Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:33 AM - Re: First solo flight. (Pat Ladd)
2. 03:31 AM - Firestar II for sale (Kirkds)
3. 05:07 AM - Firestar Fuel Tanks (Bob Etherton)
4. 06:03 AM - Re: Firestar Fuel Tanks (Gary Aman)
5. 08:13 AM - Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs. (Rick Neilsen)
6. 10:05 AM - Electrical Problem (Rick Neilsen)
7. 10:49 AM - Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs. (Arizona Flyer)
8. 11:02 AM - Re: Firestar Fuel Tanks (Arizona Flyer)
9. 12:17 PM - Series Fuel Pumps (Bob Etherton)
10. 04:05 PM - Re: Series Fuel Pumps (Richard Girard)
11. 04:52 PM - Re: Series Fuel Pumps (Charlie England)
12. 04:55 PM - Re: First solo flight. (kinne russ)
13. 05:07 PM - Re: Electrical Problem (Gary Aman)
14. 05:10 PM - Re: Re: Firestar Fuel Tanks (Gary Aman)
15. 05:41 PM - Re: Electrical Problem (HGRAFF@aol.com)
16. 08:39 PM - Re: Electrical Problem (Rick Neilsen)
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Subject: | Re: First solo flight. |
Congratulations Clyde,
Glad to hear that someone is starting more are less at the point where I
had to pack up.
Last year, at 82 My back finally succumbed to an injury received
carrying a glider wing about 40 years ago. I can still fly but I can no
longer do the pulley hauley, carrying fuel etc entailed in man handling
, servicing a plane etc.
Good luck to you.Times a-wasting.
Pat.
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Subject: | Firestar II for sale |
I'm selling my Firestar II...503 DCDI, 3 blade IVO, Second Chanz chute
$8000.00 Also have Mark III classic kit for sale or package deal. Kirk
--------
Kirk Smith
Columbiaville, MI
Firestar II
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411170#411170
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Subject: | Firestar Fuel Tanks |
I just bought a Firestar and replaced the fuel tanks and pickups. It had the pickups
in the bottom of the tanks but I changed to the top pickups. But my question,
is there any method to hold the tanks down or is the tight fit enough? I
don't see any past method that was used to hold them down. Just wondering about
the occasional -G.
--------
Bob E
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411175#411175
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Subject: | Re: Firestar Fuel Tanks |
Bob,
They are held by a strap that weaves over them and under the fuselage tube.
G.Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Etherton <ethertonr@webtv.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 23, 2013 8:49 am
Subject: Kolb-List: Firestar Fuel Tanks
I just bought a Firestar and replaced the fuel tanks and pickups. It had th
e
pickups in the bottom of the tanks but I changed to the top pickups. But my
question, is there any method to hold the tanks down or is the tight fit en
ough?
I don't see any past method that was used to hold them down. Just wondering
about the occasional -G.
--------
Bob E
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411175#411175
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Subject: | Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs. |
I'm very interested in how things go with the lithium battery. The weight
savings is huge I have been considering them for a few years now. Our
planes fly better the lighter they are so this is a big deal. Cookies are
my downfall so pilot weight is most likely going to continue to be a
problem. I talked to Steve Bennett at Great Plains about them, we decided
that with my single compufire ignition system that I would wait a bit
longer to switch. If I had to disconnect the battery in flight my
alternator would not provided the proper power to keep the spark going.
I'm in Florida for the winter and have removed my redrive from the plane so
that I can send it back to Valley Engineering for a free upgrade. The
upgrade is lightening the redrive by 6-8 oz. My redrive is a pre production
version. Every ounce helps. Last time I weighed my redrive VW powered
MKIIIC it was 598lbs. Lighter redrive, lighter battery, four small bolts
that are too long, etc., maybe be a few less cookies, who knows how light
it could be.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
On Sun, Oct 20, 2013 at 1:35 PM, Arizona Flyer <heracesthesun@yahoo.com>wrote:
>
> The lead acid battery in my Firestar II leaked acid into the fuse and
> layed on the fabric for days. It did no damage which is a testament to how
> strong the fabric is. I cleaned it with vinegar & water. The battery was
> upright and acid was forced out the caps. I had the plane out in the
> Arizona 90*+ heat for a few days with a white towel over the battery but
> found the acid leak when the plane was at home under shade and I'm guessing
> the heat swelled the battery causing the leak? The former owner put in a
> cheapo from China Mart (Walmart) No way am I putting that battery back in
> the plane and risk another leak. In research I came upon Lithium Iron
> batteries. The weight savings is amazing. The old lead acid weighed 11 lbs.
> and the new Shorai Lithium-Iron Battery LFX14L2-BS12 weighs only 1.46 lbs.
> It was hard to spend the extra money but I did, $144.00 for battery, and I
> ordered the balance/storage charger also for $77.00 My Firestar is on the
> heavy side and I'm glad to take 9.54!
> lbs. off the weight. These Lithium Iron batteries are said to have more
> starting power than lead acid for the same amp hour rating. They are said
> to take more heat and last about 3 times longer, are sealed, and can be
> positioned any way you want with no danger of leaking. Was wondering if any
> other Kolb owners have looked into or purchased one of these newer Lithium
> Iron batteries? It can get confusing with amp hour ratings, but the specs
> for Rotax starter battery says minimum 16 Ah and higher is better. The old
> lead acid was 11 Ah and started the 503 just fine. The Lithium Iron I
> ordered is 14 Ah but puts out more power than lead acid so it should be
> better. When not using a lead acid it should be kept fully charged, but
> Lithium should be stored at 70% to 80% charge to extend it's life which is
> why I ordered the charger/balancer with 'storage' feature. I ordered mine
> from Rocky Mountain, an ATV/Motorcycle supply place. I found when you look
> for 'aircraft' Lithium Iron bat!
> teries the price goes up of course. Battery Mart carries them !
> for $152
>
> .00 but for $144.00 I got mine here...
> http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/44/54/227/730/5796/31299/Shorai-Lithium-Iron-Battery
>
> --------
> "Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
> just to arrive safely at death"
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410930#410930
>
>
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Subject: | Electrical Problem |
I have been fighting a new electrical issue on my VW powered Kolb MKIIIC
half the summer. My ammeter flutters from 10 amps plus to 10 amps minus at
cruise RPMs. The engine runs fine and even flies great but the ammeter is
try to warn me something is wrong. Talking to Steve Bennet at Great Plains
Aircraft (he sells the alternator) he says that this will happen if the
alternator regulator isn't properly grounded and that there is a diagnostic
guide at the Kohler Engine web site for their V twin engines that is
useful. It looks like the same alternator.
Anyway I have replaced the regulator, cleaned bolts and stand offs where
the regulator is bolted to the Diel accessory case, replaced the ammeter,
and added an additional ground wire from the regulator to the engine case.
I have checked the AC running voltage unregulated from the alternator
(29VAC), verified there is no grounding of the alternator power wires (I
will check next spring if there is a grounding when hot), the voltage
regulator is grounded (seem like is showed .002 ohms) between the regulator
and (the engine and also the ground on the battery). I disconnected the
alternator from the electrical system and the ammeter showed a steady 5 amp
discharge so it appears it is a alternator problem.
I'm at the limit of what I can do. Someone suggested I add a capacitor to
smooth out the voltage but that seems like a fix for the symptoms not the
problem. I'm afraid to fly out of the pattern with this going on. Does
anyone have any ideas on what else I can check or what the problem is????
Thanks
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs. |
Rick; I'll post updates of my experience with the new lithium battery here. I've
read reviews where people pick up the battery for the first time and is so light
they think it's empty, then are amazed at how much power they put out. I
fly RC model airplanes all with brushless motors and have a fleet of lithium 'LiPo'
batteries so I'm used to them, but this will be the 1st time I use one this
large for a full size airplane. I am happy to lose the weight of the lead
acid battery. Good luck with your redrive. When I was airplane shopping I strongly
considered the Valley Engineering Backyard Flyer 4-stroke ultralight but
could not get comfortable with IMO that ugly looking wing on it.
Boyd. Thanks for the info on Arizona battery, I had already ordered my new Shorai
when I read it.
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411237#411237
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Subject: | Re: Firestar Fuel Tanks |
zeprep251(at)aol.com wrote:
> Bob,
> They are held by a strap that weaves over them and under the fuselage tube.
> G.Aman
>
>
>
>
> --
Hi Gary, Jeff here, I have your former yellow Firestar II. After I cleaned my tanks
and reinstalled, one of the plastic strap holder latches broke. They had
become brittle over the years so I used staples and super glue to repair. Next
time I pull the tanks I'll need new straps & latches, wonder where I could find
them, hardware or sporting goods store? Hope all is well with you, and thanks
again for all the info you've given me about the plane. I only flew it once,
but am getting ready for it's next flights soon...
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411238#411238
Message 9
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Subject: | Series Fuel Pumps |
I have read both ways that series pumps won't work because of excessive pressure
and I have read where it works ok. How many members are running 503 Rotax with
the series set up? Will it run with the vacuum pump pulling through the electric
while the electric is off?
--------
Bob E
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411251#411251
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Subject: | Re: Series Fuel Pumps |
Sorry, no 503 experience, but two 582's and an HKS all have Facet low
pressure electric pumps pushing to Mikuni pumps on the 582's (D52's) and a
Bing on the HKS. All work fine, neither Bing 54 or 64 carbs have ever so
much as hick upped by being fed by serial pumps, and, yes, you can shut the
Facet pumps off and the pneumatic pumps chug right along.
Rick Girard
On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 2:16 PM, Bob Etherton <ethertonr@webtv.net> wrote:
>
> I have read both ways that series pumps won't work because of excessive
> pressure and I have read where it works ok. How many members are running
> 503 Rotax with the series set up? Will it run with the vacuum pump pulling
> through the electric while the electric is off?
>
> --------
> Bob E
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411251#411251
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Series Fuel Pumps |
Caution:
The Facet pumps sold by some (probably most) homebuilt suppliers will
work as Rick describes. However, Facet does make a model that looks
identical but will not pass fuel if it's not running. (Actually, there
are quite a few variations in feature sets out there.)
Check part numbers carefully, if you're buying from a generic interweb
seller.
http://www.facet-purolator.com/cube-fuel-pumps.php
Charlie
On 10/23/2013 6:05 PM, Richard Girard wrote:
> Sorry, no 503 experience, but two 582's and an HKS all have Facet low
> pressure electric pumps pushing to Mikuni pumps on the 582's (D52's)
> and a Bing on the HKS. All work fine, neither Bing 54 or 64 carbs have
> ever so much as hick upped by being fed by serial pumps, and, yes, you
> can shut the Facet pumps off and the pneumatic pumps chug right along.
>
> Rick Girard
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 2:16 PM, Bob Etherton <ethertonr@webtv.net
> <mailto:ethertonr@webtv.net>> wrote:
>
> <ethertonr@webtv.net <mailto:ethertonr@webtv.net>>
>
> I have read both ways that series pumps won't work because of
> excessive pressure and I have read where it works ok. How many
> members are running 503 Rotax with the series set up? Will it run
> with the vacuum pump pulling through the electric while the
> electric is off?
>
> --------
> Bob E
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411251#411251
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> --
> Zulu Delta
> Mk IIIC
> Thanks, Homer GBYM
>
> It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be
> unhappy.
> - Groucho Marx
>
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: First solo flight. |
Clyde
My congrats to you! -- you persisted, AND were smart enough to get
adequate instruction before you tried flying your Kolb. You probably
would-a crashed it. And now you've got a lot more knowledge of your
aircraft and your engine, and it sounds as tho everything will go well
from now on. You should have many happy flights in the future. Sure hope
so.
It may be a long winter! -- but best wishes for your spring flying .
Fair winds,
Russ K
On Oct 22, 2013, at 9:48 PM, Clyde MacQuarrie wrote:
> I purchased a Kolb Mark 111 Classic in 2008 which had the wings,
rudder and elevators built and covered. Later on in the summer of 2008 I
purchased a Rotex 582 complete with reduction gear box and prop from
Travis. It was the early part of the summer of 2011 before I started
driving 520 kilometers to the location of my Ultralight Flight
Instructor to start my training. All went well but in the spring of 2012
things started to go wrong. On our first flight we lost power at 1000
ft. but my able instructor was able to make it back to his landing strip
with no trouble. The problem was a ruptured fuel line which we replaced
that afternoon. Next morning the engine seized on take-off at 450 feet
and we were fortunate that a vacant field was within reach. The rear
piston was badly scuffed and had to be replaced. Next problem was a hole
burnt into the top of the other cylinder piston. We removed the
automatic oil injection system and premixed the fuel. As a result the
engine ran fine this year. My instructor has a grass strip on his
property which runs north and south. The predominate wind is out of the
west which of course causes lots of problems for a beginner. Plus all
takeoffs have to be made towards the south and all landings towards the
north. On Sept. 29th I soloed and proved that you can teach an old dog
new tricks, as it was two days after I turned 81. Since then I returned
and after having an hour of takeoff and landings we took the wings off
and fogged the engine and put the aircraft into my trailer. My flying
season is over for this year but the smile is still on my face. Clyde
MacQuarrie, Alder Point, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Electrical Problem |
Rick,
Do you have an aluminum support and cover bolted to the flywheel end of the
engine containing the alternator with the starter bolted to it ?
If so,check the starter attach bolts .One may be long enough to pass throug
h the housing and ground the windings of the stator intermittently.
G.Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Neilsen <neilsenrm@gmail.com>
Sent: Wed, Oct 23, 2013 4:49 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: Electrical Problem
I have been fighting a new electrical issue on my VW powered Kolb MKIIIC ha
lf the summer. My ammeter flutters from 10 amps plus to 10 amps minus at cr
uise RPMs. The engine runs fine and even flies great but the ammeter is try
to warn me something is wrong. Talking to Steve Bennet at Great Plains Air
craft (he sells the alternator) he says that this will happen if the altern
ator regulator isn't properly grounded and that there is a diagnostic guide
at the Kohler Engine web site for their V twin engines that is useful. It
looks like the same alternator.
Anyway I have replaced the regulator, cleaned bolts and stand offs where th
e regulator is bolted to the Diel accessory case, replaced the ammeter, and
added an additional ground wire from the regulator to the engine case. I h
ave checked the AC running voltage unregulated from the alternator (29VAC),
verified there is no grounding of the alternator power wires (I will check
next spring if there is a grounding when hot), the voltage regulator is gr
ounded (seem like is showed .002 ohms) between the regulator and (the engin
e and also the ground on the battery). I disconnected the alternator from t
he electrical system and the ammeter showed a steady 5 amp discharge so it
appears it is a alternator problem.
I'm at the limit of what I can do. Someone suggested I add a capacitor to s
mooth out the voltage but that seems like a fix for the symptoms not the pr
oblem. I'm afraid to fly out of the pattern with this going on. Does anyone
have any ideas on what else I can check or what the problem is????
Thanks
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Firestar Fuel Tanks |
Jeff,
Hope you enjoy it as much as I did.
G.Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: Arizona Flyer <heracesthesun@yahoo.com>
Sent: Wed, Oct 23, 2013 4:49 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Firestar Fuel Tanks
zeprep251(at)aol.com wrote:
> Bob,
> They are held by a strap that weaves over them and under the fuselage tu
be.
> G.Aman
>
>
>
>
> --
Hi Gary, Jeff here, I have your former yellow Firestar II. After I cleaned
my
tanks and reinstalled, one of the plastic strap holder latches broke. They
had
become brittle over the years so I used staples and super glue to repair. N
ext
time I pull the tanks I'll need new straps & latches, wonder where I could
find
them, hardware or sporting goods store? Hope all is well with you, and than
ks
again for all the info you've given me about the plane. I only flew it once
, but
am getting ready for it's next flights soon...
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through
life
just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411238#411238
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Electrical Problem |
A very interesting situation! My guess is, it's a problem with the voltage
sensing lead. I don't know the type of rectifier/regulator you have, but
most have a sense input that actually allows a connection all the way to the
battery, to get the best voltage regulation there at the battery. A cheaper
way would be to connect the sense wire to the regulator output, right near
the regulator itself. I have a suspicion that the sense wire might just be
open. Since you reported nice steady 29 volt AC input to the regulator,
changed the regulator itself, the only other source of problem behavior is
the wiring.
HerbG
In a message dated 10/23/2013 4:49:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
neilsenrm@gmail.com writes:
I have been fighting a new electrical issue on my VW powered Kolb MKIIIC
half the summer. My ammeter flutters from 10 amps plus to 10 amps minus at
cruise RPMs. The engine runs fine and even flies great but the ammeter is
try to warn me something is wrong. Talking to Steve Bennet at Great Plains
Aircraft (he sells the alternator) he says that this will happen if the
alternator regulator isn't properly grounded and that there is a diagnostic
guide at the Kohler Engine web site for their V twin engines that is useful. It
looks like the same alternator.
Anyway I have replaced the regulator, cleaned bolts and stand offs where
the regulator is bolted to the Diel accessory case, replaced the ammeter, and
added an additional ground wire from the regulator to the engine case. I
have checked the AC running voltage unregulated from the alternator (29VAC),
verified there is no grounding of the alternator power wires (I will check
next spring if there is a grounding when hot), the voltage regulator is
grounded (seem like is showed .002 ohms) between the regulator and (the
engine and also the ground on the battery). I disconnected the alternator from
the electrical system and the ammeter showed a steady 5 amp discharge so it
appears it is a alternator problem.
I'm at the limit of what I can do. Someone suggested I add a capacitor to
smooth out the voltage but that seems like a fix for the symptoms not the
problem. I'm afraid to fly out of the pattern with this going on. Does anyone
have any ideas on what else I can check or what the problem is????
Thanks
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Electrical Problem |
All good suggestions. The unregulated AC voltage is app .5 volts low of the
range GP specified for the alternator at 2500 RPM I assumed it might be a
measurement error but? I do have a oil filter mount drilled, tapped, then
bolted into the Diel accessory case in the area of the alternator. Again
cold not running the alternator wires don't show any grounding but hot and
running there could be a intermittent grounding. I will pull the bolts and
shorten them a bit.
The alternator is pretty simple. Nothing electronic is internal in the
alternator, just windings and magnets. Two wires go to the regulator one
additional lead on the regulator feeds DC power. Grounding is provided by
the mounting lugs.
One suggested that maybe the battery is a bit old and causing the problem.
The problem started about the time I replaced the battery so maybe that is
the cause. Batteries are inexpensive so worth replacing.
I see two solid suggestions to check out next spring. Thanks for the help.
Any other suggestions?
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 8:40 PM, <HGRAFF@aol.com> wrote:
> **
> A very interesting situation! My guess is, it's a problem with the voltage
> sensing lead. I don't know the type of rectifier/regulator you have, but
> most have a sense input that actually allows a connection all the way to
> the battery, to get the best voltage regulation there at the battery. A
> cheaper way would be to connect the sense wire to the regulator output,
> right near the regulator itself. I have a suspicion that the sense wire
> might just be open. Since you reported nice steady 29 volt AC input to the
> regulator, changed the regulator itself, the only other source of problem
> behavior is the wiring.
>
> HerbG
>
> In a message dated 10/23/2013 4:49:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> neilsenrm@gmail.com writes:
>
> I have been fighting a new electrical issue on my VW powered Kolb MKIIIC
> half the summer. My ammeter flutters from 10 amps plus to 10 amps minus at
> cruise RPMs. The engine runs fine and even flies great but the ammeter is
> try to warn me something is wrong. Talking to Steve Bennet at Great Plains
> Aircraft (he sells the alternator) he says that this will happen if the
> alternator regulator isn't properly grounded and that there is a diagnostic
> guide at the Kohler Engine web site for their V twin engines that is
> useful. It looks like the same alternator.
>
> Anyway I have replaced the regulator, cleaned bolts and stand offs where
> the regulator is bolted to the Diel accessory case, replaced the ammeter,
> and added an additional ground wire from the regulator to the engine case.
> I have checked the AC running voltage unregulated from the alternator
> (29VAC), verified there is no grounding of the alternator power wires (I
> will check next spring if there is a grounding when hot), the voltage
> regulator is grounded (seem like is showed .002 ohms) between the regulator
> and (the engine and also the ground on the battery). I disconnected the
> alternator from the electrical system and the ammeter showed a steady 5 amp
> discharge so it appears it is a alternator problem.
>
> I'm at the limit of what I can do. Someone suggested I add a capacitor to
> smooth out the voltage but that seems like a fix for the symptoms not the
> problem. I'm afraid to fly out of the pattern with this going on. Does
> anyone have any ideas on what else I can check or what the problem is????
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
>
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