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1. 09:22 AM - Re: Re: Booster coil (George Coy)
2. 10:45 AM - Re: Re: Booster coil (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Booster coil |
Mark, I guess I am confused by your explanation.. Perhaps you are talking
about CJ mags and I am not familiar with them. I will post today on the
motorstarna.com website the SPK-01 service bulletin.It is too big to meet
the guidelines for posting on the maltronics site.
It shows in pictures and words the instillation of the wires at the
magneto end. It is absolutely necessary to remove the mag cap and rotor cap
to thread the high tension lead into the magneto. I believe that you are
also talking about connections to the Russian (and maybe Chinese) type
booster coil. I believe that many people are using the T6 type of booster
coils which are very different as well. They can be de-tuned to run on 12
volts. We also now produce a solid state "boozer coil" called the SPK-01
that runs on any voltage form 9V to 32V.
George Coy
CAS Ltd.
714 Airport Rd.
Swanton VT 05488
802-868-5633 off
802-363-5782 cell
george.coy@gmail.com
http://coyafct.com/ <http://coyacft.com/>
SKYPE george.coy
_____
From: owner-m14pengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-m14pengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Yak Pilot
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 7:28 PM
Subject: Re: M14PEngines-List: Re: Booster coil
The booster coil has two screw in connectors. One for the main output
voltage which
takes a rather special piece that sits down in the socket and makes contact
with the
high voltage winding on the coil. This piece looks very close to the
"cigarette" that is
installed in the mag itself for almost the same purpose. This piece is held
on with a
screw on threaded cap.
The input voltage to the boost coil is fed in on the END of the unit. It
too has a threaded
on piece that is used to ground the shield, with a fitting that is almost
exactly the same
as that which screws on to the OUTSIDE of the mag that Dennis was talking
about
earlier. Just to be clear ... on that former subject..... one does not take
the mag apart
to get to ANYTHING inside the mag to connect the P Lead wire. The mag
stays
closed with the top screwed down. You never go inside of it. Instead you
have a
special piece that is soldered onto the end of the shielded P lead wire.
This special
piece then slides into a HOLE on the back of the mag. Again, you do not
take
anything apart to get at this. This special phenolic piece slides in and
makes contact
with an internal piece of spring metal. Then the CAP SCREW is tightened
down to
hold this piece in place. The shield of the P lead is soldered to the CAP
SCREW
PIECE and is grounded when you tighten the connector down. Doing this right
is
CRITICAL to avoid severe radio noise. I mean SEVERE.
The boost coil is the same way. The high voltage lead must be shielded and
the shield
grounded at the special connector. Otherwise the boost coil starting wire
will act as a
very nice antenna even when not starting, and your radios will be next to
useless.
To attach the actual power leads (as Dennis said: 24 vdc) to the coil, you
need to
split the case of the boost coil in half. (remove the 4 screws on the side
after un-
bending the locking tabs).
Inside you will see a terminal right next to a black knurled knob that is
used to
adjust the point gap on the buzzer that makes the thing work to begin with.
That
is your GROUND connection. As you are looking at the thing face on, with
that
terminal facing you, you will see the black adjustment knob on the left,
then going
clockwise you will see the double-nutted terminal that is the GROUND. Going
further clockwise you will see a terminal that is stand alone. It is hooked
to
nothing else electrically. All by itself. That is the main 28 vdc power
input
connection. Going further around (about 5 o'clock now) you will see a nut
that connects to the buzzer leaf spring) . Leave that alone.
The unit does not get it's ground from the case.
Best Regards,
Mark Bitterlich
p.s. Be very careful if you don't have the right connection fittings and
you decide
to wire it up as best you can. Especially the P lead on the mag. I have
seen
(personally) radio receiver front ends blown from the noise the mag can
create
if the P lead shield is not right. Good luck.
--- On Fri, 1/1/10, A. Dennis Savarese <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net> wrote:
From: A. Dennis Savarese <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: M14PEngines-List: Re: Booster coil
Booster coil - yes, I believe you are correct. I just don't remember
without looking at one.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: HBaker
<http://us.mc507.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=henry.baker@nf.sympatico.ca>
<http://us.mc507.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=m14pengines-list@matronics.com
>
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 9:40 PM
Subject: M14PEngines-List: Re: Booster coil
<henry.baker@nf.sympatico.ca
<http://us.mc507.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=henry.baker@nf.sympatico.ca> >
OK, Thanks !
That makes sense now. I'll take a closer look at this in the morning.
How about the booster coil ? Power to the 2 nut stud and the case is
already grounded ?
--------
Currently building a Murphy Moose - any help would be appreciated.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279708#279708
http://www.mnbsp; via the Web
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c====
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Booster coil |
George,
If you were confused by my reply, then it obviously was not good enough.
Sorry! I was talking about M-14 Booster Coils for the Yaks.
We were talking about two things:
1. The actual electrical connections to the Booster (Shower of
Sparks... Whatever you want to call it) coil that is external to the
mag. That coil has the high voltage lead that goes into the MAG for
starting... Goes to the retarded point in the rotor as I am sure you
know! Also talking about the 28 vdc hookup to that coil. Power to
which is supplied when you push the starter button.
2. Where the P lead actually connects to the MAG (on the side, with the
screw in connector).
You're right, some people are indeed using the T6 (and other type)
coils. I have no personal experience at all with those. My comments
were focused on just the Chinese and Russian Starting Booster Coils.
I'd like to hear more about your SPK-01 ~!!!!~
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-m14pengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-m14pengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of George
Coy
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 10:30 AM
Subject: RE: M14PEngines-List: Re: Booster coil
Mark, I guess I am confused by your explanation.. Perhaps you are
talking about CJ mags and I am not familiar with them. I will post today
on the motorstarna.com website the SPK-01 service bulletin.It is too
big to meet the guidelines for posting on the maltronics site.
It shows in pictures and words the instillation of the wires at the
magneto end. It is absolutely necessary to remove the mag cap and rotor
cap to thread the high tension lead into the magneto. I believe that
you are also talking about connections to the Russian (and maybe
Chinese) type booster coil. I believe that many people are using the T6
type of booster coils which are very different as well. They can be
de-tuned to run on 12 volts. We also now produce a solid state "boozer
coil" called the SPK-01 that runs on any voltage form 9V to 32V.
George Coy
CAS Ltd.
714 Airport Rd.
Swanton VT 05488
802-868-5633 off
802-363-5782 cell
george.coy@gmail.com
http://coyafct.com/ <http://coyacft.com/> SKYPE george.coy
________________________________
From: owner-m14pengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-m14pengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Yak
Pilot
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 7:28 PM
Subject: Re: M14PEngines-List: Re: Booster coil
The booster coil has two screw in connectors. One for the main output
voltage which
takes a rather special piece that sits down in the socket and makes
contact with the
high voltage winding on the coil. This piece looks very close to the
"cigarette" that is
installed in the mag itself for almost the same purpose. This piece is
held on with a
screw on threaded cap.
The input voltage to the boost coil is fed in on the END of the unit.
It too has a threaded
on piece that is used to ground the shield, with a fitting that is
almost exactly the same
as that which screws on to the OUTSIDE of the mag that Dennis was
talking about
earlier. Just to be clear ... on that former subject..... one does not
take the mag apart
to get to ANYTHING inside the mag to connect the P Lead wire. The mag
stays
closed with the top screwed down. You never go inside of it. Instead
you have a
special piece that is soldered onto the end of the shielded P lead wire.
This special
piece then slides into a HOLE on the back of the mag. Again, you do not
take
anything apart to get at this. This special phenolic piece slides in
and makes contact
with an internal piece of spring metal. Then the CAP SCREW is tightened
down to
hold this piece in place. The shield of the P lead is soldered to the
CAP SCREW
PIECE and is grounded when you tighten the connector down. Doing this
right is
CRITICAL to avoid severe radio noise. I mean SEVERE.
The boost coil is the same way. The high voltage lead must be shielded
and the shield
grounded at the special connector. Otherwise the boost coil starting
wire will act as a
very nice antenna even when not starting, and your radios will be next
to useless.
To attach the actual power leads (as Dennis said: 24 vdc) to the coil,
you need to
split the case of the boost coil in half. (remove the 4 screws on the
side after un-
bending the locking tabs).
Inside you will see a terminal right next to a black knurled knob that
is used to
adjust the point gap on the buzzer that makes the thing work to begin
with. That
is your GROUND connection. As you are looking at the thing face on,
with that
terminal facing you, you will see the black adjustment knob on the left,
then going
clockwise you will see the double-nutted terminal that is the GROUND.
Going
further clockwise you will see a terminal that is stand alone. It is
hooked to
nothing else electrically. All by itself. That is the main 28 vdc
power input
connection. Going further around (about 5 o'clock now) you will see a
nut
that connects to the buzzer leaf spring) . Leave that alone.
The unit does not get it's ground from the case.
Best Regards,
Mark Bitterlich
p.s. Be very careful if you don't have the right connection fittings
and you decide
to wire it up as best you can. Especially the P lead on the mag. I
have seen
(personally) radio receiver front ends blown from the noise the mag can
create
if the P lead shield is not right. Good luck.
--- On Fri, 1/1/10, A. Dennis Savarese <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
wrote:
From: A. Dennis Savarese <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: M14PEngines-List: Re: Booster coil
To: m14pengines-list@matronics.com
Date: Friday, January 1, 2010, 10:54 PM
Booster coil - yes, I believe you are correct. I just don't
remember without looking at one.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: HBaker
<http://us.mc507.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=henry.baker@nf.sympatico.c
a>
To: m14pengines-list@matronics.com
<http://us.mc507.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=m14pengines-list@matronics
.com>
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 9:40 PM
Subject: M14PEngines-List: Re: Booster coil
<henry.baker@nf.sympatico.ca
<http://us.mc507.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=henry.baker@nf.sympatico.c
a> >
OK, Thanks !
That makes sense now. I'll take a closer look at this
in the morning.
How about the booster coil ? Power to the 2 nut stud
and the case is already grounded ?
--------
Currently building a Murphy Moose - any help would be
appreciated.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279708#279708
http://www.mnbsp; via the Web
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
_p; generous bsp;
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
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target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?M14PEngines-List
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href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?M14PEngines-List">http://www.ma
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