Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:52 AM - Re: 912uls (racerjerry)
2. 06:33 AM - Re: Re: 912uls (frank goodnight)
3. 06:42 AM - Re: Re: 912uls (John Hauck)
4. 06:53 AM - alignment (b young)
5. 07:31 AM - Re: Re: 912uls (frank goodnight)
6. 02:43 PM - Re: 912uls (racerjerry)
7. 11:43 PM - Aircraft Financing (Brad Nation)
Message 1
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Are the plugs wet (oily) or dry (soot)?
--------
Jerry King
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399413#399413
Message 2
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Moor sooty than oily , can't make up my mind if they look a little oily or not
,
but
definitely not wet, or no oily carbon build up.Brushes off easily with a bronze
brush.
Thanks for your interest ,Jerry.
Frank
do not archive
________________________________
From: racerjerry <gki@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Sent: Fri, April 26, 2013 5:52:59 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 912uls
Are the plugs wet (oily) or dry (soot)?
--------
Jerry King
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399413#399413
Message 3
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Moor sooty than oily , can't make up my mind if they look a little oily or
not , but
definitely not wet, or no oily carbon build up.Brushes off easily with a
bronze brush.
Thanks for your interest ,Jerry.
Frank
Two things come to mind:
-Enricher is leaking past the "O" rings.
-Carbs out of sync.
Thinking out loud.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
Message 4
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how are you re aligning the wheels.... are you bending the axels / gear/
or adjusting the position through elongated holes that are moving under
load? are the setting going back to the original settings or ending up in
the opposite direction?
also how are you setting the alignment? the best way I have found is to
put the wheels on grease plates, take a straight edge, take your choice,
2x4, 1x4, angle iron, etc behind the wheels at axel height. take a
carpenter square and align with the straight edge while holding the other
edge against the outside of the tire, then measure to the front and rear
edges of the rim. on a 5 3/4 inch rim, 6 is close enough,, the difference
between the measurement in inches, multiplied by 10 equals the degrees in
toe in or toe out. example: if the back of the rim to the square is
0.5 inches and the measurement to the square from the front of the rim is
0.55 inches the difference is 0.05 inches multiplied by 10 equals 0.5
deg. because the front of the rim measurement is greater than the
measurement to the back.. it is toe in. if you dont use the grease
plates.. the rolling resistance from the tire to the ground will affect the
reading.
boyd
do not archive
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Is there a stronger gear that can be used or additional bracing to keep
things from coming out of alignment.
Any other ideas ?
thanks for any responses,
Lee
Message 5
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John, and others that answered my request for help.
Talked to Ronnie Smith-- as per your suggestion--Thanks for his # He was really
informative and helpful.The gist of what he had to say , was-- That if a 912 is
not
tuned correctly or is run improperly # 2 cyl. will soot up, as it runs richer
and cooler than the
others. He said that this is normal in a out of tune engine!!. Said he thought
if I would
balance the carbs, set takeoff Rpm, service the gear box. replace the carb
mounting boots,
set the idle.and get the engine up to 1,800 to 2,000 Rpm as soon as possible
after
start up my problems would go away.
All this may seem obvious to those of you that run 912s But it's all new to
me.
The Kolb list has been a great comfort to me . Big pool of knowledge out there.
Seems like there is always someone that can suggest a solution to a problem, or
can
get you pointed in the right direction.Or put you in contact with someone that
can help. Hope someday i can repay the help i have received over the years.
Frank
________________________________
From: John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Fri, April 26, 2013 8:42:13 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: 912uls
Moor sooty than oily , can't make up my mind if they look a little oily or not
,
but
definitely not wet, or no oily carbon build up.Brushes off easily with a bronze
brush.
Thanks for your interest ,Jerry.
Frank
Two things come to mind:
-Enricher is leaking past the "O" rings.
-Carbs out of sync.
Thinking out loud.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
Message 6
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Hi Frank,
I typed this up before I viewed the suggestion by Ronnie Smith hopefully his cure
will take care of your problem and you can be on your way. If you should
need to dig further, the below info may help.
Before I begin, I must tell you that I do not have Rotax 4-cycle engine experience. Did you view this video? http://www.rotax-owner.com/all-videos/free-videos/417-asb912062 I agree that, on the surface, it does not appear that your S/N is affected by the bulletin, BUT
Soot is an indication that the sparkplug may not be firing. You need to see if
you are getting voltage to he plugs. The next time this problem occurs, take
two spare plugs, ground them to the engine case/ head (externally); swap plug
wires and see if you see a spark at the gap. You could remove one sparkplug
from each cylinder to keep the engine from firing and make the test less dangerous.
MAKE SURE THAT THE ALL SPARK PLUGS ARE GROUNDED or you might damage the
electronic ignition. You might electrically tie the plug bodies to the head using
safety wire. In any event, dont crank the engine with plug wires hanging
loose.
Often, when an ignition coil is failing (cracked), temperature will make a difference
in whether the affected plugs fire or not. If no spark is present, then
maybe you can swap wires or coil with another cylinder to pin down the problem.
Keep in mind that the BEST troubleshooting method for electrical problems
is SUBSTITUTION. See if you can move the problem around to another cylinder.
Are the deposits bridging the sparkplugs gap? Is it obvious? If so, it may still
be oil fouling. The SB talks about a machining error in that the intake spring
seat could have been machined too deep, causing a small hole and exposing
the intake port in the cylinder head to oil present at the valve cover area.
The SB provides a simplistic test to check for leakage by just checking for
plug fouling. Another way of testing for leakage would be to make a cover plate
for the intake port and see if it could hold a vacuum (with intake valve closed).
Or just check visually inside the port for a hole it would be adjacent
to the spring seat pocket (bottom of spring).
Other areas where oil could enter are through a bad (cracked / broken / missing)
intake valve seal or past a broken piston ring. A borescope check of the cylinder
might reveal deep vertical lines indicative of a broken ring. Have you
performed a compression test? Absolute numbers wont mean much, but comparing
results with other cylinders may help identify the problem.
Good Luck,
--------
Jerry King
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399462#399462
Message 7
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| Subject: | Aircraft Financing |
I'm in the market for a used Kolb and am exploring all financing options as I unfortunately
don't have that kind of cash sitting around. What better place to
ask than my hopefully soon to be fellow Kolbers. So a few questions:
1. How did you finance your airplane?
2. If it was through an aircraft financing company, which one?
3. How was the experience?
4. Lessons learned (or suggestions)?
Thanks in advance,
Sent from my iPad
Brad
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