Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:21 AM - Re: firefly fuselage cover question (Ducati SS)
2. 09:37 AM - Re: Re: aileron gap seal (Richard Girard)
3. 08:13 PM - Re: Rear housing for a Rotax E- gearbox (Richard Girard)
4. 08:19 PM - Re: Dual Stick Postion and Movement (Richard Girard)
5. 08:30 PM - Re: Re: firefly fuselage cover question (Stuart Harner)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: firefly fuselage cover question |
Did you test fit the parts with the pivot sleeves over the boom bolt? On my Firefly
the weld at the tube junction is enough to hold the arm away from the fabric,
almost no contact. I will try to get pictures, perhaps tomorrow.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=424824#424824
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: aileron gap seal |
Dennis, Unlike the tape, which loses plasticity over time just by being
exposed to the atmosphere, dacron (polyester) is most damaged by UV
exposure. According to Kamron Blevins of Northwing, a trike sail is toast
at around 600 hours of exposure. Now we're talking about being unsafe
bearing the full structural loading of the aircraft, not just useful
lifetime, so you're aileron gap seals might just outlive you. What will
probably fail before that will be the adhesive for the same reasons as the
book binders tape. Or, maybe not. :-}
Anyway, sounds like you've come up with a good solution.
Rick Girard
do not archive
On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 3:48 PM, KIRBY, DENNIS T GS-14 USAF AFMC AFNWC/ENS <
dennis.kirby.3@us.af.mil> wrote:
> AFNWC/ENS" <dennis.kirby.3@us.af.mil>
>
> "t41pilot" wrote: << I just started my 3rd season using the book binding
> tape. No deterioration showing up yet. My plane is hangared though. The
> tape is cheap and easy to install. >>
>
>
> Gregg / Kolb Friends -
>
> I also initially used the clear plastic bookbinding tape for aileron &
> flaps gap seals on my Mark-3. Strong and flexible, and it worked fine for
> about 6 years. Then, the tape began to dry out and started cracking and
> falling off. Before another year had passed, most of the original
> bookbinding tape on my ailerons (where most movement occurs) was gone.
>
> I knew I needed to replace the tape, but I wanted something that would
> last longer. So instead of the clear book tape, and following the
> recommendation from someone on this Kolb List (forgot who), I used sailboat
> repair tape. It's lightweight dacron cloth tape, very sticky, comes in a
> 4-inch wide roll. I split the tape evenly lengthwise (yielding two 2-inch
> wide strips), and stuck them back together with a one-inch overlap,
> sticky-side to sticky-side.
>
> The resulting 3-inch wide strip of tape was easy to apply, attaching on
> the top of the wing, and the underside of the aileron. For now, it's only
> covering the gaps on the ailerons, and it's only been there for a year.
> When the clear book tape finally crumbles away from the other areas
> (flaps, elevator, rudder gaps), I'll replace it with the sail repair tape.
>
> I have no idea how long the Dacron sail tape will last. But it was fun to
> try something different!
>
> Dennis Kirby
> Mark-3, 912ul, in
> Sandia Park, NM
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Rear housing for a Rotax E- gearbox |
Dennis, From the IPC, part no. 840270, plug, magnetic M18 X 1.5.
Rick Girard
do not archive
On Fri, Jun 13, 2014 at 6:24 AM, Dennis Rowe <rowedenny@windstream.net>
wrote:
> Hey guys,
> Disassembly of the housing and removal of the plug reveled damage to the
> threads. Looks like someone may have cross threaded the plug and caused the
> crack, than chased the threads to clean it up. Real butcher. Anyway, it's
> at the weld shop now and I figure I'll have to helicoil the hole after the
> repair.
> Anyone know what thread those suckers are?
>
>
> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>
>
> On Jun 12, 2014, at 4:38 PM, Roy Spangler <roy.spangler@kirtland.edu>
> wrote:
>
>
> Mr. Rowe,
>
> In as much as it is not a structural issue consider JB Weld
>
>
> fyi
>
>
> roy
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 12, 2014 at 2:51 PM, John Hauck <jhauck@elmore.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> Dennis:
>>
>> I feel your pain. Evidently, you are having a case of
>> "Hauck's luck".
>>
>> Better days are coming.
>>
>> john h
>> mkIII
>> Rock House, Oregon
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>> Dennis Rowe
>> Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2014 12:25 PM
>> To: Kolb-list
>> Subject: Kolb-List: Rear housing for a Rotax E- gearbox
>>
>> <rowedenny@windstream.net>
>>
>> Anybody know anyone parting out an E gearbox? I bought a
>> used one with my 670 bottom end and when prepping the engine
>> last night for the test stand I discovered a crack that goes
>> half way around the drain plug and it leaks oil.
>> If I can't find a used housing, I'm going to have to weld
>> it.
>> Apparently a former owner over torqued the drain plug and
>> cracked the housing.
>> The engine builder doesn't think it left his shop like that,
>> but that's the third defect I found in this bottom end since
>> receiving it from him. Also, the crack has dirty oil in it
>> and is definitely not fresh. Also, the drain plug looks like
>> it was through a war.
>> Live and learn.
>> I know damn well I didn't crack it and it wasn't damaged In
>> shipping as the crate was in good condition and well
>> protected.
>> Seriously bummed.
>>
>> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
>> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> =
>> Photoshare, and much much more:
>> =
>> =
>> =
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Dual Stick Postion and Movement |
Brad, You can adjust the rod ends on the control linkage to center the
sticks. You'll have to remove at least one bolt as both rod ends are right
hand threads. You can also slide the whole mechanism from side to side by
loosening the bolts on the clamps that secure it to the seat frame cross
member for gross adjustment if it's way out and then use the rod ends for
fine tuning.
Rick Girard
do not archive
On Thu, Jun 12, 2014 at 9:25 PM, Colin Hudson <colin.scott.hudson@gmail.com>
wrote:
> I put dual controls in my X-tra. They were adjustable. I could adjust
> the sticks to the proper position. Kept them 6 months and removed them.
> Hated them, was really disappointed in them. It was difficult to get in
> the cockpit, but the biggest problems were the extra linkage put a lot of
> play in the controls. Then add in the short sticks and I couldn't handle
> the wind shears. Went back to the larger center stick which is more direct
> and provides much more leverage.
>
> Scott Hudson
> A&P/ATP
> N424AL
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 12, 2014, at 6:47 PM, B Young <byoungplumbing@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Is there a chance your dual stick assembly was built for the narrower mk
> iii classic?
> On Jun 12, 2014 3:11 PM, <nationcap@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Kolbers
>>
>> My Mark-3 Xtra is fitted with dual sticks. But when seated in the
>> pilot's seat, the neutral stick position is not centered between the
>> pilot's thighs. Neutral stick is very close to the pilot's RIGHT inner
>> thigh, which yields plenty of stick travel to the left, but very limited
>> stick travel to the right. I can't move my right leg out of the way to the
>> right, as it's blocked by the center console. Full right stick limit, when
>> it hits my thigh, moves the ailerons only about 60 to 70 percent of their
>> intended travel. Granted, most of the time I may not need the full roll
>> authority but in the one instance i.e. wind shear, I sure would. And I've
>> never seen any flyway sign saying "Danger Wind Sheer Ahead! Seek Alternate
>> Route" you don't know where there might be one.
>> I've thought about adjusting the aileron push rods so that the ailerons
>> are centered when the stick is a bit to the left, but it seems to me that
>> this would limit the aileron movement as well.
>>
>> Is this typical to the Xtra dual-stick design?
>> What have other Xtra owners done to address this?
>>
>> Thanks -
>>
>> Brad Nation
>> Yellowbird1
>> N952DK
>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List>
>> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>
> D============================================
> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List>
> D============================================
> //forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
> D============================================
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> D============================================
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: firefly fuselage cover question |
Yes, I have it assembled as per plans, but then got to looking and
wondering how it all fits with the fabric.
I think the ears of the swing arms are rubbing slightly on a part of the
weld bead. I don't like things that rub, hence the thoughts about washers,
then that led to a longer bolt, etc......
Still trying to figure it all out before I start gluing fabric.
A picture would be great!
Thanks,
Stuart
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ducati SS
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2014 8:21 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: firefly fuselage cover question
Did you test fit the parts with the pivot sleeves over the boom bolt? On my
Firefly the weld at the tube junction is enough to hold the arm away from
the fabric, almost no contact. I will try to get pictures, perhaps tomorrow.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=424824#424824
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