Today's Message Index:
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1. 05:22 AM - Re: Re: Firefly Instrument panel (russ kinne)
2. 06:55 AM - Re: Re: Firefly Instrument panel (Phil)
3. 05:24 PM - Ultrastar Landing Gear (Lloyd McFarlane)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Firefly Instrument panel |
Just a suggestion -- the nearest EAA chapter may have, or know of, hole-punches
you could borrow or rent.
Nearly every builder needs them at some point.
Russ K
On Dec 27, 2011, at 3:57 PM, t41pilot wrote:
>
> Thanks to all that have replied so far. The info is definately useful. Mike,
I had suspicions that the hole saw may not cut a clean hole and I think you have
confirmed that. I forgot that hole punches existed and I will look into that
for sure. I don't have the instruments in my possesion yet so I don't know
how much bezel is available to cover up a ragged edge on an imperfect cut if
I do ultimately have to use a hole cutter for whatever reason but that would play
into a decision as well. I like the removable panel idea but am concerned
about the added weight. The firefly already approaches the weight limit of part
103 and I'm trying to stay within limits if possible. Are the detachable
panels typically made of aluminum or wood? I already know that I can't reach the
panel when seated so what I have in mind is similar to what degbot has. A
grand rapids EIS and separate Alt, Aspd and compass in the panel. Switches mounted
elsewhere. I'm a lightweight at 145 pounds so
I!
> 'm expecting to have to have additional seat cushions to move me forward to get
into the CG envelope. Good to hear from you again Phil. I know that you were
thinking of going without a nosecone. How are you mounting your instruments?
Also thanks to boyd for the H brace info.
>
> --------
> Gregg Kaat
> 2011 Firefly
>
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> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361784#361784
>
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>
>
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>
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>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Firefly Instrument panel |
But then you need something for the straight edges, if you have any...
-
You got me curious. Plus, as I said, I need to face this challenge soon. Th
erefore, I went to Ace and bought some 0.09" plex just to see if I could do
it. Here are some pics:
http://phactor.com/Kolb/plexi_1.jpg
http://phactor.com/Kolb/plexi_2.jpg
For the round gauges, I started a 1/8" pilot hole and then used a rusty (bu
t sharp) old 2" hole saw. I left the protective plastic on, but discovered
it might be best to remove it; when I was drilling one of the small mountin
g screw holes later, the bit caught it and quickly wound up the entire prot
ective sheet into one little ball wrapped around the bit (not fatal; rather
funny, actually).
I also discovered you can NOT go fast with the hole saw; that's a lot of me
tal and friction and you do NOT want to melt the plastic any more than you
have to. The saw got stuck-in the first hole and I had to spend some time
carefully unsticking it (came out just fine!).
The 2nd 2" hole was a breeze. 1/8" pilot hole, then SLOWLY drill with the 2
" saw. The plexi disc pops out inside the saw (common with a hole saw) so y
ou have to pop it out; not hard to do.
Straight edges: I tried a small Harbor Freight utility hobby saw 1 1/2" dia
. but you can't take it to the corners with that. Then I tried drilling a 1
/8" pilot hole in a corner and using my Dremel with a 1/8" RotoZip zip bit
(it grinds on the sides, not the end of the bit)-- if you do that (which
worked well), then you ARE melting plastic (desired) and you have to get a
reeeeally firm grip on the tool; it can travel quickly. I found-the highe
st speed my Dremel would wind up to was best.
File the edges with metal files or sand paper. Keep in mind that edges are
largely hidden by the gauges anyway. Whatever you get; plexi, lexan, I woul
dn't be afraid of it being brittle; just be cautious of scratching where yo
u don't want scratches. My sample seemed quite robust (isn't that by design
nowadays?). And buy extra to practice on! The above was ONLY a test.
My 0.02
Phil H - 2011 FF76
-
--- On Sat, 12/31/11, russ kinne <russkinne@mac.com> wrote:
From: russ kinne <russkinne@mac.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Firefly Instrument panel
Just a suggestion -- the nearest EAA chapter may have, or know of, hole-pun
ches you could borrow or rent.
Nearly every builder needs them at some point.
Russ K
On Dec 27, 2011, at 3:57 PM, t41pilot wrote:
>
> Thanks to all that have replied so far. The info is definately useful. Mi
ke, I had suspicions that the hole saw may not cut a clean hole and I think
you have confirmed- that. I forgot that hole punches existed and I will
look into that for sure.- I don't have the instruments in my possesion ye
t so I don't know how much bezel is available to cover up a ragged edge on
an imperfect cut if I do ultimately have to use a hole cutter for whatever
reason but that would play into a decision as well.- I like the removable
panel idea but am concerned about the added weight.- The firefly already
approaches the weight limit of part 103 and I'm trying to stay within limi
ts if possible.- Are the detachable panels typically made of aluminum or
wood? I already know that I can't reach the panel when seated so what I hav
e in mind is similar to what degbot has.- A grand rapids EIS and separate
Alt, Aspd and compass in the panel.- Switches mounted elsewhere.- I'm
a
lightweight at 145 pounds so
I!
> 'm expecting to have to have additional seat cushions to move me forward
to get into the CG envelope.- Good to hear from you again Phil.- I know
that you were thinking of going without a nosecone. How are you mounting y
our instruments? Also thanks to boyd for the H brace info.
>
> --------
> Gregg Kaat
> 2011 Firefly
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361784#361784
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
le, List Admin.
le, List Admin.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Ultrastar Landing Gear |
A friend of mine needs a left landing gear assembly. Anyone out there
that would like to part with one?
Lloyd McFarlane
FireStar II/N6122L
Fullerton, CA
714-525-8429
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