Kolb-List Digest Archive

Thu 07/11/13


Total Messages Posted: 9



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 07:15 AM - Fitting an un-drilled panel onto blind tabs (Mike Welch)
     2. 09:33 AM - Re: Marking Center Of Tube (Richard Pike)
     3. 11:04 AM - Re: Rudder Spring Length FireFly Question (Dnul)
     4. 11:10 AM - Re: Fitting an un-drilled panel onto blind tabs (Dnul)
     5. 11:34 AM - Re: Fitting an un-drilled panel onto blind tabs (Dnul)
     6. 11:36 AM - Drilling Center Of Tube (Dnul)
     7. 01:02 PM - Re: Re: Latex Pain Forum (Richard Girard)
     8. 02:07 PM - Re: Rudder Spring Length FireFly Question (Richard Girard)
     9. 02:12 PM - Re: Drilling Center Of Tube (Carolina Flyer)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 07:15:24 AM PST US
    From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Fitting an un-drilled panel onto blind tabs
    Kolber guys (and girls), In the spirit of offering helpful tips, as Doug (Dnul) just did, I offer this hopefully helpful tip to fit a panel onto hidden tabs. Here's the scenario; Suppose you have to make a custom panel that fits very tightly in a difficult-to-get-to place, like say, a floor panel. Once you have cut and trimmed, and filed, and sanded=85.and you've finally got your panel that precise shape that fit's like a glove, your mounting points (tabs) are now hidden, and you no longer have a decent vantage point to view where the mounting holes should be drilled. What to do, what to do??? Here's what I came up with; An un-drilled floor panel that I recently made for my GlaStar was placed in position. I could see the mounting tabs beneath the panel from the front of the plane, but no where near accurate enough to be to place a locating pen mark on the topside to drill the holes. So!! I took an old 3/16" bolt, chucked it into my drill, and turned on my bench grinder. I spun the bolt head against the grinder creating a pin-pointed top. It sort of looks like a rivet, but instead of the head being rounded, it came to sharp point. Then, I lifted up the floor panel, dropped the pointy-headed bolt in place, re-positioned the floor panel exactly where I wanted it to be located. Then, I took a small block of wood, roughly centered it above the first tab, on top of the panel and TAP! Next, removed the panel, looked for the tiny dent, and then centered punched it a little better, and drilled it out to 3/16". After placing the floor panel back into position in the floor, I dropped in a bolt=85.exactly locating the panel where I wanted it! But, before I had set it in place, I dropped that pointy-headed bolt into a tab on the opposite side of the panel. Then TAP! Voila'!! Second bolt hole dent. Removed panel, center punched second hole, drilled 3/16", and re-installed. Once you have two bolt holes drilled, and the 2 locating bolts inserted through the panel and their corresponding tabs (on opposite sides of your panel), that sucker is EXACTLY positioned where it needs to be, and then you just keep on working your way around the remaining tabs, dropping in that pointy-headed bolt per each next tab to tap a small locating dent on the panel's underside. I think my custom-made floor panel had about 8-9 bolts to hold it secure. Each one of those holes was as exact as they could be. It was as if I had access to underneath the tabs to drill them. I think this method offers several variations of uses to allow the builder to make very precisely located blind panels. Below is a duplicate of the bolt I ground down. It needn't be any fancier than a beat up old bolt, ground down to a sharp point!! BTW, the 1/8" height that it holds the panel up is a non-factor. Mike Welch MkIII CX


    Message 2


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    Time: 09:33:45 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Marking Center Of Tube
    From: "Richard Pike" <richard@bcchapel.org>
    Variation of Ducati SS's method: Lay two same diameter tubes side by side, take a steel ruler and lay it on both tubes, drag it along the top of both tubes. The steel will leave a light scuff mark. -------- Richard Pike Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org Kingsport, TN 3TN0 Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen. Hebrews 11:1 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404480#404480


    Message 3


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    Time: 11:04:07 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Rudder Spring Length FireFly Question
    From: "Dnul" <doug.syler@att.net>
    I should get a 3/8" dia aluminum tube 8 and 3/4 inch long to hook the springs to so they're stretched 1 and 3/4 inches to get to the pedals in neutral since that is what the plans call for. -------- Dnul Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404482#404482


    Message 4


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    Time: 11:10:58 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Fitting an un-drilled panel onto blind tabs
    From: "Dnul" <doug.syler@att.net>
    Wicks has sheet back markers and strap duplicators. -------- Dnul Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404484#404484


    Message 5


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    Time: 11:34:28 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Fitting an un-drilled panel onto blind tabs
    From: "Dnul" <doug.syler@att.net>
    Wicks has sheet back markers and strap duplicators. -------- Dnul Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404485#404485


    Message 6


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    Time: 11:36:31 AM PST US
    Subject: Drilling Center Of Tube
    From: "Dnul" <doug.syler@att.net>
    To drill the center of a tube use a "V" block. Simply lower the drill on the drill press down to the bottom of the "V" to position for center. -------- Dnul Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404486#404486


    Message 7


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    Time: 01:02:33 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Latex Pain Forum
    From: Richard Girard <aslsa.rng@gmail.com>
    If you already have reached the Poly Spray stage, you've already added all the weight to the fabric covering that you need, otherwise to save money why not do as Appendix A of the Poly Fiber manual suggests and go with one of the three PolyTone colors that have the silver in them and no Poly Spray is required. You save money and weight. If you're going to do latex paint, research what the successful experimenters have come up with. Latex has UV protection built in and will do the same thing that Poly Spray does. Using Poly Brush and Poly Spray and then overcoating with Latex is probably the worst of all worlds in terms of covering weight. As for doing repairs of Latex coated fabrics, good old commercial Goof Off will take the latex off to get down to bare cloth. Some find it hard to believe how much weight can be added with coatings. My Mk III is 35 to 50 lb. overweight because an auto painter slobbered on so much AeroThane until the fabric weave was completely filled. Light Kolbs fly better. The closer you can get to 500 lb. empty weight the happier you will be with your airplane. Rick Girard PS Is Latex Pain for masochists? Sorry, couldn't help myself On Wed, Jul 10, 2013 at 11:16 PM, Sky Biker <smlplanet@msn.com> wrote: > I recovered my Challenger 11 CWS in 05 and used Flex Bon latex house > paint. I sprayed it over the silver polly brush and had no problems. I > researched several latex paints before using the Flex Bon being it was > developed in Florida and for it's sun resistance. The key is to clear coat > it to keep the darker colors from fading also. I ran out of the clear coat > on a section of the tail feathers which faded after a couple years. Other > than for that the paint still looks great even after all these years and > still has it's shine. I am in the process of recovering my Mark 111C and > will use the same paint system. Yes you can use the MEK to remove the > paint. $30 a gal for the latex plus $80 for the clear coat is a whole lot > cheaper than the other paints used and looks as good. > > > Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Latex Pain Forum > > From: cktman@wildblue.net > > Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2013 18:31:47 -0700 > > To: kolb-list@matronics.com > > > > > > > Painting my Kolb with latex paint sounds interesting if it will hold up > to time and look reasonably good. Can you use latex paint over the silver > Polly brush with success? Also can you remove the paint with MEK down to > the cloth for repair? > > > > -------- > > Rick Lewis > > > > (VW Watercooled Engine) > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404434#404434 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > &===================== > &gt====== > > > > > > > > * > > * > > -- Zulu Delta Mk IIIC Thanks, Homer GBYM It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy. - Groucho Marx


    Message 8


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    Time: 02:07:11 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Rudder Spring Length FireFly Question
    From: Richard Girard <aslsa.rng@gmail.com>
    Doug, From the picture it looks like either A) the tube that fixes the end of the springs is too short, or B) the springs are too long. You need to have the springs in the relaxed length when that rudder pedal is fully depressed, not when the pedals are equal, i.e. rudder centered. Rick Girard On Wed, Jul 10, 2013 at 1:23 PM, Dnul <doug.syler@att.net> wrote: > > The picture of a new factory-built FireFly shows that the longitudinal > axis of a rudder spring must bend whenever a rudder pedal is pushed. Would > it be better if the spring on a pedal that is pressed is allowed to relax? > > -------- > Dnul > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404397#404397 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/firefly_may13_005_164.jpg > > -- Zulu Delta Mk IIIC Thanks, Homer GBYM It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy. - Groucho Marx


    Message 9


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    Time: 02:12:41 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Drilling Center Of Tube
    From: "Carolina Flyer" <joe.a.lawson@gmail.com>
    Here is what I use and it works perfect every time -------- Kolb Firestar II 503 C-Box / RK400 Soon to have a Rotax 670 DCDI with a C-Box and RK 400 Clutch Challenger II 503 Tall Drive Location : Buffalo South Carolina Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404497#404497 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_191.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_138.jpg




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