Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:30 AM - Re: Xtra Steering Problems (Rick Neilsen)
2. 12:48 PM - Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs. (Arizona Flyer)
3. 01:19 PM - Re: Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs. (Will Ricketts)
4. 01:46 PM - Re: Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs. (John Hauck)
5. 02:37 PM - More info on tailwheel 4130 tube needed... (Nick Cassara)
6. 02:55 PM - Re: Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs. (Dennis Rowe)
7. 04:06 PM - Re: Xtra Steering Problems (Gary Aman)
8. 05:18 PM - Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs. (Larlaeb)
9. 05:32 PM - Re: More info on tailwheel 4130 tube needed... (John Hauck)
10. 08:09 PM - Re: More info on tailwheel 4130 tube needed... (Larlaeb)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Xtra Steering Problems |
Brad
I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. If you were having problems
getting the tail wheel to unlock then I have a better suggestion. The
problem is that the tail wheel doesn't turn enough to unlock. This can be
fixed by drilling the tail wheel bellcrank to allow the control chains to
be attached closer together to effectively increase the turning ratio
between the rudder and the tail wheel. The optional tail wheel has a much
longer bellcrank than the stock tail wheel.
The advantage of the compression springs is that they keep the tail wheel
from a unexpected unlock in cross winds. The above suggestion on modifying
the tail wheel bellcrank allows you to turn by unlocking the tail wheel
without having to slam the tail wheel sideways enough to overcome spring
tension for a tail wheel unlock. This also reduces the ground handling
sideloading on the tail feathers which has been a problem on older Kolbs.
I did this fix on my MKIIIC years ago and it has worked well.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 10:58 PM, Brad Nation <nationcap@comcast.net> wrote
:
>
> Thanks for all the suggestions and help. I think I figured out the issue
> with my tail wheel not unlocking as it should. Upon further investigatio
n
> I realized that the issue was that the spring chain assembly that connect
s
> the connection bar to the ruder wasn=92t allowing the wheel to turn enoug
h so
> that the spring pin could retract. The compression springs were from
> Aircraft Spruce and were too stiff. I replaced them with heavy duty door
> springs purchased at the local hardware store.(Thanks Dennis Kerby for th
e
> suggestion.) Unfortunately I was unable to do a taxi test due to wind. Bu
t
> I think it will do the trick.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> YellowBird 1
> Kolb MK III Xtra
>
> PS: I changed my userid to my Dad=92s call sign when he was flying B-57s
in
> Vietnam.
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs. |
Reporting on my new Lithium Iron battery... It's amazing, and is working very well
in my FS-II. When I picked up the shipping box on my back porch which held
the battery & charger it was so light I didn't think there could be much power
in this battery. After opening the box I was shocked at how small it was, more
shocked how light it was. I was thinking this could barely power a child's
little electric car around the driveway. I thought how could it start a Rotax
503? I now have 2 flights on it and my 503 is cold blooded so it sometimes takes
a bit of cranking to start and this battery shows no sign of wearing down.
This Shorai Lithium Iron is fantastic, very pleased with my decision to get this.
And it's only 1 1/2 lbs. It's very small and I just got a small cloth strap
with Velcro from Ace hardware and was a 2 minute job to install. I picked up
the old lead acid battery and it's so heavy and seems like ancient history now.
Saved a little more weight by replacing that old big stainless steel strap
with the feather weight cloth strap. If you want to save several pounds you've
got to try one of these, a lot easier to mount also.
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412889#412889
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs. |
I got one for my FSII as well, worth the few extra $
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 12, 2013, at 2:48 PM, "Arizona Flyer" <heracesthesun@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> Reporting on my new Lithium Iron battery... It's amazing, and is working very
well in my FS-II. When I picked up the shipping box on my back porch which held
the battery & charger it was so light I didn't think there could be much power
in this battery. After opening the box I was shocked at how small it was,
more shocked how light it was. I was thinking this could barely power a child's
little electric car around the driveway. I thought how could it start a Rotax
503? I now have 2 flights on it and my 503 is cold blooded so it sometimes
takes a bit of cranking to start and this battery shows no sign of wearing down.
This Shorai Lithium Iron is fantastic, very pleased with my decision to get
this. And it's only 1 1/2 lbs. It's very small and I just got a small cloth strap
with Velcro from Ace hardware and was a 2 minute job to install. I picked
up the old lead acid battery and it's so heavy and seems like ancient history
now. Saved a little more weight by replacing that old!
> big stainless steel strap with the feather weight cloth strap. If you want to
save several pounds you've got to try one of these, a lot easier to mount also.
>
> --------
> "Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
just to arrive safely at death"
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412889#412889
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs. |
my 503 is cold blooded so it sometimes takes a bit of cranking to start
and this battery shows no sign of wearing down.
Kolbers:
There is one correct procedure to crank a cold Rotax, 2 or 4 stroke. If one
doesn't follow the way the book says to crank it, it will be difficult to
start, especially when cold.
Bing carbs used on 2 and 4 stroke Rotax do not have a choke. They use an
enricher system. If the throttle is not in the closed position when the
enricher is pulled fully on, the enricher will not work properly.
There is an enricher well in the float bowl and also an enricher jet. With
throttle closed and enricher fully on, when the engine is cranked it
initially pulls a big slug of fuel out of the enricher well, then continues
to pull fuel through the enricher jet which is larger than the idle jet.
During the start procedure the engine gets more air and fuel which also
causes a faster idle. Once the engine starts, you can slowly increase
throttle and rpm to whatever the books calls for warm ups.
I have never had a need for primers on any of my aircraft, 2 and 4 stroke,
when I use the recommend start procedure.
Have started all my Rotax engines, well below freezing, with no problems,
pull and electric start.
Thought I would throw that tidbit out to you all. Your mileage may vary.
;-)
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
Message 5
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| Subject: | More info on tailwheel 4130 tube needed... |
Hello Kolb Flyers,
A little while back a couple folks talked about replacing the Aluminum tail
wheel tube with a piece of 4130 steel. I talked to my local shop and they
want to know what wall thickness is being used and they are unsure about the
Hardness available, but would see what they could get.
Any additional information would be much appreciated !
Thanks,
Nick
Palmer, Ak
0607AK
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs. |
I have had the same results.
Do not archive
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Nov 12, 2013, at 4:46 PM, "John Hauck" <jhauck@elmore.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> my 503 is cold blooded so it sometimes takes a bit of cranking to start
> and this battery shows no sign of wearing down.
>
>
>
> Kolbers:
>
> There is one correct procedure to crank a cold Rotax, 2 or 4 stroke. If one
> doesn't follow the way the book says to crank it, it will be difficult to
> start, especially when cold.
>
> Bing carbs used on 2 and 4 stroke Rotax do not have a choke. They use an
> enricher system. If the throttle is not in the closed position when the
> enricher is pulled fully on, the enricher will not work properly.
>
> There is an enricher well in the float bowl and also an enricher jet. With
> throttle closed and enricher fully on, when the engine is cranked it
> initially pulls a big slug of fuel out of the enricher well, then continues
> to pull fuel through the enricher jet which is larger than the idle jet.
> During the start procedure the engine gets more air and fuel which also
> causes a faster idle. Once the engine starts, you can slowly increase
> throttle and rpm to whatever the books calls for warm ups.
>
> I have never had a need for primers on any of my aircraft, 2 and 4 stroke,
> when I use the recommend start procedure.
>
> Have started all my Rotax engines, well below freezing, with no problems,
> pull and electric start.
>
> Thought I would throw that tidbit out to you all. Your mileage may vary.
> ;-)
>
> john h
> mkIII
> Titus, Alabama
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Xtra Steering Problems |
You might have some difficulty drilling that part because it has been harden
ed to reduce wear at the keyway.ate up some good drill bits
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 12, 2013, at 9:30 AM, Rick Neilsen <neilsenrm@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Brad
>
> I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. If you were having problems
getting the tail wheel to unlock then I have a better suggestion. The probl
em is that the tail wheel doesn't turn enough to unlock. This can be fixed b
y drilling the tail wheel bellcrank to allow the control chains to be attach
ed closer together to effectively increase the turning ratio between the rud
der and the tail wheel. The optional tail wheel has a much longer bellcrank t
han the stock tail wheel.
>
> The advantage of the compression springs is that they keep the tail wheel f
rom a unexpected unlock in cross winds. The above suggestion on modifying th
e tail wheel bellcrank allows you to turn by unlocking the tail wheel withou
t having to slam the tail wheel sideways enough to overcome spring tension f
or a tail wheel unlock. This also reduces the ground handling sideloading on
the tail feathers which has been a problem on older Kolbs.
>
> I did this fix on my MKIIIC years ago and it has worked well.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
>
>
>> On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 10:58 PM, Brad Nation <nationcap@comcast.net> wro
te:
>>
>> Thanks for all the suggestions and help. I think I figured out the issue
with my tail wheel not unlocking as it should. Upon further investigation I
realized that the issue was that the spring chain assembly that connects th
e connection bar to the ruder wasn=99t allowing the wheel to turn enou
gh so that the spring pin could retract. The compression springs were from A
ircraft Spruce and were too stiff. I replaced them with heavy duty door spr
ings purchased at the local hardware store.(Thanks Dennis Kerby for the sugg
estion.) Unfortunately I was unable to do a taxi test due to wind. But I thi
nk it will do the trick.
>>
>> Thanks again,
>>
>> YellowBird 1
>> Kolb MK III Xtra
>>
>> PS: I changed my userid to my Dad=99s call sign when he was flying B
-57s in Vietnam.
>>
>> ==========
>> ="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>> ooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>> et="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> et="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>> "_blank">www.mrrace.com
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> le, List Admin.
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs. |
I have used a Lithium battery in my MkIII with a 912UL for the last 5 months or
so. Works great and I have had no starting problems. I may have a slightly
bigger one that mentioned above. Mine weights almost 2 lbs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412896#412896
Message 9
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| Subject: | More info on tailwheel 4130 tube needed... |
A little while back a couple folks talked about replacing the Aluminum tail
wheel tube with a piece of 4130 steel. I talked to my local shop and they
want to know what wall thickness is being used and they are unsure about the
Hardness available, but would see what they could get.
Any additional information would be much appreciated !
Thanks,
Nick
Nick:
.120 wall thickness. Heat treat to 48RC. Heat treating should be done
after all welding, drilling, etc.
The length of the tail wheel strut can be reduced by about a half of
whatever the plans call for.
Don't know why Homer liked the tail wheel strut so long.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: More info on tailwheel 4130 tube needed... |
Recently I did the same thing. Same thickness and hardness. I waited until after
it was hardened to drill and it is a little more difficult. However with
a slow speed and cutting oil I didn't have any trouble with a new carbide bit.
In my case I'm glad I did it that way because the hardening process caused the
tubing to curve slightly and I was able to use the slight curve to my advantage
(up and down rather than side to side). Perhaps a better hardening outfit
can avoid the distortion but I was told it was hard to avoid on stuff this
thin. I like the way it rides better than with the solid aluminum, has some spring
to it.
Allan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412901#412901
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