Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:52 AM - Re: First flight (George Bearden)
2. 08:07 AM - Re: Upgrading from 503 to 582 on Mark III (Richard Pike)
3. 08:44 AM - Re: Re: Upgrading from 503 to 582 on Mark III (Richard Girard)
4. 06:39 PM - Re: Fitting an un-drilled panel onto blind tabs (Rick Lewis)
5. 08:12 PM - Re: Re: Fitting an un-drilled panel onto blind tabs (Mike Welch)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: First flight |
> take your time use WD 40 for lube
I think you guys are more experienced at this.. but I will tentatively
suggest also trying chainsaw bar oil. It is viscous, stays in place a while
and removes chips pretty good. You can dip the drill bit in it once inna
while then go drill some more. I bought a gallon 30 years ago and it will
last me the rest of my life.
OFF TOPIC
I also have a good amount of Roundup. Again, about 30 years ago I bought a
gallon, split it with a friend and have used it carefully since. It too will
last me the rest of my life.
My wife passed a coupla years ago. She had so much STUFF. New stuff,
Christmas presents she opened and put back in the box for safe keeping,
'special' pretty things that she never used. $50,000 worth of diamonds she
would never wear. Her best china. I learned a lesson from that. I have made
some nephews and cousins and stuff happy cuz I looked through my gun
collection and figgered that realistically I'd never use THIS one or THAT
one again, so I gave them away. One nephew received a Hi Standard .22
pistol. He was so excited he never put it down again till they left to go
home. Oh, he was still holding it even then. Another got the .30-06 with the
new Redfield on it. A Belgium Browning FN. I been doing that with lots of my
stuff. I always have been an acquisitive guy, but I get a lot of joy outta
doing this, while I'm alive to see it!
I'm not feeling morbid but I am more in touch with my mortality (is that
possible?).
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Upgrading from 503 to 582 on Mark III |
Here are some hopefully useful thoughts on radiators - the Rotax radiator part
# 995-699 measures 10.5" X 11" x 1.25" thick which equals out to 115 square inches.
It costs $439.
My MKIII N402RP is using a motorcycle radiator purchased for $75 from the local
motorcycle scrapyard, it is off some sort of street cruiser, a big Honda, don't
remember exactly. The radiator measures 16" x 7.5" x 1.25" or 120 square inches.
The FSII with 582 is using a similarly sourced radiator, it measures 15"
x 8" x 1.25" once again 120 square inches. In both cases the radiators were mounted
below and behind the wing and engine, where prop draw and below the wing
airflow will help move a lot of air through them.
On both airplanes we had excellent results most of the year, but we had a little
trouble in the heat of summer on extended hard climbs, the temp would get close
to redline and we would have to slack off a bit, let it cool down, and then
go again. Given that the Rotax radiator is slightly smaller, it would not be
surprising if other 582 operators also had some heat problems during the heat
of summer.
So here is how we fixed things: added a second radiator. In the case of the FSII,
we just piggybacked a second smaller radiator off some forgotten bike behind
the original, problem solved. (You bleed the air out of the piggybacker by loosening
the big top bolt)
On the MKIII, I decided to get rid of the brass Rotax expansion tank that is normally
used to add water by just adding a dirt bike radiator instead, and attached
it to the fairing that goes in front of the engine and holds the oil tank.
It doesn't even face straight ahead, it is at an angle, because that lets the
pipe fittings line up better, and the fairing will get the air in just fine
regardless. Since all these radiators are aluminum, the added weight is minimal.
Temps now stay constant year around on both airplanes.
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen.
Hebrews 11:1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405235#405235
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030177_large_939.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030182_large_163.jpg
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Upgrading from 503 to 582 on Mark III |
Richard, If you ever do it again, get a radiator off an 80's Honda Magna.
Doesn't matter whether the 750 or 1100. I've put them on a gray head and a
blue head. Never had a cooling problem. When I flew the Mk IIIX with the
blue head home to her owner it was 116 degrees in my backyard when I taxied
out for take off. I climbed directly to 6500 (5000 agl) and temps never got
out of the green.
Rick Girard
do not archive
On Wed, Jul 24, 2013 at 10:06 AM, Richard Pike <richard@bcchapel.org> wrote:
>
> Here are some hopefully useful thoughts on radiators - the Rotax radiator
> part # 995-699 measures 10.5" X 11" x 1.25" thick which equals out to 115
> square inches. It costs $439.
>
> My MKIII N402RP is using a motorcycle radiator purchased for $75 from the
> local motorcycle scrapyard, it is off some sort of street cruiser, a big
> Honda, don't remember exactly. The radiator measures 16" x 7.5" x 1.25" or
> 120 square inches. The FSII with 582 is using a similarly sourced radiator,
> it measures 15" x 8" x 1.25" once again 120 square inches. In both cases
> the radiators were mounted below and behind the wing and engine, where prop
> draw and below the wing airflow will help move a lot of air through them.
>
> On both airplanes we had excellent results most of the year, but we had a
> little trouble in the heat of summer on extended hard climbs, the temp
> would get close to redline and we would have to slack off a bit, let it
> cool down, and then go again. Given that the Rotax radiator is slightly
> smaller, it would not be surprising if other 582 operators also had some
> heat problems during the heat of summer.
>
> So here is how we fixed things: added a second radiator. In the case of
> the FSII, we just piggybacked a second smaller radiator off some forgotten
> bike behind the original, problem solved. (You bleed the air out of the
> piggybacker by loosening the big top bolt)
>
> On the MKIII, I decided to get rid of the brass Rotax expansion tank that
> is normally used to add water by just adding a dirt bike radiator instead,
> and attached it to the fairing that goes in front of the engine and holds
> the oil tank. It doesn't even face straight ahead, it is at an angle,
> because that lets the pipe fittings line up better, and the fairing will
> get the air in just fine regardless. Since all these radiators are
> aluminum, the added weight is minimal.
>
> Temps now stay constant year around on both airplanes.
>
> --------
> Richard Pike
> Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org
> Kingsport, TN 3TN0
> Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not
> seen.
> Hebrews 11:1
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405235#405235
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030177_large_939.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030182_large_163.jpg
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Fitting an un-drilled panel onto blind tabs |
Thank you for that tip. This is the reason I stay active on this site. These
simple tips mean a lot to me and I'm sure other also. Wicks and Spruce have gotten
enough of my money on gadgets they have. I have an use for your suggestion
right now, so thank you.
--------
Rick Lewis
(VW Watercooled Engine)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405282#405282
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Fitting an un-drilled panel onto blind tabs |
You are very welcome, Rick. I am glad I could help.
By the way..I got to thinking a little later about that how that method could be
used on lots of things,
like if you needed to mount wheel pants, or an instrument panel, or anything is
that is pre-made, and yet you have
established holes you need to locate it on that get hidden. All you'd need
to do is do the first one, and the rest of them fall in line
fairly quickly.
I didn't know they already made commercial versions.
Best regards,
Mike Welch
Do Not Archive
>
> Thank you for that tip. This is the reason I stay active on this site. These
simple tips mean a lot to me and I'm sure other also. Wicks and Spruce have
gotten enough of my money on gadgets they have. I have an use for your suggestion
right now, so thank you.
>
> --------
> Rick Lewis
>
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