---------------------------------------------------------- Kolb-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 01/24/11: 17 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 02:46 AM - Re: Re: aileron gap seal advice request (Pat Ladd) 2. 08:17 AM - Re: Re: aileron gap seal advice request (b young) 3. 08:57 AM - New Dremel accessory (Richard Girard) 4. 09:24 AM - Re: New Dremel accessory (Mike Welch) 5. 10:06 AM - Re: New Dremel accessory (John Hauck) 6. 10:56 AM - Re: New Dremel accessory (Mike Welch) 7. 11:09 AM - Re: New Dremel accessory (Richard Girard) 8. 11:55 AM - Re: New Dremel accessory (william sullivan) 9. 12:01 PM - Re: New Dremel accessory (Mike Welch) 10. 12:47 PM - Re: New Dremel accessory (Mike Welch) 11. 01:02 PM - Re: New Dremel accessory (william sullivan) 12. 02:35 PM - Dremel rotary tool (Mike Welch) 13. 02:46 PM - Re: Dremel rotary tool (william sullivan) 14. 03:10 PM - Re: Dremel rotary tool (John Hauck) 15. 05:25 PM - Re: Dremel rotary tool (Mike Welch) 16. 07:37 PM - Re: Dremel rotary tool (John Hauck) 17. 10:24 PM - Dependable instruments (Mike Welch) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 02:46:00 AM PST US From: "Pat Ladd" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: aileron gap seal advice request What I need to know is, do I need one on the bottom as well? If it's just for looks only, I'll go on top>> Hi Jimmy, It definitely is not `for looks only` it is for efficiency. The tape should go from the top surface of the wing to the underside of the aileron. On the other hand I have seen gliders, who REALLY worry about things like that and fit ailerons/elevaters/rudder to much tighter tolerances than a Kolb, use a tape to connect both TOP surfaces. Might be worth talking to a glider pilot who is current about it. My gliding experience is many years out of date. Cheers Pat ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 08:17:17 AM PST US From: "b young" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: aileron gap seal advice request What I need to know is, do I need one on the bottom as well? If it's just for looks only, I'll go on top>> Hi Jimmy, It definitely is not `for looks only` it is for efficiency. The tape should go from the top surface of the wing to the underside of the aileron. Cheers Pat >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> i did mine the way pat describes... but i used book binding tape, found an exact match,,, used 2 inch wide tape, overlalped sticky side to stick side 1 inch,,, leaving 1 inch sticky to attach to the top of wind and 1 inch sticky to attach to bottom of aileron. i guess you could do it with polly fiber,,, but not 100 % sure how to keep a straight line when gluing the inside line on the strip. maybe you could use some type of silicone tape. boyd young mkiii utah ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 08:57:01 AM PST US Subject: Kolb-List: New Dremel accessory From: Richard Girard A couple of months ago I was in Lowe's when I remembered I needed a package of cut off wheels for my Dremel. At the display I found they have a new cut off wheel and drive mandrel out. The old ones were fragile and used a single screw to attach the wheel to the mandrel. The new one uses a spring loaded collar on the mandrel with a positive drive key to engage the wheel. The whole thing is just plain slick. The new cut off wheels last 3 to 4 times as long as the old ones even going through alloy steel. I cut the heads off two AN 5 bolts and the wheel only lost an 1/8" off its diameter. If you go to Lowe's look carefully I found the mandrel and five wheels as a special for $15. Separately they're about $18. Just to keep this specifically Kolb related, I was removing the elevator hinge from the horizontal stabilizer of a Mk IIIX yesterday. The original builder did a poor job of drilling the holes and every one of the stainless steel pop rivets spun before the drill separated the head from the body. I used the edge of the new Dremel cut off wheel to shave the head head of the rivet until I could just see the line concentric to the center hole. A light tap with a punch and the rivet was removed with no more damage to the hole. I did all 48 rivets in about a half hour and moved on. The cutoff wheel barely showed any wear. Rick Girard -- Zulu Delta Mk IIIC Thanks Homer, GBYM It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy. - Groucho Marx ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 09:24:53 AM PST US From: Mike Welch Subject: RE: Kolb-List: New Dremel accessory >A couple of months ago I was in Lowe's when I remembered I needed a packag e of cut off wheels for my Dremel. Hi Rick=2C Hmmm. You find a nifty tool=2C and you wait a couple of months to share. Hmmm! >Just to keep this specifically Kolb related=2C I was removing the elevato r hinge >>Rick Girard Tools to use building airplanes are ALWAYS Kolb related!! No further exp lanation necessary. Speaking of Dremels..... I have a Ryobi cut-off tool. I have always li ke it=2C but it is 99% dead now!! It won't stay running for more than a few seconds=2C may be the brushes are burned up=2C but it's not worth trying to fix (IMO). At any ra te=2C I want a new cut-off tool. Since I just had a birthday a couple of days ago=2C I decide d I will get me one for a birthday gift....to me!! Since you recommend { finally : ) } the Dremel=2C and especially the new anvil mount=2C I'll head over and check them out!! Thanks=2C Rick BTW=2C are you referring to those fiber reinforced cut-o ff disks? The ones that come in that handy blue "slide out" container? I've used those for years. They are VERY durable! I used to break the cheapies in minutes=2C all the time. Sometim es=2C in only seconds. Mike Welch MkIII ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 10:06:34 AM PST US From: "John Hauck" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: New Dremel accessory Hmmm. You find a nifty tool, and you wait a couple of months to share. Hmmm! Mike Welch Mike W/Rick G/Gang: Realize this is not quite subject related, but wanted to share with you all, if you don't mind. I'm a die grinder kinda guy. I have a straight and a 90 degree grinder. Probably paid 15 or 20 dollars a piece for them. A few drops of Marvel Mystery Oil through the air intake every once in a while and they go forever. john h mkIII Titus, Alabama ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 10:56:12 AM PST US From: Mike Welch Subject: RE: Kolb-List: New Dremel accessory > A few drops of Marvel Mystery Oil through the air intake every once in a > while and they go forever. > > john h John=2C There's no doubt I demand a lot from my tools. Probably a lot more than they were originally intended to put out. I guess my approach is=3B if this too l can't get the job done=2C then "I'll get the next bigger model!!" I haven't tried the Marvel oil maintenance....but I will from now on. Da rn sure couldn't hurt. I kinda think my present Ryobi is toast=2C but what the heck=2C right now it's like an old 'straight six' running on 4 cylinders. I'll see if a little oil will h elp.... I did find on eBay that neat=2C new mandrel Rick was talking about. It h as a kind of butterfly hole in the disk=2C that spins and locks into the mandrel head. Nice feature. MY problem is: I liked the Ryobi because it had about 8-10 speeds. I don 't think the Dremel does. I'd miss that feature. In the last year=2C I burned up two hand-held grinders!! My old faithful Makita=2C and it's replacement Milwaukie. I'll be a little easier on my brand new Mi lwaukie. Plus=2C from now on=2C I'll use some Marvel oil once in awhile... Mike Welch ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 11:09:19 AM PST US Subject: Re: Kolb-List: New Dremel accessory From: Richard Girard Mike, The old cut off wheels I was referring to are the fiber reinforced ones with a 1/16" center hole for mounting. They were just too fragile for most anything and if you pushed them too hard the center cracked out and you were done. As you can see the new ones are much more robust. Rick On Mon, Jan 24, 2011 at 11:17 AM, Mike Welch wrote: > >A couple of months ago I was in Lowe's when I remembered I needed a > package of cut off wheels for my Dremel. > > > Hi Rick, > > Hmmm. You find a nifty tool, and you wait a couple of months to share. > Hmmm! > > > >Just to keep this specifically Kolb related, I was removing the elevator > hinge > >>Rick Girard > > Tools to use building airplanes are ALWAYS Kolb related!! No further > explanation > necessary. > > Speaking of Dremels..... I have a Ryobi cut-off tool. I have always > like it, but it > is 99% dead now!! It won't stay running for more than a few seconds, maybe > the > brushes are burned up, but it's not worth trying to fix (IMO). At any > rate, I want a new > cut-off tool. Since I just had a birthday a couple of days ago, I decided > I will get me > one for a birthday gift....to me!! > > Since you recommend { finally : ) } the Dremel, and especially the new > anvil mount, > I'll head over and check them out!! > > Thanks, Rick BTW, are you referring to those fiber reinforced cut-off > disks? The ones that > come in that handy blue "slide out" container? I've used those for years. > They are VERY > durable! I used to break the cheapies in minutes, all the time. > Sometimes, in only seconds. > > Mike Welch > MkIII > > > * > > * > > -- Zulu Delta Mk IIIC Thanks, Homer GBYM It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy. - Groucho Marx ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 11:55:40 AM PST US From: william sullivan Subject: RE: Kolb-List: New Dremel accessory - Mike- I don't think you can lube the electric tools.- Maybe a drop on the bearings.- If you use a Dremel for end grinding, like pushing straig ht in, the main shaft gets set back.- My battery powered Dremel did that- my fault.- I was able to disassemble and push the shaft back into positi on.- John was talking about the air powered ones.- If you have a compre ssor, get the 1/4" drive tools.- By name brand ones, like Ingersoll or Ch icago Pneumatic, or Snap-on.- Craftsman used to make a 1/4" drive electri c die grinder- 110V. - ------------------------- ---------------------- Bill Sul livan --- On Mon, 1/24/11, Mike Welch wrote: From: Mike Welch Subject: RE: Kolb-List: New Dremel accessory > A few drops of Marvel Mystery Oil through the air intake every once in a > while and they go forever. > > john h - ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 12:01:57 PM PST US From: Mike Welch Subject: RE: Kolb-List: New Dremel accessory Hi Rick=2C The disks that I was referring to were fragile=2C unreinforced kind. If you breathed on them hard=2C they broke!! Pretty near useless=2C IMO=2C unless you were cutting balsa wood....slowly!! The 'much better' ones I was referring to are the fiber reinforced ones. I generally got lots of mileage out of these....that is=2C unless I bumped them sideways=2C or layed the tool down too hard. I have bent in half dozens of these. Yes=2C they do have the rediculously little 1/16" hole!! I haven't seen the new cut-off discs you're referring to. I'll make it a point to check them out. As I previously stated=2C I really liked the Ryobi rotary tool. But=2C I 'm open to recommendations regarding the Dremel. Does anyone have a "preferred model" they like.....and why? Mike Welch ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 12:47:23 PM PST US From: Mike Welch Subject: RE: Kolb-List: New Dremel accessory Hi Bill=2C Thanks for pointing that out re: air tools. I didn't catch that. Doh!! No=2C I never use the rotary tool for anything except the cut-off discs. I know about oil in air tools. That's not new to me=2C I just misunderst ood what he was getting at. Thanks=2C Bill. Yeah=2C I know what you are getting at regarding the "name brand" tools. I think that is where they got that expression=3B You get what you pay for !!! Mike ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 01:02:08 PM PST US From: william sullivan Subject: RE: Kolb-List: New Dremel accessory - Mike- if you have a compressor, then I really recommend a 90 degree too l with the 3M "Roloc" disc accessory.- The sanding discs will remove a lo t of metal, and the "scruffy pad" discs will polish.- Nice for brazing pr ep and finish, and polishing welds.- Very controllable. - ------------------------- ---------------------- Bill Sul livan --- On Mon, 1/24/11, Mike Welch wrote: From: Mike Welch Subject: RE: Kolb-List: New Dremel accessory Hi Bill, - - Thanks for pointing that out re: air tools.- I didn't catch that.- Doh!! - - No, I never use the rotary tool for anything except the cut-off discs. - - I know about oil in air tools.- That's not new to me, I just misunder stood what he was getting at.-- Thanks, Bill. - - Yeah, I know what you are getting at regarding the "name brand" tools. I think that is where they got that expression;- You get what you pay for !!! - - Mike ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 02:35:35 PM PST US From: Mike Welch Subject: Kolb-List: Dremel rotary tool Hi Bill=2C Don't get me wrong=2C tools I've got!!!! I've spent a life in constructi on and have TONS of tools. Air tools=2C hand-held electric=2C battery powered =2C you name it=2C I've got it. If I don't 'got' it=2C I'm not likely to get o ne now. My wife says wants me to start downsizing=2C too=2C "so we can retire". I have one of those air grinders you mentioned=2C but I hardly ever use i t. Yes=2C I have a compressor. Actually=2C I have 3 shop types. I did recent ly sell my 'tow behind' Ingersoll-Rand diesel compressor=2C tho. Naw=2C what I'm looking for at this point is a new A/C rotary tool... either Dremel=2C or Ryobi=2C or possibly another brand that comes highly recommended. I would consider a battery rotary tool=2C but only if it always sat in th e charger (when not in use). That way=2C it would always be charged up. I have three hand-held grinders. My 4" Milwaukie=2C my 4 1/2" Ryobi=2C a nd my industrial model...7" Milwaukie. The little rotary tool I have (the Ryobi) was for really little intricate stuff. Like the kind of stuff that needs a 1" cutting wheel. Thanks=2C Mike ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 02:46:17 PM PST US From: william sullivan Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Dremel rotary tool Mike--I have to re-tool.- I have a Ryobi 4 1/2" grinder, and it was a b argain at about $40.- But no air compressor.- I do have a battery power ed Dremel, but only one battery.- I'm going to get a 110v one. -When I had to stop work I left my air tools with friends at the shop.- There are days when I regret it.- Besides, when you have the tools, you can always find somebody to use them.- I never should have listened to the doctor. - I should have just bought a compressor. - do not archive ------------------------- ------------------------ Bi ll Sullivan- --- On Mon, 1/24/11, Mike Welch wrote: From: Mike Welch Subject: Kolb-List: Dremel rotary tool Hi Bill, - - Don't get me wrong, tools I've got!!!!- I've spent a life in construc tion and have TONS of tools.- Air tools, hand-held electric, battery powered, you name it, I've got it.- If I don't 'got' it, I'm not likely to get one now. My wife says wants me to start downsizing, too, "so we can retire".- - - I have one of those air grinders you mentioned, but I hardly ever use i t. Yes, I have a compressor.- Actually, I have 3 shop types.- I did recent ly sell my 'tow behind' Ingersoll-Rand diesel compressor, tho. - - Naw, what I'm looking for at this point is a new A/C rotary tool... either Dremel, or Ryobi, or possibly another brand that comes highly recommended. - I would consider a battery rotary tool, but only if it always sat in th e charger (when not in use).- That way, it would always be charged up.- - - I have three hand-held grinders.- My 4" Milwaukie, my 4 1/2" Ryobi, a nd my industrial model...7" Milwaukie.- The little rotary tool I have (the Ryob i) was for really little intricate stuff.- Like the kind of stuff that needs a 1 " cutting wheel. - Thanks, - Mike ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 03:10:54 PM PST US From: "John Hauck" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Dremel rotary tool Don't get me wrong, tools I've got!!!! I've spent a life in construction and have TONS of tools. Air tools, hand-held electric, battery powered, you name it, I've got it. Mike Mike W/Kolbers: Doncha think Mike ought to have that mkIII flying by now with all those tools. ;-) john h( Brother Jim was cutting and welding up my mkIII fuselage at Homer's 20 years ago.) mkIII Titus, Alabama ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 05:25:34 PM PST US From: Mike Welch Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Dremel rotary tool > Doncha think Mike ought to have that mkIII flying by now with all those > tools. =3B-) > > john h John=2C House completion=2C odds and ends=2C freezin' cold shop=2C and all kinds of other poor excuses!!! I could turn the heat-pump on in my shop=2C but I found ou t that gets a little expensive. Add on top of all that=2C 3 weeks ago today I hurt my upper back while wo rking on my storm cellar. I can't carry those 100 pound bags of mortar like I us ed to. I've had a pinched nerve and nagging headache every day since!! Ya ca n't get much done when you're 'uh hurtin'". By the way=2C a progress update=3B I installed my front instrument panel /radio console a couple of days ago. I had a couple of minor antenna cable issues =2C but I got those all resolved today. Just for s & giggles=2C I made a little wind tunnel for the pitot system =2C prior to carrying the panel over to the shop. (I borrowed my wife's hair dryer =2C which surprisingly=2C worked VERY well. I taped up the 'heat' button=2C so it blew only cold air) Here's what I found out=3B The Dynon D10A EFIS and the UMA airspeed indicator were virtually exact in their respective readings. In fact=2C it surprised me how much they rea d the same. One thing=2C though. The UMA airspeed indicator was "not as precise". I t seemed to lag about 2-3 mph. This trait did NOT appear to be a safety problem=2C just a little annoying that it wasn't as gnat's-ass accurate as the Dynon. The Dynon was phenomenally sensitive to the slightest change in air pressure. I get the impression it is accurate to less than 1 mph=2C whereas I would give the UM A an accuracy of about 2 mph. Either one of them would be plenty qualified to be a primary source of airspeed information=2C it's just that the Dynon was soooo much more precise!! (What would you expect for the $$? Remember the "you get what you pay for" adage?) I was very surprised to find out that they both coincided in their readin g so well. I feel a lot more confident that I have (at least one) excellent=2C trust worthy airspeed indicator!! Before my little wind tunnel test=2C I did not know t his!! For the record=2C I wasn't trying to establish that either one of the air speed indicators was "exact" in their accuracy=2C but rather=2C that they=2C in fact=2C work ed at all!! I do NOT want to get myself in a situation where I ASSUMED everything will work prop erly=2C just because I want them to!! I'm a firm believer in 'trust=2C yet verify! !' I look forward to warmer weather. Can't get much done in this kind of cold temps. I think I should be able to fire up the engine in a couple of weeks=2C or so. Now=2C THAT should be interesting!!! Mike W ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 07:37:04 PM PST US From: "John Hauck" Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Dremel rotary tool One thing, though. The UMA airspeed indicator was "not as precise". It seemed to lag about 2-3 mph. This trait did NOT appear to be a safety problem, just a little annoying that it wasn't as gnat's-ass accurate as the Dynon. The Dynon was phenomenally sensitive to the slightest change in air pressure. I get the impression it is accurate to less than 1 mph, whereas I would give the UMA an accuracy of about 2 mph. Mike W Mike W/Kolbers: The UMA may turn out to be a better ASI than the one you spent all that money on, the Dynon. I don't know that. However, the UMA lags, am guessing you mean it does not change indication instantly, because it has a built in dampner to prevent the needle from bouncing around at every tiny, minute bit of disturbed air, air pressure, etc. Without the dampner the needle would probably be a blur. Just guess, of course. To me the most important aspect of the ASI is that it will indicate to me where my stall speed is so I can stay above it. ASI's are very reliable. Usually alway work well enough to establish stall speed, unless one forgets to take off the pitot cover, a dirt dauber or spider takes up residence in the pitot tube, or someone blows into the pitot tube to see if the ASI really works. john h mkIII Titus, Alabama ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 10:24:01 PM PST US From: Mike Welch Subject: Kolb-List: Dependable instruments > The UMA may turn out to be a better ASI than the one you spent all that > money on=2C the Dynon. I don't know that. Hi John=2C The UMA being the better indicator=2C naw=2C I don't think so. It's hard to describe very accurately=2C but the Dynon airspeed readings were smooth. With the pitot inlet propped up in place=2C directly inline with the airstr eam=2C I could vary the airspeed readings by adjusting the distance from the pitot opening from the hair dryer flow of air. I could get a reading of about 60 mph max @ 1"=2C or as little as 10-15mph @ about 12". So=2C with both units reading....let's say 50 mph. If I don't move anyth ing=2C they both continue to read the same airspeed fairly well. They also both seem t o agree closely=2C almost all the time. Any disparity was never more than 3 mph. Now=2C if I stick my finger in the airsteam just a bit=2C the Dynon will reflect a modest decrease=2C 1=2C 2=2C maybe even 3 mph=2C but the UMA...no change. If I remove my finger out of the flow of air=2C the Dynon goes back to 50. In the meantime=2C the UMA never left 50. Would a more expensive pitot style airspeed indicator have performed bett er? Absolutely!! There is a reason why they cost several hundreds=2C and this UMA only costs $169. I've heard it said=2C you get what you pay for. > However=2C the UMA lags=2C am guessing you mean it does not change indica tion > instantly=2C because it has a built in dampner to prevent the needle from > bouncing around at every tiny=2C minute bit of disturbed air=2C air press ure=2C > etc. Without the dampner the needle would probably be a blur. BTW=2C it wasn't such that the UMA 'lagged'. With small airspeed changes =2C it didn't lag=2C it just didn't change at all!! If the airspeed pitot pressur e exceeded 4-5mph=2C then the needle would move. I am not knocking the UMA. It has shown it performs plenty good enough t o provide accurate (enough) airspeed readings. But=2C I am convinced a much more expensive unit would be 'more sensitive'=2C that's all. > To me the most important aspect of the ASI is that it will indicate to me > where my stall speed is so I can stay above it. I couldn't agree more!!!!! As was previously established in an earlier t hread=2C regardless of whether your airspeed indicator says 40 or 400=2C (at stall) THAT'S the magic number to stay above!! > ASI's are very reliable. Usually alway work well enough to establish stal l > speed That's what I wanted to establish=2C namely=2C that these things simply w ork!! By all accounts=2C they seem to be functioning quite well. This fact is all I was counting on! Whatever reading they say at stall=2C that will be the 'magic number' to stay much higher than. =2C unless one forgets to take off the pitot cover=2C a dirt dauber or > spider takes up residence in the pitot tube=2C or someone blows into the pitot > tube to see if the ASI really works. > john h > mkIII > Titus=2C Alabama Had that happen to me once. I was half way down the runway and the airsp eed indicator was still stuck at zero. Slow down=2C turned off the runway=2C d id some investigating. A mud dauber had made a new home in my pitot tube. Dug out the dirt...worked like a champ!! BTW=2C is anyone curious how fast a hornet is when he is 8" away from you r hand=2C while you're checking your oil? Let's just say=2C faster than you'd think! ! And yes=2C they do leave scars!! Mike Welch ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message kolb-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/kolb-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/kolb-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.