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1. 08:31 AM - Re: Different tail feathers for a Twinstar MK II?? (Jerry-TS-MkII)
2. 08:49 AM - Re: Re: Different tail feathers for a Twinstar MK II?? (Customer Support)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Different tail feathers for a Twinstar MK II?? |
Thanks for the replies. My EAA involvement, and GA include rebuilding 3 AC that
were BER, work on several different home-builts, successful, beneficial modifications
to ultra-lights.. or designing, building and lofting a 32' steel truss
on my hanger, all solo, no crane, 854 lbs. LOTS of people have designed complete
airplanes, built their own, or modified other designs. I DO appreciate
Homer as one of those people. That doesn't prevent or discourage me from going
forward. Each of his designs were built upon his previous efforts, good ones
and bad. To hear of "springs" to keep a rudder or elevator from flutter, or
to trim in flight, IS the scary part of this, for me. Springs add loads and
wear.. and things do break. If a rudder cable breaks, you can still fly the
plane.. UNLESS it progresses into genuine flutter, and THAT may well REMOVE the
whole tail group, from the plane, in flight. THAT is not good. Inadvertent
modifications are the ones to avoid.
I remember reaching into a Christian Eagle that came into BMG when I was working
avionics. Moving the stick took less effort than my computer mouse. I know
a MKII is not a "precision" AC by design, but there is no reason why control
surfaces shouldn't be balanced, and easy to operate.. and without fear of flutter.
It's killed a lot of people, in MANY different aircraft. Some owners have
added trim tabs.. some are only ground adjustable. And most all of those..
to me.. look like ADD-ONS! Being attached to thin ribs, or the T/E.. seems marginal
to me. If I add two servos (pitch and yaw).. w/metal gears, water-proof..
and the surfaces are balanced, it could be flown with the trims.. if something
else failed. Redundancy is a good thing.
And while it is a 2 place AC... I'll probably set it up for solo flight. With
a 503, and less runway than I prefer, that seems to be the best option. But
it also means if I add a small amount of weight to the tail (IF that is required)..
I'll have the option to re-balance it, without a significant performance
penalty.. probably with larger "tundra type" tires and good brakes.
While not 8' beds, I do have a stomp shear, and a sheet metal break, so fabricating
"flanged ribs" versus those made from tubing, is a option not every AC owner
has available. This type of rib is MUCH MORE the accepted AC form, but not
as easy to produce, as cut-mash-bend-drill aluminum tubing ribs.
I understand that some people here on the group, think of Homer's creations as
sacred. Others think of them as kits.. with exact, "follow the instructions"
and assemble, without previous AC experience. And both of those aspects came
from the ultra-light movement, of simple, easy to build, relatively inexpensive
aircraft. There is likely a much smaller percentage of Kolb List members who
are truly Experimental aircraft builders (in the original sense). But even
many of those very early EXPs, might have taken the wings from a GA AC to be put
onto a scratch built fuse, etc. Doing so, should not be done, but within each
persons desires, expertise, and research.
Due diligence: action that is considered reasonable for people to be expected to
take in order to keep themselves or others and their property safe. If anyone
wishes to communicate further, please send me a PM.. and please don't quote
my posts. I don't appreciate my email address being posted. But I do welcome
input from any who are like minded, or have done similar work. Thanks!! Jerry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=493302#493302
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Different tail feathers for a Twinstar MK II?? |
=C2- Jerry- Fly it before you decide to modify it.=C2- Every Kolb desi
gn is safe and stable as designed.=C2- John Hauck and Richard Pike have m
any, many years of experience in flying, building, and modifying various ve
rsions of Kolbs.=C2- For ultra light weight, Jack Hart has the most caref
ully documented work around.=C2- Don't play with more than one thing at a
time, either.=C2- We had somebody recently who had a very bad experience
with that, engineering his way into problems, instead of out of them.=C2
-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2- Bill Sullivan
On Friday, November 22, 2019, 11:31:54 AM EST, Jerry-TS-MkII <1957grnch
ev@bluemarble.net> wrote:
et>
Thanks for the replies.=C2- My EAA involvement, and GA include rebuilding
3 AC that were BER, work on several different home-builts, successful, ben
eficial modifications to ultra-lights.. or designing, building and lofting
a 32' steel truss on my hanger, all solo, no crane, 854 lbs.=C2- LOTS of
people have designed complete airplanes, built their own, or modified other
designs.=C2- I DO appreciate Homer as one of those people.=C2- That do
esn't prevent or discourage me from going forward.=C2- Each of his design
s were built upon his previous efforts, good ones and bad.=C2- To hear of
"springs" to keep a rudder or elevator from flutter, or to trim in flight,
IS the scary part of this, for me.=C2- Springs add loads and wear.. and
things do break.=C2- If a rudder cable breaks, you can still fly the plan
e.. UNLESS it progresses into genuine flutter, and THAT may well REMOVE the
whole tail group, from the plane, in flight.=C2- THAT is not good.=C2-
Inadvertent modifications are the ones to avoid.
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