Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:18 AM - Re: Re: Rotax 503 - 300 Hour Rebuild - Advice (Jim Baker)
2. 06:37 AM - Re: Extending instrument panel (Mcabbage)
3. 09:49 AM - Re: Re: Rotax 503 - 300 Hour Rebuild - Advice (Bob Underwood)
4. 10:45 AM - Re: Re: Extending instrument panel (John Hauck)
5. 06:26 PM - Re: Re: Extending instrument panel (Richard Girard)
6. 08:09 PM - Re: Extending instrument panel (George Alexander)
7. 10:05 PM - Re: Re: Extending instrument panel (Larry Cottrell)
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Subject: | Re: Rotax 503 - 300 Hour Rebuild - Advice |
Richard brings up a point that drove me to acquiring a Hirth, specifically the
old 2704. Max rpm for that model is 5400. I normally fly at 3500 to 3900 rpm,
depending on the day and the resultant EGT. Combine that with 624 CC and you get
a powerplant that creates its max torque well down the Rev range and is creating
much less heat in the cylinder per unit time than the higher revving two
stroke.
I, however, run two strokes much differently than others would. The most common
ailment heard is burned oil creating coke on the piston crown, ring lands (especially
Dykes type, which is the type Rotax uses) and exhaust ports. The oil
in the ring lands is cooked and leaves behind the carbon residue from that cooking.
Same for crowns and ports.
EGT is, I believe, my key. I don't run an RPM or an airspeed, simply an EGT that
is sufficiently high to more completely burn the fuel mixed with the oil. Generally
that's in the 1150 to 1200 range. I'll often read an article up to the
point that the "expert" says no one should run below 32 or 20:1 ratios. There
goes the credibility.
On top of that, more oil is not better. Too much oil will cause roller bearing
balls to hydrodynamically skid instead of roll. The amount of lubrication a quality
ball bearing or needle bearing needs is vanishingly small. Consider a wheel
bearing....packed with grease, initially, after awhile the grease retreats
from contact with the balls and ony sporadically comes in contact, usually from
some high G load such as a pothole. Re-pack a really old bearing and watch
what comes out...congealed chunks of lubicant. The wrist pin needle bearings are
the more susceptible to heat damage from lack of lubrication.
So. I run 100:1 oil mix. Doesn't matter which one, I'm not pushing a brand. The
less oil there is, the less there is to leave carbon behind. It's a fine balancing
act to not use too little that the bearings complain. I think I get away
with it because my larger piston surface area more readily sheds heat via cylinder
wall contact, less heat per unit time, and the cooling of the underside
of the piston by the incoming charge, the oil doesn't have a chance to coke and
leave deposits behind. That, and the fact that I don't have a Dykes top ring.
Dykes are great at more complete cylinder sealing because of the larger ring/cylinder
wall contact area but it also makes them hotter because of that contact.
After 600 hours, no decarbon needed. Plugs have been replaced once, more from curiosity
than anything else. They looked just like four stroke plugs, just a light
tan and no coking up into the insulator well.
Maybe I'm spouting crap. My Gordon Jennings handbook, the SAE papers I've read
have confirmed, at least in my mind, what I've just posted....but as I said, may
be crap. Or not.
Jim Baker
405 426 5377
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Pike <thegreybaron@charter.net>
Sent: Sat, 05 Mar 2016 22:48
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 503 - 300 Hour Rebuild - Advice
I think no one wants to reply because no one wants to give you bad advice. I currently
have 270 hours on my 582, and plan to run it to 450 hours. Given my age,
and the number of hours I fly each year, that will probably be sufficient for
my aviating future.
BUT
I consistently try and run it at 5,400 rpm, which keeps the centrifugal load on
the crank bearings down, and should extend the crank life.
Should. Hmm..
I guess in a another few years I'll find out if that was a good idea.
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Would you consider yourself to be a good person?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWcDXT6pH7A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453450#453450
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Subject: | Re: Extending instrument panel |
Thank you John. I did contact seller from the ad but I think he was busy . Maybe
new owner could help some.
Another question, when replacing ruder and elevater cables wher is the best source
for materials?
Thanks
--------
2007 Firestar 2 503 N203SD
Moster 185 flattop PPG/Sky K2 Paraglider
Trike Buggy Soaring Trike & Northwing Stratus XP
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453460#453460
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Subject: | Re: Rotax 503 - 300 Hour Rebuild - Advice |
Hi JimThanks for the info. I purchased a recently rebuilt 582 and the previ
ous owner said that the man who rebuilt the engine the first time told him
to fun it 100 to 1 and not decarbon it. It was overhauled with about 800 ho
urs on it and was in great condition with minimal parts replaced. Interesti
ng isn't it.
Bob
On Sunday, March 6, 2016 9:12 AM, Jim Baker <jimbaker@npacc.net> wrote:
Richard brings up a point that drove me to acquiring a Hirth, specifically
the old 2704. Max rpm for that model is 5400. I normally fly at 3500 to 390
0 rpm, depending on the day and the resultant EGT. Combine that with 624 CC
and you get a powerplant that creates its max torque well down the Rev ran
ge and is creating much less heat in the cylinder per unit time than the hi
gher revving two stroke.
I, however,=C2- run two strokes much differently than others would. The m
ost common ailment heard is burned oil creating coke on the piston crown, r
ing lands (especially Dykes type, which is the type Rotax uses) and exhaust
ports. The oil in the ring lands is cooked and leaves behind=C2- the car
bon residue from that cooking. Same for crowns and ports.
EGT is, I believe, my key. I don't run an RPM or an airspeed, simply an EGT
that is sufficiently high to more completely burn the fuel mixed with the
oil. Generally that's in the 1150 to 1200 range. I'll often read an article
up to the point that the "expert" says no one should run below 32 or 20:1
ratios. There goes the credibility.
On top of that, more oil is not better. Too much oil will cause roller bear
ing balls to hydrodynamically skid instead of roll. The amount of lubricati
on a quality ball bearing or needle bearing needs is vanishingly small. Con
sider a wheel bearing....packed with grease, initially, after awhile the gr
ease retreats from contact with the balls and ony sporadically comes in con
tact, usually from some high G load such as a pothole. Re-pack a really old
bearing and watch what comes out...congealed chunks of lubicant. The wrist
pin needle bearings are the more susceptible to heat damage from lack of l
ubrication.
So. I run 100:1 oil mix. Doesn't matter which one, I'm not pushing a brand.
The less oil there is, the less there is to leave carbon behind. It's a fi
ne balancing act to not use too little that the bearings complain. I think
I get away with it because my larger piston surface area more readily sheds
heat via cylinder wall contact, less heat per unit time, and the cooling o
f the underside of the piston by the incoming charge, the oil doesn't have
a chance to coke and leave deposits behind. That, and the fact that I don't
have a Dykes top ring. Dykes are great at more complete cylinder sealing b
ecause of the larger ring/cylinder wall contact area but it also makes them
hotter because of that contact.
After 600 hours, no decarbon needed. Plugs have been replaced once, more fr
om curiosity than anything else. They looked just like four stroke plugs, j
ust a light tan and no coking up into the insulator well.
Maybe I'm spouting crap. My Gordon Jennings handbook, the SAE papers I've r
ead have confirmed, at least in my mind, what I've just posted....but as I
said, may be crap. Or not.
Jim Baker
405 426 5377
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Pike <thegreybaron@charter.net>
Sent: Sat, 05 Mar 2016 22:48
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 503 - 300 Hour Rebuild - Advice
I think no one wants to reply because no one wants to give you bad advice.
I currently have 270 hours on my 582, and plan to run it to 450 hours. Give
n my age, and the number of hours I fly each year, that will probably be su
fficient for my aviating future.
BUT
I consistently try and run it at 5,400 rpm, which keeps the centrifugal loa
d on the crank bearings down, and should extend the crank life.
Should. Hmm..
I guess in a another few years I'll find out if that was a good idea.
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Would you consider yourself to be a good person?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWcDXT6pH7A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453450#453450
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
S -
-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Extending instrument panel |
I recommend Kolb Aircraft Company.
Phone (606) 862-9692
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mcabbage
Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2016 8:23 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Extending instrument panel
Thank you John. I did contact seller from the ad but I think he was busy .
Maybe new owner could help some.
Another question, when replacing ruder and elevater cables wher is the best
source for materials?
Thanks
--------
2007 Firestar 2 503 N203SD
Moster 185 flattop PPG/Sky K2 Paraglider Trike Buggy Soaring Trike &
Northwing Stratus XP
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453460#453460
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Extending instrument panel |
For control cable, first get the proper mil spec cable, second read the
section on cable in AC 43-13 1B. I know there will be a lot of carping
about recommending covered cable but you owe it to yourself to read what
FAA certified mechanics read when they don't have a manufacturer's spec to
go by. Covered cable, one properly swaged Nico sleeve is the recommendation
.
Extending your panel, consider doing it with vibration dampers. You can get
them from McMaster Carr as well as the specs for allowable shear loads so
you can design a panel that will last.
Rick Girard
On Sun, Mar 6, 2016 at 8:22 AM, Mcabbage <Mc@americanbuilding.com> wrote:
>
> Thank you John. I did contact seller from the ad but I think he was busy
.
> Maybe new owner could help some.
>
> Another question, when replacing ruder and elevater cables wher is the
> best source for materials?
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> 2007 Firestar 2 503 N203SD
> Moster 185 flattop PPG/Sky K2 Paraglider
> Trike Buggy Soaring Trike & Northwing Stratus XP
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453460#453460
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
--
=9CBlessed are the cracked, for they shall let in the light.=9D
Groucho Marx
<http://www.goodreads.com/author/show/43244.Groucho_Marx>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Extending instrument panel |
Mcabbage wrote:
> I would like to extend my fs2 Inst. panel
>
> .S N I P .
>
> Mike
Being one who must remain conscious of leg room, I would be careful how deep you
make your extension and/or the top to bottom measurement. Too much in either
of these dimensions will cut down that leg room. Looking at the inside shot
of the pictures you posted, there's not much room between the pilot's shins and
the bottom edge of the extension.
As Beauford would say.... "Worth what you paid fer it.."
--------
George Alexander
FS II R503 N709FS
http://www.oh2fly.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453484#453484
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Extending instrument panel |
Looking at the inside shot of the pictures you posted, there's not much
room between the pilot's shins and the bottom edge of the extension.
I am not sure how big you are, but let me tell you how I get into my plane.
I am 6 feet- 235 lbs. I sit backwards on my seat, lift my left leg over the
stick, and down onto the rudder pedals. I of course reverse this process to
get out of the plane. My plane has longer gear legs, so I had to change the
method of entering the cockpit. With the smaller gear legs, One can lift up
the wind screen- stick the left leg in, then put your butt on the seat.
Much like what you do to get into a sports car. These are only ways to get
in that I have found. Smaller younger pilots will be able to do things that
I probably cannot.
The only thing on my cockpit that I need to do anything with is adjust the
altimeter. I do that on the ground. The rest of the controls that I need-
tank selection- fuel pump, strobe, ignition switch are all located in
various spots that are within reach.
Primarily what I am saying is that you can position every thing that you
need in spots that allow you to reach them while seated and flying. It just
takes some thinking on your part. However you are the one that will be
flying it, your choice, but give it some serious thought. I have a small
center console in front of the stick that holds my radio, all my switches-
plug ins for the intercom. HAC man system on the left side by the throttle,
fuel selector switches on the gusset to the left of my seat. Take a poll
and see how many have moved their console out.
Larry
Larry
On Sun, Mar 6, 2016 at 9:06 PM, George Alexander <gtalexander@att.net>
wrote:
>
>
> Mcabbage wrote:
> > I would like to extend my fs2 Inst. panel
> >
> > .S N I P .
> >
> > Mike
>
>
> Being one who must remain conscious of leg room, I would be careful how
> deep you make your extension and/or the top to bottom measurement. Too
> much in either of these dimensions will cut down that leg room. Looking at
> the inside shot of the pictures you posted, there's not much room between
> the pilot's shins and the bottom edge of the extension.
>
> As Beauford would say.... "Worth what you paid fer it.."
>
> --------
> George Alexander
> FS II R503 N709FS
> http://www.oh2fly.net
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453484#453484
>
>
--
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*If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
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