M14PEngines-List Digest Archive

Tue 04/07/09


Total Messages Posted: 4



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:04 AM - Re: Re: Looking for parts (George Coy)
     2. 06:16 AM - Re: Looking for parts (mikspin)
     3. 07:48 AM - Re: Looking for parts (HBaker)
     4. 12:30 PM - Re: Re: Looking for parts (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:04:37 AM PST US
    From: "George Coy" <george@gesoco.com>
    Subject: Re: Looking for parts
    Mike, We stock the metal caps. George Coy Motorstar NA 714 Airport Rd. Swanton VT 05488 802-868-5633 off 802-363-5782 cell george.coy@gmail.com SKYPE george.coy motorstarna.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-m14pengines-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-m14pengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of mikspin Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 12:07 AM Subject: M14PEngines-List: Re: Looking for parts Henry, I was just working on a Moose this weekend out in Wyoming, and the owner has a need for a metal cap for the tach drive. I suggested he track down a local machinist to turn a cap with metric threads to cover the original tach drive (he has the storage cap and of course the tach drive housing for patterns and threading measurements). If he comes up with something, I'll let you know, and by the same token, could you post here if you come up with one yourself? Thanks, Mike Hastings Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238102#238102


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:16:23 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Looking for parts
    From: "mikspin" <acromike@gmail.com>
    George, Great! How much, and I assume they are drilled so they can be safety wired? Also, I had a call into Cliff about the small rubber buttons that act as standoffs on the cylinder baffles (four per baffle), but have not heard back from him. Thanks, Mike Hastings Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238138#238138


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:48:13 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Looking for parts
    From: "HBaker" <henry.baker@nf.sympatico.ca>
    Yes George I would like to know how much for the caps as well, And is there a braided wire available for the shower of sparks as well or can you just use a silicone one? Henry Moose 294 -------- Currently building a Murphy Moose - any help would be appreciated. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238153#238153


    Message 4


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    Time: 12:30:26 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Looking for parts
    From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
    Yes, that would work... I think what he is suggesting is this: Normally the starter button activates the starter air valve and also turns on the starting ignition system at the same time. You could in fact put in a "bypass switch" that would allow you to PREVENT activating the starting air system, yet STILL operate the starting ignition system. This could indeed be used to handprop the aircraft and make it a tad bit safer since the starter air valve would never be activated. This is a simple one wire issue. It also assumes a 2 man procedure. Most folks just shut off the main air line and bleed the air system until there is nothing left to GO to the starter air valve, but to each their own. Pushing the starter button and hand propping at the same time? I guess you mean doing this all by yourself? No one in the cockpit? Well... That is the exact method that was used to provide me my spare YAK-50. A nice fella tried to do just that... It started. Away it went. Right into a hangar. Not really something I would ever want to do. Further, the shower of sparks // boost coil system is not something you want to turn on, get out of the cockpit, walk around to the front of the aircraft, start it, then go back and turn it off and then switch on the mags. Just not do-able. It also would be really close to stupid. I doubt your mechanic meant that. The system in the YAKS use a very very high voltage wire. It is a stranded center conductor with a Teflon tape wind around it, and then a shield over top of that. Remember that this wire goes directly into the mag cap itself, and there is a ton of energy in that thing when it is both starting and then running off the mag itself. This produces a lot of RF energy from all the sparks, which will tear your radio to pieces. I have never tried straight 8mm silicone wire, but it should work. Mark -----Original Message----- From: owner-m14pengines-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-m14pengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of HBaker Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 10:49 PM Subject: M14PEngines-List: Re: Looking for parts --> <henry.baker@nf.sympatico.ca> Mark I guess your right , if you don't have battery power than you don't have to worry because there is no fire on the shower of sparks, I had a aircraft mechanic in the weekend and he mentioned about bypassing the start switch , because it would be hard to hand prop and depress the starter button at the same time, we are starting to wire it up and trying to find out how, I guess he wasn't thinking about that . can you use a regular silicone wire from the shower of sparks to the left mag?? Henry -------- Currently building a Murphy Moose - any help would be appreciated. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238090#238090




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