Today's Message Index:
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1. 04:56 AM - Re: Fuel Mixture (sjbeaver)
2. 08:25 AM - Re: Fuel Mixture ()
3. 09:37 AM - Re: Fuel Mixture (sjbeaver)
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Mixture |
Hi Mike,
I'm afraid I know absolutely nothing about the reversing unit. It is not
included in any of the manuals I have; operation, installation or
overhaul.
It is common practice to replace the ignition harness and spark plugs.
Pavel developed a modification that uses NGK plugs and caps with modern
stainless steel cored wire. People do this not because the existing
harness is a source of problems (as far as I know) but because the 12mm
PAL spark plugs are hard to find and expensive. I have converted quite a
number of engines to NGK with excellent results and at less than US$2
each for the plugs it is an inexpensive mod. If replacement plugs are
not a concern, I would leave it alone, however.
There is a modification that can be done to the magneto mounting boss
that allows an o-ring to be installed which in turn prevents oil
draining into the magneto. I have not done this partly because it
requires machining and partly because I have never had a problem with
the mags. At annual inspection time I remove the caps and wipe clean any
oil mist I find, but I don't often find much. If your engine has been
idle for a long time it might be worth checking the inside of the mags
for oil and while you are there, cleaning and gapping the contacts.
Steve
--
Stephen Beaver
Tel: 614-937 4189
> On Aug 19, 2020, at 1:01 AM, <mike@vision499.com> <mike@vision499.com>
wrote:
>
> Hello Steve,
>
> Thanks you so very much for the detailed reply, I really appreciate
it. I did not make myself very clear, I have the fuel pump with the
adjustment nut at the rear and not the pump with the =9Cpizza
slice=9D but judging from what you said I don=99t think it
will make a difference.
>
> I will follow your testing procedure and let you know what happens
>
> I just wanted some confirmation that it is safe to run the engine even
though it is =9Cpopping=9D
>
> I have the propeller with reverse thrust, under the reverse thrust
control module there is what appears to be a solenoid and an oil leak
developed at the solenoid seal that was due to an =9Co=9D
ring that had lost all elasticity. I was fearful that there may be more
instances of this. Can you suggest anything else that I should replace
or renew.
>
> Do you think that I could remove the reverse thrust module completely
and connect directly from the governor to the hub?
>
> I have met with Pavel and he welded up my engine mount for me but have
not had contact for a few years.
>
> I have also heard that the magneto seals and harnesses are not good
quality and should be replaced and would appreciate your opinion
>
> Thanks again
>
> Mike
>
>
> From: owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com>
<owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com>> On Behalf Of sjbeaver
> Sent: August 18, 2020 10:00 AM
> To: Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list@matronics.com
<mailto:lom-list@matronics.com>>
> Subject: Re: Lom-List: Fuel Mixture
>
> Mike.
>
> There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about
and I would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and
very precise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain
plug on the underside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain
out. If sitting for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump
and interfere with the mixture.
>
> Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not
implying that there is any part of the manual you have not digested.
Just making sure I don't omit anything :)
>
> First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . . )
is the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American
engines seem to think that the engine should always be operated at the
most rich setting available. That is just not the case with the LOM and
doing so so will have serval rather bad consequences.
>
> Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of
the fuel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is
a small pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate
shaped like a pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings.
Something like +3, +2, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top.
Adjust your mixture control mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases
of operation below 10,000') corresponds to the pointer being aligned
with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N' inside a circle. Now you know the
mixture is set exactly as it should be. Again - do not operate the
engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will disable the automatic
mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the cylinder walls
and other bad things.
>
> Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period. When
the oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the appropriate
precautions run the engine at full power (super charger engaged) Switch
from both to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go back to both, then
magneto 2. Again, what RPM drop do you see? I would expect a drop in the
25-35 RPM area. Anything other than that suggests your ignition timing
is a little out. It is a simple matter to loosen the magneto clamps and
rotate the mags a little until the 25-35 RPM drop is observed. Why not
just time the mags with a buzz box in the traditional manner? For two
reasons: 1) This is how the manual says to do it and 2) these magnetos
have automatic advance and retard systems so static timing means almost
nothing.
>
> How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can
do some testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a
cruise sort of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't
matter if the super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and
observe the exhaust pipes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray
(almost white) or a nice mid gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want
the slate color.
>
> If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.
>
> Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the engine
in the dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running engine. At
medium power settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with yellow to
indicate the ideal running conditions.
>
> Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who
now resides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM
factory trained technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin
airframes)
>
> Steve
> --
> Stephen Beaver
> Tel: 614-937 4189
>
>
>
>
>> On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike@vision499.com
<mailto:mike@vision499.com>> <mike@vision499.com
<mailto:mike@vision499.com>> wrote:
>>
>> I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and
automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003
and has had
>> Zero hours since
>>
>> I started the motor recently and there are loud =9Cpops=9D
out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running
lean.
>>
>> Fuel pressure is good
>>
>> I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask
if there is something else I should check for first.
>>
>> Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would have
deteriorated. =46rom the drawing I cannot see if there are any seals
that may need replacing.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Mike Pienaar
>> mike@vision499.com <mailto:ike@vision499.com>
>> Home: +1 250-999-8121
>> Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554
>> 1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2
>>
>>
>>
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_
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Message 2
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Thanks again Steve,
Does the spark plug conversion require new threads in the cylinder head? W
ill try and get hold of Pavel and see about the harness replacement later.
Where are you situated?
Thanks and keep well
Mike
From: owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com <owner-lom-list-server@matronics.
com> On Behalf Of sjbeaver
Sent: August 19, 2020 4:56 AM
Subject: Re: Lom-List: Fuel Mixture
Hi Mike,
I'm afraid I know absolutely nothing about the reversing unit. It is not in
cluded in any of the manuals I have; operation, installation or overhaul.
It is common practice to replace the ignition harness and spark plugs. Pave
l developed a modification that uses NGK plugs and caps with modern stainle
ss steel cored wire. People do this not because the existing harness is a s
ource of problems (as far as I know) but because the 12mm PAL spark plugs a
re hard to find and expensive. I have converted quite a number of engines t
o NGK with excellent results and at less than US$2 each for the plugs it is
an inexpensive mod. If replacement plugs are not a concern, I would leave
it alone, however.
There is a modification that can be done to the magneto mounting boss that
allows an o-ring to be installed which in turn prevents oil draining into t
he magneto. I have not done this partly because it requires machining and p
artly because I have never had a problem with the mags. At annual inspectio
n time I remove the caps and wipe clean any oil mist I find, but I don't of
ten find much. If your engine has been idle for a long time it might be wor
th checking the inside of the mags for oil and while you are there, cleanin
g and gapping the contacts.
Steve
--
Stephen Beaver
Tel: 614-937 4189
On Aug 19, 2020, at 1:01 AM, <mike@vision499.com <mailto:mike@vision499.com
> > <mike@vision499.com <mailto:mike@vision499.com> > wrote:
Hello Steve,
Thanks you so very much for the detailed reply, I really appreciate it. I d
id not make myself very clear, I have the fuel pump with the adjustment nut
at the rear and not the pump with the =9Cpizza slice=9D but ju
dging from what you said I don=99t think it will make a difference.
I will follow your testing procedure and let you know what happens
I just wanted some confirmation that it is safe to run the engine even thou
gh it is =9Cpopping=9D
I have the propeller with reverse thrust, under the reverse thrust control
module there is what appears to be a solenoid and an oil leak developed at
the solenoid seal that was due to an =9Co=9D ring that had lost
all elasticity. I was fearful that there may be more instances of this. Ca
n you suggest anything else that I should replace or renew.
Do you think that I could remove the reverse thrust module completely and c
onnect directly from the governor to the hub?
I have met with Pavel and he welded up my engine mount for me but have not
had contact for a few years.
I have also heard that the magneto seals and harnesses are not good quality
and should be replaced and would appreciate your opinion
Thanks again
Mike
From: owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com <mailto:owner-lom-list-server@mat
ronics.com> <owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com <mailto:owner-lom-list-se
rver@matronics.com> > On Behalf Of sjbeaver
Sent: August 18, 2020 10:00 AM
cs.com> >
Subject: Re: Lom-List: Fuel Mixture
Mike.
There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about and I
would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and very prec
ise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain plug on the u
nderside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain out. If sitting
for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump and interfere with t
he mixture.
Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not implyi
ng that there is any part of the manual you have not digested. Just making
sure I don't omit anything :)
First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . . ) is
the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American engines see
m to think that the engine should always be operated at the most rich setti
ng available. That is just not the case with the LOM and doing so so will h
ave serval rather bad consequences.
Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of the f
uel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is a small
pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate shaped like a
pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings. Something like +3, +2
, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top. Adjust your mixture cont
rol mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases of operation below 10,000')
corresponds to the pointer being aligned with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N'
inside a circle. Now you know the mixture is set exactly as it should be. A
gain - do not operate the engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will di
sable the automatic mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the
cylinder walls and other bad things.
Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period. When the
oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the appropriate precaut
ions run the engine at full power (super charger engaged) Switch from both
to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go back to both, then magneto 2. Ag
ain, what RPM drop do you see? I would expect a drop in the 25-35 RPM area.
Anything other than that suggests your ignition timing is a little out. It
is a simple matter to loosen the magneto clamps and rotate the mags a litt
le until the 25-35 RPM drop is observed. Why not just time the mags with a
buzz box in the traditional manner? For two reasons: 1) This is how the man
ual says to do it and 2) these magnetos have automatic advance and retard s
ystems so static timing means almost nothing.
How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can do so
me testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a cruise sor
t of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't matter if the
super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and observe the exhaust pi
pes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray (almost white) or a nice mi
d gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want the slate color.
If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.
Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the engine in t
he dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running engine. At medium po
wer settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with yellow to indicate the
ideal running conditions.
Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who now r
esides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM factory train
ed technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin airframes)
Steve
--
Stephen Beaver
Tel: 614-937 4189
On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike@vision499.com <mailto:mike@vision499.co
m> > <mike@vision499.com <mailto:mike@vision499.com> > wrote:
I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and automati
c mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003 and has had
Zero hours since
I started the motor recently and there are loud =9Cpops=9D out
of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running lean.
Fuel pressure is good
I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask if the
re is something else I should check for first.
Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would have deter
iorated. From the drawing I cannot see if there are any seals that may need
replacing.
Thanks
Mike
Mike Pienaar
mike@vision499.com <mailto:ike@vision499.com>
Home: +1 250-999-8121
Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554
1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Mixture |
No. The NGK plugs are the same thread as the originals. I can give you
the ordering information/parts list when you are ready
Steve
--
Stephen Beaver
Tel: 614-937 4189
> On Aug 19, 2020, at 11:24 AM, <mike@vision499.com>
<mike@vision499.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks again Steve,
>
> Does the spark plug conversion require new threads in the cylinder
head? Will try and get hold of Pavel and see about the harness
replacement later.
>
> Where are you situated?
>
> Thanks and keep well
>
> Mike
>
> From: owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com>
<owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com>> On Behalf Of sjbeaver
> Sent: August 19, 2020 4:56 AM
> To: Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list@matronics.com
<mailto:lom-list@matronics.com>>
> Subject: Re: Lom-List: Fuel Mixture
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> I'm afraid I know absolutely nothing about the reversing unit. It is
not included in any of the manuals I have; operation, installation or
overhaul.
>
> It is common practice to replace the ignition harness and spark plugs.
Pavel developed a modification that uses NGK plugs and caps with modern
stainless steel cored wire. People do this not because the existing
harness is a source of problems (as far as I know) but because the 12mm
PAL spark plugs are hard to find and expensive. I have converted quite a
number of engines to NGK with excellent results and at less than US$2
each for the plugs it is an inexpensive mod. If replacement plugs are
not a concern, I would leave it alone, however.
>
> There is a modification that can be done to the magneto mounting boss
that allows an o-ring to be installed which in turn prevents oil
draining into the magneto. I have not done this partly because it
requires machining and partly because I have never had a problem with
the mags. At annual inspection time I remove the caps and wipe clean any
oil mist I find, but I don't often find much. If your engine has been
idle for a long time it might be worth checking the inside of the mags
for oil and while you are there, cleaning and gapping the contacts.
>
> Steve
> --
> Stephen Beaver
> Tel: 614-937 4189
>
>
>
>
>> On Aug 19, 2020, at 1:01 AM, <mike@vision499.com
<mailto:mike@vision499.com>> <mike@vision499.com
<mailto:mike@vision499.com>> wrote:
>>
>> Hello Steve,
>>
>> Thanks you so very much for the detailed reply, I really appreciate
it. I did not make myself very clear, I have the fuel pump with the
adjustment nut at the rear and not the pump with the =9Cpizza
slice=9D but judging from what you said I don=99t think it
will make a difference.
>>
>> I will follow your testing procedure and let you know what happens
>>
>> I just wanted some confirmation that it is safe to run the engine
even though it is =9Cpopping=9D
>>
>> I have the propeller with reverse thrust, under the reverse thrust
control module there is what appears to be a solenoid and an oil leak
developed at the solenoid seal that was due to an =9Co=9D
ring that had lost all elasticity. I was fearful that there may be more
instances of this. Can you suggest anything else that I should replace
or renew.
>>
>> Do you think that I could remove the reverse thrust module completely
and connect directly from the governor to the hub?
>>
>> I have met with Pavel and he welded up my engine mount for me but
have not had contact for a few years.
>>
>> I have also heard that the magneto seals and harnesses are not good
quality and should be replaced and would appreciate your opinion
>>
>> Thanks again
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>> From: owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com>
<owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com>> On Behalf Of sjbeaver
>> Sent: August 18, 2020 10:00 AM
>> To: Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list@matronics.com
<mailto:lom-list@matronics.com>>
>> Subject: Re: Lom-List: Fuel Mixture
>>
>> Mike.
>>
>> There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about
and I would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and
very precise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain
plug on the underside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain
out. If sitting for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump
and interfere with the mixture.
>>
>> Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not
implying that there is any part of the manual you have not digested.
Just making sure I don't omit anything :)
>>
>> First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . .
) is the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American
engines seem to think that the engine should always be operated at the
most rich setting available. That is just not the case with the LOM and
doing so so will have serval rather bad consequences.
>>
>> Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of
the fuel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is
a small pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate
shaped like a pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings.
Something like +3, +2, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top.
Adjust your mixture control mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases
of operation below 10,000') corresponds to the pointer being aligned
with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N' inside a circle. Now you know the
mixture is set exactly as it should be. Again - do not operate the
engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will disable the automatic
mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the cylinder walls
and other bad things.
>>
>> Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period.
When the oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the
appropriate precautions run the engine at full power (super charger
engaged) Switch from both to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go
back to both, then magneto 2. Again, what RPM drop do you see? I would
expect a drop in the 25-35 RPM area. Anything other than that suggests
your ignition timing is a little out. It is a simple matter to loosen
the magneto clamps and rotate the mags a little until the 25-35 RPM drop
is observed. Why not just time the mags with a buzz box in the
traditional manner? For two reasons: 1) This is how the manual says to
do it and 2) these magnetos have automatic advance and retard systems so
static timing means almost nothing.
>>
>> How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can
do some testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a
cruise sort of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't
matter if the super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and
observe the exhaust pipes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray
(almost white) or a nice mid gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want
the slate color.
>>
>> If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.
>>
>> Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the
engine in the dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running
engine. At medium power settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with
yellow to indicate the ideal running conditions.
>>
>> Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who
now resides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM
factory trained technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin
airframes)
>>
>> Steve
>> --
>> Stephen Beaver
>> Tel: 614-937 4189
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike@vision499.com
<mailto:mike@vision499.com>> <mike@vision499.com
<mailto:mike@vision499.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and
automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003
and has had
>>> Zero hours since
>>>
>>> I started the motor recently and there are loud =9Cpops=9D
out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running
lean.
>>>
>>> Fuel pressure is good
>>>
>>> I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask
if there is something else I should check for first.
>>>
>>> Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would
have deteriorated. =46rom the drawing I cannot see if there are any
seals that may need replacing.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Mike Pienaar
>>> mike@vision499.com <mailto:ike@vision499.com>
>>> Home: +1 250-999-8121
>>> Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554
>>> 1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2
>>>
>>>
>>>
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_
campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>>> Virus-free. www.avast.com
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_
campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
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