Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:26 AM - Re: new michigan group (abumhoffer)
2. 08:36 AM - Re: Kolb MK lll (Jason Omelchuck)
3. 08:38 AM - problem firestar (dany88)
4. 10:38 AM - Re: problem firestar (tombaisley)
5. 10:45 AM - Firefly covering photos (Ducati SS)
6. 11:05 AM - Re: Kolb MK lll (George Alexander)
7. 11:22 AM - Re: problem firestar (Beauford)
8. 05:46 PM - Re: Firefly covering photos (Stuart Harner)
9. 06:08 PM - Video Clip of Miss P'fer Landing at Skelton Airstrip, Eureka, Alaska, 20004 (John Hauck)
10. 06:20 PM - Re: problem firestar (Jack B. Hart)
11. 07:52 PM - Re: Firefly covering photos (Ducati SS)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: new michigan group |
Malcolm, the only Fly Michigan Yahoo group I could find was inactive for the past
few years. Is that link correct? Al
--------
Al Bumhoffer, Elkton, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417566#417566
Message 2
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I folded the wings every time I fly. One of the checks I put into place is to
put all the hardware into a little box by itself (no more or no less than needed).
After set up, that box should be empty.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417570#417570
Message 3
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| Subject: | problem firestar |
It is normal that the left wing of this movement?
the right wing makes him slightly.
I can fly like that?
Today I made my second flight and fly the beautiful state kolb firestar,
just to close the wings I noticed this movement.
watch the video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVMA3QHOf8E&feature=youtu.be
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417571#417571
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/foto_cel5_024_218.jpg
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: problem firestar |
Do not fly that airplane.
You need to look up inside the wing to determine why that is loose.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417576#417576
Message 5
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| Subject: | Firefly covering photos |
Stuart, here are the close up photos you requested.
I used the Poly Fiber system, it truly is a very simple system and the instruction
book is quite good. The only part I had any trouble with was estimating the
initial application tension, it is somewhat subjective depending on the size
of the item being covered. 1 coat poly brush brushed, 1coat poly brush sprayed,
3 coats silver and multiple color coats. If I were to do it over I would not
paint a lightweight plane white. I was used to auto paints and was quite surprised
at how little coverage the pigments in the Poly Tone provide. The cage
and boom are powder coated and most other parts such as nose cone, flaperons,
tail ring and such are single stage Croma One auto urethane.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417577#417577
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124446_resized_212.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_125707_resized_180.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124949_resized_181.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124840_resized_642.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124800_resized_959.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124700_resized_158.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124627_resized_929.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124544_resized_108.jpg
Message 6
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Jason Omelchuck wrote:
> I folded the wings every time I fly. One of the checks I put into place is to
put all the hardware into a little box by itself (no more or no less than needed).
After set up, that box should be empty.
I also unfold/fold for every flight.... When folding to put it away, I put every
connector removed, back where it came from, along with safety pins/rings/washers,
etc.... For me, easier to keep up with them and helps ensure their proper
placement when assembling.
Your results may differ.
--------
George Alexander
FS II R503 N709FS
http://www.oh2fly.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417579#417579
Message 7
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| Subject: | problem firestar |
Dany:
NO.... Definitely NOT normal..... Possibly very dangerous.
I would NOT fly it until the wing covering is opened and the inside structure
is inspected.... BOTH wings.
There can be no movement in this structure. Very important.
Beauford
FF-076
Brandon FL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dany88
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 11:38 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: problem firestar
It is normal that the left wing of this movement?
the right wing makes him slightly.
I can fly like that?
Today I made my second flight and fly the beautiful state kolb firestar,
just to close the wings I noticed this movement.
watch the video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVMA3QHOf8E&feature=youtu.be
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417571#417571
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/foto_cel5_024_218.jpg
Message 8
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| Subject: | Firefly covering photos |
Thanks so much! They are saved to my ready reference file.
A tip of the hat to you on your craftsmanship!
I do however still have a couple of questions.
On the fuselage fabric, it would appear that you wrapped the upper longeron
with the pinked edge tape, but I cannot tell how far around the tube you
wrapped the fabric. I would think about half way around would provide
enough base for poly tac on that small of a surface.
I do have a little experience with Dacron fabric. My Dad and I recovered an
Aeronca Chief about 30 years ago and I helped a friend cover his Fisher
Classic about 20 years ago. I understand the problem of knowing how tight
to make the raw fabric, especially on these light weight structures, it can
be really easy to over shrink and damage something.
The Kolb manual suggested using a bunch of 5# weights suspended around the
perimeter to provide the tension. I have not tried that yet, but suspect it
may be too tight for the 1.7 oz fabric, which is all I can find these days.
I think a little less than snug should be about right. I have some scraps
of fabric (2.7 oz. I think) and some expired poly tac that I am going to
play with while calibrating my iron. This well get me used to the process
again, and give me test panels to use when setting up my spray gun. All it
is going to cost is some extra time, which will be well spent if it helps
keep me from doing something on the plane over again.
I found your comments about the pigments interesting and have a question
about that as well.
Was the problem with getting the white to cover the silver or the yellow to
cover the white?
I ask because I can tell you used un-tinted poly brush, but understand that
light colors don't cover dark very well, and poly spray is fairly dark.
I plan on using yellow, red and black. The yellow will be the "base" color
and the red and black with be fairly large areas of contrast. My plan is to
use two coats of un-tinted poly brush, one brushed, one sprayed, each coat
consisting of two cross coats.
Then to skip the poly spray and just add uv blocker to the poly tone. I
don't think I will do the entire structure in yellow as I first planned. I
am now thinking of masking off and painting each color separately over the
poly brush which should still be basically white from the fabric underneath.
I do this for two reasons. One, I am cheap, and two, any area with contrast
color will mean additional coats to that area, adding weight.
I am going to try my best to beat the 254# if I can.
Thanks for your photos and your input.
Stuart
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ducati SS
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 12:45 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Firefly covering photos
Stuart, here are the close up photos you requested.
I used the Poly Fiber system, it truly is a very simple system and the
instruction book is quite good. The only part I had any trouble with was
estimating the initial application tension, it is somewhat subjective
depending on the size of the item being covered. 1 coat poly brush brushed,
1coat poly brush sprayed, 3 coats silver and multiple color coats. If I were
to do it over I would not paint a lightweight plane white. I was used to
auto paints and was quite surprised at how little coverage the pigments in
the Poly Tone provide. The cage and boom are powder coated and most other
parts such as nose cone, flaperons, tail ring and such are single stage
Croma One auto urethane.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417577#417577
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124446_resized_212.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_125707_resized_180.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124949_resized_181.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124840_resized_642.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124800_resized_959.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124700_resized_158.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124627_resized_929.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124544_resized_108.jpg
Message 9
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| Subject: | Video Clip of Miss P'fer Landing at Skelton Airstrip, Eureka, |
Alaska, 20004
A short video clip of my mkIII landing at Skelton Airstrip, Eureka, Alaska.
Did not know the clip existed until I returned from the trip north. Paul
Petty (RIP), former Kolb List Member, was corresponding with a pilot in
Alaska. Somehow they got around to this video clip. Paul gave me a shout
and sent me a copy. I had forgotten about it until tonight while surfing
the internet, I happened upon it on Robert Laird's blog.
In 1994, during my first flight to Alaska, Miss P'fer and I spent the night
on the airstrip. Good food in Eureka Lodge across the highway. Very
convenient flyin and camp under the wing.
http://www.texas-flyer.com/images/hauck-video.html
Did a Google search to insure I was spelling Skelton correctly and the photo
of my camp at Skelton in 1994 popped up:
http://www.kolbaircraft.com/images/jh94c1.jpg
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: problem firestar |
At 08:38 AM 1/25/2014 -0800, you wrote:
>
>It is normal that the left wing of this movement?
>the right wing makes him slightly.
>I can fly like that?
>Today I made my second flight and fly the beautiful state kolb firestar,
>just to close the wings I noticed this movement.
>watch the video
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVMA3QHOf8E&feature=youtu.be
>
The clevis swivel and pivot bolt looked good. Could not see if the wing
link to the knuckle was moving in and out of the wing. Fold the wing and
rest the leading edge (front corner) on the floor. Remove the vertical bolt
that passes through the swivel clevis and the knuckle. Move the top of the
wing at the swivel away from the knuckle. With your hand grasp the joint
protruding from the wing and give it a good shake. From this you should be
able to determine if the movement is from inside the wing.
It may be that the compression strut is loose inside the alignment tube that
is welded to the inner most steel rib. A small hole cut into the bottom of
the wing will expose this area.
As a safety issue, turn the swivel over so the bolt head through the knuckle
is up and the nut is down.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Firefly covering photos |
I wrapped the fabric around as far as I could work with it, probably more than
needed but in most places it was more than half way.
I used a lot of white to cover the silver, yellow over white was no problem. Spent
lots of money on white paint and likely added considerable weight. If you
look very carefully at the overall tail photo you can see that I added UV blocker
to the vertical fin paint and it yellowed a bit.
I discovered a few things about irons. I checked several and found the following.
Some iron thermostats have a wide temp. range between low on and high off.
I finally found one with a narrow stable range but it cost a bit more than the
really cheap versions. The shoe on all the irons at a given set temp. had rather
wide variations across the shoe. For these reasons I found the recommended
calibration method using a stack of napkins and heat sink to be somewhat inaccurate
as only a small area is being sampled. I ended up using one of the non
contact infrared thermometers and using the hottest portion of the shoe as my
set temp. One of the small RC covering irons was also very helpful.
You are probably already aware of all the reasons Poly Tone is recommended and
they are all true but I would use a urethane paint next time. The Poly Tone just
is not as durable as the urethanes.
The checker board is Mono coat trim coat which works very well and the tail emblem
was cut by a local sign maker after they blew up and adjusted a shop manual
drawing.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417604#417604
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