Today's Message Index:
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1. 05:44 AM - Re: Re: problem firestar (Jack B. Hart)
2. 07:55 AM - Re: Re: problem Firestar (John Hauck)
3. 08:27 AM - Re: Re: problem Firestar (John Hauck)
4. 09:56 AM - Re: problem firestar (dany88)
5. 11:37 AM - Re: Re: problem Firestar (Jack B. Hart)
6. 02:05 PM - Original flightstar gross (lspilot82)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: problem firestar |
Boyd,
Checked out possibilities at McMaster Carr. (http://www.mcmaster.com)
Looked at Teflon washers. Part number 95630A505, Low-Friction PTFE Flat
Washer, 1/2" Screw Size, 1.5" OD, .017"-.023" Thick Packages of 10 for
$15.71
And sheets. One side is etched for bonding with adhesive. The other side
has a smooth finish. Part number 8711K91, Sheets Made with Teflon PTFE,
Adhesive Ready, .015" Thick, 6" x 6" $7.81 per sheet
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From: B Young <byoungplumbing@gmail.com>
Been thinking,,, over here we have plastic 1 gallon milk bottles .... If
you cut some o of the very thin plastic from a milk bottle, or a thin
plastic Pepsi or coke bottle and put between the universal joint and the
frame,,, and under the washer on the inside of the universal,,,, then when
it turns when you fold the wings. It should cause no wear.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: problem Firestar |
Kolbers:
I don't think Homer Kolb intended anything between the universal and the
airframe, especially paint, plastic washers, and "o" rings, especially
paint. The end of the universal should be clean as well as the contact
point on the airframe, with a light coat of grease to prevent rust and
assist in rotation during wing fold.
Normally during welding the universal joints, the flat end piece warps a
bit. When I had a problem with a loose joint on an early Kolb I built, I
discovered the paint and primer had worn off after my initial adjustment and
installation, and the end of the universal was slightly domed/convex. I
removed it, got the appropriate tools, whacked it a couple times creating a
slightly concave end piece. Now I had two pieces that mated on flat
surfaces. Next I used a combination of thick (1/16") and thin (1/32") AN
washers to adjust out the slop that I got when the castellated nut was lined
up for the cotter pin. You know how that works. One slot is too tight and
the next is too loose. I have a lot of hours, compared to most Kolbs, on my
MKIII, and I have snug rear attach points on my wings that will rotate
without causing any damage to wing or airframe. A lot of force can be
applied to these parts when rotating the wing if the connection is too
tight.
I personally would not use plastic or rubber to snug up these connections.
My personal opinion only. Don't recommend anyone else doing it the way I
did, but my way has proven to work well over many hours and many years.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: problem Firestar |
Kolbers:
My previous post reminded me of another problem I encountered about 20 years
ago with my MKIII and my first 912 installation on that aircraft. As usual,
I painted the engine mount angle aluminum with plenty primer and paint to
make it look good. The mistake I made was not to mask off the small area
where the mounts contacted the bosses on the engine case. Didn't take long
for vibration to erode the paint and primer causing the four engine mount
bolts to loosen up.
When I swapped the 912ul for a 912uls I alodined the aluminum angle engine
mounts. No more problems.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: problem firestar |
Here is a brass plate cutout thin now.
Some photos of the work done for painting
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417822#417822
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: problem Firestar |
John,
I do not believe Homer Kolb intended one to tighten the wing universal
assembly bolts after one unfolds the wing prior to flying as you do.
At 200+ hours mine were very loose and worn. I repaired them so that I can
fold the wing as Homer intended without using a wrench to untighten bolts.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
At 09:55 AM 1/29/2014 -0600, you wrote:
>
>Kolbers:
>
> I don't think Homer Kolb intended anything between the universal and the
>airframe, especially paint, plastic washers, and "o" rings, especially
>paint. The end of the universal should be clean as well as the contact
>point on the airframe, with a light coat of grease to prevent rust and
>assist in rotation during wing fold.
>
.................................................
>I personally would not use plastic or rubber to snug up these connections.
>My personal opinion only. Don't recommend anyone else doing it the way I
>did, but my way has proven to work well over many hours and many years.
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Original flightstar gross |
I just recently purchased an original Firestar with the 5 rib wing. I was wondering
if it will be safe to fly over gross? It weighs in at 330lbs and it has a
6 gal tank with a 447. Right now with my weight and the weight of full fuel,
I'll be about 90lbs over gross. I'm not going to fly it in high winds and will
fly it during calm days, but we all know sometimes you can be as safe as possible
and still fly into some bad things. I just want to know if I'll be ok as
long as I don't push it. Another question is, I seen you can add additional ribs
to the wings. Making a 5 rib wing into a 9 rib wing. I would like to know how
to go about doing that, and if it really is beneficial. I'd rather not buy
a 7 rib wing and just make my 5 rib safer. Are there any videos or anything written
on that. Thanks[/quote]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417840#417840
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