M14PEngines-List Digest Archive

Fri 05/11/07


Total Messages Posted: 4



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 02:11 PM - Heat shieding ideas (Eddie Moran)
     2. 04:17 PM - Re: Heat shieding ideas (Jake Singleton)
     3. 05:42 PM - Re: Heat shieding ideas (Eddie Moran)
     4. 09:10 PM - Re: Heat shieding ideas (Dan Horton)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 02:11:48 PM PST US
    From: Eddie Moran <eddiemoranii@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Heat shieding ideas
    Hi, My exhaust stack is a tad too close to my fiberglass cowling on the bottom. I see a future problem there. Yes I can cut a "little" off and still maintain a good look, no, cant really move cowling too much......... but..........does anyone have an idea of something I can put on the fiberglass there to keep it cool? Metal? Some type of filler? Ideas? I did a couple of high speed taxis today and could never get to max power due to a 15kt. headwind that made the Moose want to get airborne at 2200 rpm. Eddie Moran --------------------------------- Building a website is a piece of cake.


    Message 2


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    Time: 04:17:18 PM PST US
    From: "Jake Singleton" <singleberry@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Heat shieding ideas
    Eddie- Depending on the definition of "close" there are several options. I work for a composite airframe manufacturer and we successfully dissipate heat by the use of stainless steel sheet separated from the composite surface by a layer of fiberfrax (refractory ceramic insulation). The shield stands about 3" from the surface of the composite once assembled, and extends beyond the heat source to aid in heat dissipation. The sheet can be fastened or bonded to the composite at the edges to secure the fiberfrax insulation. High temp rtv works well to seal the edges if it is kept at a reasonable distance from the heat source. Aircraft spruce carries it, and it is relatively inexpensive. If the cowl is really close, and can't afford to install thick shields, perhaps a ceramic fire paint (google search "fire paint" or "fire free") would provide the insulation needed. I am familiar with the use of Ocean Fire Retardant #447 2-part epoxy, and it works quite well. Cheers, Jake Singleton _____ From: owner-m14pengines-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-m14pengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eddie Moran Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 2:11 PM Subject: M14PEngines-List: Heat shieding ideas Hi, My exhaust stack is a tad too close to my fiberglass cowling on the bottom. I see a future problem there. Yes I can cut a "little" off and still maintain a good look, no, cant really move cowling too much......... but..........does anyone have an idea of something I can put on the fiberglass there to keep it cool? Metal? Some type of filler? Ideas? I did a couple of high speed taxis today and could never get to max power due to a 15kt. headwind that made the Moose want to get airborne at 2200 rpm. Eddie Moran


    Message 3


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    Time: 05:42:39 PM PST US
    From: Eddie Moran <eddiemoranii@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Heat shieding ideas
    Jake, thanks. It is pretty close. I would estimate 1/4" or so. I will look into the ceramic fire paint. That might work better than the other option for two reasons. First the cowl is "really close" and second...........I have no idea what you were talking about in the first option. Thanks again, Eddie Jake Singleton <singleberry@hotmail.com> wrote: v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} Eddie- Depending on the definition of close there are several options. I work for a composite airframe manufacturer and we successfully dissipate heat by the use of stainless steel sheet separated from the composite surface by a layer of fiberfrax (refractory ceramic insulation). The shield stands about .3 from the surface of the composite once assembled, and extends beyond the heat source to aid in heat dissipation. The sheet can be fastened or bonded to the composite at the edges to secure the fiberfrax insulation. High temp rtv works well to seal the edges if it is kept at a reasonable distance from the heat source. Aircraft spruce carries it, and it is relatively inexpensive. If the cowl is really close, and cant afford to install thick shields, perhaps a ceramic fire paint (google search fire paint or fire free) would provide the insulation needed. I am familiar with the use of Ocean Fire Retardant #447 2-part epoxy, and it works quite well. Cheers, Jake Singleton --------------------------------- From: owner-m14pengines-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-m14pengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eddie Moran Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 2:11 PM Subject: M14PEngines-List: Heat shieding ideas Hi, My exhaust stack is a tad too close to my fiberglass cowling on the bottom. I see a future problem there. Yes I can cut a "little" off and still maintain a good look, no, cant really move cowling too much......... but..........does anyone have an idea of something I can put on the fiberglass there to keep it cool? Metal? Some type of filler? Ideas? I did a couple of high speed taxis today and could never get to max power due to a 15kt. headwind that made the Moose want to get airborne at 2200 rpm. Eddie Moran http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?M14PEngines-List http://forums.matronics.com --------------------------------- Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story. Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.


    Message 4


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    Time: 09:10:17 PM PST US
    From: "Dan Horton" <DanHorton@elmore.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Heat shieding ideas
    Eddie, Go here: http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1178942810-318-11 1&browse=engines&product=cowl_protector Dan




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