Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:26 AM - Re: Rear housing for a Rotax E- gearbox (racerjerry)
2. 07:24 AM - Re: Re: Rear housing for a Rotax E- gearbox (B Young)
3. 07:37 AM - 1/8 inch plug (B Young)
4. 09:50 AM - Tail Wheel Mark IIIC (K I)
5. 03:08 PM - Re: Re: Rear housing for a Rotax E- gearbox (Richard Girard)
6. 05:05 PM - 582 Engine Vibration on Mark III (Kolb List)
7. 06:51 PM - Re: 582 Engine Vibration on Mark III (GARY JINDRA)
8. 07:38 PM - Re: 582 Engine Vibration on Mark III (Malcolm Brubaker)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Rear housing for a Rotax E- gearbox |
In order to have a CHANCE to seal, the plug will require a perfectly flat sealing
surface exactly perpendicular to the new threads. The sealing washer/gasket
is most likely not very forgiving of error. I doubt very much if this job can
be performed by hand. The tapping operation and afterward a light skim cut to
the sealing surface really needs to be performed with the case clamped securely
in a vertical mill like a Bridgeport and most likely needs a Bridgeport with
a riser block installed to take the height.
--------
Jerry King
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=424864#424864
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Rear housing for a Rotax E- gearbox |
If he uses a 1/8 inch npt pipe thread and plug, it is a tapered thread.
No square shoulder necessary.
Boyd
On Jun 15, 2014 5:28 AM, "racerjerry" <gki@suffolk.lib.ny.us> wrote:
>
> In order to have a CHANCE to seal, the plug will require a perfectly flat
> sealing surface exactly perpendicular to the new threads. The sealing
> washer/gasket is most likely not very forgiving of error. I doubt very much
> if this job can be performed by hand. The tapping operation and afterward a
> light skim cut to the sealing surface really needs to be performed with the
> case clamped securely in a vertical mill like a Bridgeport and most likely
> needs a Bridgeport with a riser block installed to take the height.
>
> --------
> Jerry King
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=424864#424864
>
>
Message 3
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When buying a plug you can go to a plumbing supply and get one work a
raised square top, you can get them in steel or brass. I think I would
go to a plumber or heating contractor and ask if I could get a used plug
from an old gas valve from a water heater or furnace. Most valves have
a1/8 inch plug to test manifold pressure, and they have an Allen wrench
recess.they would look better.
Boyd
Message 4
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Subject: | Tail Wheel Mark IIIC |
I am working on my recently purchased 1993 Mark III. The tail wheel assemb
ly is home-made. It does not track strait as the bushing used by the previo
us owner have worn on one side causing the wheel to trail different from th
e rudder position. It appears that he used it that way and has worn down on
e side of the hard rubber wheel. I know that many Mark III owners have repl
aced their original tail wheel assemblies. If any Mark III owners have one
laying around the hanger=2C let me know what you need for it. *wrk2win4u@ms
n.com*
Kurt
Sandy=2C UT
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Rear housing for a Rotax E- gearbox |
Boyd, The stock plug is 18 mm (.7087") so you'd have to do a lot of welding
to shrink the hole down to a 1/8-27 NPT, for which the tap drill size is
only .332".
By far the greater problem is keeping that casting from warping and
destroying the sealing surface that mates it to the gear case. If that has
to be re-cut then you have to spot face all the bearing bores, too, to
maintain their clearance. At that point you've probably elevated the cost
to the point where it would be cheaper to buy a new gear cover, since no
matter what you do you're going to have to re-shim all the bearings to get
the proper end plays and bearing pre-loads. When I took the clutch out of
my "C" gearbox and put the rubber coupling back in I spent the better part
of a day getting it all set up properly and I was fresh out of Lockwood's
Rotax school where I'd just done it in class. It's not hard to do but it is
quite tedious and should be done in clean room conditions as the clearance
tolerances involved are very small and you'll need to find a copy of the
two stroke Heavy Maintenance manual to get the procedure.
Bottom line if you're out there Denny, I'd call Lockwood and get their
estimate on cost to fix. It would be a shame to wreck you're new engine if
the gearbox locks up or has a melt down not to mention having to make an
emergency off field landing if you're unlucky enough not to be over an
airport at the time.
My two cents.
Rick Girard
do not archive
PS Denny who was the brilliant mechanic (so called) that did this? I know
I'd like to avoid sending him any business.
On Sun, Jun 15, 2014 at 9:24 AM, B Young <byoungplumbing@gmail.com> wrote:
> If he uses a 1/8 inch npt pipe thread and plug, it is a tapered
> thread. No square shoulder necessary.
> Boyd
> On Jun 15, 2014 5:28 AM, "racerjerry" <gki@suffolk.lib.ny.us> wrote:
>
>>
>> In order to have a CHANCE to seal, the plug will require a perfectly flat
>> sealing surface exactly perpendicular to the new threads. The sealing
>> washer/gasket is most likely not very forgiving of error. I doubt very much
>> if this job can be performed by hand. The tapping operation and afterward a
>> light skim cut to the sealing surface really needs to be performed with the
>> case clamped securely in a vertical mill like a Bridgeport and most likely
>> needs a Bridgeport with a riser block installed to take the height.
>>
>> --------
>> Jerry King
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=424864#424864
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>> ==========
>> MS -
>> k">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> e -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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>>
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>> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
Message 6
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Subject: | 582 Engine Vibration on Mark III |
Hoping some of you fellow Kolbers have some troubleshooting ideas. One a
recent flight, the 582 engine on our Mark III suddenly went from being the
usual silky smooth to instant roughness/vibration - almost as if something
suddenly broke. We managed to get it back to the home airport about 13
miles away. The whole airframe was shaking, but the engine seemed to be
developing full power. Switching from one ignition source to the other had
no effect. The engine monitor indicated CHT and EGT to be nearly the same
on both cylinders and within the normal range. I've since changed spark
plugs, removed both carbs for disassembly, cleaning and inspection. I
completely drained the fuel system and put fresh premium alcohol free fuel
in. All has had no effect on the vibration. Engine mounts appear to be OK
- not broken. The engine develops full power, but still shakes badly.
Prop is visually OK. Would appreciate any tips on what to check next. The
next step planned is a compression check. Thanks.
Gary
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: 582 Engine Vibration on Mark III |
check torque on prop bolts=0A=0AGary Jindra=0Amark 3 912 ul =0A=0A=0AOn Sun
day, June 15, 2014 8:10 PM, Kolb List <kolber3@atcyber.net> wrote:=0A =0A
=0A=0AHoping some of you fellow Kolbers have some troubleshooting ideas.=C2
- One a recent flight, the 582 engine on our Mark III suddenly went from
being the usual silky smooth to instant roughness/vibration =93 almos
t as if something suddenly broke.=C2- We managed to get it back to the ho
me airport about 13 miles away.=C2- The whole airframe was shaking, but t
he engine seemed to be developing full power.=C2- Switching from one igni
tion source to the other had no effect.=C2- The engine monitor indicated
CHT and EGT to be nearly the same on both cylinders and within the normal r
ange.=C2- I=99ve since changed spark plugs, removed both carbs for
disassembly, cleaning and inspection.=C2- I completely drained the fuel s
ystem and put fresh premium alcohol free fuel in.=C2-=C2- All has had n
o effect on the vibration.=C2- Engine mounts appear to be OK - not broken
.=C2- The engine develops full power, but still shakes badly.=C2- =C2
-Prop is visually OK.=C2- Would appreciate any tips on what to
check next.=C2- The next step planned is a compression check.=C2- Than
====================
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: 582 Engine Vibration on Mark III |
B gear box? check inspect gear lube for gear wear=C2- C/E gear box check
rubber dampener and fly wheel end bolts around starter=0A=0A=C2-=0AMalcol
m & Jeanne Brubaker =0AMichigan Sport Pilot Repair =0Ahttp://michigansportp
ilotrepair.com=0ALSRM-A, PPC, WS=0AGreat Sails - Sailmaker =0Afor Ultraligh
t & Light Sport=0A(989)513-3022=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0A=0A
=0A________________________________=0A From: GARY JINDRA <gajindra@sbcgloba
l.net>=0ATo: "kolb-list@matronics.com" <kolb-list@matronics.com> =0ASent: S
unday, June 15, 2014 9:51 PM=0ASubject: Re: Kolb-List: 582 Engine Vibration
on Mark III=0A =0A=0A=0Acheck torque on prop bolts=0A=C2-=0AGary Jindra
=0Amark 3 912 ul=0A=0A=0AOn Sunday, June 15, 2014 8:10 PM, Kolb List <kolbe
r3@atcyber.net> wrote:=0A =0A=0A=0AHoping some of you fellow Kolbers have s
ome troubleshooting ideas.=C2- One a recent flight, the 582 engine on our
Mark III suddenly went from being the usual silky smooth to instant roughn
ess/vibration =93 almost as if something suddenly broke.=C2- We man
aged to get it back to the home airport about 13 miles away.=C2- The whol
e airframe was shaking, but the engine seemed to be developing full power.
=C2- Switching from one ignition source to the other had no effect.=C2-
The engine monitor indicated CHT and EGT to be nearly the same on both cyl
inders and within the normal range.=C2- I=99ve since changed spark
plugs, removed both carbs for disassembly, cleaning and inspection.=C2- I
completely drained the fuel system and put fresh premium alcohol free fuel
in.=C2-=C2- All has had no effect on the vibration.=C2- Engine mount
s appear to be OK - not broken.=C2- The engine develops full power, but s
till shakes badly.=C2- =C2-Prop is visually OK.=C2- Would appreciate
any tips on what to
check next.=C2- The next step planned is a compression check.=C2- Than
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