Today's Message Index:
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1. 03:06 AM - Re: Re: Transitioning to the Mk III (Pat Ladd)
2. 07:20 AM - Re: Transitioning to the Mk III (Larlaeb)
3. 10:56 AM - Marking Center Of Tube (Dnul)
4. 11:23 AM - Rudder Spring Length FireFly Question (Dnul)
5. 01:21 PM - Re: Rudder Spring Length FireFly Question (Dennis Rowe)
6. 03:48 PM - Re: Rudder Spring Length FireFly Question (Ducati SS)
7. 04:02 PM - Re: Marking Center Of Tube (Ducati SS)
8. 06:32 PM - Re: Latex Pain Forum (Rick Lewis)
9. 06:40 PM - Re: Re: Marking Center Of Tube (WhiskeyVictor36@aol.com)
10. 09:17 PM - Re: Re: Latex Pain Forum (Sky Biker)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Transitioning to the Mk III |
I found these videos very helpful during my transition, I probably watched
them 20 or 30 times.
Hi
You are making a mountain out of a molehill. I changed from a Challenger to
a Mk111 Xtra.in a couple of days.
The obvious change is tricycle to tail dragger. Tricycle is so much better
in every way it amazes me that anyone bothers with taildraggers. Steering is
accurate and precise without having to bother with differential brakes. Side
winds problems are much reduced with easily controllable weathercocking..
That said there is something romantic and `veteran` about a tail dragger
that I .like or I would not have bought the Xtra.
Hold the stick right back when taxying and point the stick into wind.
Taxy around your field until you can point the plane in the right direction.
Do a couple of runs along the runway until you can lift the tail (gently)
and balance on the mains.Find the trim position. When you can keep
straight and on two wheels just set up the longest run you can, select one
notch of flap, open the throttle SLOWLY or she will swing, until you are
flat out. and go for it.
It will be obvious when she wants to fly, don`t mess about watching the ASI,
just let her lift off. Climb at full throttle at about 50ish. Its not that
critical, just don`t get slow.Take the flap off at around 5/600ft
Get 1000ft on, throttle back, play with the trim and get used to the flying
position. Do some gradually steeper turns in both directions and just play
with it for half an hour. Check the indicated stall speed with one notch of
flap.which is what you will use for landing.
Landing.
Set up your approach giving yourself plenty of room. No steep turns in the
circuit. Circuit height is probably around 700ft agl.
Reduce power and trim for about 50. on the downwind The change in attitude
is not great but.the nose will tend to lift as the power comes off. I never
did a flapless landing, why would you?. You want increased lift at decreased
speed when landing. Thats what flaps are for. One notch flaps,watch for
attitude change, trim out for 50/55. Turn final . I alaways cut the throttle
when the field is made. Let the plane sink until the blur of the grass
changes and you can see individual blades of grass. Flare and try to keep
the plane in the air, just off the ground as long as possible.
She will eventually stall and you should be a few inches off the ground at
that point. You have a perfect three pointer.
KEEP THE STICK BACK and apply brakes if you must, but GENTLY.
Raise the flap and taxy in.
You will not need more than one notch of flap except in an emergency .She
REALLY comes down steeply if you do.
One more thing. If you sideslip and there is really not much point as the
flaps will drop you quite quickly enough watch for a slight lift of the
nose. The sideways motion of the air across the curved nose produces a bit
of lift. No problem, just be aware.
Good luck
Pat
.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Transitioning to the Mk III |
Well, better a mountain than a hole in the ground I always say. Probably some
of us just need more help than others. I would argue that a Challenger fits into
the lighter type of aircraft category which would give you an understanding
of the deceleration issues which plague some GA pilots making the transition.
As far as tricycles being better, I will agree that they are generally easier
but not better for all applications. Just my two cents.
Allan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404377#404377
Message 3
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| Subject: | Marking Center Of Tube |
Picture shows how to mark the center line of a tube using a C-Thru brand ruler.
--------
Dnul
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404395#404395
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/018_113.jpg
Message 4
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| Subject: | Rudder Spring Length FireFly Question |
The picture of a new factory-built FireFly shows that the longitudinal axis of
a rudder spring must bend whenever a rudder pedal is pushed. Would it be better
if the spring on a pedal that is pressed is allowed to relax?
--------
Dnul
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404397#404397
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/firefly_may13_005_164.jpg
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Spring Length FireFly Question |
Doug,
The rudder pedal springs on Kolbs do relax when that pedal is pushed. They are
in tension and shorten when the corresponding pedal is depressed.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
On Jul 10, 2013, at 2:23 PM, "Dnul" <doug.syler@att.net> wrote:
>
> The picture of a new factory-built FireFly shows that the longitudinal axis of
a rudder spring must bend whenever a rudder pedal is pushed. Would it be better
if the spring on a pedal that is pressed is allowed to relax?
>
> --------
> Dnul
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404397#404397
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/firefly_may13_005_164.jpg
>
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Spring Length FireFly Question |
I made a small T bracket for the forward spring mount to eliminate this problem.
Drilled and riveted to the 4130 cage tube so the bracket will not rotate. No
binding or flexing of springs. Simple to make with 2 pieces of tubing and a triangular
gusset.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404423#404423
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Marking Center Of Tube |
I spent a lot of time measuring and marking tubing until I came up with this method.
Take the tube that needs to be marked. say 1/2"
lightly secure to work table ( tape or wood blocks ) lay a piece of 1/2" tubeing
parallel and a few inches away from part to be marked. take a third piece of
tubing and either coat that piece or the tube to be marked with magic marker.
Drag the third piece down the two parallel pieces together, the tube being dragged
along the top will hit the exact apex of the two parallel tubes for as long
a line as you want to make.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404425#404425
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Latex Pain Forum |
Painting my Kolb with latex paint sounds interesting if it will hold up to time
and look reasonably good. Can you use latex paint over the silver Polly brush
with success? Also can you remove the paint with MEK down to the cloth for
repair?
--------
Rick Lewis
(VW Watercooled Engine)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404434#404434
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Marking Center Of Tube |
Ducati SS
That is a very good idea. Simple and easy to do. Thanks for sharing.
Bill Varnes
Audubon, NJ
85 Kolb FireStar
do not archive
In a message dated 7/10/2013 7:02:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
hiwingflyer6219@yahoo.com writes:
I spent a lot of time measuring and marking tubing until I came up with
this method
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Latex Pain Forum |
I recovered my Challenger 11 CWS in 05 and used Flex Bon latex house paint.
I sprayed it over the silver polly brush and had no problems. I researched
several latex paints before using the Flex Bon being it was developed in F
lorida and for it's sun resistance. The key is to clear coat it to keep the
darker colors from fading also. I ran out of the clear coat on a section o
f the tail feathers which faded after a couple years. Other than for that
the paint still looks great even after all these years and still has it's s
hine. I am in the process of recovering my Mark 111C and will use the same
paint system. Yes you can use the MEK to remove the paint. $30 a gal for th
e latex plus $80 for the clear coat is a whole lot cheaper than the other p
aints used and looks as good.
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Latex Pain Forum
> From: cktman@wildblue.net
> Date: Wed=2C 10 Jul 2013 18:31:47 -0700
> To: kolb-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Painting my Kolb with latex paint sounds interesting if it will hold up t
o time and look reasonably good. Can you use latex paint over the silver P
olly brush with success? Also can you remove the paint with MEK down to t
he cloth for repair?
>
> --------
> Rick Lewis
>
> (VW Watercooled Engine)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404434#404434
>
>
>
>
>
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