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1. 05:07 AM - Re: Fuel Mixture (sjbeaver)
2. 05:26 AM - Re: Fuel Mixture (sjbeaver)
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Subject: | Re: Fuel Mixture |
That is a surprising amount of oil. In a normally functioning, current
revision engine I would expect to see perhaps a table spoon of oil. In
the older style pump with a filler port on the side, perhaps a cup. Then
again I have never left the pump open overnight. There is a connection
from the engine oil system to the pump in that one of the factors the
pump uses to set the fuel mixture is oil pressure.
I would suggest proceeding as follows:
1. Remove the drain plug/screen under the scavenge pump. How much
oil do you see there? If you see a a cup or more then I would suggest
all is well. If you see almost none then it would appear that the cam
case oil is somehow leaking into the injection pump. This seems unlikely
though
2. Put everything back together and run the engine. Asses the
performance per my previous email and then remove the oil drain plug in
the pump again. How much oil this time? (Use something more scientific
than the hangar floor to measure it :) )
Steve
--
Stephen Beaver
Tel: 614-937 4189
> On Aug 24, 2020, at 12:04 AM, <mike@vision499.com>
<mike@vision499.com> wrote:
>
> Hello Steve
>
> I also thought it was impossible, I drained it from a small plug at
the bottom of the fuel pump, the plug only needs a 12mm wrench so is
small. Working forward from the rear of the pump there is a small
slotted screw and then the plug. These are the only fittings on the
bottom of the fuel pump. I can see a large nut on the camshaft cover
that I assumed to be the drain under the scavenge pump, I did not open
that. Could this oil have siphoned from somewhere?
>
> Thanks for you help
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> From: owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com>
<owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com>> On Behalf Of sjbeaver
> Sent: August 23, 2020 7:57 PM
> To: lom-list@matronics.com <mailto:lom-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Lom-List: Fuel Mixture
>
> Three pints seems impossible. Did you drain that from the pump, or
from the screen at the rear of the camshaft housing?
>
> Steve
> --
> Stephen Beaver
> Tel: 614-937 4189
>
>
>
>
>> On Aug 23, 2020, at 10:33 PM, <mike@vision499.com
<mailto:mike@vision499.com>> <mike@vision499.com
<mailto:mike@vision499.com>> wrote:
>>
>> Hello Steve,
>>
>> I drained the oil from the fuel pump. I removed the plug and oil came
out very slowly so I left it overnight. Fortunately I put a small
container under the drain hole as this morning I found that about 3
pints had drained out.
>>
>> I cannot imagine where there is room for that amount of oil. Could it
be that my scavenge pump is not doing it=99s job?
>>
>> Have not tried to start it again but will let you know
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> From: owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com>
<owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-lom-list-server@matronics.com>> On Behalf Of sjbeaver
>> Sent: August 18, 2020 10:00 AM
>> To: Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list@matronics.com
<mailto:lom-list@matronics.com>>
>> Subject: Re: Lom-List: Fuel Mixture
>>
>> Mike.
>>
>> There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about
and I would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and
very precise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain
plug on the underside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain
out. If sitting for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump
and interfere with the mixture.
>>
>> Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not
implying that there is any part of the manual you have not digested.
Just making sure I don't omit anything :)
>>
>> First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . .
) is the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American
engines seem to think that the engine should always be operated at the
most rich setting available. That is just not the case with the LOM and
doing so so will have serval rather bad consequences.
>>
>> Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of
the fuel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is
a small pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate
shaped like a pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings.
Something like +3, +2, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top.
Adjust your mixture control mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases
of operation below 10,000') corresponds to the pointer being aligned
with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N' inside a circle. Now you know the
mixture is set exactly as it should be. Again - do not operate the
engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will disable the automatic
mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the cylinder walls
and other bad things.
>>
>> Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period.
When the oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the
appropriate precautions run the engine at full power (super charger
engaged) Switch from both to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go
back to both, then magneto 2. Again, what RPM drop do you see? I would
expect a drop in the 25-35 RPM area. Anything other than that suggests
your ignition timing is a little out. It is a simple matter to loosen
the magneto clamps and rotate the mags a little until the 25-35 RPM drop
is observed. Why not just time the mags with a buzz box in the
traditional manner? For two reasons: 1) This is how the manual says to
do it and 2) these magnetos have automatic advance and retard systems so
static timing means almost nothing.
>>
>> How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can
do some testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a
cruise sort of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't
matter if the super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and
observe the exhaust pipes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray
(almost white) or a nice mid gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want
the slate color.
>>
>> If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.
>>
>> Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the
engine in the dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running
engine. At medium power settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with
yellow to indicate the ideal running conditions.
>>
>> Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who
now resides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM
factory trained technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin
airframes)
>>
>> Steve
>> --
>> Stephen Beaver
>> Tel: 614-937 4189
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike@vision499.com
<mailto:mike@vision499.com>> <mike@vision499.com
<mailto:mike@vision499.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and
automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003
and has had
>>> Zero hours since
>>>
>>> I started the motor recently and there are loud =9Cpops=9D
out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running
lean.
>>>
>>> Fuel pressure is good
>>>
>>> I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask
if there is something else I should check for first.
>>>
>>> Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would
have deteriorated. =46rom the drawing I cannot see if there are any
seals that may need replacing.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Mike Pienaar
>>> mike@vision499.com <mailto:ike@vision499.com>
>>> Home: +1 250-999-8121
>>> Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554
>>> 1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2
>>>
>>>
>>>
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_
campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
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>
> <OIL-DRAIN.JPG>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Fuel Mixture |
The engine is not currently in production, but the factory is tooling up
to restart, possibly with an updated version featuring electronic
ignition and a reduced overall length.
=46rom my experience I would say that of the several parties that have
"represented" LOM in the USA two of them were crooks and were actually
convicted of various forms of fraud. The final one, Moravia of Thunder
Bay, Canada provided very good service and support. I believe they did
their best to serve the marked in an honest and proper manner.
Again in my opinion, there is, and always has been a certain na=C3=AFvety
in the relationship between some countries and the USA.
=46rom the former Czech Republic, particularly in the 1990s and 2000s,
the USA looks like the world's biggest aviation market with the skies
full of wealthy aircraft owners and builders needing engines. The 1930s
tractor technology we bolt to the front of our aircraft (there was no
Rotax 912 at the time) is crude in the extreme while the LOM has
multi-point sequential fuel injection, overhead cam, automatic mixture
control, no hot-start problems, etc, etc. Clearly a superior product for
a huge, hungry market. What could possibly go wrong?
=46rom the USA, the Czech Republic looks like an ex-Communist country
where they make crude, unreliable products. There is a sole source of
parts thousands of miles away where they don't even speak English so
buying anything from there is a huge risk. How could that possibly work?
Neither of the above are even close to being true, but it was always a
divide that would be difficult to bridge. Let's hope things wok out
better this time around. I would like to think that both parties are
more enlightened these days, but I have my doubts.
Modern communications do help. Today I can email a parts request to the
factory and have them arrive in short order via UPS. Geography is not so
important these days.
Steve
--
Stephen Beaver
Tel: 614-937 4189
> On Aug 24, 2020, at 12:09 AM, Placeholder <kalos53@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Is the LOM 332 still being sold in North America?
>
> Seems to me this was a good engine that received poor factory support
and marketing, and thus "failed" in the North American market.
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