Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:57 AM - Tail feathers for a Kolb (Bob Green)
2. 06:58 AM - FW: Tail feathers for a Kolb (Bob Green)
3. 07:07 AM - Re: Tail feathers for a Kolb (John Hauck)
4. 12:51 PM - Static Port Tuning (Larlaeb)
5. 01:14 PM - Re: Static Port Tuning (Larry Cottrell)
6. 01:21 PM - Re: Static Port Tuning (Larlaeb)
7. 06:06 PM - Re: Static Port Tuning (Dennis Rowe)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Tail feathers for a Kolb |
Kolbers:
I have the tail feathers (rudder, elevators and stabilizers) for a small Kolb of
some
Sort. It has the small "pizza cutter" tail wheel." Anyone that is interested
or might
need these can respond to me using BG285P@yahoo.com. I have attempted to
attach three photos.
B Green
Kolb MKIIIX w/VW engine project.
Message 2
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| Subject: | FW: Tail feathers for a Kolb |
Hope these come through.
Subject: Tail feathers for a Kolb
Kolbers:
I have the tail feathers (rudder, elevators and stabilizers) for a small Ko
lb of some
Sort. It has the small "pizza cutter" tail wheel." Anyone that is interes
ted or might
need these can respond to me using BG285P@yahoo.com. I have attempted to
attach three photos.
B Green
Kolb MKIIIX w/VW engine project.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Tail feathers for a Kolb |
Bob:
Photos didn't come through.
I have good luck sending photos to the List by copying and pasting to the
msg portion of the email.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
Kolbers:
I have the tail feathers (rudder, elevators and stabilizers) for a small
Kolb of some Sort. It has the small "pizza cutter" tail wheel." Anyone
that is interested or might need these can respond to me using
BG285P@yahoo.com. I have attempted to attach three photos.
B Green
Kolb MKIIIX w/VW engine project.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Static Port Tuning |
I was a little surprised that during the first flight after replacing my nose cone
that my MKIII would only do about 50 knots indicated. I really didn't think
that modifying the nose shape should hurt me that much. Checking with GPS
told me I was correct and something was off with my airspeed indication. After
messing around with it a bit and trying several things it became clear that
I had changed the pressure around the static port by modifying the nose. I
was about to change the position or put in another port altogether when I came
across this article. This will probably be old news to some of you but it was
interesting to me. Particularly the part on 'tuning' the static port using
a rubber 'O' ring. I tried it and it works great. Took a couple of tries to
get it positioned right but I now go just as fast (unfortunately not much if any
faster) than I used to.
The link is here:
http://www.ch601.org/resources/pitot-static/pitot.htm
The tuning portion is quoted below and assumes a tube type static port with holes
drilled in the sides.
"If your airspeed reading is slow, it is because the static port is in a slight
high pressure zone. This can be corrected by slipping a small "O" ring over the
end of the static tube ahead of the tiny drilled holes (vents, that is).
Moving the "O" ring aft on the tube (in very small increments) will increase the
airspeed - on the gauge (not for the airplane, amigo . . . sorry). Conversely,
moving the "O" ring forward, away from the ports, will decrease the indicated
airspeed in much the same manner. Very small changes in the "O" ring position
make a noticeable difference in the indications.
What happens is that you are attempting to lower the static pressure "felt" by
the static ports with the "O" ring interrupting the airflow, thereby causing a
slight lowering in air pressure behind (downstream) the ring.
The closer the ring is to the ports, the lower the induced pressure.
If on the other hand the static-tube port happens to be located in an area of low
pressure, moving the ring to a position behind the ports should provide a slight
increase in the pressure felt by the static ports with results opposite
to that described above.
Because a rubber "O" ring will deteriorate, it should be replaced with a metal
ring having identical dimensions after the proper location is determined. A dab
of paint or epoxy should hold it in place."
Thanks,
Allan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440927#440927
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Static Port Tuning |
Your tuning is very interesting. Another thing that you might do is to cut
your pitot tube at about a 45 degree angle. That matched my speed to the
actual speed reading, it also keeps it from being blanked out by angle of
attack.
Larry
On Thu, Apr 16, 2015 at 1:49 PM, Larlaeb <larlaeb@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I was a little surprised that during the first flight after replacing my
> nose cone that my MKIII would only do about 50 knots indicated. I really
> didn't think that modifying the nose shape should hurt me that much.
> Checking with GPS told me I was correct and something was off with my
> airspeed indication. After messing around with it a bit and trying several
> things it became clear that I had changed the pressure around the static
> port by modifying the nose. I was about to change the position or put in
> another port altogether when I came across this article. This will
> probably be old news to some of you but it was interesting to me.
> Particularly the part on 'tuning' the static port using a rubber 'O' ring.
> I tried it and it works great. Took a couple of tries to get it positioned
> right but I now go just as fast (unfortunately not much if any faster) than
> I used to.
>
> The link is here:
>
> http://www.ch601.org/resources/pitot-static/pitot.htm
>
> The tuning portion is quoted below and assumes a tube type static port
> with holes drilled in the sides.
>
> "If your airspeed reading is slow, it is because the static port is in a
> slight high pressure zone. This can be corrected by slipping a small "O"
> ring over the end of the static tube ahead of the tiny drilled holes
> (vents, that is).
>
> Moving the "O" ring aft on the tube (in very small increments) will
> increase the airspeed - on the gauge (not for the airplane, amigo . . .
> sorry). Conversely, moving the "O" ring forward, away from the ports, will
> decrease the indicated airspeed in much the same manner. Very small changes
> in the "O" ring position make a noticeable difference in the indications.
>
> What happens is that you are attempting to lower the static pressure
> "felt" by the static ports with the "O" ring interrupting the airflow,
> thereby causing a slight lowering in air pressure behind (downstream) the
> ring.
>
> The closer the ring is to the ports, the lower the induced pressure.
>
> If on the other hand the static-tube port happens to be located in an area
> of low pressure, moving the ring to a position behind the ports should
> provide a slight increase in the pressure felt by the static ports with
> results opposite to that described above.
>
> Because a rubber "O" ring will deteriorate, it should be replaced with a
> metal ring having identical dimensions after the proper location is
> determined. A dab of paint or epoxy should hold it in place."
>
> Thanks,
> Allan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440927#440927
>
>
--
*If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
address before sending.*
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Static Port Tuning |
Putting the angle on the front of the pitot tube is something I had already read
about from you and others on the forum and I've had that in place for a good
while now. Good stuff.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440932#440932
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Static Port Tuning |
I did a similar thing in wrapping black tape around the static tube just aft of
the static holes to create a higher pressure zone over the static port. Do not
archive
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, Rotax 670,
Leechburg, PA
> On Apr 16, 2015, at 3:49 PM, Larlaeb <larlaeb@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I was a little surprised that during the first flight after replacing my nose
cone that my MKIII would only do about 50 knots indicated. I really didn't
think that modifying the nose shape should hurt me that much. Checking with
GPS told me I was correct and something was off with my airspeed indication.
After messing around with it a bit and trying several things it became clear that
I had changed the pressure around the static port by modifying the nose.
I was about to change the position or put in another port altogether when I came
across this article. This will probably be old news to some of you but it
was interesting to me. Particularly the part on 'tuning' the static port using
a rubber 'O' ring. I tried it and it works great. Took a couple of tries to
get it positioned right but I now go just as fast (unfortunately not much if
any faster) than I used to.
>
> The link is here:
>
> http://www.ch601.org/resources/pitot-static/pitot.htm
>
> The tuning portion is quoted below and assumes a tube type static port with holes
drilled in the sides.
>
> "If your airspeed reading is slow, it is because the static port is in a slight
high pressure zone. This can be corrected by slipping a small "O" ring over
the end of the static tube ahead of the tiny drilled holes (vents, that is).
>
> Moving the "O" ring aft on the tube (in very small increments) will increase
the airspeed - on the gauge (not for the airplane, amigo . . . sorry). Conversely,
moving the "O" ring forward, away from the ports, will decrease the indicated
airspeed in much the same manner. Very small changes in the "O" ring position
make a noticeable difference in the indications.
>
> What happens is that you are attempting to lower the static pressure "felt" by
the static ports with the "O" ring interrupting the airflow, thereby causing
a slight lowering in air pressure behind (downstream) the ring.
>
> The closer the ring is to the ports, the lower the induced pressure.
>
> If on the other hand the static-tube port happens to be located in an area of
low pressure, moving the ring to a position behind the ports should provide a
slight increase in the pressure felt by the static ports with results opposite
to that described above.
>
> Because a rubber "O" ring will deteriorate, it should be replaced with a metal
ring having identical dimensions after the proper location is determined. A
dab of paint or epoxy should hold it in place."
>
> Thanks,
> Allan
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440927#440927
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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