Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:09 AM - Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (Denny Baber)
2. 06:20 AM - Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (Tom Jones)
3. 07:20 AM - Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (Richard Pike)
4. 07:51 AM - Re: Repairing a kinked boom tube. (Michael Velemirov)
5. 08:12 AM - Re: Re: Repairing a kinked boom tube. (John Hauck)
6. 08:16 AM - Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (Tom Jones)
7. 08:28 AM - Re: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (Herb)
8. 08:49 AM - Re: Re: Repairing a kinked boom tube. (Herb)
9. 09:23 AM - Re: Re: Repairing a kinked boom tube. (william sullivan)
10. 10:00 AM - Re: Re: Repairing a kinked boom tube. (undoctor)
11. 11:09 AM - Re: Re: Repairing a kinked boom tube. (Herb)
12. 11:26 AM - Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (Richard Pike)
13. 12:02 PM - Re: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (Rick Neilsen)
14. 01:50 PM - Re: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (B Young)
15. 02:17 PM - Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (Tom Jones)
16. 03:45 PM - Re: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (Richard Girard)
17. 04:11 PM - Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (Tom Jones)
18. 07:28 PM - Re: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (jimbaker@npacc.net)
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Subject: | Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing |
I would try LEAF (Leading Edge Air Foils) Here are some of the parts you'll
need. http://store.leadingedgeairfoils.com/index.php?cPath=522_284 After
you make the cable, it is dipped in solder pot to make it secure.
Also, I have shortened the cable sheath with a pipe cutter. It's just as
good as lengthening the cable. The kind with a cutting wheel and you can
adjust the pressure on the wheel with a knob.
Respectfully,
Dennis Baber
Rough diamonds may sometimes be mistaken for worthless pebbles
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Subject: | Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing |
Thanks Dennis. I ordered a cable splitter like that from Spruce. The parts places
all seem to hold the information close to the chest on how the other end
of the splitter connects to the throttle wire from the hand throttle.
When It gets here I'll then see what else I need to put it all together. I also notice the Lockwood catalog has a stainless Steel oil injection fitting for the 503. http://www.lockwood.aero/p-2127-oil-injection-cable-fitting-stainless-503-only.aspx . All the other suppliers seem to use the brass fitting like wore out on mine.
Doing a little more research I have run across a couple other 503 owners that have
removed their oil injection for this same reason...the brass cable fitting
wears out quickly.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437549#437549
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Subject: | Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing |
Just looking at the top picture, it appears that the bracket is not properly aligned
with the pump arm. Why not either twist the bracket a bit to line up, or
fabricate a new bracket that puts the fitting in a better position?
Then you need a new end fitting, you can get one from CPS, I noticed they have
2 sizes, a smaller one for the 582 and a bigger one for the 503.
Looking at the close-up of the swedge, you can see where the solder has run up
the cable for about 3/4". That will certainly retain it, but also make the cable
stiffer. There is a foolproof way to solder a swedge end on without a solder
pot, and the solder does not run up the cable as far.
The swedge end will typically have the cable hole on one side the exact diameter
of the cable and it will be cut off flush with the surface. That is your entrance
hole, the cable enters the swedge from that side. The other side has the
hole somewhat flared or countersunk and also slightly larger in diameter. That
is your exit hole. If it is not slightly oversize or countersunk & flared,
make it so. Just a little bit, it doesn't take much.
With the cable extending slightly from the exit side, take a rib stitching needle,
ice pick or similar, and thoroughly rat tail, unweave and debraid the cable,
you goal is to physically enlarge the diameter of the cable so that it cannot
pull back through even if you didn't solder it. You will be surprised how easy
and effective this is. Now solder it, and you ought to see a bit of the solder
flow back out through the cable on the entrance side. What the solder is
doing is making it impossible for the steel cable to compress & get any smaller.
The adhesion of the solder to the swedge is now no longer the primary securing
method, it is now complimentary to the physical size difference between the
cable & the swedge. Clean up the excessive rat tail by taking a Dremel wheel
and trimming the rat tailed exit end back smooth with the swedge.
Now you have a cable that is oversized on its exit side, and cannot be compressed
& pulled back through a tapered and smaller hole. Plus it is still soldered
to the swedge anyway. Using the solder pot method, the hole and the cable are
a constant diameter, and rely entirely on the strength of the solder joint, in
which case a solder pot is mandatory.
Food for thought, worth what ya paid for it.
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
My soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It shall rejoice in His salvation. Psalm 35:9
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437551#437551
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Subject: | RE: Repairing a kinked boom tube. |
I purchased my MK II with a bent tube and one bent landing gear. The
tube was bent behind the H truss. I chose to replace the tube rather
than repair it. if the H truss is bent replace it otherwise you can
reuse it and the tail post truss. it is fairly simple to match drill
the holes with a template. you can purchase a new tube from Travis, for
under $500. I spent 35 years as a machinist and 13 years of that was
in a mechanical engineering shop in the Aerospace industry. I learned
about metal properties from the =9Crocket scientists=9D I
worked with. My experience tell me to replace not repair. Stand on
an empty pop can that has no dents in it. it will support your weight.
Put a little dent in it and it will collapse. Just my opinion.
Michael Velemirov
Mk II
N5067R
Message 5
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Subject: | RE: Repairing a kinked boom tube. |
My hat is off to anyone that could match drill a Kolb tail boom to reuse
an H brace!
Was difficult for me to accomplish with new H braces. Over the years
installed 13 on my three Kolbs, if I counted correctly. Not easy when
on runs out of fingers.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Velemirov
Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2015 9:51 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: RE: Repairing a kinked boom tube.
I purchased my MK II with a bent tube and one bent landing gear. The
tube was bent behind the H truss. I chose to replace the tube rather
than repair it. if the H truss is bent replace it otherwise you can
reuse it and the tail post truss. it is fairly simple to match drill
the holes with a template. you can purchase a new tube from Travis, for
under $500. I spent 35 years as a machinist and 13 years of that was
in a mechanical engineering shop in the Aerospace industry. I learned
about metal properties from the =9Crocket scientists=9D I
worked with. My experience tell me to replace not repair. Stand on
an empty pop can that has no dents in it. it will support your weight.
Put a little dent in it and it will collapse. Just my opinion.
Michael Velemirov
Mk II
N5067R
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing |
Thanks for that tip on soldering the swedge Richard! I am going to order one of
those stainless steel swedges from Lockwood and do that. I feel a lot better
about getting this done now.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437555#437555
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing |
Good 'splanation.....Richard
Strikes me that silver solder would be more durable? Herb
On 01/24/2015 09:19 AM, Richard Pike wrote:
>
> Just looking at the top picture, it appears that the bracket is not properly
aligned with the pump arm. Why not either twist the bracket a bit to line up,
or fabricate a new bracket that puts the fitting in a better position?
>
> Then you need a new end fitting, you can get one from CPS, I noticed they have
2 sizes, a smaller one for the 582 and a bigger one for the 503.
>
> Looking at the close-up of the swedge, you can see where the solder has run up
the cable for about 3/4". That will certainly retain it, but also make the cable
stiffer. There is a foolproof way to solder a swedge end on without a solder
pot, and the solder does not run up the cable as far.
>
> The swedge end will typically have the cable hole on one side the exact diameter
of the cable and it will be cut off flush with the surface. That is your entrance
hole, the cable enters the swedge from that side. The other side has the
hole somewhat flared or countersunk and also slightly larger in diameter. That
is your exit hole. If it is not slightly oversize or countersunk & flared,
make it so. Just a little bit, it doesn't take much.
>
> With the cable extending slightly from the exit side, take a rib stitching needle,
ice pick or similar, and thoroughly rat tail, unweave and debraid the cable,
you goal is to physically enlarge the diameter of the cable so that it cannot
pull back through even if you didn't solder it. You will be surprised how
easy and effective this is. Now solder it, and you ought to see a bit of the
solder flow back out through the cable on the entrance side. What the solder
is doing is making it impossible for the steel cable to compress & get any smaller.
The adhesion of the solder to the swedge is now no longer the primary securing
method, it is now complimentary to the physical size difference between
the cable & the swedge. Clean up the excessive rat tail by taking a Dremel wheel
and trimming the rat tailed exit end back smooth with the swedge.
>
> Now you have a cable that is oversized on its exit side, and cannot be compressed
& pulled back through a tapered and smaller hole. Plus it is still soldered
to the swedge anyway. Using the solder pot method, the hole and the cable are
a constant diameter, and rely entirely on the strength of the solder joint,
in which case a solder pot is mandatory.
>
> Food for thought, worth what ya paid for it.
>
> --------
> Richard Pike
> Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> Kingsport, TN 3TN0
> My soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It shall rejoice in His salvation. Psalm
35:9
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437551#437551
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: RE: Repairing a kinked boom tube. |
I have used 1/16th thick lexan strips to match hole..making sure one
has a tight fit with the thru bolt hole before starting...
By the way...I bought a bunch of scratch and dent 5 inch tubes from
TNK some years back..Perfectly good...the factory could not sell
anything but perfect tubes so they had a trailer full of these in 6 and
5 inch... Cannot imagine shipping them...but would gladly sell them for
half retail to anyone who wants to pick them up...South cent Ky
I also have a set of Firefly spars...but all the holes are drilled
for I replaced them when I went to the single lift strut wing as is on
the Firestar... could be a match hole nightmare...but doable...If I
had a hole off by a bit...I would go to the next size rivet..
400 bucks!! Wow!! And I know Travis ain't making a bunch on
them...Wish I had bought the whole trailer load...!!
By the way...have my Firefly secured on a U storage lot in
Conn....hoping to get it by end of March...
and....I am rebuilding the Firestar wings that Bro Richard gave to
me....Seriously thinking about trying them on the Fly... :-)
On 01/24/2015 10:12 AM, John Hauck wrote:
>
> My hat is off to anyone that could match drill a Kolb tail boom to
> reuse an H brace!
>
> Was difficult for me to accomplish with new H braces.Over the years
> installed 13 on my three Kolbs, if I counted correctly.Not easy when
> on runs out of fingers.
>
> john h
>
> mkIII
>
> Titus, Alabama
>
> *From:*owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Michael
> Velemirov
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 24, 2015 9:51 AM
> *To:* Kolb-List Digest Server
> *Subject:* Kolb-List: RE: Repairing a kinked boom tube.
>
> I purchased my MK II with a bent tube and one bent landing gear. The
> tube was bent behind the H truss. I chose to replace the tube rather
> than repair it. if the H truss is bent replace it otherwise you can
> reuse it and the tail post truss. it is fairly simple to match drill
> the holes with a template. you can purchase a new tube from Travis,
> for under $500. I spent 35 years as a machinist and 13 years of that
> was in a mechanical engineering shop in the Aerospace industry. I
> learned about metal properties from the rocket scientists I worked
> with. My experience tell me to replace not repair. Stand on an
> empty pop can that has no dents in it. it will support your weight.
> Put a little dent in it and it will collapse. Just my opinion.
>
> Michael Velemirov
>
> Mk II
>
> N5067R
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> * - The Kolb-List Email Forum -*
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Subject: | RE: Repairing a kinked boom tube. |
I replaced the boom tube on my original Firestar with a new one from Travis.
I don't remember the cost, but at the time it was reasonable- aluminum prices
vary widely from time to time. It showed up well packaged, within about a week.
I strapped down the old tube, and got a height center on the rivets with
a square and a tape measure. I drew a pen line horizontally on the new tube.
I then took a circular saw and cut templates from the old tube, clamped them
in place ( a right and left upper quarter, well marked for front, rear, top,
and bottom) and drilled through the old holes. The old H brace went right in,
all holes lining up perfectly. I did the same for the tail. Just make sure
to de-burr both the templates and the new holes.
Bill Sullivan
Windsor Locks,
Ct.
FS, 447
Message 10
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Subject: | RE: Repairing a kinked boom tube. |
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Message 11
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Subject: | Re: RE: Repairing a kinked boom tube. |
a very knowledgeable fellow with Kolbs...going back to the early
days...sometimes on this list...indicated that what you did was
perfectly good..
I would not be concerned with the same or similar splice on the
inboard end of the main spar...inboard of the lift strut...
The trouble comes when one is ready to sell...disclosing these types
of fixes, as we must, is sure to kill the sale..!
Herb
On 01/24/2015 12:00 PM, undoctor wrote:
> I kinked the boom tube on my UltraSrar in a rough landing from an
> engine out. I got a scratch and dent and H brace from Homer. Rather
> than re-do the tail feathers I cut the tube a foot fore the tail and
> cut the new tube to exactly match the length of the rest of the boom.
>
> After installing the H brace and the new boom tube into the ring, I
> cut a 1' piece from the old tube, cut a kerf end to end which allowed
> me to reduce the diameter of the piece so that I could rubber mallet
> into the two ends of the original and new boom tube sections.
>
> Then I rivited both sides of the splice to the boom tube to make it
> "one" I also smeared adhesive on the kerfed coupling to assure it
> didn't begin to move.
>
> I have some pix of the process. If you'd care to see them email me
> off list.
>
> Spoke with some experts in metals who assured me it was likely
> stronger than original at the splice.
>
> Worked for me. Your fix is your choice, of course.
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Smartphone
>
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: John Hauck
> Date:01/24/2015 11:12 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: kolb-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: RE: Repairing a kinked boom tube.
>
> *From:*owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Michael
> Velemirov
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 24, 2015 9:51 AM
> *To:* Kolb-List Digest Server
> *Subject:* Kolb-List: RE: Repairing a kinked boom tube.
>
> I purchased my MK II with a bent tube and one bent landing gear. The
> tube was bent behind the H truss. I chose to replace the tube rather
> than repair it. if the H truss is bent replace it otherwise you can
> reuse it and the tail post truss. it is fairly simple to match drill
> the holes with a template. you can purchase a new tube from Travis,
> for under $500. I spent 35 years as a machinist and 13 years of that
> was in a mechanical engineering shop in the Aerospace industry. I
> learned about metal properties from the rocket scientists I worked
> with. My experience tell me to replace not repair. Stand on an
> empty pop can that has no dents in it. it will support your weight.
> Put a little dent in it and it will collapse. Just my opinion.
>
> Michael Velemirov
>
> Mk II
>
> N5067R
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> * - The Kolb-List Email Forum -*
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> * -Matt Dralle, List Admin.*
> * -->http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
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> *
> ~,gM4Gqz.'8*[.+-fZ+`axr^jzZ(j|n)b'!j'+ry'C
> {
> ,x(ZP!jrrj|-&j',r5h%lm 'ojj+*[.+-08IaT1
> jgrz{Zi^&lZ+ky+k&j',r+k&j',rhB{ky.+jY^.+-i0fr((nbxm-&j',rr&*''k{w/tml
Message 12
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|
Subject: | Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing |
I only ever did this with brass. Did not know that you could solder anything to
stainless steel.
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
My soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It shall rejoice in His salvation. Psalm 35:9
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437568#437568
Message 13
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|
Subject: | Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing |
I don't know how the fittings are connected to the Rotax oil pump but most
cable fittings rotate so that there is little or no ware on the soft cable
ends or bending of the cable. Could you consider changing the attach
fitting?
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
On Sat, Jan 24, 2015 at 2:24 PM, Richard Pike <thegreybaron@charter.net>
wrote:
>
> I only ever did this with brass. Did not know that you could solder
> anything to stainless steel.
>
> --------
> Richard Pike
> Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> Kingsport, TN 3TN0
> My soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It shall rejoice in His salvation.
> Psalm 35:9
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437568#437568
>
>
Message 14
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|
Subject: | Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing |
Soldering stainless steel requires a good flux. I did some
experimenting..if I fluxed the SS cable and used a soldering iron without
much success.... melted some solder in a half inch copper cap and dipped
fluxed SS cable in the melted solder and it worked quite well
Boyd Young
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing |
Richard Pike wrote:
> I only ever did this with brass. Did not know that you could solder anything
to stainless steel.
I was thinking of soldering the steel cable to secure it in the swedge using your
method. The swedge is the only stainless part.
> The adhesion of the solder to the swedge is now no longer the primary securing
method, it is now complimentary to the physical size difference between the
cable & the swedge. Clean up the excessive rat tail by taking a Dremel wheel and
trimming the rat tailed exit end back smooth with the swedge.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437579#437579
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing |
Tom, To solder the stainless steel you have to get through the oxide layer
on the stainless. Most of the fluxes to accomplish this are acidic. The
flux will wick up the cable and is difficult if not impossible to remove.
On top of that you're going to have to get both parts red hot. Both
operations are going to be bad for the cable.
Rick Girard
On Sat, Jan 24, 2015 at 4:17 PM, Tom Jones <nahsikhs@elltel.net> wrote:
>
>
> Richard Pike wrote:
> > I only ever did this with brass. Did not know that you could solder
> anything to stainless steel.
>
>
> I was thinking of soldering the steel cable to secure it in the swedge
> using your method. The swedge is the only stainless part.
>
>
> > The adhesion of the solder to the swedge is now no longer the primary
> securing method, it is now complimentary to the physical size difference
> between the cable & the swedge. Clean up the excessive rat tail by taking a
> Dremel wheel and trimming the rat tailed exit end back smooth with the
> swedge.
>
>
> --------
> Tom Jones
> Classic IV
> 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
> Ellensburg, WA
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437579#437579
>
>
--
Believe those who are seeking the truth, doubt those who find it.
-Andre Gide
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing |
Well, I guess I'll go back to brass and hope for the best. I ordered 4 brass swedges
so I can replace them every 20 hours or so I guess.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437583#437583
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing |
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