Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:23 AM - Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 04/15/11 (Ted Cowan)
2. 05:03 AM - Re: Landing Light...How do you aim them.. (Carolina Flyer)
3. 06:43 AM - Re: Kolb flyers near Chattanooga? (Dan Breitigam)
4. 08:48 AM - Re: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 04/15/11 (Herb)
5. 09:19 AM - Re: Landing Light...How do you aim them.. (Richard Pike)
6. 10:51 AM - Re: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 04/15/11 (b young)
7. 02:34 PM - Re: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 04/15/11 (robert bean)
8. 04:27 PM - Re: 2nd Flight! (Richard Pike)
9. 05:32 PM - Que pachuca con toluca! (chris davis)
10. 08:58 PM - Re: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 04/15/11 (Gregor Taylor)
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| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 04/15/11 |
Going to add to this discussion of getting your registration on your plane.
The FAA recommended you purchase an already licensed plane and add your
plane parts to it. Duh, how about purchasing a crashed plane and taking the
id tag off of it and installing it on yours and making the adjustments to
your plane to match the other ID. The FAA couldnt tell you to do that cause
it is basically illegal but we just have two rivets stopping you. for what
it is worth. ted
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| Subject: | Re: Landing Light...How do you aim them.. |
I just made a deal to get another Firestar II and I plan on using ice maker plastic
tubing to be conduit for wires running inside my wings. Is the wing strut
connect location the best place for landing Lights. It looks good to me. I will
have conduit run for my strobes and position lights as well.
Richard, I have a question for you. Are your wings rib stitched, or did you use
rivets like most people use.... Joe
--------
Kolb Firestar II
503 C-Box / RK400 Clutch
Phantom
503 B-Box
Location : Buffalo South Carolina
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=337114#337114
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| Subject: | Re: Kolb flyers near Chattanooga? |
Thanks guys for the advice. Also for the advice I received off-list. Found a place
to keep my Twinstar. Great deal out at Collegedale Muni. 100/mo and no waiting.
No insurance requirements either, and the people out there are very friendly.
Thanks!
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=337121#337121
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| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 04/15/11 |
Guess that is why N numbers/ id tags are valuable? My bud will pay
1k for one or the other or both.....Do not know the exact methods,
but that is the discussion I had with him the other day at a flyin...Herb
At 05:20 AM 4/16/2011, you wrote:
>
>Going to add to this discussion of getting your registration on your
>plane. The FAA recommended you purchase an already licensed plane
>and add your plane parts to it. Duh, how about purchasing a crashed
>plane and taking the id tag off of it and installing it on yours and
>making the adjustments to your plane to match the other ID. The FAA
>couldnt tell you to do that cause it is basically illegal but we
>just have two rivets stopping you. for what it is worth. ted
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Landing Light...How do you aim them.. |
Carolina Flyer wrote:
> I just made a deal to get another Firestar II and I plan on using ice maker plastic
tubing to be conduit for wires running inside my wings. Is the wing strut
connect location the best place for landing Lights. It looks good to me. I
will have conduit run for my strobes and position lights as well.
>
> Richard, I have a question for you. Are your wings rib stitched, or did you use
rivets like most people use.... Joe
On the MKIII it is all rib stitched. On the FSII, one wing is mostlly rib stitched,
the other wing is all riveted, because I used the holes from the previous
rivets that were already there. And then in some places I used rivets simply
because it was hard to get the needle to go there.
I can rib stitch pretty fast, and if you have a friend, it goes real fast and you
can yak while you do it, it is pleasant work. With a friend helping rib stitch,
you can easily knock out both wings in a morning.
Probably the real reason I prefer to rib stitch; inevitably when drilling holes
for the rivets, I will slip and mess up one which buggers up that skinny rib
tube, and I hate that. Rib stitching removes that possibility from the equation.
As far as running conduit for the wires - just run the wires inside the wing and
at every place they cross a rib, wrap them with tape as an extra cushion and
then tie them tightly to the rib or brace with rib stitching cord, they'll do
fine.
Not that the ice maker conduit wouldn't work, I wouldn't have the patience to feed
the wires through it. Besides, get yourself into the mind set that you will
save every ounce you can, because ounces add up. Light Kolbs climb better, and
fly faster at lower rpm. Which equals less fuel burn.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=337136#337136
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| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 04/15/11 |
Going to add to this discussion of getting your registration on your
plane.
The FAA recommended you purchase an already licensed plane and add your
plane parts to it. Duh, how about purchasing a crashed plane and taking
the
id tag off of it and installing it on yours and making the adjustments
to
your plane to match the other ID. The FAA couldnt tell you to do that
cause
it is basically illegal but we just have two rivets stopping you. for
what
it is worth. ted
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
i am not sure if it is illegal or not... i know of plane rebuilders
that have taken a totaled aircraft,,,, salvaged 12 inches of straight
tube from the tail section and the serial number and data plate, and
rebuilt the rest from scratch from brand new parts,,,, it still was a
1952 model plane that was rebuilt in 1998, because it was rebuilt, it
was still a certified aircraft that was worth a lot more than an
experimental home built. just because it had the data plate,, to my
knowledge, this type of activity is fully legal,
so if you buy a totaled plane,,, i think you have to use some part of
it to call it a rebuild,,, and not just a data plate swap.
oooookay i just got off the phone with an a&p and he said " from
his training and in his opinion" you don't have to re use any parts of
the old plane,,,, just the data plate. he is in the process of
rebuilding a cub with all new parts, and an old data plate,,, a 1952
cub with 2500 hours and most of the parts have not been off the
ground. the year of manufacture and hours are attributed to the data
plate, not the rest of the plane, because his is a certified plane, all
parts have to be faa pma certified parts for the data plate he is using.
he did mention by way of an example that if the plane you want to put
in the air is Cessna 150b model... you cant get a data plate from a
150a it has to be a 150b. the other thing that you will have to
concern yourself with is the registration of the wrecked plane,,, if
the faa has sent the re registration notice for the wreck and it was not
turned in,,, or not turned in 90 days from the second notice,,, the
tail number is no longer valid, so you will have to buy a wreck in
which the faa registration is still good. if the faa pulled the tail
number,,, you wont get anything back for 5 years, this is the
incentive for sending in the paperwork on time. so if you total your
aircraft,,,, and want to some day rebuild,,, or sell the data plate,,,
send in the paperwork and re register the plane/ tail number, this
will reserve your rights to be able to rebuild or sell the data plate.
so you wont end up with a lawn decoration.'
i know there are some a&p / ia's in the group... is my a&p friend
correct?
boyd young
mkIII utah
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 04/15/11 |
In regard to certificated airplanes, it has been long accepted practice
to be able to create a new airplane from
a data plate and a set of papers. -in fact, at one time you could easily
procure new paperwork directly from the FAA for this.
I arranged a swap with two other parties where, for an E-2 piper/taylor
registration, my neighbor got a nice original sensenich wood prop
andI got a set of rebuildable jugs for my A-65.
Now this will become a moot point with the re-registration procedure
recently started. This will take out a lot of those
"airplanes in a drawer" because the geezers who have them won't bother
to keep up appearances. *poof* no more airplane.
With experimentals or certified, if it has been reported wrecked, I
wouldn't anticipate an easy path.
That leaves three routes:
1. remove enough stuff to go legal 103. (you don't really need that
plastic seat, extra gauges, brakes)
2. buy a wreck for the papers that HASN'T been reported.
3. strip that baby down and make it look like new. Apply for new papers.
This would be my favored approach.
BB
MkIII, new registration, wrecked airplane parts.
On 16, Apr 2011, at 1:46 PM, b young wrote:
>
> Going to add to this discussion of getting your registration on your
plane.
> The FAA recommended you purchase an already licensed plane and add
your
> plane parts to it. Duh, how about purchasing a crashed plane and
taking the
> id tag off of it and installing it on yours and making the adjustments
to
> your plane to match the other ID. The FAA couldnt tell you to do that
cause
> it is basically illegal but we just have two rivets stopping you. for
what
> it is worth. ted
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> i am not sure if it is illegal or not... i know of plane rebuilders
that have taken a totaled aircraft,,,, salvaged 12 inches of straight
tube from the tail section and the serial number and data plate, and
rebuilt the rest from scratch from brand new parts,,,, it still was a
1952 model plane that was rebuilt in 1998, because it was rebuilt, it
was still a certified aircraft that was worth a lot more than an
experimental home built. just because it had the data plate,, to my
knowledge, this type of activity is fully legal,
>
> so if you buy a totaled plane,,, i think you have to use some part of
it to call it a rebuild,,, and not just a data plate swap.
>
>
> oooookay i just got off the phone with an a&p and he said " from
his training and in his opinion" you don't have to re use any parts of
the old plane,,,, just the data plate. he is in the process of
rebuilding a cub with all new parts, and an old data plate,,, a 1952
cub with 2500 hours and most of the parts have not been off the
ground. the year of manufacture and hours are attributed to the data
plate, not the rest of the plane, because his is a certified plane, all
parts have to be faa pma certified parts for the data plate he is using.
he did mention by way of an example that if the plane you want to put
in the air is Cessna 150b model... you cant get a data plate from a
150a it has to be a 150b. the other thing that you will have to
concern yourself with is the registration of the wrecked plane,,, if
the faa has sent the re registration notice for the wreck and it was not
turned in,,, or not turned in 90 days from the second notice,,, the
tail number is no longer valid, so you will have to buy a wreck in
which the faa registration is still good. if the faa pulled the tail
number,,, you wont get anything back for 5 years, this is the
incentive for sending in the paperwork on time. so if you total your
aircraft,,,, and want to some day rebuild,,, or sell the data plate,,,
send in the paperwork and re register the plane/ tail number, this
will reserve your rights to be able to rebuild or sell the data plate.
so you wont end up with a lawn decoration.'
>
> i know there are some a&p / ia's in the group... is my a&p friend
correct?
>
>
> boyd young
> mkIII utah
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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[quote="gtaylor35918(at)roadrunne"]Kolbers,
I appreciate all the info, I have the plane down to roughly about 288,
with no BRS. The faa told me I basically had to options, use my firestar to
repair one that is currently registered, or get it down to 254 LBS. My biggest
worry with flying it as a fat ultralight is if they were to ramp check me and
find it overweight what my punishment would be, or how would it affect my
private/instrument rating.
> ---
The way I see it, you need to strip the fabric off the airplane and take it apart.
Weigh the various pieces, and see what you can make go away. Eliminate everything
you can do without. Period.
Until you get it down to 245 pounds, you need to keep at it. Then recover it using
U/L fabric and minimal paint. I suspect that if you came below 260 pounds,
you might be able to skate, but you need to get it very, very close. Due to changes
in humidity, etc, there are legitimate variables, but I would aim for under
260 if I was concerned about making the scales.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=337161#337161
Message 9
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| Subject: | Que pachuca con toluca! |
Just my cuiorosity, but how many of us have ever been weighed on a ramp check?
Had my Firestar sitting at the fuel pump at Chatham municipal when an FAA
inspector walked by (gave me a heart attack) he said when talking to the
electronics man setting up the automatic weather reporting unit"serious looking
little aircraft" and thats as close as my KXP weighing 330lbs ever got go a ramp
check!
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly
----- Original Message ----
From: Richard Pike <richard@bcchapel.org>
Sent: Sat, April 16, 2011 7:22:47 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 2nd Flight!
[quote="gtaylor35918(at)roadrunne"]Kolbers,
I appreciate all the info, I have the plane down to roughly about 288,
with no BRS. The faa told me I basically had to options, use my firestar to
repair one that is currently registered, or get it down to 254 LBS. My biggest
worry with flying it as a fat ultralight is if they were to ramp check me and
find it overweight what my punishment would be, or how would it affect my
private/instrument rating.
> ---
The way I see it, you need to strip the fabric off the airplane and take it
apart. Weigh the various pieces, and see what you can make go away. Eliminate
everything you can do without. Period.
Until you get it down to 245 pounds, you need to keep at it. Then recover it
using U/L fabric and minimal paint. I suspect that if you came below 260 pounds,
you might be able to skate, but you need to get it very, very close. Due to
changes in humidity, etc, there are legitimate variables, but I would aim for
under 260 if I was concerned about making the scales.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=337161#337161
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 04/15/11 |
I am going to keep shooting for the 103 and at the same time keep my eye
out for the right deal on a damaged Firestar 1 (5 spar) that is
currently registered. I really appreciate all the info and ideas, I want
to keep everything above the table and do everything the honest way, as
God wants me too, because ultimately I answer to him. I am going to be
looking into the rebuild idea and find out from the faa what is exactly
is allowed and see what I can do from there. I have found a couple of
planes right now that fits the bill, the problem is the cash is not
there right now. I am always checking the post because I know all of you
guys have been there and done that so to speak and I really do
appreciate all the knowledge that comes from this list.
Thanks again,
Greg
----- Original Message -----
From: robert bean
To: kolb-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 04/15/11
In regard to certificated airplanes, it has been long accepted
practice to be able to create a new airplane from
a data plate and a set of papers. -in fact, at one time you could
easily procure new paperwork directly from the FAA for this.
I arranged a swap with two other parties where, for an E-2
piper/taylor registration, my neighbor got a nice original sensenich
wood prop
andI got a set of rebuildable jugs for my A-65.
Now this will become a moot point with the re-registration procedure
recently started. This will take out a lot of those
"airplanes in a drawer" because the geezers who have them won't bother
to keep up appearances. *poof* no more airplane.
With experimentals or certified, if it has been reported wrecked, I
wouldn't anticipate an easy path.
That leaves three routes:
1. remove enough stuff to go legal 103. (you don't really need that
plastic seat, extra gauges, brakes)
2. buy a wreck for the papers that HASN'T been reported.
3. strip that baby down and make it look like new. Apply for new
papers. This would be my favored approach.
BB
MkIII, new registration, wrecked airplane parts.
On 16, Apr 2011, at 1:46 PM, b young wrote:
Going to add to this discussion of getting your registration on your
plane.
The FAA recommended you purchase an already licensed plane and add
your
plane parts to it. Duh, how about purchasing a crashed plane and
taking the
id tag off of it and installing it on yours and making the
adjustments to
your plane to match the other ID. The FAA couldnt tell you to do
that cause
it is basically illegal but we just have two rivets stopping you.
for what
it is worth. ted
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
i am not sure if it is illegal or not... i know of plane rebuilders
that have taken a totaled aircraft,,,, salvaged 12 inches of straight
tube from the tail section and the serial number and data plate, and
rebuilt the rest from scratch from brand new parts,,,, it still was a
1952 model plane that was rebuilt in 1998, because it was rebuilt, it
was still a certified aircraft that was worth a lot more than an
experimental home built. just because it had the data plate,, to my
knowledge, this type of activity is fully legal,
so if you buy a totaled plane,,, i think you have to use some part
of it to call it a rebuild,,, and not just a data plate swap.
oooookay i just got off the phone with an a&p and he said "
from his training and in his opinion" you don't have to re use any
parts of the old plane,,,, just the data plate. he is in the process
of rebuilding a cub with all new parts, and an old data plate,,, a
1952 cub with 2500 hours and most of the parts have not been off the
ground. the year of manufacture and hours are attributed to the data
plate, not the rest of the plane, because his is a certified plane, all
parts have to be faa pma certified parts for the data plate he is using.
he did mention by way of an example that if the plane you want to put
in the air is Cessna 150b model... you cant get a data plate from a
150a it has to be a 150b. the other thing that you will have to
concern yourself with is the registration of the wrecked plane,,, if
the faa has sent the re registration notice for the wreck and it was not
turned in,,, or not turned in 90 days from the second notice,,, the
tail number is no longer valid, so you will have to buy a wreck in
which the faa registration is still good. if the faa pulled the tail
number,,, you wont get anything back for 5 years, this is the
incentive for sending in the paperwork on time. so if you total your
aircraft,,,, and want to some day rebuild,,, or sell the data plate,,,
send in the paperwork and re register the plane/ tail number, this
will reserve your rights to be able to rebuild or sell the data plate.
so you wont end up with a lawn decoration.'
i know there are some a&p / ia's in the group... is my a&p friend
correct?
boyd young
mkIII utah
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