brownsville that
> specializes in marine fuel tanks. It is very difficult to weld up a good
> aluminum tank that will not have pin holes, even with a good welder and a
> TIG outfit.
>
> I also slosh seal my tanks. If there is a tiny pin hole in there somewhere,
> sloshing will insure that it is sealed. I tiny pin hole can drive you nuts
> with its constant seep/ooze and the smell of gasoline in the cockpit.
>
> In addition, I slosh seal antique tractor fuel tanks, the last was 74 years
> old. They will leak at their soldered seams, and nearly always have rusted
> through on the bottom where moisture collects.
>
> Of strict importance is to insure the slosh sealer is compatible with auto
> gas/alcohol and av gas.
>
> john h
> mkIII
Message 6
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Do not use wire wool unless it is made of stainless steel or it will cont
aminate your area to be welded
I have been a welder by trade most of my life the way I would attack that
fuel tank is with a welding machine that has High Freq and a tig torch wi
th Argon Shielding gas for a good strong good looking weld
Ellery Batchelder Jr.
-----Original Message-----
From: aoldman@xtra.co.nz
Sent: Mon, Aug 23, 2010 3:30 am
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel tank
I have welded a fair bit of alum with ox- acetylene , some as thin as your
tank but I would not be keen on welding a fuel tank this way. You need to
clean all the oxidization off the aly before starting to weld it .I think
on a tank you may have difficulty with blowing holes ,well I know I would
. You may also find that eventually you will get a leak along side your
weld . This would depend on stress /vibration .You do loose strength in
the area where the weld bonds with the base metal . If it was mine I woul
d look at welding the problem area using argon shield then putting a patch
over the weld .
I may be wrong with this advise as most of the welding of alum I have done
has been boat props and window frames. If you have a good handle on the
oxy - acetylene why not get a couple of bits of alum the thickness of you
r tank and give it a go . I have always had best results by using a unflux
ed rod and used a separate flux. From memory its a liquid air flux. Polish
both the rod and area to be welded with wire wool first and weld as soon
as possible after that . There is a very short time between the base meta
l { puddling } being ready to weld and slumping away. I have welded a boat
prop on the side of the lake using a propane torch and some old alum as
a fill simply by polishing { filing } first then not using any flux . Don
't know how long it lasted but the boat it was on disappeared off into the
distance.What I am trying to say is that yes you can weld this material
with oxy - acetylene ,you just need some practice .But a fuel tank ?
Please note I am not a welder by trade, I have held a marine welding certi
ficate for electric welding and completed a gas welding course many years
ago. There will be others on this list who may have better advise.
Regards
Downunder
MK111c
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Message 7
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As long as we're talking alternatives, use composites and slosh the inside.
Far easier than riveting of welding.
Rick Girard
On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 4:09 PM, Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>wrote:
>
> Another option, if you haven't already cut metal, is to rivet them. It's
> not difficult (it can even be done with 'pop' rivets) & then seal the tank
> with 'pro-seal' type fuel sealant (multiple brands available), or slosh the
> tank with some of John's tractor slosh.
>
> If this option interests you, I can give you some more info on how to do
> it. For me, at least, it's *much* easier than trying to weld aluminum.
>
> Charlie
>
>> Frank:
>>
>> Let a pro do it for you. There is probably a shop in Brownsville that
>> specializes in marine fuel tanks. It is very difficult to weld up a good
>> aluminum tank that will not have pin holes, even with a good welder and a
>> TIG outfit.
>>
>> I also slosh seal my tanks. If there is a tiny pin hole in there
>> somewhere,
>> sloshing will insure that it is sealed. I tiny pin hole can drive you
>> nuts
>> with its constant seep/ooze and the smell of gasoline in the cockpit.
>>
>> In addition, I slosh seal antique tractor fuel tanks, the last was 74
>> years
>> old. They will leak at their soldered seams, and nearly always have
>> rusted
>> through on the bottom where moisture collects.
>>
>> Of strict importance is to insure the slosh sealer is compatible with auto
>> gas/alcohol and av gas.
>>
>> john h
>> mkIII
>>
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Kolb Mk IIIC
582 Gray head
4.00 C gearbox
3 blade WD
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It is not bigotry to be certain we are right; but it is bigotry to be unable
to imagine how we might possibly have gone wrong.
- G.K. Chesterton
Message 8
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Dang, should have been OR welding.
Rick
On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 9:07 PM, Richard Girard <aslsa.rng@gmail.com> wrote:
> As long as we're talking alternatives, use composites and slosh the inside.
> Far easier than riveting of welding.
>
> Rick Girard
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 4:09 PM, Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>wrote:
>
>> >
>>
>> Another option, if you haven't already cut metal, is to rivet them. It's
>> not difficult (it can even be done with 'pop' rivets) & then seal the tank
>> with 'pro-seal' type fuel sealant (multiple brands available), or slosh the
>> tank with some of John's tractor slosh.
>>
>> If this option interests you, I can give you some more info on how to do
>> it. For me, at least, it's *much* easier than trying to weld aluminum.
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>>> Frank:
>>>
>>> Let a pro do it for you. There is probably a shop in Brownsville that
>>> specializes in marine fuel tanks. It is very difficult to weld up a good
>>> aluminum tank that will not have pin holes, even with a good welder and a
>>> TIG outfit.
>>>
>>> I also slosh seal my tanks. If there is a tiny pin hole in there
>>> somewhere,
>>> sloshing will insure that it is sealed. I tiny pin hole can drive you
>>> nuts
>>> with its constant seep/ooze and the smell of gasoline in the cockpit.
>>>
>>> In addition, I slosh seal antique tractor fuel tanks, the last was 74
>>> years
>>> old. They will leak at their soldered seams, and nearly always have
>>> rusted
>>> through on the bottom where moisture collects.
>>>
>>> Of strict importance is to insure the slosh sealer is compatible with
>>> auto
>>> gas/alcohol and av gas.
>>>
>>> john h
>>> mkIII
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Zulu Delta
> Kolb Mk IIIC
> 582 Gray head
> 4.00 C gearbox
> 3 blade WD
> Thanks, Homer GBYM
>
> It is not bigotry to be certain we are right; but it is bigotry to be
> unable to imagine how we might possibly have gone wrong.
> - G.K. Chesterton
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Kolb Mk IIIC
582 Gray head
4.00 C gearbox
3 blade WD
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It is not bigotry to be certain we are right; but it is bigotry to be unable
to imagine how we might possibly have gone wrong.
- G.K. Chesterton
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