Kolb-List Digest Archive

Thu 08/30/12


Total Messages Posted: 9



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 11:03 AM - a helpful tip for tools (Larry Cottrell)
     2. 01:39 PM - Re: a helpful tip for tools (b young)
     3. 03:27 PM - Re: a helpful tip for tools (Phil)
     4. 04:19 PM - Re: a helpful tip for tools (Charlie England)
     5. 07:21 PM - Re: a helpful tip for tools (Rick Neilsen)
     6. 09:09 PM - Aluminum gear with 5/8 axles  (Mark)
     7. 09:09 PM - Aluminum gear with 5/8 axles  (Mark)
     8. 10:30 PM - Re: Aluminum gear with 5/8 axles (Richard Girard)
     9. 10:45 PM - Re: a helpful tip for tools (Richard Girard)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 11:03:27 AM PST US
    Subject: a helpful tip for tools
    From: Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020@gmail.com>
    I imagine most of you, like me use a battery powered screw gun to do a lot of your repairs on your Kolbs. One of the problems of course is that the batteries soon will not take a charge. If you use one of the major brands then finding a battery is not a problem, just the cost of new ones is the only problem. I have a Makita and am on my second set of batteries. The last two that I bought cost $39.00 I was using it yesterday and the charge ran down to worthless, so I stuck it on the charger. I have two chargers, but the battery kept tripping the fault button. I had managed to charge it the last time by standing there and restarting it when it clicked off. A real pain and the nearest replacement was 130 miles away, so I resorted to a tip that I picked up off the internet. It is just using a wire feed to knock the shorted nicads back to life. The wire feed of course has amperage controlled by the wire speed. The higher the wire speed the higher the amperage. Voltage is adjusted by the other adjustment. The idea is to have three times the voltage,- 27 volts for a 9 volt battery, with no amperage. Set your wire speed to zero. I clamped a screw into my ground clamp, and held it on the minus side of the battery while tapping the wire sticking out of the gun to the positive side. You should tap or make contact 10 to 15 times. This will allow the battery to return to useful status in no time at all. After that treatment my battery was able to receive a charge and I could complete my work. The theory is that the nicads build up inside and short out. The increased voltage burns these contact points off and return the battery to + and - condition as they should be. I do recommend a face shield, I have never heard of one blowing up, but I would just as soon take every precaution. For what it is worth! Larry -- *If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email address before sending.*


    Message 2


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    Time: 01:39:01 PM PST US
    From: "b young" <byoungplumbing@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: a helpful tip for tools
    The theory is that the nicads build up inside and short out. The increased voltage burns these contact points off and return the battery to + and - condition as they should be. I do recommend a face shield, I have never heard of one blowing up, but I would just as soon take every precaution. For what it is worth! Larry >>>>>>>>>>>>> I have seen the fallout after a NiCad exploded... a 2 x 4 inch hole in the ceiling sheetrock where the rest of the battery pack landed. and bits and pieces of the exploded cell everywhere, bits of battery case imbedded in the wall,,,, don't think I would have enjoyed the fireworks in person. a friend left his battery connected to a 15 min charger and forgot it,,, an 1 1/2 hours to 2 hours is all it took for the battery pack to turn its self into an "auto reminder" another method that works is to take a very large capacitor, charge it up to 50 volts or there about, dc, and jump + to + and - to - it does the same thing but you don't need a wire feed welder. what I have been told,,,, there are fine whiskers that grow from plate to plate and short out the cell.... the high voltage/ current. burns out the wicker, like burning out a fuse,,,, but the down side,,, there more whiskers that are almost all the way to making the full bridge, these are not burnt out. so you will have to repeat it over and over at increasing frequency till you give out. or the cell dries up on the inside and wont take a charge anyway. boyd young do not archive


    Message 3


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    Time: 03:27:17 PM PST US
    From: Phil <phactor9@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: a helpful tip for tools
    I have three Dewalt 12v cordless packs. I took each apart and zapped each c ell individually with an old UPC 12v gel cell - pos to pos and neg to neg. I barely touched about 20 times, but held the connection for half-a-second on three or four of those "touches". I just recharged two of the packs (the third is still in the charger) and t hey seem to have new powerful life - the drill now spins up fast and sweet. I could have sworn I heard a POP on some of the first touches of some of th e cells... rather like something inside the cell was being "vaporized". I w ould like to imagine that was an indication the crystalline threads that ca use NiCds to "wear out" were being fried. Nice tip, guys. Thx. Phil H. --- On Thu, 8/30/12, b young <byoungplumbing@gmail.com> wrote: From: b young <byoungplumbing@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: a helpful tip for tools =0A=0A =0A =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0AThe theory is that the nicads build up inside and short out. The increas ed =0Avoltage burns these contact points off and return the battery to + an d - =0Acondition as they should be.-I do recommend a face shield, I have never =0Aheard of one blowing up, but I would just as soon take every preca ution. =0A-=0A =0AFor what it is worth!=0ALarry=0A=0A >>>>>>>>>>>>>=0A-=0AI have seen the fallout after a NiCad =0Aexploded... - a 2 x 4 inch hole in the ceiling sheetrock where the rest of =0Athe bat tery pack landed.- and bits and pieces of the exploded cell =0Aeverywhere ,- bits of battery case imbedded in the wall,,,,-- =0Adon't think I w ould have enjoyed the fireworks in person.-- a friend =0Aleft his batte ry connected to a 15 min charger and forgot it,,,- an-1 =0A1/2 hours -to-2 hours is all it took for the battery pack to turn its =0Aself int o an-"auto reminder"- -- =0A-=0Aanother method that works is to t ake a very large =0Acapacitor,-- charge it up to 50 volts or there abou t, -dc, and =0Ajump + to + and - to ---- it does the same thing but you don't =0Aneed a wire feed welder.=0Awhat I have been told,,,, there ar e fine whiskers =0Athat grow from plate to plate and short out the cell.... - the high voltage/ =0Acurrent.- burns out the wicker, like burning out a fuse,,,,- but the =0Adown side,,,- there more-whiskers that are- almost all-the =0Away to making the full bridge,- these are not burnt o ut.-- =0Aso-you will have to repeat -it over and over at increasing frequency =0Atill you give out.--- or the cell dries up on the insid e and wont =0Atake a charge anyway.=0A-=0Aboyd young=0A=0A


    Message 4


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    Time: 04:19:52 PM PST US
    From: Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: a helpful tip for tools
    If you're handy with a soldering iron & you can get the pack open, you can buy inexpensive nickel-metal-hydride (Ni-MH) cells & replace the nicads in the pack. Same current capacity will be a lot smaller, or you can go up a bit in capacity & still fit them in the pack. Just use the same number of cells that were in the original pack. On 08/30/2012 05:24 PM, Phil wrote: > I have three Dewalt 12v cordless packs. I took each apart and zapped > each cell individually with an old UPC 12v gel cell - pos to pos and > neg to neg. I barely touched about 20 times, but held the connection > for half-a-second on three or four of those "touches". > > I just recharged two of the packs (the third is still in the charger) > and they seem to have new powerful life - the drill now spins up fast > and sweet. > > I could have sworn I heard a POP on some of the first touches of some > of the cells... rather like something inside the cell was being > "vaporized". I would like to imagine that was an indication the > crystalline threads that cause NiCds to "wear out" were being fried. > > Nice tip, guys. Thx. > > Phil H. > > --- On *Thu, 8/30/12, b young /<byoungplumbing@gmail.com>/* wrote: > > > From: b young <byoungplumbing@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: a helpful tip for tools > To: kolb-list@matronics.com > Date: Thursday, August 30, 2012, 4:35 PM > > > The theory is that the nicads build up inside and short out. The > increased voltage burns these contact points off and return the > battery to + and - condition as they should be. I do recommend a > face shield, I have never heard of one blowing up, but I would > just as soon take every precaution. > > For what it is worth! > Larry > > >>>>>>>>>>>>> > I have seen the fallout after a NiCad exploded... a 2 x 4 inch > hole in the ceiling sheetrock where the rest of the battery pack > landed. and bits and pieces of the exploded cell everywhere, > bits of battery case imbedded in the wall,,,, don't think I > would have enjoyed the fireworks in person. a friend left his > battery connected to a 15 min charger and forgot it,,, an 1 1/2 > hours to 2 hours is all it took for the battery pack to turn its > self into an "auto reminder" > another method that works is to take a very large capacitor, > charge it up to 50 volts or there about, dc, and jump + to + and > - to - it does the same thing but you don't need a wire feed > welder. > what I have been told,,,, there are fine whiskers that grow from > plate to plate and short out the cell.... the high voltage/ > current. burns out the wicker, like burning out a fuse,,,, but > the down side,,, there more whiskers that are almost all the way > to making the full bridge, these are not burnt out. so you will > have to repeat it over and over at increasing frequency till you > give out. or the cell dries up on the inside and wont take a > charge anyway. > boyd young >


    Message 5


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    Time: 07:21:53 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: a helpful tip for tools
    From: Rick Neilsen <neilsenrm@gmail.com>
    Larry /all I used to have a Dwalt drill. Paid big bucks for the drill with two batteries. It was a good outfit but eventually the batteries died and were expensive to replace. Currently I buy Harbor Freight drills they have them on sale from time to time for $16. They aren't super quality so no big deal when they die. In fact I keep two drills in Florida and in Michigan. When I work on a project I take both drills. Normally I chuck a drill bit in one and a screw driver bit in the other. I was just in one of their stores to day and they had replacement batteries for $15 so for another $1 I get another drill and charger. I'm currently in Michigan and have three of their drills. The oldest drill is 4-5 years old and is about dead. Oh yeah I haven't flown my VW Powered Kolb since my flight to Durand. Been busy selling our Grand Ledge MI home. Closed today. Please do not archive. Rick Neilsen On Thu, Aug 30, 2012 at 2:01 PM, Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020@gmail.com>wrote: > I imagine most of you, like me use a battery powered screw gun to do a lot > of your repairs on your Kolbs. One of the problems of course is that the > batteries soon will not take a charge. If you use one of the major brands > then finding a battery is not a problem, just the cost of new ones is the > only problem. > > I have a Makita and am on my second set of batteries. The last two that I > bought cost $39.00 I was using it yesterday and the charge ran down to > worthless, so I stuck it on the charger. I have two chargers, but the > battery kept tripping the fault button. I had managed to charge it the last > time by standing there and restarting it when it clicked off. A real pain > and the nearest replacement was 130 miles away, so I resorted to a tip that > I picked up off the internet. It is just using a wire feed to knock the > shorted nicads back to life. The wire feed of course has amperage > controlled by the wire speed. The higher the wire speed the higher the > amperage. Voltage is adjusted by the other adjustment. The idea is to have > three times the voltage,- 27 volts for a 9 volt battery, with no amperage. > Set your wire speed to zero. I clamped a screw into my ground clamp, and > held it on the minus side of the battery while tapping the wire sticking > out of the gun to the positive side. You should tap or make contact 10 to > 15 times. This will allow the battery to return to useful status in no time > at all. After that treatment my battery was able to receive a charge and I > could complete my work. > > The theory is that the nicads build up inside and short out. The increased > voltage burns these contact points off and return the battery to + and - > condition as they should be. I do recommend a face shield, I have never > heard of one blowing up, but I would just as soon take every precaution. > > For what it is worth! > Larry > > > -- > *If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email > address before sending.* > > * > > * > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 09:09:33 PM PST US
    From: Mark <chevybowtieracing@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Aluminum gear with 5/8 axles
    I am new to the Kolb business we bought a mkIIIc a few mouths ago, I am a little disappointed with the landing gear we have the aluminum legs with 5/8 axles the tires are 600*6 6 ply. Noticed the pilot tire toed out a little need to keep eye on this right! First flight no problem landed find, second flight the axle bent more so I order a new. In the mean time reading in the list found that it is ok to straight them one time so I did look better than when we bought it time to test it out and keep in mind it is weaker now so it will bend easier. After a few fly by's time to land one notch of flaps air speed 50 1/4 of power I got a little fast about three feet off kill the power level off air speed about 45 touch down pow! Left tire flies off right rudder right brake left leg is off the ground that's good slow down and keep the three points down almost stop left starting to dig in and pull to the left stuck in the soft dirt on the side of the runway nose over just a little kill engines and fuel. That could have been really bad I'm not hurt insect the plane nothing but one broken axle oh the propeller is partly missing the tire hit it and my wife got it all on tape. Lesson will not be straightening an more axles. Sorry for going on and on. We have installed a new factory axle in hopes this will never happen again. In reading on this list sounds like axles bending is quite normal i don't like that idea some time you just don't have glass landing it just the facts none of the landings were pancakes. How much better is the 4130 leg and are the axles replaced with larger diameter are are they the same 5/8"? >


    Message 7


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    Time: 09:09:33 PM PST US
    From: Mark <chevybowtieracing@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Aluminum gear with 5/8 axles
    I am new to the Kolb business we bought a mkIIIc a few mouths ago, I am a little disappointed with the landing gear we have the aluminum legs with 5/8 axles the tires are 600*6 6 ply. Noticed the pilot tire toed out a little need to keep eye on this right! First flight no problem landed find, second flight the axle bent more so I order a new. In the mean time reading in the list found that it is ok to straight them one time so I did look better than when we bought it time to test it out and keep in mind it is weaker now so it will bend easier. After a few fly by's time to land one notch of flaps air speed 50 1/4 of power I got a little fast about three feet off kill the power level off air speed about 45 touch down pow! Left tire flies off right rudder right brake left leg is off the ground that's good slow down and keep the three points down almost stop left starting to dig in and pull to the left stuck in the soft dirt on the side of the runway nose over just a little kill engines and fuel. That could have been really bad I'm not hurt insect the plane nothing but one broken axle oh the propeller is partly missing the tire hit it and my wife got it all on tape. Lesson will not be straightening an more axles. Sorry for going on and on. We have installed a new factory axle in hopes this will never happen again. In reading on this list sounds like axles bending is quite normal i don't like that idea some time you just don't have glass landing it just the facts none of the landings were pancakes. How much better is the 4130 leg and are the axles replaced with larger diameter are are they the same 5/8"? >


    Message 8


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    Time: 10:30:40 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Aluminum gear with 5/8 axles
    From: Richard Girard <aslsa.rng@gmail.com>
    Mark, I bent and straightened the aluminum gear legs on my Mk III quite a few times, but I never bent an axle. Keep with it and soon you will grease it on every time. The steel gear legs use the same size axle. It's dictated by the size of bearings the wheel manufacturers use. Rick Girard do not archive On Thu, Aug 30, 2012 at 11:07 PM, Mark <chevybowtieracing@yahoo.com> wrote: > > I am new to the Kolb business we bought a mkIIIc a few mouths ago, I am a > little disappointed with the landing gear we have the aluminum legs with > 5/8 axles the tires are 600*6 6 ply. Noticed the pilot tire toed out a > little need to keep eye on this right! First flight no problem landed find, > second flight the axle bent more so I order a new. In the mean time reading > in the list found that it is ok to straight them one time so I did look > better than when we bought it time to test it out and keep in mind it is > weaker now so it will bend easier. After a few fly by's time to land one > notch of flaps air speed 50 1/4 of power I got a little fast about three > feet off kill the power level off air speed about 45 touch down pow! Left > tire flies off right rudder right brake left leg is off the ground that's > good slow down and keep the three points down almost stop left starting to > dig in and pull to the left stuck in the soft dirt on the side of the > runway nose over just a little ki! > ll engines and fuel. That could have been really bad I'm not hurt insect > the plane nothing but one broken axle oh the propeller is partly missing > the tire hit it and my wife got it all on tape. Lesson will not be > straightening an more axles. Sorry for going on and on. We have installed a > new factory axle in hopes this will never happen again. In reading on this > list sounds like axles bending is quite normal i don't like that idea some > time you just don't have glass landing it just the facts none of the > landings were pancakes. How much better is the 4130 leg and are the axles > replaced with larger diameter are are they the same 5/8"? > > > > > -- Zulu Delta Mk IIIC Thanks, Homer GBYM It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy. - Groucho Marx


    Message 9


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    Time: 10:45:34 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: a helpful tip for tools
    From: Richard Girard <aslsa.rng@gmail.com>
    Guys, Two things. One, Interstate Battery stores can do the replacement batteries for you if you don't feel confident about doing it yourself. Two, Christmas is coming, Makita's new 18 volt drills with LiPo batteries are absolutely amazing. I've had mine for a couple of years now and I couldn't be happier with it. Charges last a long time and recharging takes less than 15 minutes. I've done projects where I drilled a lot of pilot holes and drove a lot of screws. I was never left waiting on a recharge. Pricey, but far better than Ni-cad or NMh. Rick Girard do not archive On Thu, Aug 30, 2012 at 1:01 PM, Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020@gmail.com>wrote: > I imagine most of you, like me use a battery powered screw gun to do a lot > of your repairs on your Kolbs. One of the problems of course is that the > batteries soon will not take a charge. If you use one of the major brands > then finding a battery is not a problem, just the cost of new ones is the > only problem. > > I have a Makita and am on my second set of batteries. The last two that I > bought cost $39.00 I was using it yesterday and the charge ran down to > worthless, so I stuck it on the charger. I have two chargers, but the > battery kept tripping the fault button. I had managed to charge it the last > time by standing there and restarting it when it clicked off. A real pain > and the nearest replacement was 130 miles away, so I resorted to a tip that > I picked up off the internet. It is just using a wire feed to knock the > shorted nicads back to life. The wire feed of course has amperage > controlled by the wire speed. The higher the wire speed the higher the > amperage. Voltage is adjusted by the other adjustment. The idea is to have > three times the voltage,- 27 volts for a 9 volt battery, with no amperage. > Set your wire speed to zero. I clamped a screw into my ground clamp, and > held it on the minus side of the battery while tapping the wire sticking > out of the gun to the positive side. You should tap or make contact 10 to > 15 times. This will allow the battery to return to useful status in no time > at all. After that treatment my battery was able to receive a charge and I > could complete my work. > > The theory is that the nicads build up inside and short out. The increased > voltage burns these contact points off and return the battery to + and - > condition as they should be. I do recommend a face shield, I have never > heard of one blowing up, but I would just as soon take every precaution. > > For what it is worth! > Larry > > > -- > *If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email > address before sending.* > > * > > * > > -- Zulu Delta Mk IIIC Thanks, Homer GBYM It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy. - Groucho Marx




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