---------------------------------------------------------- Kolb-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 01/24/15: 18 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:09 AM - Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (Denny Baber) 2. 06:20 AM - Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (Tom Jones) 3. 07:20 AM - Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (Richard Pike) 4. 07:51 AM - Re: Repairing a kinked boom tube. (Michael Velemirov) 5. 08:12 AM - Re: Re: Repairing a kinked boom tube. (John Hauck) 6. 08:16 AM - Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (Tom Jones) 7. 08:28 AM - Re: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (Herb) 8. 08:49 AM - Re: Re: Repairing a kinked boom tube. (Herb) 9. 09:23 AM - Re: Re: Repairing a kinked boom tube. (william sullivan) 10. 10:00 AM - Re: Re: Repairing a kinked boom tube. (undoctor) 11. 11:09 AM - Re: Re: Repairing a kinked boom tube. (Herb) 12. 11:26 AM - Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (Richard Pike) 13. 12:02 PM - Re: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (Rick Neilsen) 14. 01:50 PM - Re: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (B Young) 15. 02:17 PM - Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (Tom Jones) 16. 03:45 PM - Re: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (Richard Girard) 17. 04:11 PM - Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (Tom Jones) 18. 07:28 PM - Re: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing (jimbaker@npacc.net) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:09:04 AM PST US Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 503 oil pump cable end wearing From: Denny Baber I would try LEAF (Leading Edge Air Foils) Here are some of the parts you'll need. http://store.leadingedgeairfoils.com/index.php?cPath=522_284 After you make the cable, it is dipped in solder pot to make it secure. Also, I have shortened the cable sheath with a pipe cutter. It's just as good as lengthening the cable. The kind with a cutting wheel and you can adjust the pressure on the wheel with a knob. Respectfully, Dennis Baber Rough diamonds may sometimes be mistaken for worthless pebbles ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:20:11 AM PST US Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing From: "Tom Jones" Thanks Dennis. I ordered a cable splitter like that from Spruce. The parts places all seem to hold the information close to the chest on how the other end of the splitter connects to the throttle wire from the hand throttle. When It gets here I'll then see what else I need to put it all together. I also notice the Lockwood catalog has a stainless Steel oil injection fitting for the 503. http://www.lockwood.aero/p-2127-oil-injection-cable-fitting-stainless-503-only.aspx . All the other suppliers seem to use the brass fitting like wore out on mine. Doing a little more research I have run across a couple other 503 owners that have removed their oil injection for this same reason...the brass cable fitting wears out quickly. -------- Tom Jones Classic IV 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp Ellensburg, WA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437549#437549 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:20:13 AM PST US Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing From: "Richard Pike" Just looking at the top picture, it appears that the bracket is not properly aligned with the pump arm. Why not either twist the bracket a bit to line up, or fabricate a new bracket that puts the fitting in a better position? Then you need a new end fitting, you can get one from CPS, I noticed they have 2 sizes, a smaller one for the 582 and a bigger one for the 503. Looking at the close-up of the swedge, you can see where the solder has run up the cable for about 3/4". That will certainly retain it, but also make the cable stiffer. There is a foolproof way to solder a swedge end on without a solder pot, and the solder does not run up the cable as far. The swedge end will typically have the cable hole on one side the exact diameter of the cable and it will be cut off flush with the surface. That is your entrance hole, the cable enters the swedge from that side. The other side has the hole somewhat flared or countersunk and also slightly larger in diameter. That is your exit hole. If it is not slightly oversize or countersunk & flared, make it so. Just a little bit, it doesn't take much. With the cable extending slightly from the exit side, take a rib stitching needle, ice pick or similar, and thoroughly rat tail, unweave and debraid the cable, you goal is to physically enlarge the diameter of the cable so that it cannot pull back through even if you didn't solder it. You will be surprised how easy and effective this is. Now solder it, and you ought to see a bit of the solder flow back out through the cable on the entrance side. What the solder is doing is making it impossible for the steel cable to compress & get any smaller. The adhesion of the solder to the swedge is now no longer the primary securing method, it is now complimentary to the physical size difference between the cable & the swedge. Clean up the excessive rat tail by taking a Dremel wheel and trimming the rat tailed exit end back smooth with the swedge. Now you have a cable that is oversized on its exit side, and cannot be compressed & pulled back through a tapered and smaller hole. Plus it is still soldered to the swedge anyway. Using the solder pot method, the hole and the cable are a constant diameter, and rely entirely on the strength of the solder joint, in which case a solder pot is mandatory. Food for thought, worth what ya paid for it. -------- Richard Pike Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) Kingsport, TN 3TN0 My soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It shall rejoice in His salvation. Psalm 35:9 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437551#437551 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:51:21 AM PST US From: "Michael Velemirov" Subject: Kolb-List: RE: Repairing a kinked boom tube. I purchased my MK II with a bent tube and one bent landing gear. The tube was bent behind the H truss. I chose to replace the tube rather than repair it. if the H truss is bent replace it otherwise you can reuse it and the tail post truss. it is fairly simple to match drill the holes with a template. you can purchase a new tube from Travis, for under $500. I spent 35 years as a machinist and 13 years of that was in a mechanical engineering shop in the Aerospace industry. I learned about metal properties from the =9Crocket scientists=9D I worked with. My experience tell me to replace not repair. Stand on an empty pop can that has no dents in it. it will support your weight. Put a little dent in it and it will collapse. Just my opinion. Michael Velemirov Mk II N5067R ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:12:47 AM PST US From: "John Hauck" Subject: RE: Kolb-List: RE: Repairing a kinked boom tube. My hat is off to anyone that could match drill a Kolb tail boom to reuse an H brace! Was difficult for me to accomplish with new H braces. Over the years installed 13 on my three Kolbs, if I counted correctly. Not easy when on runs out of fingers. john h mkIII Titus, Alabama From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Velemirov Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2015 9:51 AM Subject: Kolb-List: RE: Repairing a kinked boom tube. I purchased my MK II with a bent tube and one bent landing gear. The tube was bent behind the H truss. I chose to replace the tube rather than repair it. if the H truss is bent replace it otherwise you can reuse it and the tail post truss. it is fairly simple to match drill the holes with a template. you can purchase a new tube from Travis, for under $500. I spent 35 years as a machinist and 13 years of that was in a mechanical engineering shop in the Aerospace industry. I learned about metal properties from the =9Crocket scientists=9D I worked with. My experience tell me to replace not repair. Stand on an empty pop can that has no dents in it. it will support your weight. Put a little dent in it and it will collapse. Just my opinion. Michael Velemirov Mk II N5067R ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:16:41 AM PST US Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing From: "Tom Jones" Thanks for that tip on soldering the swedge Richard! I am going to order one of those stainless steel swedges from Lockwood and do that. I feel a lot better about getting this done now. -------- Tom Jones Classic IV 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp Ellensburg, WA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437555#437555 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:28:03 AM PST US From: Herb Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing Good 'splanation.....Richard Strikes me that silver solder would be more durable? Herb On 01/24/2015 09:19 AM, Richard Pike wrote: > > Just looking at the top picture, it appears that the bracket is not properly aligned with the pump arm. Why not either twist the bracket a bit to line up, or fabricate a new bracket that puts the fitting in a better position? > > Then you need a new end fitting, you can get one from CPS, I noticed they have 2 sizes, a smaller one for the 582 and a bigger one for the 503. > > Looking at the close-up of the swedge, you can see where the solder has run up the cable for about 3/4". That will certainly retain it, but also make the cable stiffer. There is a foolproof way to solder a swedge end on without a solder pot, and the solder does not run up the cable as far. > > The swedge end will typically have the cable hole on one side the exact diameter of the cable and it will be cut off flush with the surface. That is your entrance hole, the cable enters the swedge from that side. The other side has the hole somewhat flared or countersunk and also slightly larger in diameter. That is your exit hole. If it is not slightly oversize or countersunk & flared, make it so. Just a little bit, it doesn't take much. > > With the cable extending slightly from the exit side, take a rib stitching needle, ice pick or similar, and thoroughly rat tail, unweave and debraid the cable, you goal is to physically enlarge the diameter of the cable so that it cannot pull back through even if you didn't solder it. You will be surprised how easy and effective this is. Now solder it, and you ought to see a bit of the solder flow back out through the cable on the entrance side. What the solder is doing is making it impossible for the steel cable to compress & get any smaller. The adhesion of the solder to the swedge is now no longer the primary securing method, it is now complimentary to the physical size difference between the cable & the swedge. Clean up the excessive rat tail by taking a Dremel wheel and trimming the rat tailed exit end back smooth with the swedge. > > Now you have a cable that is oversized on its exit side, and cannot be compressed & pulled back through a tapered and smaller hole. Plus it is still soldered to the swedge anyway. Using the solder pot method, the hole and the cable are a constant diameter, and rely entirely on the strength of the solder joint, in which case a solder pot is mandatory. > > Food for thought, worth what ya paid for it. > > -------- > Richard Pike > Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > Kingsport, TN 3TN0 > My soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It shall rejoice in His salvation. Psalm 35:9 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437551#437551 > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:49:59 AM PST US From: Herb Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RE: Repairing a kinked boom tube. I have used 1/16th thick lexan strips to match hole..making sure one has a tight fit with the thru bolt hole before starting... By the way...I bought a bunch of scratch and dent 5 inch tubes from TNK some years back..Perfectly good...the factory could not sell anything but perfect tubes so they had a trailer full of these in 6 and 5 inch... Cannot imagine shipping them...but would gladly sell them for half retail to anyone who wants to pick them up...South cent Ky I also have a set of Firefly spars...but all the holes are drilled for I replaced them when I went to the single lift strut wing as is on the Firestar... could be a match hole nightmare...but doable...If I had a hole off by a bit...I would go to the next size rivet.. 400 bucks!! Wow!! And I know Travis ain't making a bunch on them...Wish I had bought the whole trailer load...!! By the way...have my Firefly secured on a U storage lot in Conn....hoping to get it by end of March... and....I am rebuilding the Firestar wings that Bro Richard gave to me....Seriously thinking about trying them on the Fly... :-) On 01/24/2015 10:12 AM, John Hauck wrote: > > My hat is off to anyone that could match drill a Kolb tail boom to > reuse an H brace! > > Was difficult for me to accomplish with new H braces.Over the years > installed 13 on my three Kolbs, if I counted correctly.Not easy when > on runs out of fingers. > > john h > > mkIII > > Titus, Alabama > > *From:*owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Michael > Velemirov > *Sent:* Saturday, January 24, 2015 9:51 AM > *To:* Kolb-List Digest Server > *Subject:* Kolb-List: RE: Repairing a kinked boom tube. > > I purchased my MK II with a bent tube and one bent landing gear. The > tube was bent behind the H truss. I chose to replace the tube rather > than repair it. if the H truss is bent replace it otherwise you can > reuse it and the tail post truss. it is fairly simple to match drill > the holes with a template. you can purchase a new tube from Travis, > for under $500. I spent 35 years as a machinist and 13 years of that > was in a mechanical engineering shop in the Aerospace industry. I > learned about metal properties from the rocket scientists I worked > with. My experience tell me to replace not repair. Stand on an > empty pop can that has no dents in it. it will support your weight. > Put a little dent in it and it will collapse. Just my opinion. > > Michael Velemirov > > Mk II > > N5067R > > * * > * * > ** > * - The Kolb-List Email Forum -* > ** > ** > ** > ** > ** > * -->http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List* > ** > ** > * - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -* > ** > ** > * -->http://forums.matronics.com* > ** > ** > * - List Contribution Web Site -* > * Thank you for your generous support!* > * -Matt Dralle, List Admin.* > * -->http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > ** > * * > * > > > * ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:23:30 AM PST US From: william sullivan Subject: RE: Kolb-List: RE: Repairing a kinked boom tube. I replaced the boom tube on my original Firestar with a new one from Travis. I don't remember the cost, but at the time it was reasonable- aluminum prices vary widely from time to time. It showed up well packaged, within about a week. I strapped down the old tube, and got a height center on the rivets with a square and a tape measure. I drew a pen line horizontally on the new tube. I then took a circular saw and cut templates from the old tube, clamped them in place ( a right and left upper quarter, well marked for front, rear, top, and bottom) and drilled through the old holes. The old H brace went right in, all holes lining up perfectly. I did the same for the tail. Just make sure to de-burr both the templates and the new holes. Bill Sullivan Windsor Locks, Ct. FS, 447 ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 10:00:34 AM PST US Subject: RE: Kolb-List: RE: Repairing a kinked boom tube. 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back to the early days...sometimes on this list...indicated that what you did was perfectly good.. I would not be concerned with the same or similar splice on the inboard end of the main spar...inboard of the lift strut... The trouble comes when one is ready to sell...disclosing these types of fixes, as we must, is sure to kill the sale..! Herb On 01/24/2015 12:00 PM, undoctor wrote: > I kinked the boom tube on my UltraSrar in a rough landing from an > engine out. I got a scratch and dent and H brace from Homer. Rather > than re-do the tail feathers I cut the tube a foot fore the tail and > cut the new tube to exactly match the length of the rest of the boom. > > After installing the H brace and the new boom tube into the ring, I > cut a 1' piece from the old tube, cut a kerf end to end which allowed > me to reduce the diameter of the piece so that I could rubber mallet > into the two ends of the original and new boom tube sections. > > Then I rivited both sides of the splice to the boom tube to make it > "one" I also smeared adhesive on the kerfed coupling to assure it > didn't begin to move. > > I have some pix of the process. If you'd care to see them email me > off list. > > Spoke with some experts in metals who assured me it was likely > stronger than original at the splice. > > Worked for me. Your fix is your choice, of course. > > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Smartphone > > > -------- Original message -------- > From: John Hauck > Date:01/24/2015 11:12 AM (GMT-05:00) > To: kolb-list@matronics.com > Subject: RE: Kolb-List: RE: Repairing a kinked boom tube. > > *From:*owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Michael > Velemirov > *Sent:* Saturday, January 24, 2015 9:51 AM > *To:* Kolb-List Digest Server > *Subject:* Kolb-List: RE: Repairing a kinked boom tube. > > I purchased my MK II with a bent tube and one bent landing gear. The > tube was bent behind the H truss. I chose to replace the tube rather > than repair it. if the H truss is bent replace it otherwise you can > reuse it and the tail post truss. it is fairly simple to match drill > the holes with a template. you can purchase a new tube from Travis, > for under $500. I spent 35 years as a machinist and 13 years of that > was in a mechanical engineering shop in the Aerospace industry. I > learned about metal properties from the rocket scientists I worked > with. My experience tell me to replace not repair. Stand on an > empty pop can that has no dents in it. it will support your weight. > Put a little dent in it and it will collapse. Just my opinion. > > Michael Velemirov > > Mk II > > N5067R > > * * > * * > ** > * - The Kolb-List Email Forum -* > ** > ** > ** > ** > ** > * -->http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List* > ** > ** > * - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -* > ** > ** > * -->http://forums.matronics.com * > ** > ** > * - List Contribution Web Site -* > * Thank you for your generous support!* > * -Matt Dralle, List Admin.* > * -->http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > ** > * * > * > > > * > ~,gM4Gqz.'8*[.+-fZ+`axr^jzZ(j|n)b'!j'+ry'C > { > ,x(ZP!jrrj|-&j',r5h%lm 'ojj+*[.+-08IaT1 > jgrz{Zi^&lZ+ky+k&j',r+k&j',rhB{ky.+jY^.+-i0fr((nbxm-&j',rr&*''k{w/tml ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 11:26:32 AM PST US Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing From: "Richard Pike" I only ever did this with brass. Did not know that you could solder anything to stainless steel. -------- Richard Pike Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) Kingsport, TN 3TN0 My soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It shall rejoice in His salvation. Psalm 35:9 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437568#437568 ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 12:02:13 PM PST US Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing From: Rick Neilsen I don't know how the fittings are connected to the Rotax oil pump but most cable fittings rotate so that there is little or no ware on the soft cable ends or bending of the cable. Could you consider changing the attach fitting? Rick Neilsen Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC On Sat, Jan 24, 2015 at 2:24 PM, Richard Pike wrote: > > I only ever did this with brass. Did not know that you could solder > anything to stainless steel. > > -------- > Richard Pike > Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > Kingsport, TN 3TN0 > My soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It shall rejoice in His salvation. > Psalm 35:9 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437568#437568 > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 01:50:32 PM PST US Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing From: B Young Soldering stainless steel requires a good flux. I did some experimenting..if I fluxed the SS cable and used a soldering iron without much success.... melted some solder in a half inch copper cap and dipped fluxed SS cable in the melted solder and it worked quite well Boyd Young ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 02:17:32 PM PST US Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing From: "Tom Jones" Richard Pike wrote: > I only ever did this with brass. Did not know that you could solder anything to stainless steel. I was thinking of soldering the steel cable to secure it in the swedge using your method. The swedge is the only stainless part. > The adhesion of the solder to the swedge is now no longer the primary securing method, it is now complimentary to the physical size difference between the cable & the swedge. Clean up the excessive rat tail by taking a Dremel wheel and trimming the rat tailed exit end back smooth with the swedge. -------- Tom Jones Classic IV 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp Ellensburg, WA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437579#437579 ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 03:45:03 PM PST US Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing From: Richard Girard Tom, To solder the stainless steel you have to get through the oxide layer on the stainless. Most of the fluxes to accomplish this are acidic. The flux will wick up the cable and is difficult if not impossible to remove. On top of that you're going to have to get both parts red hot. Both operations are going to be bad for the cable. Rick Girard On Sat, Jan 24, 2015 at 4:17 PM, Tom Jones wrote: > > > Richard Pike wrote: > > I only ever did this with brass. Did not know that you could solder > anything to stainless steel. > > > I was thinking of soldering the steel cable to secure it in the swedge > using your method. The swedge is the only stainless part. > > > > The adhesion of the solder to the swedge is now no longer the primary > securing method, it is now complimentary to the physical size difference > between the cable & the swedge. Clean up the excessive rat tail by taking a > Dremel wheel and trimming the rat tailed exit end back smooth with the > swedge. > > > -------- > Tom Jones > Classic IV > 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp > Ellensburg, WA > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437579#437579 > > -- Believe those who are seeking the truth, doubt those who find it. -Andre Gide ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 04:11:20 PM PST US Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing From: "Tom Jones" Well, I guess I'll go back to brass and hope for the best. I ordered 4 brass swedges so I can replace them every 20 hours or so I guess. -------- Tom Jones Classic IV 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp Ellensburg, WA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437583#437583 ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 07:28:57 PM PST US From: jimbaker@npacc.net Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: 503 oil pump cable end wearing SSBzdXJlIHdvdWxkbid0IHNldHRsZSBmb3IgMjAgaHIgcmVwbGFjZW1lbnQuIEdldCBpbnZlbnRp dmUuIAoKVGhlIHdlYXIgaW5kaWNhdGVkLCBpZiB0cnVseSBmcm9tIGV4Y2Vzc2l2ZSB2aWJyYXRp b24sIHdvdWxkIGluZGljYXRlIHRoYXQgdGhlIGJhcnJlbCBlbmQgaGFkIHdheSB0b28gbXVjaCBy b29tIHRvIG1vdmUuIFRoZSBhcm0gaXMsIEkgYmVsaWV2ZSwgc3ByaW5nIGxvYWRlZC4uLmFueSB0 aG91Z2h0IHRvIGluY3JlYXNpbmcgdGhhdCB0ZW5zaW9uIHdpdGggYW4gYWRkaXRpb25hbCBzcHJp bmcgc28gdGhlIGNhYmxlIGlzIHVuZGVyIGdyZWF0ZXIgdGVuc2lvbj8gSSdkIGFsc28gdGhpbmsg dGhlIGdyaXQgaW5kdWNlZCB3ZWFyIHRoZW9yeSBpcyBvdmVyYmxvd24uCgpJIHdvdWxkIHByb2Jh Ymx5IG1vZGlmeSB0aGUgY2FibGUgZW5kIHRvIHRoZSBmb3JrL3N3YWdlZCBvciBzb2xkZXJlZCBi YWxsIGRlc2lnbiBhbmQgcmVwbGFjZSB0aGUgYnJhc3MgYmFycmVsIHdpdGggYSBib2x0LiBXaXRo IGEgc21hbGxlciBiYWxsIG9uZSBjb3VsZCBmb3JnbyB0aGUgZm9yayBhbmQgY291bnRlcnNpbmsg dGhlIGJhY2sgb2YgdGhlIGJvbHQgdGhydS1jYWJsZSBob2xlIHRvIHByb3ZpZGUgYSBzZWF0IGZv ciB0aGUgYmFsbC4gQW55IG51bWJlciBvZiB3YXlzIHRvIG1vZGlmeS4gSSdkIGFsc28gbG9vayBh dCBzb21lIGxhcmdlIHNjYWxlIFIvQyBhaXJjcmFmdCBmaXR0aW5ncyBmb3IgaWRlYXMgKCBzbWFs bCBhbGwgbWV0YWwgaGVpbSBqb2ludCBmaXR0aW5ncyBjb21lIHRvIG1pbmQgKS4gCgpodHRwOi8v c3RvcmUucmM0d2QuY29tL0hpZ2gtUHJlY2lzaW9uLUJpbGxldC1UaWUtUm9kLUVuZC1NMy1TaWx2 ZXJfcF82NDEuaHRtbAoKSmltIEJha2VyCjQwNS40MjYuNTM3NwoKLS0tLS1PcmlnaW5hbCBNZXNz YWdlLS0tLS0KRnJvbTogVG9tIEpvbmVzIDxuYWhzaWtoc0BlbGx0ZWwubmV0PgpUbzoga29sYi1s aXN0QG1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20KU2VudDogU2F0LCAyNCBKYW4gMjAxNSA3OjExIFBNClN1YmplY3Q6 IEtvbGItTGlzdDogUmU6IDUwMyBvaWwgcHVtcCBjYWJsZSBlbmQgd2VhcmluZwoKLS0+IEtvbGIt TGlzdCBtZXNzYWdlIHBvc3RlZCBieTogIlRvbSBKb25lcyIgPG5haHNpa2hzQGVsbHRlbC5uZXQ+ CgpXZWxsLCBJIGd1ZXNzIEknbGwgZ28gYmFjayB0byBicmFzcyBhbmQgaG9wZSBmb3IgdGhlIGJl c3QuICBJIG9yZGVyZWQgNCBicmFzcyBzd2VkZ2VzIHNvIEkgY2FuIHJlcGxhY2UgdGhlbSBldmVy eSAyMCBob3VycyBvciBzbyBJIGd1ZXNzLgoKLS0tLS0tLS0KVG9tIEpvbmVzCkNsYXNzaWMgSVYK NTAzIFJvdGF4LCA3MiBpbmNoIFR3byBibGFkZSBXYXJwCkVsbGVuc2J1cmcsIFdBCgoKCgpSZWFk IHRoaXMgdG9waWMgb25saW5lIGhlcmU6CgpodHRwOi8vZm9ydW1zLm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vdmll d3RvcGljLnBocD9wPTQzNzU4MyM0Mzc1ODMKCgoKCgoKCl8tPT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09Cl8tPSAgICAgICAgICAtIFRo ZSBLb2xiLUxpc3QgRW1haWwgRm9ydW0gLQpfLT0gVXNlIHRoZSBNYXRyb25pY3MgTGlzdCBGZWF0 dXJlcyBOYXZpZ2F0b3IgdG8gYnJvd3NlCl8tPSB0aGUgbWFueSBMaXN0IHV0aWxpdGllcyBzdWNo IGFzIExpc3QgVW4vU3Vic2NyaXB0aW9uLApfLT0gQXJjaGl2ZSBTZWFyY2ggJiBEb3dubG9hZCwg Ny1EYXkgQnJvd3NlLCBDaGF0LCBGQVEsCl8tPSBQaG90b3NoYXJlLCBhbmQgbXVjaCBtdWNoIG1v cmU6Cl8tPQpfLT0gICAtLT4gaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL05hdmlnYXRvcj9Lb2xi LUxpc3QKXy09Cl8tPT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09Cl8tPSAgICAgICAgICAgICAgIC0gTUFUUk9OSUNTIFdFQiBGT1JVTVMg LQpfLT0gU2FtZSBncmVhdCBjb250ZW50IGFsc28gYXZhaWxhYmxlIHZpYSB0aGUgV2ViIEZvcnVt cyEKXy09Cl8tPSAgIC0tPiBodHRwOi8vZm9ydW1zLm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20KXy09Cl8tPT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09Cl8t PSAgICAgICAgICAgICAtIExpc3QgQ29udHJpYnV0aW9uIFdlYiBTaXRlIC0KXy09ICBUaGFuayB5 b3UgZm9yIHlvdXIgZ2VuZXJvdXMgc3VwcG9ydCEKXy09ICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAg ICAgICAgLU1hdHQgRHJhbGxlLCBMaXN0IEFkbWluLgpfLT0gICAtLT4gaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRy b25pY3MuY29tL2NvbnRyaWJ1dGlvbgpfLT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PQoKCgoK ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message kolb-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/kolb-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/kolb-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.