Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:10 PM - 2 stroke rectifier/regulator ID & wire ID (Charlie England)
2. 05:38 PM - Re: faa forms (japowell)
3. 08:19 PM - Re: 2 stroke rectifier/regulator ID & wire ID (Larry Cottrell)
4. 08:30 PM - Re: 2 stroke rectifier/regulator ID & wire ID (Larry Cottrell)
5. 09:13 PM - Re: 2 stroke rectifier/regulator ID & wire ID (Charlie England)
Message 1
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| Subject: | 2 stroke rectifier/regulator ID & wire ID |
Hi guys,
I'm trying to add a rectifier/regulator to my old point-ignition 503, &
need some regulator pinout verification.
I bought a used '3 phase' regulator from an ebay vendor, but when it
arrived, it was almost certainly an old single phase unit, with 4 wires &
no heat sink fins. It had all the characteristics described in a CPS
document about Rotax charging systems; AC output unless it was connected to
a big battery or a load.
The seller agreed to send me another regulator, which physically looks like
the typical 3 phase unit, but has 2 yellow, one brown, one black, and one
white/red stripe wires. Brand is Mitsubishi; label on the side starts with
'TS10BR??' (last tow characters unreadable), then under it, 'C99', which I
assume is a date code. Molded into the mounting flange are: 'TS10' and
under that, 'BRiK-L' with no dot over the 'i'; just a half height vertical
line.
I'm betting on the 2 yellows for AC from the alternator. But the CPS
document for the 264-870 shows black as DC+ to the load (seems suspicious,
for a DC circuit), a 3rd yellow as 'not connected' and no color at all for
ground.
I fed the 2 yellows 12V DC from a battery, and got +12V on the white/red
wire, referenced to either the black wire, or the brown wire. No wire is
common to the metal case. So, it seems reasonable to assume that wh/red is
positive and black is ground.
Before I actually hook this thing to the alternator and a load, can anyone
verify that I've properly ID'd the wires?
Thanks,
Charlie
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Message 2
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mojavjoe
Sorry it's taken so long to get back to you. The forms you need
are FAA form 8130-6, sections I, II, and II. Form 8130-12 Sections I, II,
and II and notarized in Section IV. Have AC form 8050-3 in your
possession. Enclose a 3 D drawing of the plane. Have W & B completed
and enclose a copy with the application. Have a construction log and make
sure all markings are done per part 45. Enclose a program letter asking for
an inspection.
Hope this helps,
--------
Jim P
WAR EAGLE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=481496#481496
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: 2 stroke rectifier/regulator ID & wire ID |
Is this what you are looking for?
Larry
On Sun, Jul 8, 2018 at 4:10 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Hi guys,
>
> I'm trying to add a rectifier/regulator to my old point-ignition 503, &
> need some regulator pinout verification.
>
> I bought a used '3 phase' regulator from an ebay vendor, but when it
> arrived, it was almost certainly an old single phase unit, with 4 wires &
> no heat sink fins. It had all the characteristics described in a CPS
> document about Rotax charging systems; AC output unless it was connected to
> a big battery or a load.
>
> The seller agreed to send me another regulator, which physically looks
> like the typical 3 phase unit, but has 2 yellow, one brown, one black, and
> one white/red stripe wires. Brand is Mitsubishi; label on the side starts
> with 'TS10BR??' (last tow characters unreadable), then under it, 'C99',
> which I assume is a date code. Molded into the mounting flange are: 'TS10'
> and under that, 'BRiK-L' with no dot over the 'i'; just a half height
> vertical line.
>
> I'm betting on the 2 yellows for AC from the alternator. But the CPS
> document for the 264-870 shows black as DC+ to the load (seems suspicious,
> for a DC circuit), a 3rd yellow as 'not connected' and no color at all for
> ground.
>
> I fed the 2 yellows 12V DC from a battery, and got +12V on the white/red
> wire, referenced to either the black wire, or the brown wire. No wire is
> common to the metal case. So, it seems reasonable to assume that wh/red is
> positive and black is ground.
>
> Before I actually hook this thing to the alternator and a load, can anyone
> verify that I've properly ID'd the wires?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
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>
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: 2 stroke rectifier/regulator ID & wire ID |
Here is another page of the use.
On Sun, Jul 8, 2018 at 4:10 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Hi guys,
>
> I'm trying to add a rectifier/regulator to my old point-ignition 503, &
> need some regulator pinout verification.
>
> I bought a used '3 phase' regulator from an ebay vendor, but when it
> arrived, it was almost certainly an old single phase unit, with 4 wires &
> no heat sink fins. It had all the characteristics described in a CPS
> document about Rotax charging systems; AC output unless it was connected to
> a big battery or a load.
>
> The seller agreed to send me another regulator, which physically looks
> like the typical 3 phase unit, but has 2 yellow, one brown, one black, and
> one white/red stripe wires. Brand is Mitsubishi; label on the side starts
> with 'TS10BR??' (last tow characters unreadable), then under it, 'C99',
> which I assume is a date code. Molded into the mounting flange are: 'TS10'
> and under that, 'BRiK-L' with no dot over the 'i'; just a half height
> vertical line.
>
> I'm betting on the 2 yellows for AC from the alternator. But the CPS
> document for the 264-870 shows black as DC+ to the load (seems suspicious,
> for a DC circuit), a 3rd yellow as 'not connected' and no color at all for
> ground.
>
> I fed the 2 yellows 12V DC from a battery, and got +12V on the white/red
> wire, referenced to either the black wire, or the brown wire. No wire is
> common to the metal case. So, it seems reasonable to assume that wh/red is
> positive and black is ground.
>
> Before I actually hook this thing to the alternator and a load, can anyone
> verify that I've properly ID'd the wires?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link>
> <#m_-8104185725264075719_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
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others.*
*If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
address before sending.*
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: 2 stroke rectifier/regulator ID & wire ID |
Sorry; no=2E I consulted this doc:
http://m=2Ecps-parts=2Ecom/cps/pdf/Part4
9=2Epdf
The 1st model they sent matched the non-heatsink version in both ap
pearance and performance=2E The 2nd looks like the heatsink version, but wi
re colors are different=2E I was just hoping someone had used the Misubishi
brand regulator & could verify wire colors=2E
Thanks,
=81=A3Charlie
=8B
On Jul 8, 2018, 10:34 PM, at 10:34 PM, Larry Cottrell <lcottrell
1020@gmail=2Ecom> wrote:
>Here is another page of the use=2E
>
>On Sun, Jul
8, 2018 at 4:10 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail=2Ecom>
>wrote:
>
>>
Hi guys,
>>
>> I'm trying to add a rectifier/regulator to my old point-igni
tion 503,
>&
>> need some regulator pinout verification=2E
>>
>> I bought a
used '3 phase' regulator from an ebay vendor, but when it
>> arrived, it w
as almost certainly an old single phase unit, with 4
>wires &
>> no heat si
nk fins=2E It had all the characteristics described in a CPS
>> document ab
out Rotax charging systems; AC output unless it was
>connected to
>> a big
battery or a load=2E
>>
>> The seller agreed to send me another regulator,
which physically
>looks
>> like the typical 3 phase unit, but has 2 yellow,
one brown, one
>black, and
>> one white/red stripe wires=2E Brand is Mitsu
bishi; label on the side
>starts
>> with 'TS10BR??' (last tow characters un
readable), then under it,
>'C99',
>> which I assume is a date code=2E Molde
d into the mounting flange are:
>'TS10'
>> and under that, 'BRiK-L' with no
dot over the 'i'; just a half height
>> vertical line=2E
>>
>> I'm betting
on the 2 yellows for AC from the alternator=2E But the CPS
>> document for
the 264-870 shows black as DC+ to the load (seems
>suspicious,
>> for a D
C circuit), a 3rd yellow as 'not connected' and no color at
>all for
>> gro
und=2E
>>
>> I fed the 2 yellows 12V DC from a battery, and got +12V on the
>white/red
>> wire, referenced to either the black wire, or the brown wire
=2E No wire
>is
>> common to the metal case=2E So, it seems reasonable to a
ssume that
>wh/red is
>> positive and black is ground=2E
>>
>> Before I act
ually hook this thing to the alternator and a load, can
>anyone
>> verify t
hat I've properly ID'd the wires?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>>
>>
><ht
tps://www=2Eavast=2Ecom/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_
campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon>
>Virus-free=2E
>> www=2Eavast=2Ecom
>>
><https://www=2Eavast=2Ecom/sig-email?utm_medium=
email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_
term=link>
>> <#m_-8104185725264075719_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FD
F2>
>>
>
>
>--
>*The older I get, the less tolerant I am of those who ar
e intolerant of
>others=2E*
>
>*If you forward this email, or any part of i
t, please remove my email
>address before sending=2E*
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