Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:09 AM - Re: Wood landing gear (Gene Rambo)
2. 05:15 AM - NC storms (Michael D Cuy)
3. 06:31 AM - Re: Wood landing gear (kirk)
4. 08:21 AM - What size soldering iron? (Jim Markle)
5. 08:27 AM - 1/8 scale Piet plans (DJ Vegh)
6. 08:40 AM - Re: 1/8 scale Piet plans (Ken Rickards)
7. 08:51 AM - Re: 65 HP climb rate (John Dilatush)
8. 08:58 AM - Re: What size soldering iron? (Hubbard, Eugene)
9. 09:10 AM - Re: What size soldering iron? (Kent Hallsten)
10. 09:39 AM - Soldered fuel tank..... (Jim Markle)
11. 10:05 AM - Re: 1/8 scale Piet plans (DJ Vegh)
12. 10:06 AM - Re: 65 HP climb rate (del magsam)
13. 10:26 AM - Re: 1/8 scale Piet plans (Ken Rickards)
14. 10:38 AM - Sky Scout in central Texas (Oscar Zuniga)
15. 10:50 AM - performance anecdotes (Oscar Zuniga)
16. 11:13 AM - Re: What size soldering iron? (ZigoDan@aol.com)
17. 11:59 AM - Looking for Piet image (Kent Hallsten)
18. 12:40 PM - Re: What size soldering iron? (flyboy_120@webtv.net (Ed G.))
19. 12:47 PM - Re: What size soldering iron? (Greg Cardinal)
20. 01:30 PM - Re: Looking for Piet image (DJ Vegh)
21. 01:33 PM - Re: Looking for Piet image (DJ Vegh)
22. 01:52 PM - Re: Looking for Piet image (Kent Hallsten)
23. 03:05 PM - Re: What size soldering iron? (Ian Holland)
24. 03:06 PM - Re: 65 HP climb rate (John Dilatush)
25. 03:11 PM - Re: Soldered fuel tank..... (D.Dale Johnson)
26. 03:25 PM - Re: What size soldering iron? (Gene Rambo)
27. 03:57 PM - Re: Wood landing gear (Gene Rambo)
28. 04:35 PM - Re: What size soldering iron? (Michael Conkling)
29. 04:51 PM - Re: Wood landing gear (The Huizenga's)
30. 05:12 PM - Re: What size soldering iron? (Lauritz Larsen)
31. 05:27 PM - (Doyle Combs)
32. 07:47 PM - Re: Wood landing gear (Gene Rambo)
33. 07:50 PM - Re: What size soldering iron? (Gene Rambo)
34. 07:57 PM - Cabane attach points (Ted Brousseau)
35. 08:24 PM - Re: What size soldering iron? ()
36. 11:38 PM - Re: Wheels-Tires (Rcaprd@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Wood landing gear |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
Kirk, that would be me talking about the string thing at Brodhead. It
worked out great, and I have since made my gear legs. I am on my way out to
work right now, but will give a more detailed description of how I did it
this evening. The number one thing I had to learn is that the ash blocks at
the bottom are not parallel, but are "toed out" at the leading edge quite a
bit more than you would expect. The second big trick is to cut your blanks
short and clamp them together with a third piece between them so that you
get the ends cut correctly without having to worry about the exact length.
(this probably does not make any sense, but I will explain better later,
gotta go now)
Gene Rambo
Message 2
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Jack Phillips-----it looks like a mess down there on the news. You guys ok
? Power outages, wrecks,
trees and power lines down, accidents. Whew. Hopefully the power stayed
on so and the roads were too
back to commute to work so you could work on your plane all day:)
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Mike C.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Wood landing gear |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: kirk <kirkh@unique-software.com>
That makes sense, I look forward to hear more.
thanks
Kirk
>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
>
>Kirk, that would be me talking about the string thing at Brodhead. It
>worked out great, and I have since made my gear legs. I am on my way out to
>work right now, but will give a more detailed description of how I did it
>this evening. The number one thing I had to learn is that the ash blocks at
>the bottom are not parallel, but are "toed out" at the leading edge quite a
>bit more than you would expect. The second big trick is to cut your blanks
>short and clamp them together with a third piece between them so that you
>get the ends cut correctly without having to worry about the exact length.
>(this probably does not make any sense, but I will explain better later,
>gotta go now)
>
>Gene Rambo
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | What size soldering iron? |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jim Markle"<jim_markle@mindspring.com>
OK, I've called EVERY sheet metal/HVAC shop in Dallas and everyone uses a
flame, NO ONE solders sheet metal!!!
And I want to solder my 26ga center section fuel tank, basically the way Larry
Williams (and others) have in the past.....
And I'm pretty sure my 30w pencil iron ain't gonna cut it!
Anyone with experience doing this have a recommendation? Will a 120w iron do
the job? Do I need one of those big 300w + soldering irons?
Jim in Plano
(anxious to get back to cutting/gluing WOOD....I'm tired of that "machine oil"
smell in my WOODWORKING SHOP!!!)
Message 5
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| Subject: | 1/8 scale Piet plans |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper@imagedv.com>
I've had a few requests for the Piet plans. to make things easier I've
uploaded them to my site. They are in a zip file in several formats. .ai
.dxf.dwg and .pdf. File is 1mb. They can be printed out on 8.5 x 11sheets
and taped togther.... thats what I did.
here's the link..... enjoy!
http://www.imagedv.com/aircamper/speed400/aircamper-speed400.zip
DJ Vegh
www.raptoronline.com
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Message 6
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| Subject: | 1/8 scale Piet plans |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
D.J. What other weight savings projects have you done on your ship. I know
about the plywood sides but is there anything else?
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: DJ Vegh [mailto:aircamper@imagedv.com]
Subject: Pietenpol-List: 1/8 scale Piet plans
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper@imagedv.com>
I've had a few requests for the Piet plans. to make things easier I've
uploaded them to my site. They are in a zip file in several formats. .ai
.dxf.dwg and .pdf. File is 1mb. They can be printed out on 8.5 x 11sheets
and taped togther.... thats what I did.
here's the link..... enjoy!
http://www.imagedv.com/aircamper/speed400/aircamper-speed400.zip
DJ Vegh
www.raptoronline.com
This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for viewing by
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: 65 HP climb rate |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "John Dilatush" <dilatush@amigo.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: 65 HP climb rate
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga"
<taildrags@hotmail.com>
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Oscar,
As a suggestion re: rate of climb, you might want to use the following
standard aeronautical engineering formula:
Rate of Climb in fpm = thrust horsepower available, times 33000, and then
divided by the aircraft weight
Thrust horsepower is defined as the actual horsepower available for climbing
(over and above that required for level flight) times the propeller
efficiency.
As an example, let's take the figures that you have given for Wynne's plane:
1500 # gross
100 horsepower
40 horsepower to maintain just level flight
80 % propeller efficiency
If we plug these numbers into the formula:
Rate of climb = 60 surplus horsepower times 80% propeller efficiency times
33,000 and divide the result by the 1,500 pound weight of the aircraft: we
would predict a rate of climb of 1056 fpm!
Yet he gets only max rate of climb of 700 fpm and sometimes less than this?
This might indicate that his horsepower ratings are somewhat optimistic.
And I would doubt also that you could maintain even level flight in a 1500
lb Pietenpol on only 40 hp,especially at a high density altitude as he
describes, let alone obtain a rate of climb in the plane.
John
+++++++++++++++++++++++
> Hello again, low 'n' slow fliers;
>
> More from my conversation with William Wynne about his Corvair-powered
Piet,
> this time about climb rate. For background, William's Piet weighed 730
lbs.
> empty. At Sun 'N' Fun 2000 his friend Gus gave numerous rides in the
plane
> and saw climb rates of at least 500 fpm, sometimes 650-700 according to
> William. Gus, fitted out and ready to fly, weighs close to 300 lbs.
> according to William. He flew passengers weighing up to 260 lbs., had it
> topped off with fuel (17 gal.), and the temp was in the 90's at times
during
> SNF. So here we have a plane weighing nearly 1500 lbs., flying with high
> ambient temperatures, and still climbing well. Friends, don't try this
> without at least 100 honest HP! Let's say we have a 5,000' long runway
> (about a mile). At a little under a mile a minute, we'll need that 500
fpm
> to make it to pattern altitude before it's time to stabilize at pattern
> altitude, chop power and turn base.
>
> William made the point that a typical Piet needs about 40 HP to maintain
> best climb speed of 55 MPH (don't quote me on those numbers; we're talking
> comparisons only for the moment). That leaves maybe 25 HP from a 65 HP
> engine as "excess" to make the plane climb. The typical "Bernie Corvair"
> using a blower motor and not much internal revision in the conversion can
> certainly produce 65 or 70 HP, but a clean conversion with the recommended
> cam and distributor is a solid 100 HP. With a 100 HP engine, there is a
> "surplus" of 60 HP available... 2.4 times as much "climb reserve" as a 65
> HP. Do I sound like a Corvair salesman yet? ;o)
>
> Oscar Ziga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | What size soldering iron? |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Hubbard, Eugene" <ehubbard@titan.com>
Jim,
Where did you find a source of ternplate? Is that what you're using? If
not, make sure whatever you have will solder well. I may be wrong, but my
memory is that it's hard to solder galvanized sheet.
If I had to solder something large like that, I'd use a propane torch, like
in plumbing. Solid-core tin/lead solder and lots of paste flux. That way I
would KNOW that everything got good and hot, and that the solder would flow
and coat everything evenly.
After that, clamp up everything just like you were welding it, but you don't
get to fill gaps with solder--it has to fit. Also, remember that everything
you solder up has to have flat face-to-face contact--remember that the
solder joint doesn't have anywhere near the strength of the underlying
metal--there has to be lots of contact area. I expect that the old (from
the '30s and '40s) construction handbooks have some useful information on
the subject.
I toyed with the idea of soldering up my tanks out of copper sheet
(available and fairly inexpensive), but finally decided that I didn't want
to take that big of an excursion from the main project. On the other hand,
I don't have my tank back from the welder yet, and a bit traditional-looking
tank is sort of appealing.
Let us know how it turns out!
Gene
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Markle [mailto:jim_markle@mindspring.com]
Subject: Pietenpol-List: What size soldering iron?
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jim
Markle"<jim_markle@mindspring.com>
OK, I've called EVERY sheet metal/HVAC shop in Dallas and everyone uses a
flame, NO ONE solders sheet metal!!!
And I want to solder my 26ga center section fuel tank, basically the way
Larry
Williams (and others) have in the past.....
And I'm pretty sure my 30w pencil iron ain't gonna cut it!
Anyone with experience doing this have a recommendation? Will a 120w iron
do
the job? Do I need one of those big 300w + soldering irons?
Jim in Plano
(anxious to get back to cutting/gluing WOOD....I'm tired of that "machine
oil"
smell in my WOODWORKING SHOP!!!)
Message 9
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| Subject: | What size soldering iron? |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Kent Hallsten" <KHallsten@Governair.com>
I have never had a chance to solder sheet steel or aluminum, but my MAPP tank works
great on copper fittings around the house. Not too expensive either. Would
it work for your purpose?
Kent
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Markle [mailto:jim_markle@mindspring.com]
Subject: Pietenpol-List: What size soldering iron?
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jim Markle"<jim_markle@mindspring.com>
OK, I've called EVERY sheet metal/HVAC shop in Dallas and everyone uses a
flame, NO ONE solders sheet metal!!!
And I want to solder my 26ga center section fuel tank, basically the way Larry
Williams (and others) have in the past.....
And I'm pretty sure my 30w pencil iron ain't gonna cut it!
Anyone with experience doing this have a recommendation? Will a 120w iron do
the job? Do I need one of those big 300w + soldering irons?
Jim in Plano
(anxious to get back to cutting/gluing WOOD....I'm tired of that "machine oil"
smell in my WOODWORKING SHOP!!!)
Message 10
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| Subject: | Soldered fuel tank..... |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jim Markle"<jim_markle@mindspring.com>
I'm using 26ga galvanized steel. (Material cost for the 26ga approx $12.)
I'll use muriatic acid to prep (remove) the galvanized area where I intend to
solder.
Seems like every commercial shop I talked to is using a flame. But if you
were to use an iron, do you have any idea what kind of wattage might be needed
for 26ga steel? Apparently using an iron will eliminate the warping due to
heat.
Larry Williams sent a brief write up on how he successfully completed the
process and dealt with the galvanized areas and the type of solder (solid, no
flux) etc, to a past issue of the BPA newsletter (October 2001 I think).
And I will let you know how (well) it works!
Thanks for your imput.
Jim in Plano, TX
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Hubbard, Eugene" <ehubbard@titan.com>
Jim,
Where did you find a source of ternplate? Is that what you're using? If
not, make sure whatever you have will solder well. I may be wrong, but my
memory is that it's hard to solder galvanized sheet.
If I had to solder something large like that, I'd use a propane torch, like
in plumbing.
Solid-core tin/lead solder and lots of paste flux. That way I
would KNOW that everything got good and hot, and that the solder would flow
and coat everything evenly.
After that, clamp up everything just like you were welding it, but you don't
get to fill gaps with solder--it has to fit. Also, remember that everything
you solder up has to have flat face-to-face contact--remember that the
solder joint doesn't have anywhere near the strength of the underlying
metal--there has to be lots of contact area. I expect that the old (from
the '30s and '40s) construction handbooks have some useful information on
the subject.
I toyed with the idea of soldering up my tanks out of copper sheet
(available and fairly inexpensive), but finally decided that I didn't want
to take that big of an excursion from the main project. On the other hand,
I don't have my tank back from the welder yet, and a bit traditional-looking
tank is sort of appealing.
Let us know how it turns out!
Gene
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: 1/8 scale Piet plans |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper@imagedv.com>
I did not stop the floor board aft of the seat but I did cut large lightening holes
in it. Left about 2" of plywood on either side of the diagonals and side
longerons . No other major things other than vigilant attention to not overdoing
glue joints with excessive glue. Also use spruce in the tail if at all possible
instead of fir or poplar. remember... if you save a pound in the tail
it'll keep you from having to add 3 in the nose
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Rickards
To: 'pietenpol-list@matronics.com'
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 9:49 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: 1/8 scale Piet plans
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
D.J. What other weight savings projects have you done on your ship. I know
about the plywood sides but is there anything else?
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: DJ Vegh [mailto:aircamper@imagedv.com]
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: 1/8 scale Piet plans
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper@imagedv.com>
I've had a few requests for the Piet plans. to make things easier I've
uploaded them to my site. They are in a zip file in several formats. .ai
.dxf.dwg and .pdf. File is 1mb. They can be printed out on 8.5 x 11sheets
and taped togther.... thats what I did.
here's the link..... enjoy!
http://www.imagedv.com/aircamper/speed400/aircamper-speed400.zip
DJ Vegh
www.raptoronline.com
This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for viewing by
Half Price Hosting, a leading email and web hosting provider. For more
information on an anti-virus email solution, visit
<http://www.halfpricehosting.com/av.asp>.
=
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Price Hosting, a leading email and web hosting provider. For more information
on an anti-virus email solution, visit <http://www.halfpricehosting.com/av.asp>.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: 65 HP climb rate |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: del magsam <farmerdel@rocketmail.com>
> Yet he gets only max rate of climb of 700 fpm and
> sometimes less than this?
> This might indicate that his horsepower ratings are
> somewhat optimistic.
when you pull numbers out of the air,(not your formula
but the numbers you plugged into it) it doesn't
indicate anything to me. I've seen enough evidence to
indicate to me that the engine is putting out in
excess of 100h.p. and that Williams estimates are
actually quite conservative.
=====
Del-New Richmond, Wi
"farmerdel@rocketmail.com"
Message 13
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| Subject: | 1/8 scale Piet plans |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
Thanks D.J.
The 3 to 1 ratio is well worth remembering.
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: DJ Vegh [mailto:aircamper@imagedv.com]
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: 1/8 scale Piet plans
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper@imagedv.com>
I did not stop the floor board aft of the seat but I did cut large
lightening holes in it. Left about 2" of plywood on either side of the
diagonals and side longerons . No other major things other than vigilant
attention to not overdoing glue joints with excessive glue. Also use spruce
in the tail if at all possible instead of fir or poplar. remember... if
you save a pound in the tail it'll keep you from having to add 3 in the nose
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Rickards
To: 'pietenpol-list@matronics.com'
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 9:49 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: 1/8 scale Piet plans
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
D.J. What other weight savings projects have you done on your ship. I
know
about the plywood sides but is there anything else?
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: DJ Vegh [mailto:aircamper@imagedv.com]
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: 1/8 scale Piet plans
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper@imagedv.com>
I've had a few requests for the Piet plans. to make things easier I've
uploaded them to my site. They are in a zip file in several formats.
.ai
.dxf.dwg and .pdf. File is 1mb. They can be printed out on 8.5 x
11sheets
and taped togther.... thats what I did.
here's the link..... enjoy!
http://www.imagedv.com/aircamper/speed400/aircamper-speed400.zip
DJ Vegh
www.raptoronline.com
This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for viewing by
Half Price Hosting, a leading email and web hosting provider. For more
information on an anti-virus email solution, visit
<http://www.halfpricehosting.com/av.asp>.
=
This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for viewing by
Half Price Hosting, a leading email and web hosting provider. For more
information on an anti-virus email solution, visit
<http://www.halfpricehosting.com/av.asp>.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Sky Scout in central Texas |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
Howdy again, folks. I just found out about an airworthy Sky Scout, located
not far from me, near "Old Kingsbury Aerodrome" (close to San Marcos, site
of the 2003 EAA Southwest Regional Fly-In). Picture and info are at
http://www.vintageaviation.org/aircraft/skyScout.html but it looks like a
pretty bird, Ford-powered.
I'll have to make time to visit. And check out the vintageaviation.org
website for a shot of the neat grass strip they have.
Oscar Ziga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 15
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| Subject: | performance anecdotes |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
You Piet guys are probably going to blackball me from this list if I don't
cut the chatter, but I thought it worthwhile to pass along two more
anecdotes from William Wynne.
One relates to performance due to wing incidence. He told me of a
Corvair-powered Piet that was performing poorly, and he was asked what might
be wrong. Turns out that the builder had swapped the front and rear cabanes
when mounting the wings, so it had negative incidence on the wing! I don't
suppose it would perform well that way, and sure enough it would cruise with
the nose high and didn't have enough elevator control in the landing flare.
But it sure wasn't the engine's fault.
The other has to do with how the Corvair stacks up against... a 145 Warner!
Some of you may have seen the round-engined Warner Piet at Brodhead or
elsewhere. The Warner is said to develop 145 HP at 1700 RPM or something
like that, and this one has a heck of a climb prop. So William says it
easily out-climbed his Corvair-powered Piet but he could overtake it in
cruise.
These Pietenpols are great, aren't they? Stout, forgiving, easily
"customized", and just plane fun ;o)
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: What size soldering iron? |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: ZigoDan@aol.com
Jim,
I will tell you this you need the bigest soldering iron avaliable. The ones at
Wall-Mart will not work, trust me on this. I have one that a friend gave to
me, it is bigger than anything I could find. I am not sure of the wattage though.
I would think it came from a source that solders flashing, or copper roofs.
I am an HVAC man myself, although I do not work it anymore.
I will tell you that galvinize sheet solders easly, without removing the galvinized
coating.
Another thing you might think about, and one I am planing on using is as follows.
There is a machine called a pittsburg seamer, it makes mechanical seams in sheet
metal. HVAC uses them all the time. My suggestion is to seam it, and seal
it with solder. Go to a really friendly HVAC sheet metal shop, and ask questions.
When I was in school I made a small pan that held water using this method.
The seam it very strong and eliminates warpage. The draw back is you will
not be able to do heavy curves.
Dan
Message 17
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| Subject: | Looking for Piet image |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Kent Hallsten" <KHallsten@Governair.com>
I get asked at work about my Piet and it's usually "How far along are you?" I
remember seeing a view of a Piet that was complete, except for covering. I'd
like to print off a view like this and keep it by my desk, with the parts that
are finished colored in. That way it's easy to show off what is done, and how
much more is left to do.
The view I remember looked like a CAD 3D image that you could rotate around on
screen. Anyway, if someone has something like that, or a 3-view showing all the
parts in a file somewhere I'd appreciate it.
Kent Hallsten
Oklahoma City
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: What size soldering iron? |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: flyboy_120@webtv.net (Ed G.)
When I was a kid a looooooong time ago I used to help my uncle install
metal gutters on roofs. We soldered the joints with a simple heavy
duty soldering iron which we kept in a bed of hot charcoals. Maybe
you've seen them. It had a wood handle with a 1/4" steel rod about 10"
long. On the business end of the rod was a heavy hunk of steel about 1
1/4" in diameter and about 3" long with a tapered end. we used the large
bars of solder and that iron would melt it like butter making perfect
solder joints effortlessly every time. If you could find one or make one
I bet it would be a good inexpensive way to solder up something like
fuel tank. Ed
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: What size soldering iron? |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal@startribune.com>
Look in antique stores, flea markets or farm auctions. They are not
uncommon. They are made of copper.
"Aircraft Maintenance" by Brimm & Bogess gives a good explanation of
their use.
Greg Cardinal
>>> flyboy_120@webtv.net 12/06/02 02:39PM >>>
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: flyboy_120@webtv.net (Ed G.)
When I was a kid a looooooong time ago I used to help my uncle install
metal gutters on roofs. We soldered the joints with a simple heavy
duty soldering iron which we kept in a bed of hot charcoals. Maybe
you've seen them. It had a wood handle with a 1/4" steel rod about
10"
long. On the business end of the rod was a heavy hunk of steel about 1
1/4" in diameter and about 3" long with a tapered end. we used the
large
bars of solder and that iron would melt it like butter making perfect
solder joints effortlessly every time. If you could find one or make
one
I bet it would be a good inexpensive way to solder up something like
fuel tank. Ed
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for Piet image |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper@imagedv.com>
I designed and modeled a 3D Aircamper a few months back. I have it in 3D
max file and Lightwave 3D file. Can be rotated in any angle.
will that work for you? You'll need a 3D viewer to see it....
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kent Hallsten" <KHallsten@governair.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Looking for Piet image
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Kent Hallsten"
<KHallsten@Governair.com>
>
> I get asked at work about my Piet and it's usually "How far along are
you?" I remember seeing a view of a Piet that was complete, except for
covering. I'd like to print off a view like this and keep it by my desk,
with the parts that are finished colored in. That way it's easy to show off
what is done, and how much more is left to do.
>
> The view I remember looked like a CAD 3D image that you could rotate
around on screen. Anyway, if someone has something like that, or a 3-view
showing all the parts in a file somewhere I'd appreciate it.
>
> Kent Hallsten
> Oklahoma City
>
>
This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for viewing by Half
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Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for Piet image |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper@imagedv.com>
ohhh also.. forgot about this... I made a 3-view for my POH. it's a 3D
rendering of my plane (with my scheme on it) but it's a fairly accurate 3
view
it's located here
http://www.imagedv.com/aircamper/dj-ac-3-view.jpg
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kent Hallsten" <KHallsten@governair.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Looking for Piet image
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Kent Hallsten"
<KHallsten@Governair.com>
>
> I get asked at work about my Piet and it's usually "How far along are
you?" I remember seeing a view of a Piet that was complete, except for
covering. I'd like to print off a view like this and keep it by my desk,
with the parts that are finished colored in. That way it's easy to show off
what is done, and how much more is left to do.
>
> The view I remember looked like a CAD 3D image that you could rotate
around on screen. Anyway, if someone has something like that, or a 3-view
showing all the parts in a file somewhere I'd appreciate it.
>
> Kent Hallsten
> Oklahoma City
>
>
This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for viewing by Half
Price Hosting, a leading email and web hosting provider. For more information
on an anti-virus email solution, visit <http://www.halfpricehosting.com/av.asp>.
Message 22
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| Subject: | Looking for Piet image |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Kent Hallsten" <KHallsten@Governair.com>
Thanks DJ
Yes, I bet it would be just fine! I can get one of the engineers here at work
to open it and print out. Send over whatever you can, something will work.
KHallsten@Governair.com
Kent
-----Original Message-----
From: DJ Vegh [mailto:aircamper@imagedv.com]
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Looking for Piet image
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper@imagedv.com>
I designed and modeled a 3D Aircamper a few months back. I have it in 3D
max file and Lightwave 3D file. Can be rotated in any angle.
will that work for you? You'll need a 3D viewer to see it....
DJ
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: What size soldering iron? |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ian Holland" <iholland@telusplanet.net>
Jim. I lucked into a large soldering copper at a garage sale. It is a
pointed chunk of solid copper on the end of a heavy wire (rod handle)
It is a #2 copper and weighs about 1 pound. I used the propane torch
to get it very hot and it flowed solder onto the galvanized metal like
you wouldn't believe. I also turned the edge joints up with a pair of
pliers that allowed the solder to remain in the joint without running
out. Riveted with steel pop rivets and soldered over the heads also.
Good luck,
-=Ian=-
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: 65 HP climb rate |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "John Dilatush" <dilatush@amigo.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "del magsam" <farmerdel@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: 65 HP climb rate
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: del magsam
<farmerdel@rocketmail.com>
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Del,
The numbers I used were the numbers that Wynne quoted to Oscar (read his
E-mail) and not "pulled out of the air".
I used the most conservative numbers that were quoted in the E-mail -- do
the math yourself!
How do you know that Wynne's estimates are "quite conservative"? Have you
seen the engine on a dyno or have you seen any horsepower/torque curves?
John
+++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
> > Yet he gets only max rate of climb of 700 fpm and
> > sometimes less than this?
> > This might indicate that his horsepower ratings are
> > somewhat optimistic.
> when you pull numbers out of the air,(not your formula
> but the numbers you plugged into it) it doesn't
> indicate anything to me. I've seen enough evidence to
> indicate to me that the engine is putting out in
> excess of 100h.p. and that Williams estimates are
> actually quite conservative.
>
>
> =====
> Del-New Richmond, Wi
> "farmerdel@rocketmail.com"
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Soldered fuel tank..... |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "D.Dale Johnson" <dd5john@juno.com>
Jim
I used a big soldering copper ( about 2 pounds) which was heated in a
flame.
This was kept tinned and it worked real good.
1/2 " strips of copper was crimped over the joint & sweat soldered.
The baffles in the tank were pop riveted using copper pop rivets and
soldered.
Dale
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: What size soldering iron? |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
I bought a extremely large iron like the one described here at a yard sale
recently. If you want to borrow it to try be my guest. It is not
electric-powered, mind you, you'll have to keep it in coals or over a
propane torch, but it is large enough. This is exactly the kind of thing I
bought it for.
Gene Rambo
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed G. <flyboy_120@webtv.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: What size soldering iron?
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: flyboy_120@webtv.net (Ed G.)
>
> When I was a kid a looooooong time ago I used to help my uncle install
> metal gutters on roofs. We soldered the joints with a simple heavy
> duty soldering iron which we kept in a bed of hot charcoals. Maybe
> you've seen them. It had a wood handle with a 1/4" steel rod about 10"
> long. On the business end of the rod was a heavy hunk of steel about 1
> 1/4" in diameter and about 3" long with a tapered end. we used the large
> bars of solder and that iron would melt it like butter making perfect
> solder joints effortlessly every time. If you could find one or make one
> I bet it would be a good inexpensive way to solder up something like
> fuel tank. Ed
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wood landing gear |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
OK, I am home now with a glass of wine in hand. Before I start, I didn't
make any of this up, but was told about it by Jack Phillips, I believe. It
really works!!!!! Keep in mind, this is how I did it, not that it is THE
correct way or THE only way.
First, I positioned the fuselage. I did some measuring and looking over the
plans and located the proper position for the axle given my wheel size
(distance aft of the firewall and distance down from the upper longeron). I
discovered that I could position the lower ash blocks for the gear correctly
by placing the tailpost on the floor and clamping two 2x4's vertically to
the firewall. With the fuselage like this, the ash blocks rested on the
floor at the correct angle in relation to the fuselage. (Actually, I placed
the ash blocks on a piece of particle board, with a small scrap the same
thickness under the tailpost. This way, I could screw down small blocks to
hold the ash pieces in place, and could draw a center line and axle line on
the board.) A plumb bob off of the center of the firewall and a string
pulled from the tailpost gave my centerline so I could place the ash blocks
at the correct width. (If I was to do this again, I would take two 1x4's,
drill a 1-1/4" hole in both, run my axle tubing through the holes, and clamp
the boards to the sides of the fuselage so that the axle is positioned
properly and cannot move. Then the axle can rest on the ash blocks and the
tail on the floor at the proper angle)
I then marked the locations on the fuselage side where the side braces would
attach. I marked the front and rear side of both side braces. I taped four
pieces of string to the four marks right on the lower corner of the
fuselage. Tape the four strings to the outboard edge of the ash block in
their correct locations. Then, you can back up and sight down the strings.
You twist the ash block until all four strings line up. What you have done
is make the outboard faces of the side braces (which, of course, are flat)
line up perfectly. They also, by chance, point directly toward the
tailpost.
With the strings pulled tight, you can take an angle measuring tool and
measure the angles inboard/outboard and fore/aft for the angle cuts. Using
a miter chop saw, the angles are a breeze to cut (except that the rear leg
is too flat an angle to cut on the saw, which only goes up to 90 degrees and
you have to do some fancy math and use a wedge block to make it, but you'll
figure it out) Using short pieces of your wood, make the angle cuts until
the piece will fit and line up with the strings. Then clamp the ends
together with a piece in the middle for length and you have your pattern! I
only did one side and made the mirror image for the opposite.
The more I write, the more I realize I sound like a raving lunatic, but
believe me, it is much easier than it sounds. If I can clear any of it up,
please ask.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: kirk <kirkh@unique-software.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wood landing gear
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: kirk <kirkh@unique-software.com>
>
> That makes sense, I look forward to hear more.
>
> thanks
> Kirk
>
> >--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
> >
> >Kirk, that would be me talking about the string thing at Brodhead. It
> >worked out great, and I have since made my gear legs. I am on my way out
to
> >work right now, but will give a more detailed description of how I did it
> >this evening. The number one thing I had to learn is that the ash blocks
at
> >the bottom are not parallel, but are "toed out" at the leading edge quite
a
> >bit more than you would expect. The second big trick is to cut your
blanks
> >short and clamp them together with a third piece between them so that you
> >get the ends cut correctly without having to worry about the exact
length.
> >(this probably does not make any sense, but I will explain better later,
> >gotta go now)
> >
> >Gene Rambo
> >
> >
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: What size soldering iron? |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Michael Conkling" <hpvs@southwind.net>
Back in the old days (OK, when I was a kid!) Dad used one of the "iron" for
most of his Ham radio repairs -- always on the kitchen table, 'cause he used
the front burner of the kitchen stove to keep it up to temperature!
Now, if we could get some proper "tern plate" (steel sheet with the lead/tin
coating - used to be used for flashing & Model "A" gas tanks??!)
Mike C
Pretty Prairie, KS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: What size soldering iron?
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
>
> I bought a extremely large iron like the one described here at a yard sale
> recently. If you want to borrow it to try be my guest. It is not
> electric-powered, mind you, you'll have to keep it in coals or over a
> propane torch, but it is large enough. This is exactly the kind of thing
I
> bought it for.
>
> Gene Rambo
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ed G. <flyboy_120@webtv.net>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: What size soldering iron?
>
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: flyboy_120@webtv.net (Ed G.)
> >
> > When I was a kid a looooooong time ago I used to help my uncle install
> > metal gutters on roofs. We soldered the joints with a simple heavy
> > duty soldering iron which we kept in a bed of hot charcoals. Maybe
> > you've seen them. It had a wood handle with a 1/4" steel rod about 10"
> > long. On the business end of the rod was a heavy hunk of steel about 1
> > 1/4" in diameter and about 3" long with a tapered end. we used the large
> > bars of solder and that iron would melt it like butter making perfect
> > solder joints effortlessly every time. If you could find one or make one
> > I bet it would be a good inexpensive way to solder up something like
> > fuel tank. Ed
> >
> >
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Wood landing gear |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "The Huizenga's" <kirkh@unique-software.com>
Sounds like enough to run with. Thanks Gene. The only question I have
is whether you want the tailwheel on or off for the set-up. The plans
show that the lower ash block needs to line up with the tail, but is
that where the tailwheel touches the ground or simply the bottom of
the fuselage at the tail (or doesn't it matter really)? It sounds
like you didn't have your tailwheel on -correct?
Kirk
>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
>
>OK, I am home now with a glass of wine in hand. Before I start, I didn't
>make any of this up, but was told about it by Jack Phillips, I believe. It
>really works!!!!! Keep in mind, this is how I did it, not that it is THE
>correct way or THE only way.
>
>First, I positioned the fuselage. I did some measuring and looking over the
>plans and located the proper position for the axle given my wheel size
>(distance aft of the firewall and distance down from the upper longeron). I
>discovered that I could position the lower ash blocks for the gear correctly
>by placing the tailpost on the floor and clamping two 2x4's vertically to
>the firewall. With the fuselage like this, the ash blocks rested on the
>floor at the correct angle in relation to the fuselage. (Actually, I placed
>the ash blocks on a piece of particle board, with a small scrap the same
>thickness under the tailpost. This way, I could screw down small blocks to
>hold the ash pieces in place, and could draw a center line and axle line on
>the board.) A plumb bob off of the center of the firewall and a string
>pulled from the tailpost gave my centerline so I could place the ash blocks
>at the correct width. (If I was to do this again, I would take two 1x4's,
>drill a 1-1/4" hole in both, run my axle tubing through the holes, and clamp
>the boards to the sides of the fuselage so that the axle is positioned
>properly and cannot move. Then the axle can rest on the ash blocks and the
>tail on the floor at the proper angle)
>
>I then marked the locations on the fuselage side where the side braces would
>attach. I marked the front and rear side of both side braces. I taped four
>pieces of string to the four marks right on the lower corner of the
>fuselage. Tape the four strings to the outboard edge of the ash block in
>their correct locations. Then, you can back up and sight down the strings.
>You twist the ash block until all four strings line up. What you have done
>is make the outboard faces of the side braces (which, of course, are flat)
>line up perfectly. They also, by chance, point directly toward the
>tailpost.
>
>With the strings pulled tight, you can take an angle measuring tool and
>measure the angles inboard/outboard and fore/aft for the angle cuts. Using
>a miter chop saw, the angles are a breeze to cut (except that the rear leg
>is too flat an angle to cut on the saw, which only goes up to 90 degrees and
>you have to do some fancy math and use a wedge block to make it, but you'll
>figure it out) Using short pieces of your wood, make the angle cuts until
>the piece will fit and line up with the strings. Then clamp the ends
>together with a piece in the middle for length and you have your pattern! I
>only did one side and made the mirror image for the opposite.
>
>The more I write, the more I realize I sound like a raving lunatic, but
>believe me, it is much easier than it sounds. If I can clear any of it up,
>please ask.
>
>
>Gene
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: kirk <kirkh@unique-software.com>
>To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wood landing gear
>
>
>> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: kirk <kirkh@unique-software.com>
>>
>> That makes sense, I look forward to hear more.
>>
>> thanks
>> Kirk
>>
>> >--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
>> >
>> >Kirk, that would be me talking about the string thing at Brodhead. It
>> >worked out great, and I have since made my gear legs. I am on my way out
>to
>> >work right now, but will give a more detailed description of how I did it
> > >this evening. The number one thing I had to learn is that the ash blocks
>at
>> >the bottom are not parallel, but are "toed out" at the leading edge quite
>a
>> >bit more than you would expect. The second big trick is to cut your
>blanks
>> >short and clamp them together with a third piece between them so that you
>> >get the ends cut correctly without having to worry about the exact
>length.
>> >(this probably does not make any sense, but I will explain better later,
>> >gotta go now)
>> >
>> >Gene Rambo
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
--
Kirk Huizenga and Bryan Eastep's Aircamper and Corvair Project
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList.cfm?Menu=PhotoGallery
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: What size soldering iron? |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Lauritz Larsen" <pietlars@earthlink.net>
Jim:
I am just finishing up a 26ga GI gas tank, WITH SOLDERED SEAMS. I am
fortunate to have a retired sheet metal contractor friend who is my guru.
He has a 50+ year old acetelene torch/soldering iron which directs a flame
onto the rear end of copper iron about 1" square cross section. Used a
muriatic acid "flux" and 50/50 bar solder. The 50/50 is the correct type
for GI work. Also used old tinners soft iron rivets for the mechanical
bond.
A large iron is a must for a smooth job. You can find old copper heavy irons
in some antique tools sections of antique shops. Then have to use a torch
or gas stove burner to heat it.
Hope this helps.
Lou Larsen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Markle" <jim_markle@mindspring.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: What size soldering iron?
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jim
Markle"<jim_markle@mindspring.com>
>
> OK, I've called EVERY sheet metal/HVAC shop in Dallas and everyone uses a
> flame, NO ONE solders sheet metal!!!
>
> And I want to solder my 26ga center section fuel tank, basically the way
Larry
> Williams (and others) have in the past.....
>
> And I'm pretty sure my 30w pencil iron ain't gonna cut it!
>
> Anyone with experience doing this have a recommendation? Will a 120w iron
do
> the job? Do I need one of those big 300w + soldering irons?
>
> Jim in Plano
> (anxious to get back to cutting/gluing WOOD....I'm tired of that "machine
oil"
> smell in my WOODWORKING SHOP!!!)
>
>
Message 31
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|
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Doyle Combs" <dcombs@ltex.net>
Does anyone onboard know the demensions of a Piper J-3 Cub gas tank?
thanks
dcombs
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Wood landing gear |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
I put the tailpost itself on the floor. By my measurements, the missing
height of the tailwheel is about the same as the missing height of the wheel
from the center of the axle to the ground. I am going to build my
tailwheel/skid to make the tailpost that height.
Gene
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: What size soldering iron? |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
Most sheet metal shops I have seen have terneplate, there is one a few
blocks from my house that has it. The only problem to me is that it is so
heavy. I think I'll go with aluminum and tig weld it.
Gene Rambo
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Conkling <hpvs@southwind.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: What size soldering iron?
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Michael Conkling"
<hpvs@southwind.net>
>
> Back in the old days (OK, when I was a kid!) Dad used one of the "iron"
for
> most of his Ham radio repairs -- always on the kitchen table, 'cause he
used
> the front burner of the kitchen stove to keep it up to temperature!
>
> Now, if we could get some proper "tern plate" (steel sheet with the
lead/tin
> coating - used to be used for flashing & Model "A" gas tanks??!)
>
> Mike C
> Pretty Prairie, KS
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: What size soldering iron?
>
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
> >
> > I bought a extremely large iron like the one described here at a yard
sale
> > recently. If you want to borrow it to try be my guest. It is not
> > electric-powered, mind you, you'll have to keep it in coals or over a
> > propane torch, but it is large enough. This is exactly the kind of
thing
> I
> > bought it for.
> >
> > Gene Rambo
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Ed G. <flyboy_120@webtv.net>
> > To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: What size soldering iron?
> >
> >
> > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: flyboy_120@webtv.net (Ed G.)
> > >
> > > When I was a kid a looooooong time ago I used to help my uncle install
> > > metal gutters on roofs. We soldered the joints with a simple heavy
> > > duty soldering iron which we kept in a bed of hot charcoals. Maybe
> > > you've seen them. It had a wood handle with a 1/4" steel rod about
10"
> > > long. On the business end of the rod was a heavy hunk of steel about 1
> > > 1/4" in diameter and about 3" long with a tapered end. we used the
large
> > > bars of solder and that iron would melt it like butter making perfect
> > > solder joints effortlessly every time. If you could find one or make
one
> > > I bet it would be a good inexpensive way to solder up something like
> > > fuel tank. Ed
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Cabane attach points |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979@naples.net>
I am building a short fuselage Pietenpol. I am getting ready to install my
lower cabane fittings on the fuselage. Here is my question. I assume the
fittings a bolted through the top longeron and the strut on each side. On
top of these are 1/8" ply stiffners with cross struts. My cross struts meet
the longeron exactly where the upright strut does too. Is that how others
did too? If so, do you cut the cross struts at each end so the cabane
fitting can be bolted on?
On a slightly (but maybe the real problem) different note. I bought this
fuselage partially completed. It came with plans. I have been working on
everything but the fuselage since. I just pulled some measurements and
compare them to the plans. They don't all match. I have fuselage plans #1
dated 1-19-33. The dimension from the front of the firewall to the #3
upright strut is 14 1/2" on the plans but only 12" on my fuselage. The rest
of the stations seem to more or less match. I am now wondering if I
shouldn't have a different plan for at least the fuselage? Maybe that would
also solve the question I posed above.
Thanks,
Ted Brousseau
Naples, FL
Where it finally has started to cool down.
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: What size soldering iron? |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "" <genet@iwon.com>
To solder up a gas tank you would use a tin smiths iron.
They do or at least thay did at one time come as electric
as well as the solid bar type to be heated with a flame.
My father had an American Beauty 300 watt iron which had a 1 inch diameter chissel
type tip for working tin sheet. we used to heat it up with a torch to save
time the 300 watt element would heat it up but it took longer than we were willing
to wate . The thing was big a weighed about five pounds. I doubt if you
could find one today I have sean many of the 100 watt American beauty irons over
the years. I believe my brother ended up with my fathers. Benzomatic made a
propain torch atachment soldering tip which as I recall worked well. It gave
you a lot more control over how much heat you would apply thus helping with the
over heating problems of using a torch on thin stuff.
Gene
in St Louis
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Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Wheels-Tires |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com
In a message dated 12/5/02 9:21:22 PM Central Standard Time, BARNSTMR@aol.com
writes:
<< Hello Chuck Gantzer,
How's your Piet flying?
Hey I am finally getting back to work on my project. Finally found a place
to work on it here in TX. Please send me the supplier source for the wheels
and tires you used on your Piet. What did you pay? What was the assembled
weight for each?
Happy Holidays.
Terry B. >>
Hey Terry !!
It's great to hear you're getting back in to building your plane !! Remember
the day you helped me start covering my wing? If it wasn't for your help, my
wing wouldn't have turned out as good as it did. Thank You !! She's flying
pretty good, but the engine has been the scurge of the project. As well as
it just doesn't climb as well as I had hoped, and I'm in the process of
re-powering 'er with a Continental A65. The supplier and source for my
wheels was a guy out at Benton, that put different brakes on his Aercoupe,
and they were free !! Couldn't argue about the price. As for the type and
weight, I keep all that info in my construction log book:
Wheels - Goodyear 6.00 X 6 pt#530659 cap. 1200 lbs
Wheel Bearings - Timken #13889
Tires - Titan Tube Type - 8.00 X 6 4 ply, max infla. 24 psi Turf Glide,
from Wicks; I started out running 10 psi, but now I run closer to 15
psi.
Hub Caps - AS&S Economy Wheel Cover 6.00 X 6 pt#06-03710
The weight of each wheel / tire combo, is about 12 1/2 pounds.
Chuck Gantzer
NX770CG
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