Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:33 AM - Re: Monument Valley (John Bickham)
2. 05:42 AM - Re: Key West Regulator (George Alexander)
3. 06:16 AM - Re: Re: Monument Valley (Pat Ladd)
4. 06:22 AM - Re: Key West Regulator (Richard Pike)
5. 06:41 AM - Re: Re: Key West Regulator (Herb Gayheart)
6. 07:33 AM - Re: 2.5" IVO prop spacer (Richard Girard)
7. 09:16 AM - pusher belt drive prop (Malcolm Brubaker)
8. 09:33 AM - Replies from Ivo Prop (Lanny Fetterman)
9. 09:39 AM - Re: pusher belt drive prop (Pat Ladd)
10. 09:40 AM - Re: pusher belt drive prop (b young)
11. 11:15 AM - Re: 2.5" IVO prop spacer (Ron @ KFHU)
12. 02:11 PM - Re: pusher belt drive prop (Richard Girard)
13. 02:35 PM - Re: pusher belt drive prop (Pat Ladd)
14. 02:35 PM - Re: Re: Key West Regulator (Dana Hague)
15. 02:51 PM - Re: pusher belt drive prop (John Hauck)
16. 03:27 PM - Re: FAA registration renewal (Richard Pike)
17. 03:59 PM - Re: pusher belt drive prop (b young)
18. 04:25 PM - Re: pusher belt drive prop (Malcolm Brubaker)
19. 06:20 PM - Re: Re: FAA registration renewal (WhiskeyVictor36@aol.com)
20. 06:44 PM - Re: Re: Key West Regulator (Richard Girard)
21. 06:53 PM - Re: pusher belt drive prop (Richard Girard)
22. 06:59 PM - Re: Re: Key West Regulator (Herb Gayheart)
23. 07:47 PM - Re: Re: Key West Regulator (DAquaNut@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley |
http://kolbadventures.blogspot.com/
Blog kept during trip in 2009. Almost real time. Trip of a lifetime. 2.5 years
goes by fast.
If your interested.
--------
Thanks too much,
John Bickham
Mark III-C w/ 912UL
St. Francisville, LA
I know many pilots and a few true aviators. There is a distinct difference that
I have the greatest respect for.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364555#364555
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Key West Regulator |
Ed:
Im not an expert, but I believe that it should be to the airframe. Every drawing
that I have seen shows a common ground (airframe?) throughout the installation.
A couple of Howevers though.
Many installations put a separate grounding strap from the engine to the airframe
(a braided strap) and then ground, at a convienant place, the devices fed
by the system.
If the loads off the KW are not too demanding and depending on how they are wired,
the brown to the Neg (-) on the KW would be ok, not ideal, but ok.
As Beauford would say.... "Worth what you paid for it!" (Who by the way, uses
a KW and an EIS.)
DAquaNut(at)aol.com wrote:
> George, I was the one who wired my firefly originally and have 170
hours on it. Do I need to run
> the brown wire from the engine to the airframe? That
is the only one in question. It seems
> Crazy at this point, but I may not have had it right
,all along.
>
> Ed Diebel (FF 62)
>
>
>
> In a message dated 1/22/2012 4:13:46 P.M. Central Standard Time, gtalexander@att.net
writes:
>
> >
> > Ed:
> > The brown should go to ground. The yellow and the yellow/black should go
to the input (A/C) to the Key West. The output (DC) of the Key West would
tie into whatever you have that requires the 12V DC. The brown (ground)
going to the negative side of the output of the KW may have been someone's
way of getting the engine ground to whatever is being fed by the KW.
> >
> > For further confusion go to Google and put in "Rotax Wiring Diagram". It'll
make your hair hurt.
> >
> > Your results may vary.
> >
> >
>
--------
George Alexander
FS II R503 N709FS
http://www.oh2fly.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364558#364558
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley |
Thank you John,
I have passed the detail on to the magazine.
If anything comes of this exercise I will let the list know.and try to
arrange copies of the mag/article for anyone who wants one.
Pat
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Key West Regulator |
herbgh(at)nctc.com wrote:
> One thing I seem to recall....is that the EIS folks in Michigan do not recommend
the Key West regulator..Herb
>
>
>
I'm not going out to the hangar and look because it's pouring down rain, but I
think the Kuntzleman Hot Box comes with a Key West attached. And it works fine
with our EIS. However we do have a battery in the system.
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen.
Hebrews 11:1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364560#364560
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Key West Regulator |
Just called Sandy at Grand Rapids....Not a big deal...she says that
if one uses a Key West, one cannot get a tach signal from the
alternator leads...Thats all... I think I was having problems setting
the tach impulse multiplier on my unit when I called several years
ago.. ? And likely she asked if I had a Key West Regulator... Herb
At 08:19 AM 1/23/2012, you wrote:
>
>
>herbgh(at)nctc.com wrote:
> > One thing I seem to recall....is that the EIS folks in Michigan
> do not recommend the Key West regulator..Herb
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>I'm not going out to the hangar and look because it's pouring down
>rain, but I think the Kuntzleman Hot Box comes with a Key West
>attached. And it works fine with our EIS. However we do have a
>battery in the system.
>
>--------
>Richard Pike
>Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org
>Kingsport, TN 3TN0
>Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of
>things not seen.
>Hebrews 11:1
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364560#364560
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: 2.5" IVO prop spacer |
Not using Grade 8 bolts for propellers is not an old wive's tale. Several
LycoSaurus engined experimentals have lost a prop when they let go.
Grade 5, hardware store bolts are not the equivalent of AN bolts. Grade 5
bolts are carbon steel, AN (same as the obsolete grade 6 bolts, are alloy.
Grade 5 bolts are weaker when bent, AN, grade 6, are stronger.
Take a grade 8 bolt, put it in a vice and bend it with a hammer, then do
the same with the same size AN bolt.
Rick Girard
On Sun, Jan 22, 2012 at 11:32 PM, Ron @ KFHU <captainron1@cox.net> wrote:
>
> Yes I have run into this myth several times over the years, it reminds me
> of the over square myth that was a fairly widespread reality back in the
> 70's. It finally went away, not sure if it was me or that people finally
> thought about it.
> In any case and the best comparison I can make is the difference between
> 1100 aluminum and 2024 aluminum. Or another away is that by the time you
> would reach the brittle factor between grade 5 and grade 8 the grade 5 has
> already failed, I am too lazy to look for fatigue or brittle factor between
> the grades but as a SWAG I say we would not find much of a difference if
> any.
>
> But I would love to be corrected, anytime I learn something factually new
> I am happy.
>
> Ron Mason
> ===========================
> ---- Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ============
> I don't mean to butt into a private conversation, but when I decided to put
> a spacer between my Warp Drive Prop, and my HKS I asked about finding AN
> aircraft bolts for it and someone informed me that the 8.8 bolts were what
> was needed and the harder bolts were not better for the simple reason that
> they were too hard and therefore brittle. I may be wrong, but I believe it
> was Daryl of Warp Drive that told me so.
> For what it is worth!
> Larry
>
>
> On Sun, Jan 22, 2012 at 12:09 PM, Ron @ KFHU <captainron1@cox.net> wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi Rick
> > I looked into the "hardness issue some while ago". The bolts are not
> > "brittle" they are stronger in tensile sheer and tension. Its the same
> with
> > grade 8 bolts they are much stronger than 5 which in turn are equivalent
> to
> > AN bolts, and same with grade 10 bolts. The price difference is small so
> I
> > opt for the stronger stuff whenever I can. I agree that in most
> > applications the cheapest bolt we can find is more than adequate, but as
> a
> > matter of personal satisfaction, and cheap prop for my ego I spend a few
> > pannies more and buy the stronger ones. Hell if I was bigger, better,
> > richer, and better looking maybe I would not want to over compensate but
> it
> > is what it is, or maybe I just like the best quality whether I need it or
> > not. :-)
> >
> > Here is a table I found by a quick search, I am sure there are better
> > tables out there.
> >
> > http://www.engineersedge.com/hex_bolt_identification.htm
> >
> >
> > =================================
> > ---- Rick Neilsen <neilsenrm@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ============
> > Seems like I read that the real hard bolts aren't recommended for prop
> > bolts because they are a bit brittle. My prop hub (PowerFin) requires a
> > much lower torque rating than the softer SAE 5 bolts can handle anyway so
> > that is what I use.
> >
> > Also I use a standard nut on my prop bolts so that I can get accurate
> > torque settings. My prop flange isn't threaded. Then I put a nylock nut
> on
> > as a lock nut.
> >
> > Rick Neilsen
> > Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
> >
> > On Sun, Jan 22, 2012 at 12:14 AM, Ron @ KFHU <captainron1@cox.net>
> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Ace has a good selection of metric bolts, 8.8 and the stronger ones of
> > > 10.9 which is what I buy for the Kolb Suzuki motor.
> > >
> > >
> > > ---- Herb Gayheart <herbgh@nctc.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > ============
> > > When I needed some 8.8's , I found them at Advanced Auto , of all
> > > places....They stock the long ones for some reason and can usually
> > > have them next day...Herb
> > >
> > > At 11:14 AM 1/21/2012, you wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > >On Sat, Jan 21, 2012 at 7:57 AM, Richard Girard
> > > ><<mailto:aslsa.rng@gmail.com>aslsa.rng@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > >Your 447 has threaded and unthreaded holes on a 75mm bolt circle.
> > > >The threaded holes are 8mm - 1.25 mm pitch. You want to use 8.8 spec
> > > >bolts and it's easier to use lock nuts to secure them rather than
> > > >trying to find bolts with drilled heads, or drilling them yourself.
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > >For what its worth, I needed some 8.8 bolts for my IVO and couldn't
> > > >find them anywhere. I eventually found them at a John Deere tractor
> > > supply.
> > > >Larry
> > > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Ron @ KFHU
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Ron @ KFHU
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> *If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
> address before sending.*
>
> --
> Ron @ KFHU
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
Message 7
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| Subject: | pusher belt drive prop |
Is a prop for a pusher belt drive the same as a prop 4 a=C2-tractor W/a g
ear box ?=0A=C2-my budy needa a prop for a 503 belt=C2- drive 60in to p
ut on his quicksilver float plane=0A=0AMalcolm & Jeanne Brubaker =0AMichiga
n Sport Pilot Repair =0ALSRM-A, PPC, WS=0AGreat Sails - Sailmaker =0Afor Ul
tralight & Light Sport=0A(989)513-3022=0A =0A=0A___________________________
_____=0A From: George Alexander <gtalexander@att.net>=0ATo: kolb-list@matro
nics.com =0ASent: Monday, January 23, 2012 8:38 AM=0ASubject: Kolb-List: Re
der" <gtalexander@att.net>=0A=0AEd:=0AI=99m not an expert, but I beli
eve that it should be to the airframe.=C2- Every drawing that I have seen
shows a common ground (airframe?)=C2- throughout the installation.=0AA c
ouple of =9CHowever=9Ds though.=0AMany installations p
ut a separate grounding strap from the engine to the airframe (a braided st
rap) and then ground, at a convienant place,=C2- the devices fed by the s
ystem.=0A=0AIf the loads off the KW are not too demanding and depending on
how they are wired, the brown to the Neg (-) on the KW would be =9Cok
=9D, not ideal, but =9Cok=9D.=0A=0AAs Beauford would say.
... "Worth what you paid for it!"=C2- (Who by the way, uses a KW and an E
IS.)=0A=0A=0A=0ADAquaNut(at)aol.com wrote:=0A> George,=C2- =C2- =C2-
=C2- =EF=BD=C2- I was the one who wired my firefly originally and h
ave 170 hours on=C2- it.=C2- Do I need to=C2- run=C2- =C2- =0A>
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =EF=BD=C2- =C2- =C2-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- the brown wire from the engine to the airframe?
=C2- That is the only one in=C2- question. It seems =0A>=C2- =C2-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =EF=BD=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2-
=C2- Crazy at this point, but I may not have had it right ,all along.=0A
>=C2- =0A>=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =EF=BD=C2- =C2
- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- Ed=C2- Diebel=C2- =C2- =C2-
=C2- (FF 62)=0A>=C2- =0A>=C2- =0A>=C2- =0A>=C2- In a message da
ted 1/22/2012 4:13:46 P.M. Central Standard Time,=C2- gtalexander@att.net
writes:=0A>=C2- =0A> > =0A> > Ed:=0A> > The brown should go to ground.
=C2- The yellow and the=C2- =C2- yellow/black should go to the input
(A/C) to the Key West.=C2- The output=C2- =C2- (DC) of the Key West w
ould tie into whatever you have that requires the 12V=C2- =C2- DC.=C2
- The brown (ground) going to the negative side of the output of the=C2
- =C2- KW may have been someone's way of getting the engine ground to w
hatever is=C2- =C2- being fed by the KW.=0A> > =0A> > For further confu
sion go to Google and put in=C2- =C2- "Rotax Wiring Diagram".=C2- It'
ll make your hair hurt.=0A> > =0A> > Your results=C2- =C2- may vary.=0A
> > =0A> > =0A> =0A=0A=0A--------=0AGeorge Alexander=0AFS II R503=C2- N70
9FS=0Ahttp://www.oh2fly.net=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A
=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364558#364558=0A=0A=0A=0A
- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.=0A_
====
Message 8
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| Subject: | Replies from Ivo Prop |
Dear Lanny, Record only goes back to 1998.
If it is Rotax 503 or 582 with 2.58:1 gear ratio, Knurl surfaces are
not required. Just maintain 200 inch pounds on the 6 bolts.
Regards, Ron
Dear Lanny, Yes, use 200 inch pounds. We upgraded the torque value to
200 inch pounds. Regards, Ron
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: pusher belt drive prop |
prop for a 503 belt >>
Hi,Malcolm
I used belts from the local car spares dealers on my Challenger.
Might be worth changing them a bit sooner than the `approved` aero
suppliers belts.They looked just the same to me but they were cheap
enough.
Pat
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: pusher belt drive prop |
Is a prop for a pusher belt drive the same as a prop 4 a tractor W/a
gear box ?
my budy needa a prop for a 503 belt drive 60in to put on his
quicksilver float plane
Malcolm & Jeanne Brubaker Michigan Sport Pilot Repair LSRM-A, PPC, WS
Great Sails - Sailmaker for Ultralight & Light Sport (989)513-3022
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
stand behind both planes with the engine mounted,,, and see what
direction the props turns,, if both turn clockwise,,, or both turn
counter clockwise,,, as far as i know they could use the same prop....
if they turn opposite directions,,, i think you are out of luck.
Message 11
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| From: | "Ron @ KFHU" <captainron1@cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 2.5" IVO prop spacer |
Okay if I must, :-)
I Googled, something that anyone can do, I like the vise test but its really meaningless
unless it is done in a controlled comparative setting.
go to the following link and read it,
http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/fasteners/index.asp
Now AN bolts have nominal 125,000 PSI and grade 8 have 150,000; now no one has
to make AN bolts to the minimum rating they can be much higher, in turn grade
8 or 10.9 will be made to meet 150,000 PSI or more.
these are facts, it ain't as sexy as placing a bolt in a vice and torturing it,
even though I am pretty sure that 150K is still 150K and 125K is still 125K even
in a vice. If I get bored today and I am in the hanger I'll use your test
just to see... and if its really interesting I'll even upload it to Youtube. But
do me a favor first and read what is in the links I provided, going on faith
is good but sometimes it can be blinding to science or better yet the scientific
method.
I am happy with 10.9 and grade 8 and above for any conceivable application that
I have so far used, and have been so for many years, never a failure or a problem.
However AN bolts are fine and I use them too, and many times amazingly enough
they are less costly than grade 8, excluding shipping.
---- Richard Girard <aslsa.rng@gmail.com> wrote:
============
Not using Grade 8 bolts for propellers is not an old wive's tale. Several
LycoSaurus engined experimentals have lost a prop when they let go.
Grade 5, hardware store bolts are not the equivalent of AN bolts. Grade 5
bolts are carbon steel, AN (same as the obsolete grade 6 bolts, are alloy.
Grade 5 bolts are weaker when bent, AN, grade 6, are stronger.
Take a grade 8 bolt, put it in a vice and bend it with a hammer, then do
the same with the same size AN bolt.
Rick Girard
On Sun, Jan 22, 2012 at 11:32 PM, Ron @ KFHU <captainron1@cox.net> wrote:
>
> Yes I have run into this myth several times over the years, it reminds me
> of the over square myth that was a fairly widespread reality back in the
> 70's. It finally went away, not sure if it was me or that people finally
> thought about it.
> In any case and the best comparison I can make is the difference between
> 1100 aluminum and 2024 aluminum. Or another away is that by the time you
> would reach the brittle factor between grade 5 and grade 8 the grade 5 has
> already failed, I am too lazy to look for fatigue or brittle factor between
> the grades but as a SWAG I say we would not find much of a difference if
> any.
>
> But I would love to be corrected, anytime I learn something factually new
> I am happy.
>
> Ron Mason
> ===========================
> ---- Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ============
> I don't mean to butt into a private conversation, but when I decided to put
> a spacer between my Warp Drive Prop, and my HKS I asked about finding AN
> aircraft bolts for it and someone informed me that the 8.8 bolts were what
> was needed and the harder bolts were not better for the simple reason that
> they were too hard and therefore brittle. I may be wrong, but I believe it
> was Daryl of Warp Drive that told me so.
> For what it is worth!
> Larry
>
>
> On Sun, Jan 22, 2012 at 12:09 PM, Ron @ KFHU <captainron1@cox.net> wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi Rick
> > I looked into the "hardness issue some while ago". The bolts are not
> > "brittle" they are stronger in tensile sheer and tension. Its the same
> with
> > grade 8 bolts they are much stronger than 5 which in turn are equivalent
> to
> > AN bolts, and same with grade 10 bolts. The price difference is small so
> I
> > opt for the stronger stuff whenever I can. I agree that in most
> > applications the cheapest bolt we can find is more than adequate, but as
> a
> > matter of personal satisfaction, and cheap prop for my ego I spend a few
> > pannies more and buy the stronger ones. Hell if I was bigger, better,
> > richer, and better looking maybe I would not want to over compensate but
> it
> > is what it is, or maybe I just like the best quality whether I need it or
> > not. :-)
> >
> > Here is a table I found by a quick search, I am sure there are better
> > tables out there.
> >
> > http://www.engineersedge.com/hex_bolt_identification.htm
> >
> >
> > =================================
> > ---- Rick Neilsen <neilsenrm@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ============
> > Seems like I read that the real hard bolts aren't recommended for prop
> > bolts because they are a bit brittle. My prop hub (PowerFin) requires a
> > much lower torque rating than the softer SAE 5 bolts can handle anyway so
> > that is what I use.
> >
> > Also I use a standard nut on my prop bolts so that I can get accurate
> > torque settings. My prop flange isn't threaded. Then I put a nylock nut
> on
> > as a lock nut.
> >
> > Rick Neilsen
> > Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
> >
> > On Sun, Jan 22, 2012 at 12:14 AM, Ron @ KFHU <captainron1@cox.net>
> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Ace has a good selection of metric bolts, 8.8 and the stronger ones of
> > > 10.9 which is what I buy for the Kolb Suzuki motor.
> > >
> > >
> > > ---- Herb Gayheart <herbgh@nctc.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > ============
> > > When I needed some 8.8's , I found them at Advanced Auto , of all
> > > places....They stock the long ones for some reason and can usually
> > > have them next day...Herb
> > >
> > > At 11:14 AM 1/21/2012, you wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > >On Sat, Jan 21, 2012 at 7:57 AM, Richard Girard
> > > ><<mailto:aslsa.rng@gmail.com>aslsa.rng@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > >Your 447 has threaded and unthreaded holes on a 75mm bolt circle.
> > > >The threaded holes are 8mm - 1.25 mm pitch. You want to use 8.8 spec
> > > >bolts and it's easier to use lock nuts to secure them rather than
> > > >trying to find bolts with drilled heads, or drilling them yourself.
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > >For what its worth, I needed some 8.8 bolts for my IVO and couldn't
> > > >find them anywhere. I eventually found them at a John Deere tractor
> > > supply.
> > > >Larry
> > > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Ron @ KFHU
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Ron @ KFHU
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> *If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
> address before sending.*
>
> --
> Ron @ KFHU
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
--
Ron @ KFHU
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: pusher belt drive prop |
Short answer, Yes if both engines are Rotax 2 strokes. If the donor engine
is non Rotax check the rotation of the donor engine.
Rick Girard
On Mon, Jan 23, 2012 at 11:14 AM, Malcolm Brubaker <brubakermal@yahoo.com>w
rote:
> Is a prop for a pusher belt drive the same as a prop 4 a tractor W/a gear
> box ?
> my budy needa a prop for a 503 belt drive 60in to put on his quicksilve
r
> float plane
>
> Malcolm & Jeanne Brubaker Michigan Sport Pilot Repair LSRM-A, PPC, WS
> Great Sails - Sailmaker for Ultralight & Light Sport (989)513-3022
> *From:* George Alexander <gtalexander@att.net>
> *To:* kolb-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Monday, January 23, 2012 8:38 AM
> *Subject:* Kolb-List: Re: Key West Regulator
>
>
> Ed:
> I=99m not an expert, but I believe that it should be to the airfram
e. Every
> drawing that I have seen shows a common ground (airframe?) throughout th
e
> installation.
> A couple of =9CHowever=9Ds though.
> Many installations put a separate grounding strap from the engine to the
> airframe (a braided strap) and then ground, at a convienant place, the
> devices fed by the system.
>
> If the loads off the KW are not too demanding and depending on how they
> are wired, the brown to the Neg (-) on the KW would be =9Cok
=9D, not ideal, but
> =9Cok=9D.
>
> As Beauford would say.... "Worth what you paid for it!" (Who by the way,
> uses a KW and an EIS.)
>
>
> DAquaNut(at)aol.com wrote:
> > George, =EF=BD I was the one who wired my firefly originally
and have
> 170 hours on it. Do I need to run
> > =EF=BD the brown wire from the engine to the
> airframe? That is the only one in question. It seems
> > =EF=BD Crazy at this point, but I may not have
had it
> right ,all along.
> >
> > =EF=BD Ed Diebel (FF 62)
> >
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 1/22/2012 4:13:46 P.M. Central Standard Time,
> gtalexander@att.net writes:
> >
> > >
> > > Ed:
> > > The brown should go to ground. The yellow and the yellow/black
> should go to the input (A/C) to the Key West. The output (DC) of the
> Key West would tie into whatever you have that requires the 12V DC. T
he
> brown (ground) going to the negative side of the output of the KW may
> have been someone's way of getting the engine ground to whatever is
> being fed by the KW.
> > >
> > > For further confusion go to Google and put in "Rotax Wiring
> Diagram". It'll make your hair hurt.
> > >
> > > Your results may vary.
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
> --------
> George Alexander
> FS II R503 N709FS
> http://www.oh2fly.net
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364558#364558**
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List**
>
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: pusher belt drive prop |
if they turn opposite directions,,, i think you are out of luck.>>
Can someone explain what possible difference that makes. The `teeth`
seem to be exactly the same, not with any particular bias. I cannot
remember the belt having a direction arrow on it
Pat
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Key West Regulator |
At 09:39 AM 1/23/2012, Herb Gayheart wrote:
>Just called Sandy at Grand Rapids....Not a big deal...she says that
>if one uses a Key West, one cannot get a tach signal from the alternator
>leads...Thats all... I think I was having problems setting the tach
>impulse multiplier on my unit when I called several years ago.. ? And
>likely she asked if I had a Key West Regulator... Herb
I had problems with the tach (a basic lighting coil powered tach) as well
with the KW regulator on my Cuyuna. Seems if there is little or no load on
the KW, the voltage is also low so the tach reads low; it needs a certain
amount of load before the voltage stabilizes. I solved the problem by
putting a big power resistor with heat sink across the output; this drew
enough power for the voltage to stabilize.
If you had nav lights (I don't) on all the time that would probably be
sufficient.
-Dana
--
The only problem with trouble-shooting is that sometimes trouble shoots
back.
Message 15
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| Subject: | pusher belt drive prop |
Patrick L/Kolbers:
Let's see if I can help.
I think the gentleman was talking about props, not belts.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
if they turn opposite directions,,, i think you are out of luck.>>
Can someone explain what possible difference that makes. The `teeth`
seem to be exactly the same, not with any particular bias. I cannot
remember the belt having a direction arrow on it
Pat
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: FAA registration renewal |
Well, I got a reply. Not sure if it makes sense, or even if I'm satisfied with
it, but here it is. His reply is first, followed by the question I had asked.
***********************
Mr. Pike,
If a certificate expires the last day of June and it is re-registered in January,
the certificate will expire 3 years from January 31, 2012. If the certificate
was re-registered in June, the new certificate would expire 3 years from June
30th 2012. In other words, the certificate will always expire 3 years from
the last day of the month that the certificate was issued. Even if it was early,
on time or late. If you re-register early (or late) the date will change.
If you wait until that month, it will stay the same. Re-registering early
will help insure that you will receive your new certificate before the current
one expires. If you wait until the expiring month, there is no guarantee that
you will receive the certificate before the current one expires and there may
be a change (does he mean "chance?" -rp) that you will not be eligible to fly
the aircraft until it becomes a valid registration again.
jp
-----richard@bcchapel.org wrote: -----
To: 9-AMC-AFS750-Aircraft/AMC/FAA@FAA
From: richard@bcchapel.org
Date: 01/20/2012 10:47AM
Subject: N-Number Renewal - Problem
Subject: Problem
Name: Richard Pike
E-Mail Address: richard@bcchapel.org
Phone: 423-323-9441
Application: N-Number Renewal
Comments: On January 3 of 2012 I received notice that my aircraft registration
would be expiring on June 30, 2012. Not wanting to have it slip my mind,
I immediately renewed online. Receiving my new aircraft registration in the mail,
I saw that the next date of expiry is January 31, 2015. However on your aircraft
reregistration and renewal page, is says:
"Aircraft registration issued under re-registration expires three years after
the last day of the month in which it is issued."
OK, that explains things. However, I then see in the next sentence "Aircraft
registration issued due to renewal expires three years from the expiration date
of the previous certificate."
Apparently there is a question of semantics here, since in my mind I was simply
renewing my registration, however it is obvious from what happened that I
am being classified as a re-registration.
The reason this concerns me is because January 31 is not 3 years from June
30, 2012, & I am losing several months of registration off my 3 years.
When January of 2015 arrives, will I be allowed to renew my aircraft registration,
or will this also be classified as a re-registration and will I once again
lose several months off my supposed 3 years? Could you please explain this
so that it makes sense?
Thank you,
Richard Pike
****************
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen.
Hebrews 11:1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364617#364617
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: pusher belt drive prop |
Can someone explain what possible difference that makes. The `teeth` seem to
be exactly the same, not with any particular bias. I cannot remember the
belt having a direction arrow on it
Pat
I thought the question was can they use the same prop on a geared pusher and
a belted tractor,,,, if standing at the rear of the plane and they both
turn clockwise,,, the the same prop could be used,,,, if they turn
opposite directions the props need to have the opposite twist,\\
boyd young
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: pusher belt drive prop |
now i need to buy one-- maybe the challanger guys or flitestar phantom
group or maybe a ultrastar pilot- anybody mal=0A=0A=0AMalcolm & Jeanne Br
ubaker =0AMichigan Sport Pilot Repair =0ALSRM-A, PPC, WS=0AGreat Sails - Sa
ilmaker =0Afor Ultralight & Light Sport=0A(989)513-3022=0A =0A=0A__________
______________________=0A From: b young <byoungplumbing@gmail.com>=0ATo: Pa
t Ladd <pj.ladd@btinternet.com>; kolb-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Monday, J
anuary 23, 2012 6:53 PM=0ASubject: Re: Kolb-List: pusher belt drive prop
m>=0A=0A=0ACan someone explain what possible difference that makes. The `te
eth` seem to be exactly the same, not with any particular bias. I cannot re
member the belt having a direction arrow on it=0A=0APat=0A=0A=0AI thought t
he question was can they use the same prop on a geared pusher and a belted
tractor,,,,- - if standing at the rear of the plane and they both turn
clockwise,,,- the the same prop could be used,,,,- if they turn oppos
ite directions the props need to have the opposite twist,\\=0A=0Aboyd young
===============
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: FAA registration renewal |
In a message dated 1/23/2012 6:27:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
richard@bcchapel.org writes:
Well, I got a reply. Not sure if it makes sense, or even if I'm satisfied
with it, but here it is. His reply is first, followed by the question I had
asked
Well Mr Pike,
It sounds a bit like you are between a rock and a hard place. No way to
beat the system. Just be happy you got an answer.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Key West Regulator |
Another solution is to put a 50 volt 25,000 uf capacitor in the positive
line coming from the regulator. It does two things, it creates a load that
stabilizes the voltage and cleans up the "dirt" from creating DC voltage
from AC. I use one with the KW on my 582. Should you go this route, be very
careful should you need to disconnect it from the system. I had charged
mine up while doing system checkout and decided to move it to a different
location three months later. Good thing the screwdriver handle was
insulated it threw a big spark when I accidentally grounded the screwdriver
shaft.
Rick Girard
On Mon, Jan 23, 2012 at 4:27 PM, Dana Hague <d-m-hague@comcast.net> wrote:
> At 09:39 AM 1/23/2012, Herb Gayheart wrote:
>
> Just called Sandy at Grand Rapids....Not a big deal...she says that if
> one uses a Key West, one cannot get a tach signal from the alternator
> leads...Thats all... I think I was having problems setting the tach impulse
> multiplier on my unit when I called several years ago.. ? And likely she
> asked if I had a Key West Regulator... Herb
>
>
> I had problems with the tach (a basic lighting coil powered tach) as well
> with the KW regulator on my Cuyuna. Seems if there is little or no load on
> the KW, the voltage is also low so the tach reads low; it needs a certain
> amount of load before the voltage stabilizes. I solved the problem by
> putting a big power resistor with heat sink across the output; this drew
> enough power for the voltage to stabilize.
>
> If you had nav lights (I don't) on all the time that would probably be
> sufficient.
>
> -Dana
> --
> The only problem with trouble-shooting is that sometimes trouble shoots
> back.
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: pusher belt drive prop |
The first annual I did after getting my ticket was on a Hirth powered
Challenger with belt drive. It had a Power Fin prop but there were no dowel
pin holes visible in the windows in the hubs. When I asked the owner about
it he told me he bought it from a guy with a 503 powered MiniMax and just
turned it around. When I had to replace the prop bolts with new stainless
steel shcs that I drilled for safety wire we set the prop pitch with my WD
protractor and motored on.
Rick Girard
On Mon, Jan 23, 2012 at 4:32 PM, Pat Ladd <pj.ladd@btinternet.com> wrote:
> **
> if they turn opposite directions,,, i think you are out of luck.>>
>
> Can someone explain what possible difference that makes. The `teeth` seem
> to be exactly the same, not with any particular bias. I cannot remember the
> belt having a direction arrow on it
>
> Pat
>
> *
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Key West Regulator |
Works on the cheaper rotax regulators also... I think I used a
smaller cap however...12k micro farads? 25 volts...something in that
neighborhood..? Herb
At 08:42 PM 1/23/2012, you wrote:
>Another solution is to put a 50 volt 25,000 uf capacitor in the
>positive line coming from the regulator. It does two things, it
>creates a load that stabilizes the voltage and cleans up the "dirt"
>from creating DC voltage from AC. I use one with the KW on my 582.
>Should you go this route, be very careful should you need to
>disconnect it from the system. I had charged mine up while doing
>system checkout and decided to move it to a different location three
>months later. Good thing the screwdriver handle was insulated it
>threw a big spark when I accidentally grounded the screwdriver shaft.
>
>Rick Girard
>
>On Mon, Jan 23, 2012 at 4:27 PM, Dana Hague
><<mailto:d-m-hague@comcast.net>d-m-hague@comcast.net> wrote:
>At 09:39 AM 1/23/2012, Herb Gayheart wrote:
>
>>Just called Sandy at Grand Rapids....Not a big deal...she says that
>>if one uses a Key West, one cannot get a tach signal from the
>>alternator leads...Thats all... I think I was having problems
>>setting the tach impulse multiplier on my unit when I called
>>several years ago.. ? And likely she asked if I had a Key West
>>Regulator... Herb
>
>I had problems with the tach (a basic lighting coil powered tach) as
>well with the KW regulator on my Cuyuna. Seems if there is little
>or no load on the KW, the voltage is also low so the tach reads low;
>it needs a certain amount of load before the voltage stabilizes. I
>solved the problem by putting a big power resistor with heat sink
>across the output; this drew enough power for the voltage to stabilize.
>
>If you had nav lights (I don't) on all the time that would probably
>be sufficient.
>
>-Dana
>--
>The only problem with trouble-shooting is that sometimes trouble
>shoots back.
>
>
>get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>
>tp://forums.matronics.com
>
>_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>--
>Zulu Delta
>Mk IIIC
>Thanks, Homer GBYM
>
>It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
> - Groucho Marx
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Key West Regulator |
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