Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:22 AM - Re: Re: Rear housing for a Rotax E- gearbox (Dennis Rowe)
2. 03:08 PM - firefly4Sale (Malcolm Brubaker)
3. 07:00 PM - Re: Kolb-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 06/16/14 (George Bearden)
4. 08:13 PM - Re: 582 Engine Vibration on Mark III (Kolb List)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Rear housing for a Rotax E- gearbox |
Ok all,
This is what was done to fix it.
The crack was welded, than a 1/4" plate was welded over the old hole. Brough
t it home, center drilled and tapped the plate to 1/8 npt. Installed a brass
hex head plug which I drilled for safety wire.
I'm pretty much done buying used gearboxes. Too many gorillas out there turn
ing wrenches on these airplanes.
I've had two very bad experiences in the past couple years, one was a used c
- box that got lost in the mail due to packaging that didn't allow for the a
buse the USPS dishes out, and now I've got this.
On the bright side, I ran the 670 yesterday on the stand for ten minutes and
it started right up and ran smooth as can be. Very quiet. Of course the set
backs included a leak in a weld on the radiator and a leaky outer seal on th
e head. New JBM seals are ordered and the rad is at the welder and will get a
petcock installed to make draining the coolant a lot less messy. Also inst
alling a drain in the water pump housing for the same reason.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Jun 15, 2014, at 6:08 PM, Richard Girard <aslsa.rng@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Boyd, The stock plug is 18 mm (.7087") so you'd have to do a lot of weldin
g to shrink the hole down to a 1/8-27 NPT, for which the tap drill size is o
nly .332".
> By far the greater problem is keeping that casting from warping and destro
ying the sealing surface that mates it to the gear case. If that has to be r
e-cut then you have to spot face all the bearing bores, too, to maintain the
ir clearance. At that point you've probably elevated the cost to the point w
here it would be cheaper to buy a new gear cover, since no matter what you d
o you're going to have to re-shim all the bearings to get the proper end pla
ys and bearing pre-loads. When I took the clutch out of my "C" gearbox and p
ut the rubber coupling back in I spent the better part of a day getting it a
ll set up properly and I was fresh out of Lockwood's Rotax school where I'd j
ust done it in class. It's not hard to do but it is quite tedious and should
be done in clean room conditions as the clearance tolerances involved are v
ery small and you'll need to find a copy of the two stroke Heavy Maintenance
manual to get the procedure.
> Bottom line if you're out there Denny, I'd call Lockwood and get their est
imate on cost to fix. It would be a shame to wreck you're new engine if the g
earbox locks up or has a melt down not to mention having to make an emergenc
y off field landing if you're unlucky enough not to be over an airport at th
e time.
> My two cents.
>
> Rick Girard
> do not archive
>
> PS Denny who was the brilliant mechanic (so called) that did this? I know I
'd like to avoid sending him any business.
>
>
>> On Sun, Jun 15, 2014 at 9:24 AM, B Young <byoungplumbing@gmail.com> wrote
:
>> If he uses a 1/8 inch npt pipe thread and plug, it is a tapered thread
. No square shoulder necessary.
>> Boyd
>>
>>> On Jun 15, 2014 5:28 AM, "racerjerry" <gki@suffolk.lib.ny.us> wrote:
>>>
>>> In order to have a CHANCE to seal, the plug will require a perfectly fla
t sealing surface exactly perpendicular to the new threads. The sealing was
her/gasket is most likely not very forgiving of error. I doubt very much if t
his job can be performed by hand. The tapping operation and afterward a ligh
t skim cut to the sealing surface really needs to be performed with the case
clamped securely in a vertical mill like a Bridgeport and most likely needs
a Bridgeport with a riser block installed to take the height.
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Jerry King
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=424864#424864
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>>> ==========
>>> MS -
>>> k">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> e -
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Zulu Delta
> Mk IIIC
> Thanks, Homer GBYM
>
> It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy
.
> - Groucho Marx
>
>
>
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>
Message 2
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Message 3
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| Subject: | RE: Kolb-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 06/16/14 |
Richard Girard, thanks for your many useful posts. I would like to have you
reconsider your prolific use of "do not archive". Many, or maybe most of
your posts are well worth making available to archive browsing people.
GeoB
Message 4
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| Subject: | RE: 582 Engine Vibration on Mark III |
Update: Thanks to all who have responded with suggestions on things to
inspect. Additional inspection/troubleshooting has still not identified a
smoking gun, so I've made an appointment with a nearby Rotax service center
later this week to trailer in the whole airplane to their facility and have
them take a look at the engine and its installation. Hopefully, this effort
will identify the problem.
Original Message:
Hoping some of you fellow Kolbers have some troubleshooting ideas. One a
recent flight, the 582 engine on our Mark III suddenly went from being the
usual silky smooth to instant roughness/vibration - almost as if something
suddenly broke. We managed to get it back to the home airport about 13
miles away. The whole airframe was shaking, but the engine seemed to be
developing full power. Switching from one ignition source to the other had
no effect. The engine monitor indicated CHT and EGT to be nearly the same
on both cylinders and within the normal range. I've since changed spark
plugs, removed both carbs for disassembly, cleaning and inspection. I
completely drained the fuel system and put fresh premium alcohol free fuel
in. All has had no effect on the vibration. Engine mounts appear to be OK
- not broken. The engine develops full power, but still shakes badly.
Prop is visually OK. Would appreciate any tips on what to check next. The
next step planned is a compression check. Thanks.
Gary
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