Today's Message Index:
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1. 10:41 AM - Re: Booster coil (HBaker)
2. 10:59 AM - Re: Booster coil (HBaker)
3. 11:56 AM - Re: Re: Booster coil (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
4. 11:56 AM - Re: Re: Booster coil (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Booster coil |
Thanks guys
I think I have the Mag thing figured out, but to be absolutely sure see if I have
this right . The "P" lead wire coming from your mag switch enters at the rear
of the mag through the knurled knob you remove the knurled knob and remove
the tire like cap on the end. Peel back the outer braided shield wire push the
center wire through and solder it on, then screw the 'tire like ' valve cap
back on .Then take the outer braided shielded wire and wrap it around the treads
on the knurled knob screw it on and flip the lock spring.
--------
Currently building a Murphy Moose - any help would be appreciated.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280267#280267
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Booster coil |
Hi guys
This is the booster coil I have , I have one wire + 12 on the double nutted nut.
The ground wire neg is on the chassis because I have it mounted with Adel clamps.
Is this correct? I Have it wired to start with "mags off". The boost coil
operates ONLY when the start button, air or electric, is depressed. After the
engine starts I turn on the mags.
Cheers Henry Moose 294
--------
Currently building a Murphy Moose - any help would be appreciated.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280268#280268
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_1628_120.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_1627_118.jpg
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Booster coil |
That is incorrect... Assuming it is a standard Russian or Chineese
booster coil. If you are using something else, please let me know ok?
First, it is a 24 volt unit, not a 12 volt unit. It MIGHT work at 12
volts but will never have the correct output.
The ground goes on the double nut, not the positive voltage.
You've got it backwards.
Putting the ground wire neg on the chassis will not work.
Please go back and read what I sent you before.
With it hooked up as you have stated, it simply will not work... But
since you do not have a complete circuit, you won't blow anything up.
"The boost coil operates ONLY when the start button, air or electric,
is depressed. After the engine starts I turn on the mags."
That is correct.
To repeat:
To attach the actual power leads (as Dennis said: 24 vdc) to the coil,
you need to split the case of the boost coil in half. (remove the 4
screws on the side after un- bending the locking tabs).
Inside you will see a terminal right next to a black knurled knob that
is used to adjust the point gap on the buzzer that makes the thing work
to begin with. That is your GROUND connection. IT ALSO HAD A DOUBLE NUT
ON IT!!! As you are looking at the thing face on, with that terminal
facing you, you will see the black adjustment knob on the left, then
going clockwise you will see the double-nutted terminal that is the
GROUND.
Going further clockwise you will see a terminal that is stand alone. It
is hooked to nothing else electrically. All by itself. That is the
main 28 vdc power input connection. Going further around (about 5
o'clock now) you will see a nut that connects to the buzzer leaf spring)
. Leave that alone.
The unit does not get it's ground from the case.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-m14pengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-m14pengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of HBaker
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 1:59 PM
Subject: M14PEngines-List: Re: Booster coil
--> <henry.baker@nf.sympatico.ca>
Hi guys
This is the booster coil I have , I have one wire + 12 on the double
nutted nut. The ground wire neg is on the chassis because I have it
mounted with Adel clamps. Is this correct? I Have it wired to start
with "mags off". The boost coil operates ONLY when the start button, air
or electric, is depressed. After the engine starts I turn on the mags.
Cheers Henry Moose 294
--------
Currently building a Murphy Moose - any help would be appreciated.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280268#280268
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_1628_120.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_1627_118.jpg
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Booster coil |
I think you have it now. Make sure when you have it all done and you go
to remove the "knurled knob" that you hold the part that the shield gets
soldered to still as you rotate the threaded knurled knob, or you will
end up twisting the shield right off. Happens all the time to many
owners and this is where they end up getting all that radio noise from!
Next, from memory (it's been about 5 years), I think that the center
wire.. The actual P lead itself, gets SOLDERED to something as well and
then you screw that tire cap looking thing over the end of it. I am
pretty sure EVERYTHING gets soldered. I can take on apart tonight and
look if you would like.
On the shield, no you have that wrong.
When you grab the threaded knurled knob, you will see that as you hold
it in your hand, there is ANOTHER piece that it slides OVER. That piece
looks like a little FUNNEL, where the top of the funnel comes out the
BACK of the threaded knurled knob. You push the whole wire THROUGH that
center piece, push the shield back and solder it to the INSIDE of that
funnel piece. You do NOT just take the shield and wrap it around
anything.
You need a picture! And that is not an insult... It is very hard to
describe this thing.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-m14pengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-m14pengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of HBaker
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 1:41 PM
Subject: M14PEngines-List: Re: Booster coil
--> <henry.baker@nf.sympatico.ca>
Thanks guys
I think I have the Mag thing figured out, but to be absolutely sure see
if I have this right . The "P" lead wire coming from your mag switch
enters at the rear of the mag through the knurled knob you remove the
knurled knob and remove the tire like cap on the end. Peel back the
outer braided shield wire push the center wire through and solder it on,
then screw the 'tire like ' valve cap back on .Then take the outer
braided shielded wire and wrap it around the treads on the knurled knob
screw it on and flip the lock spring.
--------
Currently building a Murphy Moose - any help would be appreciated.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280267#280267
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