Today's Message Index:
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1. 03:45 AM - Re: Water and alcohol (Ducati SS)
2. 05:08 AM - Re: Water and alcohol (Richard Pike)
3. 06:17 AM - Re: Water and alcohol (Ducati SS)
4. 07:18 AM - Re: Re: Water and alcohol (william sullivan)
5. 07:53 AM - Re: Re: Water and alcohol (B Young)
6. 11:25 AM - Re: Re: Water and alcohol (Charlie England)
7. 04:59 PM - Re: Water and alcohol (Richard Pike)
8. 09:00 PM - Re: wing transport suggestions (jaydub)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Water and alcohol |
It is true that most equipment is now ethanol tolerant. But one important difference
between autos and airplanes it that auto systems are basically closed. You
may notice a faint motor running sound after turning off your car, that is
the EVAP self test proving the system is not leaking. Leave the gas cap loose
and you will get a warning light. So I don't think moisture absorption is likely
to be a problem on modern cars. Our aircraft are vented direct to the atmosphere.
Tank is constantly breathing as ambient temp. changes. This is a huge problem
with pre EVAP motorcycles as nearly all developed rust in the tank.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=494829#494829
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Water and alcohol |
If you have an epoxy based fuel tank like I do, ethanol in your gas will ruin it.
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kolb Firefly Part 103 legal
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Forgiving is tough, being forgiven is wonderful, and God's grace really is amazing.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=494832#494832
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Water and alcohol |
I believe many boat owners found that out the hard way. For those who have flown
certified GA airplanes it is not uncommon to find some water during the pre
flight. My Cessna had vented caps, bottom of the tanks directly below the caps
had a small spot of corrosion. With 100LL the water simply dropped to the sump
but if there had been alcohol in the fuel it would be a different story. We
have a chain of stations locally that all have Ethanol free available. I put it
in everything I own.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=494833#494833
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Water and alcohol |
I will pass that along, too. Thanks.
On Sunday, February 16, 2020, 08:08:41 AM EST, Richard Pike <thegreyba
ron@charter.net> wrote:
If you have an epoxy based fuel tank like I do, ethanol in your gas will ru
in it.
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kolb Firefly Part 103 legal
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Forgiving is tough, being forgiven is wonderful, and God's grace really is
amazing.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=494832#494832
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
S -
WIKI -
-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Water and alcohol |
>
>
> If you have an epoxy based fuel tank like I do, ethanol in your gas will
> ruin it.
There are slosh sealers that can be poured in the tank, roll the tank so
all surfaces are covered, pour the excess out, let it cure. Its supposed
to stop contact between tank and fuel. Problem solved.
Some sealers are good for mogas, another for avgas. And some for both.
My only experience is with a Ford model t tank. Trying to keep rust under
control. I used Por 15. It said on the label that it was good for all
fuel types. First step was a cleaner, then an etcher ( probably only
needed for metal tanks) then the sealer.
Boyd Young
Kolb mkiii & Ford model T
Do not archive
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Water and alcohol |
On 2/16/2020 9:52 AM, B Young wrote:
>
>
> If you have an epoxy based fuel tank like I do, ethanol in your
> gas will ruin it.
>
>
> There are slosh sealers that can be poured in the tank, roll the tank
> so all surfaces are covered, pour the excess out, let it cure. Its
> supposed to stop contact between tank and fuel. Problem solved.
>
> Some sealers are good for mogas, another for avgas. And some for both.
>
> My only experience is with a Ford model t tank. Trying to keep rust
> under control. I used Por 15. It said on the label that it was good
> for all fuel types. First step was a cleaner, then an etcher (
> probably only needed for metal tanks) then the sealer.
>
> Boyd Young
> Kolb mkiii & Ford model T
>
> Do not archive
>
>
For *general* info:
The RVx guys used to us a sloshing sealant after sealing with regular
'proseal' (polysulfide) on the joints & rivets (aluminum tanks). Kind of
a 'belt & suspenders' thing, back in the day. A lot (meaning just about
all) of them had problems with the sloshing compound coming loose in
fragments, then sheets. If you've ever seen latex paint come off poorly
prepped surfaces, that's what it looks like. Significant danger of a
piece wrapping around the fuel pickup.
My *opinion* about the cause of the above is that while most builders
were careful to clean & scuff up the mating areas of the aluminum, they
likely didn't clean/scuff the broad expanses of aluminum between the
joints, and the slosh couldn't get a good grip on the surfaces. I know
that was the case in the RV4 I owned. If anyone is considering 'slosh'
in a metal tank, especially an aluminum tank, they should be aware of
the potential pitfalls. My *opinion* (again) is that if every surface
inside the tank is prepped properly, then slosh wouldn't be a problem.
But I have not tested that theory.
The above might not apply to a fiberglass tank. Or, it might.
It might not apply to other formulations of 'slosh'. Or, it might.
Just be aware, if you're...I was going to say, 'in the air', but that's
just too cheesy. Anyway, be careful.
Charlie
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Water and alcohol |
byoungplumbing(at)gmail.c wrote:
>
>
> There are slosh sealers that can be poured in the tank, roll the tank so all
surfaces are covered, pour the excess out, let it cure. Its supposed to stop contact
between tank and fuel. Problem solved.
>
> Boyd Young
> Kolb mkiii & Ford model T
>
>
> Do not archive
If your tank is all finished and you already have the filter strainers on the end
of the interior fuel pickup tubes, that's not really an option: makes the engine
run WAY too lean....
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kolb Firefly Part 103 legal
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Forgiving is tough, being forgiven is wonderful, and God's grace really is amazing.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=494842#494842
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: wing transport suggestions |
The trip went well. We tried a few ways but we came up with what we thought would
work, and it successfully did.
I had 6 bunkbed mattresses and some sheet styrofoam. No damage whatsoever. A few
pix of how we did it in case others coming behind want to see what worked for
me. 2 folded mattresses on the floor as in the pic. Next a wing with styrofoam
along front of trailer and passenger side as well as between the attached
aileron and wing. 2 more mattresses then the next wing and styrofoam. Last,
2 more matresses with the boom/tail on top then all strapped down. We compressed
it all together with the straps distributing the load due to 4 straps.
A small strap was placed over the rudder to keep it from flapping. It worked great.
It traveled just fine over a few rough roads in Montana and WY, just over 420 miles.
The engine, prop, nose pod, instruments, etc all rode in the van.
Now I need a FS2 fuselage to go with it and let the fun begin.
Jay
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