Kolb-List Digest Archive

Wed 10/23/13


Total Messages Posted: 16



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 02:33 AM - Re: First solo flight. (Pat Ladd)
     2. 03:31 AM - Firestar II for sale (Kirkds)
     3. 05:07 AM - Firestar Fuel Tanks (Bob Etherton)
     4. 06:03 AM - Re: Firestar Fuel Tanks (Gary Aman)
     5. 08:13 AM - Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs. (Rick Neilsen)
     6. 10:05 AM - Electrical Problem (Rick Neilsen)
     7. 10:49 AM - Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs. (Arizona Flyer)
     8. 11:02 AM - Re: Firestar Fuel Tanks (Arizona Flyer)
     9. 12:17 PM - Series Fuel Pumps (Bob Etherton)
    10. 04:05 PM - Re: Series Fuel Pumps (Richard Girard)
    11. 04:52 PM - Re: Series Fuel Pumps (Charlie England)
    12. 04:55 PM - Re: First solo flight. (kinne russ)
    13. 05:07 PM - Re: Electrical Problem (Gary Aman)
    14. 05:10 PM - Re: Re: Firestar Fuel Tanks (Gary Aman)
    15. 05:41 PM - Re: Electrical Problem (HGRAFF@aol.com)
    16. 08:39 PM - Re: Electrical Problem (Rick Neilsen)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 02:33:17 AM PST US
    From: "Pat Ladd" <pj.ladd@btinternet.com>
    Subject: Re: First solo flight.
    Congratulations Clyde, Glad to hear that someone is starting more are less at the point where I had to pack up. Last year, at 82 My back finally succumbed to an injury received carrying a glider wing about 40 years ago. I can still fly but I can no longer do the pulley hauley, carrying fuel etc entailed in man handling , servicing a plane etc. Good luck to you.Times a-wasting. Pat.


    Message 2


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    Time: 03:31:04 AM PST US
    Subject: Firestar II for sale
    From: "Kirkds" <kirk.smith@frontier.com>
    I'm selling my Firestar II...503 DCDI, 3 blade IVO, Second Chanz chute $8000.00 Also have Mark III classic kit for sale or package deal. Kirk -------- Kirk Smith Columbiaville, MI Firestar II Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411170#411170


    Message 3


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    Time: 05:07:01 AM PST US
    Subject: Firestar Fuel Tanks
    From: "Bob Etherton" <ethertonr@webtv.net>
    I just bought a Firestar and replaced the fuel tanks and pickups. It had the pickups in the bottom of the tanks but I changed to the top pickups. But my question, is there any method to hold the tanks down or is the tight fit enough? I don't see any past method that was used to hold them down. Just wondering about the occasional -G. -------- Bob E Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411175#411175


    Message 4


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    Time: 06:03:11 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Firestar Fuel Tanks
    From: Gary Aman <zeprep251@aol.com>
    Bob, They are held by a strap that weaves over them and under the fuselage tube. G.Aman -----Original Message----- From: Bob Etherton <ethertonr@webtv.net> Sent: Wed, Oct 23, 2013 8:49 am Subject: Kolb-List: Firestar Fuel Tanks I just bought a Firestar and replaced the fuel tanks and pickups. It had th e pickups in the bottom of the tanks but I changed to the top pickups. But my question, is there any method to hold the tanks down or is the tight fit en ough? I don't see any past method that was used to hold them down. Just wondering about the occasional -G. -------- Bob E Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411175#411175


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:13:40 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs.
    From: Rick Neilsen <neilsenrm@gmail.com>
    I'm very interested in how things go with the lithium battery. The weight savings is huge I have been considering them for a few years now. Our planes fly better the lighter they are so this is a big deal. Cookies are my downfall so pilot weight is most likely going to continue to be a problem. I talked to Steve Bennett at Great Plains about them, we decided that with my single compufire ignition system that I would wait a bit longer to switch. If I had to disconnect the battery in flight my alternator would not provided the proper power to keep the spark going. I'm in Florida for the winter and have removed my redrive from the plane so that I can send it back to Valley Engineering for a free upgrade. The upgrade is lightening the redrive by 6-8 oz. My redrive is a pre production version. Every ounce helps. Last time I weighed my redrive VW powered MKIIIC it was 598lbs. Lighter redrive, lighter battery, four small bolts that are too long, etc., maybe be a few less cookies, who knows how light it could be. Rick Neilsen Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC On Sun, Oct 20, 2013 at 1:35 PM, Arizona Flyer <heracesthesun@yahoo.com>wrote: > > The lead acid battery in my Firestar II leaked acid into the fuse and > layed on the fabric for days. It did no damage which is a testament to how > strong the fabric is. I cleaned it with vinegar & water. The battery was > upright and acid was forced out the caps. I had the plane out in the > Arizona 90*+ heat for a few days with a white towel over the battery but > found the acid leak when the plane was at home under shade and I'm guessing > the heat swelled the battery causing the leak? The former owner put in a > cheapo from China Mart (Walmart) No way am I putting that battery back in > the plane and risk another leak. In research I came upon Lithium Iron > batteries. The weight savings is amazing. The old lead acid weighed 11 lbs. > and the new Shorai Lithium-Iron Battery LFX14L2-BS12 weighs only 1.46 lbs. > It was hard to spend the extra money but I did, $144.00 for battery, and I > ordered the balance/storage charger also for $77.00 My Firestar is on the > heavy side and I'm glad to take 9.54! > lbs. off the weight. These Lithium Iron batteries are said to have more > starting power than lead acid for the same amp hour rating. They are said > to take more heat and last about 3 times longer, are sealed, and can be > positioned any way you want with no danger of leaking. Was wondering if any > other Kolb owners have looked into or purchased one of these newer Lithium > Iron batteries? It can get confusing with amp hour ratings, but the specs > for Rotax starter battery says minimum 16 Ah and higher is better. The old > lead acid was 11 Ah and started the 503 just fine. The Lithium Iron I > ordered is 14 Ah but puts out more power than lead acid so it should be > better. When not using a lead acid it should be kept fully charged, but > Lithium should be stored at 70% to 80% charge to extend it's life which is > why I ordered the charger/balancer with 'storage' feature. I ordered mine > from Rocky Mountain, an ATV/Motorcycle supply place. I found when you look > for 'aircraft' Lithium Iron bat! > teries the price goes up of course. Battery Mart carries them ! > for $152 > > .00 but for $144.00 I got mine here... > http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/44/54/227/730/5796/31299/Shorai-Lithium-Iron-Battery > > -------- > "Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life > just to arrive safely at death" > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410930#410930 > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 10:05:32 AM PST US
    Subject: Electrical Problem
    From: Rick Neilsen <neilsenrm@gmail.com>
    I have been fighting a new electrical issue on my VW powered Kolb MKIIIC half the summer. My ammeter flutters from 10 amps plus to 10 amps minus at cruise RPMs. The engine runs fine and even flies great but the ammeter is try to warn me something is wrong. Talking to Steve Bennet at Great Plains Aircraft (he sells the alternator) he says that this will happen if the alternator regulator isn't properly grounded and that there is a diagnostic guide at the Kohler Engine web site for their V twin engines that is useful. It looks like the same alternator. Anyway I have replaced the regulator, cleaned bolts and stand offs where the regulator is bolted to the Diel accessory case, replaced the ammeter, and added an additional ground wire from the regulator to the engine case. I have checked the AC running voltage unregulated from the alternator (29VAC), verified there is no grounding of the alternator power wires (I will check next spring if there is a grounding when hot), the voltage regulator is grounded (seem like is showed .002 ohms) between the regulator and (the engine and also the ground on the battery). I disconnected the alternator from the electrical system and the ammeter showed a steady 5 amp discharge so it appears it is a alternator problem. I'm at the limit of what I can do. Someone suggested I add a capacitor to smooth out the voltage but that seems like a fix for the symptoms not the problem. I'm afraid to fly out of the pattern with this going on. Does anyone have any ideas on what else I can check or what the problem is???? Thanks Rick Neilsen Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC


    Message 7


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    Time: 10:49:41 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs.
    From: "Arizona Flyer" <heracesthesun@yahoo.com>
    Rick; I'll post updates of my experience with the new lithium battery here. I've read reviews where people pick up the battery for the first time and is so light they think it's empty, then are amazed at how much power they put out. I fly RC model airplanes all with brushless motors and have a fleet of lithium 'LiPo' batteries so I'm used to them, but this will be the 1st time I use one this large for a full size airplane. I am happy to lose the weight of the lead acid battery. Good luck with your redrive. When I was airplane shopping I strongly considered the Valley Engineering Backyard Flyer 4-stroke ultralight but could not get comfortable with IMO that ugly looking wing on it. Boyd. Thanks for the info on Arizona battery, I had already ordered my new Shorai when I read it. -------- &quot;Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life just to arrive safely at death&quot; Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411237#411237


    Message 8


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    Time: 11:02:39 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Firestar Fuel Tanks
    From: "Arizona Flyer" <heracesthesun@yahoo.com>
    zeprep251(at)aol.com wrote: > Bob, > They are held by a strap that weaves over them and under the fuselage tube. > G.Aman > > > > > -- Hi Gary, Jeff here, I have your former yellow Firestar II. After I cleaned my tanks and reinstalled, one of the plastic strap holder latches broke. They had become brittle over the years so I used staples and super glue to repair. Next time I pull the tanks I'll need new straps & latches, wonder where I could find them, hardware or sporting goods store? Hope all is well with you, and thanks again for all the info you've given me about the plane. I only flew it once, but am getting ready for it's next flights soon... -------- &quot;Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life just to arrive safely at death&quot; Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411238#411238


    Message 9


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    Time: 12:17:02 PM PST US
    Subject: Series Fuel Pumps
    From: "Bob Etherton" <ethertonr@webtv.net>
    I have read both ways that series pumps won't work because of excessive pressure and I have read where it works ok. How many members are running 503 Rotax with the series set up? Will it run with the vacuum pump pulling through the electric while the electric is off? -------- Bob E Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411251#411251


    Message 10


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    Time: 04:05:49 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Series Fuel Pumps
    From: Richard Girard <aslsa.rng@gmail.com>
    Sorry, no 503 experience, but two 582's and an HKS all have Facet low pressure electric pumps pushing to Mikuni pumps on the 582's (D52's) and a Bing on the HKS. All work fine, neither Bing 54 or 64 carbs have ever so much as hick upped by being fed by serial pumps, and, yes, you can shut the Facet pumps off and the pneumatic pumps chug right along. Rick Girard On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 2:16 PM, Bob Etherton <ethertonr@webtv.net> wrote: > > I have read both ways that series pumps won't work because of excessive > pressure and I have read where it works ok. How many members are running > 503 Rotax with the series set up? Will it run with the vacuum pump pulling > through the electric while the electric is off? > > -------- > Bob E > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411251#411251 > > -- Zulu Delta Mk IIIC Thanks, Homer GBYM It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy. - Groucho Marx


    Message 11


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    Time: 04:52:43 PM PST US
    From: Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Series Fuel Pumps
    Caution: The Facet pumps sold by some (probably most) homebuilt suppliers will work as Rick describes. However, Facet does make a model that looks identical but will not pass fuel if it's not running. (Actually, there are quite a few variations in feature sets out there.) Check part numbers carefully, if you're buying from a generic interweb seller. http://www.facet-purolator.com/cube-fuel-pumps.php Charlie On 10/23/2013 6:05 PM, Richard Girard wrote: > Sorry, no 503 experience, but two 582's and an HKS all have Facet low > pressure electric pumps pushing to Mikuni pumps on the 582's (D52's) > and a Bing on the HKS. All work fine, neither Bing 54 or 64 carbs have > ever so much as hick upped by being fed by serial pumps, and, yes, you > can shut the Facet pumps off and the pneumatic pumps chug right along. > > Rick Girard > > > On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 2:16 PM, Bob Etherton <ethertonr@webtv.net > <mailto:ethertonr@webtv.net>> wrote: > > <ethertonr@webtv.net <mailto:ethertonr@webtv.net>> > > I have read both ways that series pumps won't work because of > excessive pressure and I have read where it works ok. How many > members are running 503 Rotax with the series set up? Will it run > with the vacuum pump pulling through the electric while the > electric is off? > > -------- > Bob E > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411251#411251 > > > ========== > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List > ========== > http://forums.matronics.com > ========== > le, List Admin. > ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > -- > Zulu Delta > Mk IIIC > Thanks, Homer GBYM > > It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be > unhappy. > - Groucho Marx >


    Message 12


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    Time: 04:55:41 PM PST US
    From: kinne russ <russk50@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: First solo flight.
    Clyde My congrats to you! -- you persisted, AND were smart enough to get adequate instruction before you tried flying your Kolb. You probably would-a crashed it. And now you've got a lot more knowledge of your aircraft and your engine, and it sounds as tho everything will go well from now on. You should have many happy flights in the future. Sure hope so. It may be a long winter! -- but best wishes for your spring flying . Fair winds, Russ K On Oct 22, 2013, at 9:48 PM, Clyde MacQuarrie wrote: > I purchased a Kolb Mark 111 Classic in 2008 which had the wings, rudder and elevators built and covered. Later on in the summer of 2008 I purchased a Rotex 582 complete with reduction gear box and prop from Travis. It was the early part of the summer of 2011 before I started driving 520 kilometers to the location of my Ultralight Flight Instructor to start my training. All went well but in the spring of 2012 things started to go wrong. On our first flight we lost power at 1000 ft. but my able instructor was able to make it back to his landing strip with no trouble. The problem was a ruptured fuel line which we replaced that afternoon. Next morning the engine seized on take-off at 450 feet and we were fortunate that a vacant field was within reach. The rear piston was badly scuffed and had to be replaced. Next problem was a hole burnt into the top of the other cylinder piston. We removed the automatic oil injection system and premixed the fuel. As a result the engine ran fine this year. My instructor has a grass strip on his property which runs north and south. The predominate wind is out of the west which of course causes lots of problems for a beginner. Plus all takeoffs have to be made towards the south and all landings towards the north. On Sept. 29th I soloed and proved that you can teach an old dog new tricks, as it was two days after I turned 81. Since then I returned and after having an hour of takeoff and landings we took the wings off and fogged the engine and put the aircraft into my trailer. My flying season is over for this year but the smile is still on my face. Clyde MacQuarrie, Alder Point, Nova Scotia, Canada > > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 05:07:00 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Electrical Problem
    From: Gary Aman <zeprep251@aol.com>
    Rick, Do you have an aluminum support and cover bolted to the flywheel end of the engine containing the alternator with the starter bolted to it ? If so,check the starter attach bolts .One may be long enough to pass throug h the housing and ground the windings of the stator intermittently. G.Aman -----Original Message----- From: Rick Neilsen <neilsenrm@gmail.com> Sent: Wed, Oct 23, 2013 4:49 pm Subject: Kolb-List: Electrical Problem I have been fighting a new electrical issue on my VW powered Kolb MKIIIC ha lf the summer. My ammeter flutters from 10 amps plus to 10 amps minus at cr uise RPMs. The engine runs fine and even flies great but the ammeter is try to warn me something is wrong. Talking to Steve Bennet at Great Plains Air craft (he sells the alternator) he says that this will happen if the altern ator regulator isn't properly grounded and that there is a diagnostic guide at the Kohler Engine web site for their V twin engines that is useful. It looks like the same alternator. Anyway I have replaced the regulator, cleaned bolts and stand offs where th e regulator is bolted to the Diel accessory case, replaced the ammeter, and added an additional ground wire from the regulator to the engine case. I h ave checked the AC running voltage unregulated from the alternator (29VAC), verified there is no grounding of the alternator power wires (I will check next spring if there is a grounding when hot), the voltage regulator is gr ounded (seem like is showed .002 ohms) between the regulator and (the engin e and also the ground on the battery). I disconnected the alternator from t he electrical system and the ammeter showed a steady 5 amp discharge so it appears it is a alternator problem. I'm at the limit of what I can do. Someone suggested I add a capacitor to s mooth out the voltage but that seems like a fix for the symptoms not the pr oblem. I'm afraid to fly out of the pattern with this going on. Does anyone have any ideas on what else I can check or what the problem is???? Thanks Rick Neilsen Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC


    Message 14


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    Time: 05:10:51 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Firestar Fuel Tanks
    From: Gary Aman <zeprep251@aol.com>
    Jeff, Hope you enjoy it as much as I did. G.Aman -----Original Message----- From: Arizona Flyer <heracesthesun@yahoo.com> Sent: Wed, Oct 23, 2013 4:49 pm Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Firestar Fuel Tanks zeprep251(at)aol.com wrote: > Bob, > They are held by a strap that weaves over them and under the fuselage tu be. > G.Aman > > > > > -- Hi Gary, Jeff here, I have your former yellow Firestar II. After I cleaned my tanks and reinstalled, one of the plastic strap holder latches broke. They had become brittle over the years so I used staples and super glue to repair. N ext time I pull the tanks I'll need new straps & latches, wonder where I could find them, hardware or sporting goods store? Hope all is well with you, and than ks again for all the info you've given me about the plane. I only flew it once , but am getting ready for it's next flights soon... -------- &quot;Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life just to arrive safely at death&quot; Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411238#411238


    Message 15


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    Time: 05:41:02 PM PST US
    From: HGRAFF@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Electrical Problem
    A very interesting situation! My guess is, it's a problem with the voltage sensing lead. I don't know the type of rectifier/regulator you have, but most have a sense input that actually allows a connection all the way to the battery, to get the best voltage regulation there at the battery. A cheaper way would be to connect the sense wire to the regulator output, right near the regulator itself. I have a suspicion that the sense wire might just be open. Since you reported nice steady 29 volt AC input to the regulator, changed the regulator itself, the only other source of problem behavior is the wiring. HerbG In a message dated 10/23/2013 4:49:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, neilsenrm@gmail.com writes: I have been fighting a new electrical issue on my VW powered Kolb MKIIIC half the summer. My ammeter flutters from 10 amps plus to 10 amps minus at cruise RPMs. The engine runs fine and even flies great but the ammeter is try to warn me something is wrong. Talking to Steve Bennet at Great Plains Aircraft (he sells the alternator) he says that this will happen if the alternator regulator isn't properly grounded and that there is a diagnostic guide at the Kohler Engine web site for their V twin engines that is useful. It looks like the same alternator. Anyway I have replaced the regulator, cleaned bolts and stand offs where the regulator is bolted to the Diel accessory case, replaced the ammeter, and added an additional ground wire from the regulator to the engine case. I have checked the AC running voltage unregulated from the alternator (29VAC), verified there is no grounding of the alternator power wires (I will check next spring if there is a grounding when hot), the voltage regulator is grounded (seem like is showed .002 ohms) between the regulator and (the engine and also the ground on the battery). I disconnected the alternator from the electrical system and the ammeter showed a steady 5 amp discharge so it appears it is a alternator problem. I'm at the limit of what I can do. Someone suggested I add a capacitor to smooth out the voltage but that seems like a fix for the symptoms not the problem. I'm afraid to fly out of the pattern with this going on. Does anyone have any ideas on what else I can check or what the problem is???? Thanks Rick Neilsen Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC


    Message 16


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    Time: 08:39:19 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Electrical Problem
    From: Rick Neilsen <neilsenrm@gmail.com>
    All good suggestions. The unregulated AC voltage is app .5 volts low of the range GP specified for the alternator at 2500 RPM I assumed it might be a measurement error but? I do have a oil filter mount drilled, tapped, then bolted into the Diel accessory case in the area of the alternator. Again cold not running the alternator wires don't show any grounding but hot and running there could be a intermittent grounding. I will pull the bolts and shorten them a bit. The alternator is pretty simple. Nothing electronic is internal in the alternator, just windings and magnets. Two wires go to the regulator one additional lead on the regulator feeds DC power. Grounding is provided by the mounting lugs. One suggested that maybe the battery is a bit old and causing the problem. The problem started about the time I replaced the battery so maybe that is the cause. Batteries are inexpensive so worth replacing. I see two solid suggestions to check out next spring. Thanks for the help. Any other suggestions? Rick Neilsen Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 8:40 PM, <HGRAFF@aol.com> wrote: > ** > A very interesting situation! My guess is, it's a problem with the voltage > sensing lead. I don't know the type of rectifier/regulator you have, but > most have a sense input that actually allows a connection all the way to > the battery, to get the best voltage regulation there at the battery. A > cheaper way would be to connect the sense wire to the regulator output, > right near the regulator itself. I have a suspicion that the sense wire > might just be open. Since you reported nice steady 29 volt AC input to the > regulator, changed the regulator itself, the only other source of problem > behavior is the wiring. > > HerbG > > In a message dated 10/23/2013 4:49:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > neilsenrm@gmail.com writes: > > I have been fighting a new electrical issue on my VW powered Kolb MKIIIC > half the summer. My ammeter flutters from 10 amps plus to 10 amps minus at > cruise RPMs. The engine runs fine and even flies great but the ammeter is > try to warn me something is wrong. Talking to Steve Bennet at Great Plains > Aircraft (he sells the alternator) he says that this will happen if the > alternator regulator isn't properly grounded and that there is a diagnostic > guide at the Kohler Engine web site for their V twin engines that is > useful. It looks like the same alternator. > > Anyway I have replaced the regulator, cleaned bolts and stand offs where > the regulator is bolted to the Diel accessory case, replaced the ammeter, > and added an additional ground wire from the regulator to the engine case. > I have checked the AC running voltage unregulated from the alternator > (29VAC), verified there is no grounding of the alternator power wires (I > will check next spring if there is a grounding when hot), the voltage > regulator is grounded (seem like is showed .002 ohms) between the regulator > and (the engine and also the ground on the battery). I disconnected the > alternator from the electrical system and the ammeter showed a steady 5 amp > discharge so it appears it is a alternator problem. > > I'm at the limit of what I can do. Someone suggested I add a capacitor to > smooth out the voltage but that seems like a fix for the symptoms not the > problem. I'm afraid to fly out of the pattern with this going on. Does > anyone have any ideas on what else I can check or what the problem is???? > > Thanks > > Rick Neilsen > Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC > > * > > ="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-Lists.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com > p://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > * > > * > > * > >




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