Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:44 AM - Re: winter skis ! (McCarthy Tom)
2. 03:44 AM - Type certificate for KOLB MARK II TWINSTAR/ Rotax 582 (zetebete)
3. 04:31 AM - Re: Nice day doing some Texas Kolb cruisin' (Thom Riddle)
4. 04:41 AM - Re: Novice Kolb Pilot (Pat Ladd)
5. 04:54 AM - Fw: winter skis ! (McCarthy Tom)
6. 05:56 AM - Re: Rotax 912 Idle (zeprep251@aol.com)
7. 06:11 AM - Re: Rotax 912 Idle (John Hauck)
8. 06:36 AM - Re: Rotax 912 Idle (william sullivan)
9. 06:39 AM - Re: Rotax 912 Idle (zeprep251@aol.com)
10. 06:45 AM - Re: Rotax 912 Idle (John Hauck)
11. 06:54 AM - Re: Rotax 912 Idle (Herb)
12. 07:02 AM - Re:non corrosive sealants (Herb)
13. 08:04 AM - Re: Rotax 912 Idle (b young)
14. 08:13 AM - Re: Rotax 912 Idle (b young)
15. 08:35 AM - Re: Type certificate for KOLB MARK II TWINSTAR/ Rotax 582 (Richard Girard)
16. 08:37 AM - Re: Re:non corrosive sealants (robert bean)
17. 09:06 AM - Re: Merry Dawn is a few steps closer to being airborn again (Jimmy Young)
18. 09:54 AM - Re: Rotax 912 Idle (zeprep251@aol.com)
19. 12:03 PM - Re: Re:non corrosive sealants (Charlie England)
20. 01:34 PM - Re: Re:non corrosive sealants (b young)
21. 02:01 PM - Re: Re:non corrosive sealants (John Hauck)
22. 02:13 PM - Re: Re:non corrosive sealants (Richard Girard)
23. 03:06 PM - Re: Rotax 912 Idle (zeprep251@aol.com)
24. 04:22 PM - Re: Re:non corrosive sealants (John Hauck)
25. 05:14 PM - Merry Dawn (George Bearden)
26. 07:08 PM - Re: Re:non corrosive sealants (zeprep251@aol.com)
27. 07:28 PM - Re: Re:non corrosive sealants (John Hauck)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: winter skis ! |
Well guys,
the shooting gallery is open ! What do you think of the new skis ? The
Right
ski will go much better now that I know what I have the left one
done....Can't
wait for snow ! These are made for going on snowmobile packed snow on
Houghton
Lake,,,no glacier hopping...lol
chris ambrose
M3X/Jabiru A- 2200 168.7 hrs
N327CS
Chris,
I did the same thing with my Firestar about 5 years ago, but only flew
it a couple of times before removal.
The first thing I found out was the plane felt a like flying tank in the
air, scary to bank at any angle, so be prepared. I also found out the
importance of putting some runners on the bottom of the ski's to keep
the plane going the way you want it and not being blown sideways in any
light crosswind. My only suggestion would be to install maybe (3) boogie
wheels on top of the ski's that go thru the ski, so that pavement
landing or taxi is possible. I ended up making wheeled carts like whats
found at HF, just to push it from the hanger to the snow.
My conclusion was to just land on the beat down snowmobile trails with
my wheels, hoping for no engine outs over the large farmland areas we
have here.
If anyone wants to try my ski's, they are available. Pick up in For
Atkinson, WI.
Tom McCarthy
N514 TM Zenith 601HD
N414 TM Kolb Firestar
N863 GB Kolb Slingshot
Message 2
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Subject: | Type certificate for KOLB MARK II TWINSTAR/ Rotax 582 |
Hallo Boys!
Can somebody send me a type certificate by copy for my KOLB MARK II
TWINSTAR/with Rotax 582/?
It would be the best from Deutschland or USA.
Please to help for a poor kolb pilot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank's.
Zolt=E1n Tibor Hungary
KOLB Twinstar
zetebete@t-online.hu
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Nice day doing some Texas Kolb cruisin' |
It improves Hearing Performance.
19.65 mpg is good, Jimmy :-). So is 2.76 gph.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY (9G0)
Kolb Slingshot SS-021
Jabiru 2200A #1574
Tennessee Prop 64x32
Everyone is entitled to his own opinion, but not his own facts.
Daniel Patrick Moynihan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322439#322439
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Novice Kolb Pilot |
The injuries are usually the result of the
hose clamps failing that attach the nose gear,>>
Very good John. I had a good chuckle. I think the hose clamps are like any
other part of any construction which is used for something it was not
designed for. (Like trying to move rocks with the front wheel of your bike).
I always landed my Challenger on the mains and held the front wheel off as
long as possible.It was fine.
In fact on two occasions when the rubber band failed it was OK. The first
time, I landed fast and very untidily and a bit heavy after everything went
quiet at about 800 feet. The second time the landing was OK but getting her
out from a small, ridged field nearly shook my teeth out before I scraped
over the hedge. She leaped from ridge to ridge in a series of controlled
crashes but everything held together.
The CAA distributes a monthly list of mishaps and it is surprising how many
Cessnas etc come to grief from front wheel failure caused by wheelbarrowing
in on all three wheels
Good to have you back, John. Good flying.
Pat
Message 5
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>
> Well guys,
> the shooting gallery is open ! What do you think of the new skis ?
The Right
> ski will go much better now that I know what I have the left one
done....Can't
> wait for snow ! These are made for going on snowmobile packed snow on
Houghton
> Lake,,,no glacier hopping...lol
>
> chris ambrose
> M3X/Jabiru A- 2200 168.7 hrs
> N327CS
>
> Chris,
>
> I did the same thing with my Firestar about 5 years ago, but only flew
it a couple of times before removal.
> The first thing I found out was the plane felt a like flying tank in
the air, scary to bank at any angle, so be prepared. I also found out
the importance of putting some runners on the bottom of the ski's to
keep the plane going the way you want it and not being blown sideways in
any light crosswind. My only suggestion would be to install maybe (3)
boogie wheels on top of the ski's that go thru the ski, so that pavement
landing or taxi is possible. I ended up making wheeled carts like whats
found at HF, just to push it from the hanger to the snow.
>
> My conclusion was to just land on the beat down snowmobile trails with
my wheels, hoping for no engine outs over the large farmland areas we
have here.
>
> If anyone wants to try my ski's, they are available. Pick up in For
Atkinson, WI.
>
>
> Tom McCarthy
> N514 TM Zenith 601HD
> N414 TM Kolb Firestar
> N863 GB Kolb Slingshot
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Idle |
Tom,
Didn't sound that promising in your first post.Johns advice carries a lot m
ore weight than most.My friend has a Savannah /912S.We set it mechanically,
closing the throttle plates completely, then use a feeler gauge for base a
djustment ,then 2 vac gauges on the crossover tube ports to get a very smoo
th idle at 1600.We also have a dynamic balancer we purchased as a group tha
t made his 912 incredibly
smooth at RPM.
G.Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: The Kuffels <kuffel@cyberport.net>
Sent: Mon, Dec 6, 2010 1:35 am
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rotax 912 Idle
<< My Zenith CH701 friend has a 912S. It has the characteristic on the g
round of stopping when the throttle is pulled to full idle >>
<< It,s like teaching a pig to whistle,it wastes your time and annoys the p
ig.
G.Aman >>
Actually he has been pretty responsive to most of my suggestions and did a
thorough and careful AC90-89 style preparation to his successful first flig
ht.
After showing him John's response to my query he has agreed before his seco
nd flight to increase his idle set screws 1/2 turn at a time until he gets
a stable idle above 1400. However since he is an (anti)snowbird, the next
flight might not be until spring given the recent weather here.
Tom Kuffel
Whitefish, MT
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Idle |
We also have a dynamic balancer we purchased as a group that made his 912
incredibly
smooth at RPM.
G.Aman
Gary A/Gang:
What kind of "dynamic balancer" do you have?
I am assuming this is a prop balancer.
I bought a pair of good quality, viscous dampened vacuum gauges, a couple
years ago, to balance my carbs on the 912. However, there was some
discrepancy in readings between the two. After a couple tries at using the
gauges to balance, I chucked them, and use mechanical balance only. Seemed
I was doing a better job mechanically than with the vacuum gauges.
The mud daubers have built nest in my prop hub while I was recovering from
my injuries. I got most of them out before I flew the other day, but need
to remove the prop and extension in order to do a proper job of cleaning.
Then I have to decide how to block the empty prop hub holes to prevent them
from homesteading on my engine again.
28F, clear and cold in Titus, Alabama.
john h
mkIII
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Idle |
- John- For plugging/blocking stray holes, try spray foam in a can.- Ma
rketed under "Really Great Stuff", or a similar name.- Available at Home
Depot, Lowe's, or a hardware store.- Expands to fit, can be trimmed with
a saw or knife, weighs nothing, and won't hurt anything if it falls out.-
Cheap, too.
-
-------------------------
--------------- Bill Sullivan
--- On Mon, 12/6/10, John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com> wrote:
From: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rotax 912 Idle
-
-We also have a dynamic balancer we purchased as a group that made his 91
2 incredibly
smooth at RPM.
G.Aman
-
-
-
-Gary A/Gang:
-
What kind of "dynamic balancer"- do you have?
-
I am assuming this is a prop balancer.
-
I bought a pair of good quality, viscous dampened vacuum gauges, a couple y
ears ago, to balance my carbs on the 912.- However, there was some discre
pancy in readings between the two.- After a couple tries at using the gau
ges to balance, I chucked them, and use mechanical balance only.- Seemed
I was doing a better job mechanically than with the vacuum gauges.
-
The mud daubers have built nest in my prop hub while I was recovering from
my injuries.- I got most of them out before I flew the other day, but nee
d to remove the prop and extension in order to do a proper job of cleaning.
- Then I have to decide how to block the empty prop hub holes to prevent
them from homesteading- on my engine again.
-
28F, clear and cold in Titus, Alabama.
-
john h
mkIII
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Idle |
John,
web site for balancer is RPXTECH.com
G.Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Mon, Dec 6, 2010 9:11 am
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rotax 912 Idle
We also have a dynamic balancer we purchased as a group that made his 912
incredibly
smooth at RPM.
G.Aman
Gary A/Gang:
What kind of "dynamic balancer" do you have?
I am assuming this is a prop balancer.
I bought a pair of good quality, viscous dampened vacuum gauges, a couple y
ears ago, to balance my carbs on the 912. However, there was some discrepa
ncy in readings between the two. After a couple tries at using the gauges
to balance, I chucked them, and use mechanical balance only. Seemed I was
doing a better job mechanically than with the vacuum gauges.
The mud daubers have built nest in my prop hub while I was recovering from
my injuries. I got most of them out before I flew the other day, but need
to remove the prop and extension in order to do a proper job of cleaning.
Then I have to decide how to block the empty prop hub holes to prevent them
from homesteading on my engine again.
28F, clear and cold in Titus, Alabama.
john h
mkIII
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Idle |
John- For plugging/blocking stray holes, try spray foam in a can. Marketed
under "Really Great Stuff", or a similar name. Available at Home Depot,
Lowe's, or a hardware store. Expands to fit, can be trimmed with a saw or
knife, weighs nothing, and won't hurt anything if it falls out. Cheap, too.
Bill Sullivan
Bill S/Gang:
Think that would work in bolt holes in the prop hub?
I used silicone seal to fill holes in the gear box. Hesitated to use it on
steel after some severe corrosion using it on a 4130 tail wheel strut.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Idle |
Might try the non acetic acid silicone sealant...I am guessing that
that was why you have corrosion? Never bought any so not sure of
brands etc...The Long ez guys use it to make fiberglass lay ups which
they mold around their engines for cooling baffles...Herb
At 08:43 AM 12/6/2010, you wrote:
> John- For plugging/blocking stray holes, try spray foam in a
> can. Marketed under "Really Great Stuff", or a similar
> name. Available at Home Depot, Lowe's, or a hardware
> store. Expands to fit, can be trimmed with a saw or knife, weighs
> nothing, and won't hurt anything if it falls out. Cheap, too.
>
> Bill Sullivan
>
>
>Bill S/Gang:
>
>Think that would work in bolt holes in the prop hub?
>
>I used silicone seal to fill holes in the gear box. Hesitated to
>use it on steel after some severe corrosion using it on a 4130 tail
>wheel strut.
>
>john h
>mkIII
>Titus, Alabama
>
>
Message 12
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Subject: | Re:non corrosive sealants |
replying to my own message. Just googled non acetic acid
silicone...Dow corning makes several...listed as non corrosive or non
acetic acid... Home Depot or Lowes...etc...Herb
At 08:51 AM 12/6/2010, you wrote:
>Might try the non acetic acid silicone sealant...I am guessing that
>that was why you have corrosion? Never bought any so not sure of
>brands etc...The Long ez guys use it to make fiberglass lay ups
>which they mold around their engines for cooling baffles...Herb
>
>At 08:43 AM 12/6/2010, you wrote:
>> John- For plugging/blocking stray holes, try spray foam in a
>> can. Marketed under "Really Great Stuff", or a similar
>> name. Available at Home Depot, Lowe's, or a hardware
>> store. Expands to fit, can be trimmed with a saw or knife, weighs
>> nothing, and won't hurt anything if it falls out. Cheap, too.
>>
>> Bill Sullivan
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Bill S/Gang:
>>
>>Think that would work in bolt holes in the prop hub?
>>
>>I used silicone seal to fill holes in the gear box. Hesitated to
>>use it on steel after some severe corrosion using it on a 4130 tail
>>wheel strut.
>>
>>john h
>>mkIII
>>Titus, Alabama
>>
>>
>>
>
>
><http://www.buildersbooks.com>www.buildersbooks.com
><http://www.matronics.com/contribution>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
><http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Idle |
Actually he has been pretty responsive to most of my suggestions and did
a thorough and careful AC90-89 style preparation to his successful first
flight.
After showing him John's response to my query he has agreed before his
second flight to increase his idle set screws 1/2 turn at a time until
he gets a stable idle above 1400. However since he is an
(anti)snowbird, the next flight might not be until spring given the
recent weather here.
Tom Kuffel
Whitefish, MT
tom
while pulling a mixture control to kill most aircraft engines is a
design feature,,, it is done by a separate control, and can't be done
by accident while adjusting the throttle in an emergency or normal
routine. if he wanted a way to kill the engine if the mag switches
failed... have him fix up a control that will shut the fuel off either
at the tanks or just before the carbs. it would take a bit longer to
kill the engine because of the fuel in the float bowl.. but it would be
better than killing the engine on short final only to find that because
of wind, you needed a bit more power to make the runway.
maybe because he has agreed to 1400 rpm at idle... this may be too late
to be of help... if he created a stop on the throttle quadrant that
would keep the engine at a good idle speed... and have a way to disable
the stop by depressing another control at the same time. then he could,
only after overcoming the throttle stop, be able to pull the throttle
to stop the engine.
the idle stop screws would be the best way to control the idle speed...
as cable stretch would alter the settings if using a throttle stop.
boyd young
mkIII 912
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Idle |
John,
web site for balancer is RPXTECH.com
G.Aman
>>>>>>>>>>>>
Garry.... does the balancer change any between flights,,, and
therefore take a little time to rebalance upon start up... or is it
quite stable between flights.
boyd
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Type certificate for KOLB MARK II TWINSTAR/ Rotax 582 |
Zoltan, No Kolb aircraft is type cerificated. They are either flown as
ultralights under FAR 103, or they are licensed in the experimental categor
y
under FAR 21.191(h) or 21.191(i)1.
Rick Girard
2010/12/6 zetebete <zetebete@t-online.hu>
> Hallo Boys!
>
> Can somebody send me a type certificate by copy for my KOLB MARK II
> TWINSTAR/with Rotax 582/?
>
> It would be the best from Deutschland or USA.
>
> Please to help for a poor kolb pilot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Thank=92s.
>
> Zolt=E1n Tibor Hungary
>
> KOLB Twinstar
>
> zetebete@t-online.hu
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Kolb Mk IIIC
582 Gray head
4.00 C gearbox
3 blade WD
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It is not bigotry to be certain we are right; but it is bigotry to be unabl
e
to imagine how we might possibly have gone wrong.
- G.K. Chesterton
Message 16
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Subject: | Re:non corrosive sealants |
That's good info Herb.
I used silicone to plug all the unused holes in my suzuki engine. They
were subject to the same mud plugs.
I would hesitate to use great stuff. -once made a vehicle rust out
twice as fast by injecting it into all the hollow panels.
Turns out it wicks moisture -and salt. :(
For a temporary fix on the prop hub a patch of duct tape stays on fine.
Not very high tech looking.
I don't use the back up disk on my two blade warp hub so I found a
rubber plug that fit the center hole perfectly
Sometimes it pays to save old stuff.
BB
On 6, Dec 2010, at 9:59 AM, Herb wrote:
>
> replying to my own message. Just googled non acetic acid
silicone...Dow corning makes several...listed as non corrosive or non
acetic acid... Home Depot or Lowes...etc...Herb
>
> At 08:51 AM 12/6/2010, you wrote:
>
>> Might try the non acetic acid silicone sealant...I am guessing that
that was why you have corrosion? Never bought any so not sure of
brands etc...The Long ez guys use it to make fiberglass lay ups which
they mold around their engines for cooling baffles...Herb
>>
>> At 08:43 AM 12/6/2010, you wrote:
>>> John- For plugging/blocking stray holes, try spray foam in a can.
Marketed under "Really Great Stuff", or a similar name. Available at
Home Depot, Lowe's, or a hardware store. Expands to fit, can be trimmed
with a saw or knife, weighs nothing, and won't hurt anything if it falls
out. Cheap, too.
>>>
>>> Bill Sullivan
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Bill S/Gang:
>>>
>>> Think that would work in bolt holes in the prop hub?
>>>
>>> I used silicone seal to fill holes in the gear box. Hesitated to
use it on steel after some severe corrosion using it on a 4130 tail
wheel strut.
>>>
>>> john h
>>> mkIII
>>> Titus, Alabama
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Month --
>> Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
>> www.aeroelectric.com
>> www.buildersbooks.com
>> www.homebuilthelp.com
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> Email Forum -
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Merry Dawn is a few steps closer to being airborn again |
Cristal that's great. Glad to hear you are doing well and have the drive in your
heart to continue flying and maintaining your Kolb with all you have going on.
Still look forward to meeting you one day. Best wishes!
--------
Jimmy Young
Missouri City, TX
Kolb FS II/HKS 700
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322477#322477
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Idle |
John,
The balancer tells you how much weight to add and where to add it.I put on
ly a few grams under the prop attach bolts (washers in my case)or nuts.I ha
ve the info in the certificate holder in the airplane so I can't recall exa
ctly how much weight total we added,but it was a few grams.We left the refl
ector tape on on as well,,just a small spot..The chart in the plane is a se
gmented circle showing degrees
and the weight added at those locations.
G.Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: b young <by0ung@brigham.net>
Sent: Mon, Dec 6, 2010 11:13 am
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rotax 912 Idle
John,
web site for balancer is RPXTECH.com
G.Aman
>>>>>>>>>>>>
Garry.... does the balancer change any between flights,,, and therefore
take a little time to rebalance upon start up... or is it quite stable be
tween flights.
boyd
Message 19
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Subject: | Re:non corrosive sealants |
Try the auto parts store; look for 'sensor safe'. (meaning non-corrosive)
Charlie
On 12/6/2010 8:59 AM, Herb wrote:
>
> replying to my own message. Just googled non acetic acid
> silicone...Dow corning makes several...listed as non corrosive or non
> acetic acid... Home Depot or Lowes...etc...Herb
>
> At 08:51 AM 12/6/2010, you wrote:
>
>> Might try the non acetic acid silicone sealant...I am guessing that
>> that was why you have corrosion? Never bought any so not sure of
>> brands etc...The Long ez guys use it to make fiberglass lay ups which
>> they mold around their engines for cooling baffles...Herb
>>
>> At 08:43 AM 12/6/2010, you wrote:
>>> John- For plugging/blocking stray holes, try spray foam in a can.
>>> Marketed under "Really Great Stuff", or a similar name. Available
>>> at Home Depot, Lowe's, or a hardware store. Expands to fit, can be
>>> trimmed with a saw or knife, weighs nothing, and won't hurt anything
>>> if it falls out. Cheap, too.
>>>
>>> Bill Sullivan
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Bill S/Gang:
>>>
>>> Think that would work in bolt holes in the prop hub?
>>>
>>> I used silicone seal to fill holes in the gear box. Hesitated to
>>> use it on steel after some severe corrosion using it on a 4130 tail
>>> wheel strut.
>>>
>>> john h
>>> mkIII
>>> Titus, Alabama
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
Message 20
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Subject: | Re:non corrosive sealants |
For a temporary fix on the prop hub a patch of duct tape stays on fine.
Not very high tech looking.
I don't use the back up disk on my two blade warp hub so I found a
rubber plug that fit the center hole perfectly
Sometimes it pays to save old stuff.
BB
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
if you get the aluminum duct tape,, available at hvac (heating vent air
conditioning) locations... cut to fit, pull the backing and it stays
put well and looks good.
boyd young
mkIII utah
Message 21
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Subject: | Re:non corrosive sealants |
if you get the aluminum duct tape,, available at hvac (heating vent air
conditioning) locations... cut to fit, pull the backing and it stays put
well and looks good.
boyd young
Folks:
Thanks for all the recommendations.
I like Boyd's idea of aluminum duct tape. It is light, can die cut enough
to cover the holes, and should not affect balance.
Darn mud daubers are a pain in the butt. They have several places around
the cylinder bases on the crank case they love to build homes. On top of
that, where they build their homes is difficult to access and remove.
Clear, sunny, and cold. Still too cold to fly comfortably, unless I get
serious, get out the Chillie Vest and long drawers.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
Message 22
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Subject: | Re:non corrosive sealants |
John, If your hub has the small, 1" hole a plastic cap off a Blitz fuel can
fits perfectly. It's been in the hole of my trike's Power Fin for almost
three years now, weighs little and I always have a gas cap handy should I
need it.
Rick Girard
On Mon, Dec 6, 2010 at 3:57 PM, John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com> wrote:
>
> if you get the aluminum duct tape,, available at hvac (heating vent air
> conditioning) locations... cut to fit, pull the backing and it stays put
> well and looks good.
>
> boyd young
>
>
> Folks:
>
> Thanks for all the recommendations.
>
> I like Boyd's idea of aluminum duct tape. It is light, can die cut enough
> to cover the holes, and should not affect balance.
>
> Darn mud daubers are a pain in the butt. They have several places around
> the cylinder bases on the crank case they love to build homes. On top of
> that, where they build their homes is difficult to access and remove.
>
> Clear, sunny, and cold. Still too cold to fly comfortably, unless I get
> serious, get out the Chillie Vest and long drawers.
>
> john h
> mkIII
> Titus, Alabama
>
> *
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Kolb Mk IIIC
582 Gray head
4.00 C gearbox
3 blade WD
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It is not bigotry to be certain we are right; but it is bigotry to be unable
to imagine how we might possibly have gone wrong.
- G.K. Chesterton
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Idle |
Boyd,
Sorry,After reading my first post it sounded like an accessory that bolted
on .It's a procedure using this equipment.I thought my Jabiru was fairly sm
ooth,but I could feel the difference after we balanced the prop.
G.Aman MK3C Jabiru 2200A 600hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: b yIt's oung <by0ung@brigham.net>
Sent: Mon, Dec 6, 2010 11:13 am
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rotax 912 Idle
John,
web site for balancer is RPXTECH.com
G.Aman
>>>>>>>>>>>>
Garry.... does the balancer change any between flights,,, and therefore
take a little time to rebalance upon start up... or is it quite stable be
tween flights.
boyd
Message 24
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Subject: | Re:non corrosive sealants |
John, If your hub has the small, 1" hole a plastic cap off a Blitz fuel can
fits perfectly. It's been in the hole of my trike's Power Fin for almost
three years now, weighs little and I always have a gas cap handy should I
need it.
Rick Girard
Rick G/Gang:
I have the large hole covered with a prop spinner. It is the unused bolt
holes exposed on the forward side of the prop hub that need plugging.
I need to pull the prop and extension, clean everything up good, then take
care of plugg/covering to prevent the little rascals from homesteading
again.
I also need to make a cover for the aft end of the tailboom. Probably out
of hardware cloth or screen wire. Something that is easy to slip on and
off. Probably end up with something that is two piece, protected with duct
tape to prevent scuffing up the paint when removed and installed each day I
fly.
After the rodents have gotten in and done their dirty deeds, it is too late.
All it takes is one trip in and they can destroy seat belts, shoulder
harness, seat covers, wiring, and plastic brake lines.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
Message 25
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> My battery is also corroded. I'll be saving up some more change to get my
replacement parts.
I have a feeling that many aircraft batteries are damaged by sulfation, and
may not really need replacement.
I stopped at a yard sale down my street a month or two ago. Bought a TV
stand (oak, nice!) and asked about a red-top battery sitting there. It
looked like it had been lightly used (but you can't really tell). The guy
told me it was no good, but I could have it if I wanted. Apart from the
$7.00 the recycler gives for batteries, I had different aspirations. I took
it home and put my battery rejuvenator on it. At first the battery would not
take a charge at all. Now it is taking and holding a charge. Not sure the %
capacity yet, haven't done more tests. Process not finished.
One of my 4x4 buddies had an expensive yellow-top that was new, but had sat
with no charge for some years. I put a rejuvenator on that, coupla months
later I gave him back a like new battery.
My cousin was moving and I was helping. He was going to leave a deep cycle
battery sitting there. I took it, rejuvenated it, and it works like new. It
had very few actual working hours on it, it was just sitting for a few years
with no charge that allowed the sulfur compound that was deposited on the
plates from solution during the discharge process to change form with time
into a form of sulfate that is much more stable and resistant to the
charging current. This builds up over time until you have no 'bare' plate
left to carry on the chemical reaction and produce current. There are
several ways to eliminate or discourage the formation of sulfate, but the
older methods are a little harsh on the battery and/or not suitable for
domestic life in the suburbs. Selected chemical bonds can be 'excited' by
certain frequencies of of.. uh.. excitation. The desulfators use spikes of
electricity that are safe for electronic circuits, yet 'ring' the molecule's
bonds (not sure which ones) at a harmonic frequency. So without a huge
current, out-gassing, adding water, or any hassle one can safely re-claim
certain batteries. This won't help a worn out battery, a damaged battery,
shorted, with warped plates, etc, but a good battery that has simply been
allowed to sit discharged is a good candidate.
I used to go to a motorcycle shop that threw away a lot of batteries. They
sit too long in crates, on ships, on the floor, etc. I have a buncha good
batteries for my various projects and vehicles. I have- uh, twelve pieces of
equipment around here, including my vehicles, that use batteries. My diesel
PU and 5th-wheel each use two batteries.
The rejuvenators cost between $25-$75 on-line.
My setup:
I have 100 watts of photovoltaic on my RV. Most of the time the RV is
parked. I attach the bad battery to the charging circuit. I attach the 12v
powered rejuvenator to the battery also. I let the mix work for a month or
so. The manufacturer of the device says that doing it this way is the
fastest way to fix a battery. It charges during the day, and the rejuvenator
is said to operate on one plate, then at night the rejuvenator operates on
the opposite plate, living off the residual charge in the battery. Thus both
polarity of plates get whacked.
They have these circuits in many RV power supplies now, stock.
GeoB
Message 26
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Subject: | Re:non corrosive sealants |
John,
A lot of cold air and exhaust fumes blew up my tail boom,so I made a plug o
f 6" thick foam rubber, 7"in diameter with 4 slits cut for the cables at 12
,6.10 and 2 o'clock approx,placed it about a foot up the pipe.Seems to work
OK. Cut it on a band saw.
G.Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Mon, Dec 6, 2010 7:22 pm
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re:non corrosive sealants
John, If your hub has the small, 1" hole a plastic cap off a Blitz fuel ca
n fits perfectly. It's been in the hole of my trike's Power Fin for almost
three years now, weighs little and I always have a gas cap handy should I n
eed it.
Rick Girard
Rick G/Gang:
I have the large hole covered with a prop spinner. It is the unused bolt h
oles exposed on the forward side of the prop hub that need plugging.
I need to pull the prop and extension, clean everything up good, then take
care of plugg/covering to prevent the little rascals from homesteading agai
n.
I also need to make a cover for the aft end of the tailboom. Probably out
of hardware cloth or screen wire. Something that is easy to slip on and of
f. Probably end up with something that is two piece, protected with duct t
ape to prevent scuffing up the paint when removed and installed each day I
fly.
After the rodents have gotten in and done their dirty deeds, it is too late
. All it takes is one trip in and they can destroy seat belts, shoulder ha
rness, seat covers, wiring, and plastic brake lines.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
Message 27
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Subject: | Re:non corrosive sealants |
John,
A lot of cold air and exhaust fumes blew up my tail boom,so I made a plug of
6" thick foam rubber, 7"in diameter with 4 slits cut for the cables at
12,6.10 and 2 o'clock approx,placed it about a foot up the pipe.Seems to
work OK. Cut it on a band saw.
G.Aman
Gary A/Folks:
That may be a good idea. No telling what is being blown up the tailboom and
into the cockpit.
The important thing for me is to insure the rodents won't chew through the
foam to get into the cockpit.
I have to be careful. I do not want to trap condensation, rain water, etc.,
inside the tailboom (a very intergral part of the aircraft).
Need to do something positive though, before the rodents start looking for
new nesting areas.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
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