Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:20 AM - Intake o-ring install (Bubblehead)
2. 06:09 AM - Re: Intake o-ring install (FLYaDIVE)
3. 06:28 AM - Re: Intake o-ring install (Greg Young)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Intake o-ring install |
2 years ago I had to replace 4 bad cylinders on my IO 360 A1F6D. The intake tubes
are the type that use o-rings to seal inside the sump. Over the last 9 months
3 of the 4 o-rings have started leaking as evidenced by rough running and high
EGTs during low power ops.
When I removed and inspected the o-rings they appeared to have a dark line on the
od and the id. When I rubbed the lines they turned out to be small cracks.
In one area the skin of the o-ring peeled back.
I don't know if I just got bad o-rings or did not install them correctly. The Lyc
overhaul manual does not say much. I used a little silicon o-ring grease on
them when I installed them. Could that have contributed to their failure? Do
people on this forum use anything on the o-rings during installation?
I wish I had the other style sump with the short hoses and clamps. That seems like
a better system. I am thinking of finding a second hand one at a salvage shop.
Any words of wisdom if I go that way? Is it worth the trouble?
--------
John Dalman
Keller, TX
RV-8 N247TD
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340255#340255
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Intake o-ring install |
John:
I can not comment on the silicone grease right now. But, give me a few
weeks because I am running tests at work that address the exact same
question.
First thing would be the age of the 'O' rings - there should have been a
shelf life on the package.
Second, 'O' rings are usually made of Neoprene, Buna-N or Viton.
All stand up very well to Gas, Diesel and Oil -AND - even Silicone.
My bet is you have a loose fit and there is vibration which is causing ware
and deggeration due to the "o"ring ROLLING sideways.
The only reason to lubricate an 'O'ring is to prevent it from rolling over
during install. AND the other basic rule is to lubricate with
the similar materials that will be found in its operational environment.
Also check the fit area for burrs and roughness.
Barry
===================
On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 8:16 AM, Bubblehead <jdalmansr@gmail.com> wrote:
> jdalmansr@gmail.com>
>
> 2 years ago I had to replace 4 bad cylinders on my IO 360 A1F6D. The intake
> tubes are the type that use o-rings to seal inside the sump. Over the last 9
> months 3 of the 4 o-rings have started leaking as evidenced by rough running
> and high EGTs during low power ops.
>
> When I removed and inspected the o-rings they appeared to have a dark line
> on the od and the id. When I rubbed the lines they turned out to be small
> cracks. In one area the skin of the o-ring peeled back.
>
> I don't know if I just got bad o-rings or did not install them correctly.
> The Lyc overhaul manual does not say much. I used a little silicon o-ring
> grease on them when I installed them. Could that have contributed to their
> failure? Do people on this forum use anything on the o-rings during
> installation?
>
> I wish I had the other style sump with the short hoses and clamps. That
> seems like a better system. I am thinking of finding a second hand one at a
> salvage shop. Any words of wisdom if I go that way? Is it worth the
> trouble?
>
> --------
> John Dalman
> Keller, TX
> RV-8 N247TD
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340255#340255
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Intake o-ring install |
That other style sump is only on the parallel valve engines. I've gone the
other way - putting the angle valve sump on a parallel valve engine and it
requires modified intake tubes, i.e. neither the normal parallel or angle
intake tubes fit. I assume your swap would need modified tubes as well. The
angle valve sump is generally more desirable since the intake does not go
through hot oil. It's part of the tuned induction that gets the extra
horsepower in the angle valve engines. I did it to get the forward facing
injector. I'm not sure if there is a parallel valve equivalent. There are a
lot of those engines used without problems. I'd get new o-rings and install
dry or with something other than silicone, like fuel lube or engine oil, and
go fly.
Greg Young
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-lycomingengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-lycomingengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Bubblehead
Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2011 7:17 AM
Subject: LycomingEngines-List: Intake o-ring install
--> <jdalmansr@gmail.com>
2 years ago I had to replace 4 bad cylinders on my IO 360 A1F6D. The intake
tubes are the type that use o-rings to seal inside the sump. Over the last 9
months 3 of the 4 o-rings have started leaking as evidenced by rough running
and high EGTs during low power ops.
When I removed and inspected the o-rings they appeared to have a dark line
on the od and the id. When I rubbed the lines they turned out to be small
cracks. In one area the skin of the o-ring peeled back.
I don't know if I just got bad o-rings or did not install them correctly.
The Lyc overhaul manual does not say much. I used a little silicon o-ring
grease on them when I installed them. Could that have contributed to their
failure? Do people on this forum use anything on the o-rings during
installation?
I wish I had the other style sump with the short hoses and clamps. That
seems like a better system. I am thinking of finding a second hand one at a
salvage shop. Any words of wisdom if I go that way? Is it worth the
trouble?
--------
John Dalman
Keller, TX
RV-8 N247TD
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340255#340255
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