Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:58 AM - Re: Kolb-List Digest: tail wheel (Thom Riddle)
2. 05:37 AM - Recording flight time (Richard Girard)
3. 12:03 PM - BRS soft pack and gap seal conundrum (David Kulp)
4. 02:47 PM - Re: BRS soft pack and gap seal conundrum (John Hauck)
5. 06:04 PM - Re: Kolb-List Digest: tail wheel (Jack B. Hart)
6. 06:07 PM - Re: Re: Kolb-List Digest: tail wheel (Jack B. Hart)
7. 06:17 PM - Re: Re: Kolb-List Digest: tail wheel (John Hauck)
8. 07:26 PM - Re: BRS soft pack and gap seal conundrum (b young)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: tail wheel |
For what is worth, "time in service" records (for maintenance) should reflect
airborne time. This is why some time recording meters/instruments begin recording
based on airspeed and/or micro switches that activate when wheels are off
the ground. Of course for experimental and UL aircraft this only matters if you
care about the difference.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY (9G0)
Kolb Slingshot SS-021
Jabiru 2200A #1574
Tennessee Prop 64x32
Truth is what stands the test of experience.
- Albert Einstein
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=381507#381507
Message 2
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| Subject: | Recording flight time |
One of the first things I learned about "flying time" was that the
tachometer recorded time at a differential rate depending on engine RPM.
The slower the engine turned the slower time passed. The Hobbs, on the
other hand, recorded actual time.
The flying club I belonged to charged for tach time. The 172 flew just as
nicely at 2200 RPM as it did at 2500, although a tad slower, but the
difference in cost was substantial. On average it cut my cost to fly by $5
to $6 an hour over the 400 hours I flew there. The time that went in my log
book was off the Hobbs meter so I accumulated "flying time" at a standard
rate.
Rick Girard
do not archive
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
Message 3
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| Subject: | BRS soft pack and gap seal conundrum |
OK Kolbers,
Got one for you! Brother Don built an aluminum gap seal when he built
my FlagFly. I bought a BRS soft pack, which fits in the gap and takes
the shape of the wing from the leading edge back about 10". In order
for the rocket, which is behind the gap seal, to pull the 'chute from
the soft pack, which is beneath the gap seal, I cut some of the aluminum
that covered it and replaced it with Dacron, held down with Velcro. If
the circumstance arose that I needed to use it, the rocket would blast
off and drag the 'chute through the Dacron, which would give way due to
the Velcro.
Unfortunately, the hot sun has melted the glue on the Velcro and it's
pretty much a gooey mess any more, so I got a sheet of plexiglass to
make another gap seal, and bent it to fit, intending to attach it with
short bungies to the BRS frame. Although the rocket is behind the
plexiglass, the 'chute is beneath it. What I'm figuring on doing is
tracing the area of the plexiglass that needs to give if the 'chute is
pulled and cut it almost completely off, but leaving a few tabs of uncut
material, like two in front and one on each side at the very rear. If
the 'chute is pulled the nylon strap that attaches the ballistic
projectile from the rocket to the 'chute should break off the rear tabs
and when the "trapdoor" opens the front two tabs will either hinge or
break away, as well. Then I can drift slowly back to earth.
If anyone has another idea, or has done it a different way, I'd really
like to hear from you.
Dave Kulp
Bethlehem, PA
FireFly 11DMK
PS Another consideration is that the nylon strap may easily lift and
bend the gap seal from the rear and to simply use small gauge bungies to
hold it down. It would likely remain in place with nothing holding it
since the wind actually pushes the gap seal tighter into place, and all
the bungies would do is hold the back edge down so it doesn't vibrate or
flap in the wind. Another way might be to cut slots from side to side
at the front of the soft pack to make a hinge in case the whole gap seal
doesn't detach from the leading edge of the wing...
I'd like more minds to mull this over. Thanks.
Message 4
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| Subject: | BRS soft pack and gap seal conundrum |
<undoctor@ptd.net>
I'd like more minds to mull this over. Thanks.
David K/Kolbers:
BRS has some material called frangible hair cell plastic.
It is black, about 1/8" thick. I have been using it for my
parachute exit for the last 12 years. Had to replace the
original about two or three years ago.
The plastic is scored on the bottom side with a utility
knife where the rocket will strike and where the deployment
bag will exit the pack tray.
I used a piece of 1/8" 6061 plate to drop the rocket 5" so
it would be inside my gap seal. I built the last gap seal
out of aluminum sheet, cutting a hole in the top the same
size as the pack tray plus the rocket. The frangible
plastic is secured to the top of the top of the gap seal
with hardware store aluminum pop after a bead of silicone
seal is placed around the perimeter of the plastic.
Last I heard, the BRS soft pack repack time is extended from
2 to 10 years as long as the parachute is stored in a
weather tight compartment.
john h
mkIII
Sargents, Colorado
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: tail wheel |
From: Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020@gmail.com>
>
.....................
Perhaps there are those who are skilled enough to manage without them, but alas,
I am just a "brush" pilot. Plus I really don't give a shit how much they weigh.
>
Larry,
I am not as fortunate as those of you who have your own grass strip with a
hangar. Thus I am forced to use an airport. The first one was 39 miles
away. Luckily the present one is only two miles away. When we bought the
present property it included a long narrow strip that could be used as an
800 foot runway, but it is going to take some earth moving to get it flat
and smooth enough to use with the FireFly.
I mounted drum brakes activated by a single handle because I found that
operating at an airport with out brakes was pure hell. The only way I could
stop and avoid running into the plane ahead of me was to taxi off the
asphalt into the grass or shut the engine down or jump out and hold it.
When the queue moved forward, I would have to taxi in the grass, or climb in
with out it running me down, strap in and move forward.
If you want to fly, you have to do what you have to do.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: tail wheel |
At 08:09 PM 8/21/12 -0600, you wrote:
...........................>
>In the event of an engine failure, do you punch the clock
>off?
>
John,
Yes, but not until the wheels touch the ground.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: tail wheel |
>In the event of an engine failure, do you punch the clock
off?
>
John,
Yes, but not until the wheels touch the ground.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
Gee, what does that do to your fuel consumption
calculations? ;-)
john h
mkIII
Sargents, Colorado
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: BRS soft pack and gap seal conundrum |
Got one for you! Brother Don built an aluminum gap seal when he built
my FlagFly. I bought a BRS soft pack, which fits in the gap and takes
the shape of the wing from the leading edge back about 10". In order
for the rocket, which is behind the gap seal, to pull the 'chute from
the soft pack, which is beneath the gap seal, I cut some of the aluminum
that covered it and replaced it with Dacron, held down with Velcro. If
the circumstance arose that I needed to use it, the rocket would blast
off and drag the 'chute through the Dacron, which would give way due to
the Velcro.
>>>>>>>>>>
clean up the gooey mess and top it all off with polly fabric,,, the rocket will
rip through the fabric and drag the chute behind it. then the paint can be
continuous. no bungies, no water leaking through.
boyd young
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