Kolb-List Digest Archive

Fri 12/07/12


Total Messages Posted: 3



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 07:57 AM - Re: Tail up grades... (Richard Pike)
     2. 03:59 PM - Re: Nose cone access (Brad Nation)
     3. 04:23 PM - Re: Nose cone access (Richard Girard)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 07:57:10 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Tail up grades...
    From: "Richard Pike" <richard@bcchapel.org>
    Here is what we did on Ed's Firestar II, just a length of 1/8" aluminum flat stock on each side. Drilled one new hole on each side of the steel ring, and used the existing bolt that secures the tailwheel strut. I will be doing the same on my MKIII this winter. -------- Richard Pike Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org Kingsport, TN 3TN0 Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen. Hebrews 11:1 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=390019#390019 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1020227_large_981.jpg


    Message 2


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    Time: 03:59:08 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Nose cone access
    From: Brad Nation <nationcap@comcast.net>
    I'm not all the familiar with the nose of Kolbs as I don't have one yet, but wouldn't it be better to put the instrument panel on a hinge? Other than th at I like the idea, Sent from my iPad Brad On Dec 6, 2012, at 19:45, "Andy and Sheila Slinkard" <andysheila@eltopia.com > wrote: > Kolbers, tired of standing on your head to access the back of your instrum ent panel, especially if you have a battery mounted in the cone? This is my solution: Make five fiberglass layups on the inside of the cone where the c utout will be. Draw the desired cutout on outside of cone and use a small D rammel tool to carefully cut the desired opening. Use clear packing tape as a release agent on the inside of the cutout. Tape the cutout back in the h ole on the outside. Make five more fiberglass layups on the inside. Remove the cutout and trim the five layers of glass for a flange where all metal f loating anchor nuts ( Aircraft Spruce part # MS21059L06) will be riveted to a ccept and secure the cutout to the cone with #6-32 counter sunk screws. See pictures for reference. > Have a good day, > Andy > N687AS > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 04:23:20 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Nose cone access
    From: Richard Girard <aslsa.rng@gmail.com>
    Brad, As you said, you don't have one yet. There's more to this than just getting at the instruments. There are pedal hinges to be oiled, pitot and static lines to inspect. If you have hydraulic brakes you'll be wanting to service the master cylinders and cables stretch on mechanical brakes. It is VERY handy to have access to the forward end of the nose cone without going in through the cockpit and a whole lot easier on your back. I used the same basic idea as Andy's on my Mk IIIC except I made the flange from aluminum and riveted it on. As I recall, John Hauck put his access hole on the bottom of the nose cone for the same reason. On Ken Holle's Mk IIIX I took out the rivets and used screws to attach the entire nose cone so the whole thing comes off. I could get at everything while sitting on a roll around shop stool. Again, very handy for those maintenance items that have to be attended to during every annual conditional inspection. Rick Girard On Fri, Dec 7, 2012 at 5:58 PM, Brad Nation <nationcap@comcast.net> wrote: > I'm not all the familiar with the nose of Kolbs as I don't have one yet, > but wouldn't it be better to put the instrument panel on a hinge? Other > than that I like the idea, > > Sent from my iPad > > Brad > > On Dec 6, 2012, at 19:45, "Andy and Sheila Slinkard" < > andysheila@eltopia.com> wrote: > > Kolbers, tired of standing on your head to access the back of your > instrument panel, especially if you have a battery mounted in the cone? > This is my solution: Make five fiberglass layups on the inside of the cone > where the cutout will be. Draw the desired cutout on outside of cone and > use a small Drammel tool to carefully cut the desired opening. Use clear > packing tape as a release agent on the inside of the cutout. Tape the > cutout back in the hole on the outside. Make five more fiberglass layups > on the inside. Remove the cutout and trim the five layers of glass for a > flange where all metal floating anchor nuts ( Aircraft Spruce part # > MS21059L06) will be riveted to accept and secure the cutout to the cone > with #6-32 counter sunk screws. See pictures for reference. > Have a good day, > Andy > N687AS > > > * > > * > > -- Zulu Delta Mk IIIC Thanks, Homer GBYM It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy. - Groucho Marx




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