Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:28 AM - Continental 65 (John_Duprey@vmed.org)
2. 06:00 AM - Re: gn-1 /piet for sale (Mary & Paul Winkworth)
3. 06:16 AM - Re: Continental 65 (Michael D Cuy)
4. 06:46 AM - Re: Re: gn-1 /piet for sale (Ken Rickards)
5. 12:09 PM - Re: Continental 65 (walter evans)
6. 12:28 PM - Re: Continental 65 (John_Duprey@vmed.org)
7. 01:48 PM - Re: Continental 65 (Gene Rambo)
8. 03:59 PM - Mystery prop (rhartwig11@juno.com)
9. 09:04 PM - Re: Continental 65 (Jack Phillips)
10. 09:19 PM - Re: Continental 65 (ZigoDan@aol.com)
11. 09:53 PM - Re: Continental 65 (Rcaprd@aol.com)
Message 1
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01/09/2003 08:27:45 AM
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: John_Duprey@vmed.org
All you continental guys (Mike C., Walt , etc...) how many of you guys
overhauled your own engine? How difficult was it? I have a friend who says
it is not bad and is willing to sign off my work to make it a legal
certified engine. But although I have done some engine work on my antique
truck, I am not a pro, and I don't wish to bite off more than I can chew.
Thanks for any input.
John Duprey
In Wintery Massachusetts
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: gn-1 /piet for sale |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Mary & Paul Winkworth <winkster@eagle.ca>
Hi everyone. I live in Canada and have my piet for sale. I would say it
is 60% completed.The equipment that goes with it is too numerous to
mention here,but I will gladly put it together for all interested
buyers. It includes 2 corvair engines-a second gn-1 for parts - spare
spruce and the list goes on. I am asking $4000.00 CDN. CHECK THE
CONVERSION TO US$.
You can e-mail me at winkster@eagle.ca for more info.
regards Paul.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Continental 65 |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
John D. I overhauled my Cont. 65 with an updated Cont. 65 Overhaul manual
and had never done an engine overhaul before sans a few Briggs & Stratton
pistons and rings and helping with a few top-overhauls of some cyls. from
our old Champ. I basically used a micrometer to measure all my old parts to
see what was out of tolerance (the book tells you the specs for each part)
and the obvious parts that were junk I threw out and bought new. (Fresno
Air Parts...first page of Trade-A-Plane.) I sent my cyls, rockers,
connecting rods, crankshaft, cam, tappet bodies, mag gears, crank and cam
gear, etc. to http://www.aea-precision.com/ Aircraft Engine & Accessory in
Dallas, TX. They measured, magnafluxed, machined, and sent back. The
crank needed to be built up in the seal area, nitrided, and turned
undersize. The cyls. needed to be bored oversize a bit, the cam was junk,
one mag gear was junk, etc. Once I knew what sizes I had I could then
order the appropriate over or undersized parts from Fresno. You might
want to have a mechanic familiar with 65's to over-see your process. For
instance, I couldn't tell if I needed new oil pump gears or not. I took
them to my local IA and he ran his fingernail across the oil pump gear
shafts and felt grooves. "replace them with new." I did. There are many
variables like if you have chromed cyls, nitrided ones, or plain
steel. You'll get 20 different opinions on all this too....which is best
or worst. My guy said---don't screw with it. Make it a 65 and it will
give you long life. So far, so good. 250 hours. My oil burn is almost
non-existent. Plain steel cyls., Cont. rings and pistons---all
new. Burn mineral oil for break in. One thing that is not in the
book. When you seal the engine case halves, my IA said to smear the
Titeseal on the mating face but then run a sewing thread around the entire
perimeter inside the bolt holes. Leak free engine case. I purchased a
major overhaul gasket set.....which is pretty reasonable. I went with a
new thrust seal, new tach seal, etc. Anyway.....it can be done with the
right machine shop, updated Cont. manual, and torque wrenches that cover
the range of needed values. Magneto and carb overhauls are another issue,
but for the basic engine itself, it's not a complex piece of
machinery. You'll learn alot and it will be very satisfying.
Mike C.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: gn-1 /piet for sale |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
Where are you located in Canada, I'm in Stoney Creek Ontario
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: Mary & Paul Winkworth [mailto:winkster@eagle.ca]
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: gn-1 /piet for sale
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Mary & Paul Winkworth
<winkster@eagle.ca>
Hi everyone. I live in Canada and have my piet for sale. I would say it
is 60% completed.The equipment that goes with it is too numerous to
mention here,but I will gladly put it together for all interested
buyers. It includes 2 corvair engines-a second gn-1 for parts - spare
spruce and the list goes on. I am asking $4000.00 CDN. CHECK THE
CONVERSION TO US$.
You can e-mail me at winkster@eagle.ca for more info.
regards Paul.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Continental 65 |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "walter evans" <wbeevans@worldnet.att.net>
John,
I read Mike Cuy's response, and it's good advice. Only difference with mine
is that I got lucky and got an engine that was rumored to have only 800
hours on it since overhaul. so I took a chance and luckily my AP gave it a
visual and confirmed it ( after teardown) He felt the side play on the rod
bearings and advised not to split the case, so I didn't. All else was in
spec, except one valve shank.
So it wound up costing me the price of a manual ( a must)
rings
gasket set
some different length pushrods
and my own labor
Not to mention a second teardown to redo the valves. Only laped them in but
they didn't seal right. But that was only my own free labor.
The pushrods above were for a spec on the engine that apparently is
overlooked by many. I had never heard of the concept till my AP filled me
in. This is a must if you redo the valves.
Here it is,,,the hydraulic lifter has a certain working range, and you must
run in that range or the engine will be "weak"
The spec is in the manual, and you correct each one that isn't right by
replacing that pushrod. You can get different lengths from Fresno parts.
My advice on doing it yourself is that if you have the interest to do it,
it's not a hard engine to do. But like anything else, if you don't really
have it in you, then let someone else do it.
walt evans
----- Original Message -----
From: <John_Duprey@vmed.org>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: John_Duprey@vmed.org
>
>
> All you continental guys (Mike C., Walt , etc...) how many of you guys
> overhauled your own engine? How difficult was it? I have a friend who says
> it is not bad and is willing to sign off my work to make it a legal
> certified engine. But although I have done some engine work on my antique
> truck, I am not a pro, and I don't wish to bite off more than I can chew.
>
> Thanks for any input.
> John Duprey
> In Wintery Massachusetts
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Continental 65 |
01/09/2003 03:27:44 PM
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: John_Duprey@vmed.org
Thanks Mike and Walt good advice, I will get a manaul and dig in...
John
"walter evans" <wbeevans@worldnet.att.net>@matronics.com on 01/09/2003
03:01:35 PM
Please respond to pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent by: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "walter evans"
<wbeevans@worldnet.att.net>
John,
I read Mike Cuy's response, and it's good advice. Only difference with
mine
is that I got lucky and got an engine that was rumored to have only 800
hours on it since overhaul. so I took a chance and luckily my AP gave it a
visual and confirmed it ( after teardown) He felt the side play on the rod
bearings and advised not to split the case, so I didn't. All else was in
spec, except one valve shank.
So it wound up costing me the price of a manual ( a must)
rings
gasket set
some different length pushrods
and my own labor
Not to mention a second teardown to redo the valves. Only laped them in
but
they didn't seal right. But that was only my own free labor.
The pushrods above were for a spec on the engine that apparently is
overlooked by many. I had never heard of the concept till my AP filled me
in. This is a must if you redo the valves.
Here it is,,,the hydraulic lifter has a certain working range, and you must
run in that range or the engine will be "weak"
The spec is in the manual, and you correct each one that isn't right by
replacing that pushrod. You can get different lengths from Fresno parts.
My advice on doing it yourself is that if you have the interest to do it,
it's not a hard engine to do. But like anything else, if you don't really
have it in you, then let someone else do it.
walt evans
----- Original Message -----
From: <John_Duprey@vmed.org>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: John_Duprey@vmed.org
>
>
> All you continental guys (Mike C., Walt , etc...) how many of you guys
> overhauled your own engine? How difficult was it? I have a friend who
says
> it is not bad and is willing to sign off my work to make it a legal
> certified engine. But although I have done some engine work on my antique
> truck, I am not a pro, and I don't wish to bite off more than I can chew.
>
> Thanks for any input.
> John Duprey
> In Wintery Massachusetts
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Continental 65 |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
Actually, the manual does tell you the thing about the thread on the
crankcase halves, it calls for a silk thread.
Gene Rambo
do not archive
Message 8
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: rhartwig11@juno.com
The following prop is a wee bit too large for a Pietenpol, but I would
like to know what it was on originally. Can anyone identify what it may
have been on?
It is a wooden Fahlin prop, approximately 8 1/4 feet long.
Stamped near hub:
Fahlin d-400
No. 3558 H.P. 100
R.P.M. 1400
ATC-135
I don't remember if it was left or right turning.
Dick H
Message 9
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips@earthlink.net>
Hi John,
I overhauled my Continental A-65 this summer, under the watchful eye of the
local FBO. It was not difficult at all. I watched the video that Mattituck
put out on overhauling an O-200 (which is very similar to the A-65) and
learned a lot from that. If you have the manuals and watch the video you
shouldn't have much trouble.
On mine, nearly everything was new (new camshaft, cam followers, cylinders,
pistons, intake tubes). The only original parts were the crankcase,
connecting rods, rocker arms, valve lifters, gears, pushrods and crankshaft.
All of those I had overhauled and inspected at Triad Aviation in Burlington,
NC, except for the valve lifters, which I inspected myself per the overhaul
manual. I also overhauled the carburetor myself, per the manual.
Do NOT buy your hardware from Fresno Airparts (opening page of
Trade-a-Plane). I bought the cylinder base nuts from them and I think they
are bogus hardware. Several of the nuts smeared before I put the full
torque on them, so now I am in the process of re-torquing my cylinders with
known good hardware.
I have not run the engine yet, but it turns over very smoothly and I have
full confidence in it. Better yet, I know everything that is in it, and
have a much better idea about what is going on inside the engine than I
would if I had just paid somebody to do it.
Go for it.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
John_Duprey@vmed.org
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Continental 65
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: John_Duprey@vmed.org
All you continental guys (Mike C., Walt , etc...) how many of you guys
overhauled your own engine? How difficult was it? I have a friend who says
it is not bad and is willing to sign off my work to make it a legal
certified engine. But although I have done some engine work on my antique
truck, I am not a pro, and I don't wish to bite off more than I can chew.
Thanks for any input.
John Duprey
In Wintery Massachusetts
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Continental 65 |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: ZigoDan@aol.com
John,
The A-65 is a really easy engine to overhaul. Before tearing it down let me
tell you about a couple things that will help. There are a couple of
shoulder bolts that are really tight holding the case together, I have used a
large C-clamp to get them started followed by a drift to get them out. Be
Extra careful, not to ruin these or you will have to buy a complete set.
Also there is bolt sorta hidden behind one of the rear lower mounts don't
forget it. Once you get this far do not pry the case use a rubber mallet and
carefully work it apart. Also when removing the cylinders do not allow the
rods to drop against the case, it will leave a nice ding mark. Reuse all of
your parts that are serviceable, don't leave flying time on the shelf, just
because of a little wear. Hopefully you will have a standard shaft within
limits, or one that will grind to . 010 , if not delay grinding to .020 as
the cost of bearings is much higher. In fact you can probably find a new
shaft ground .010 cheaper than the cost of going .020 hope this helps you
out. I am on my third A-65.
Dan
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Continental 65 |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com
Some good advise on the Continental overhaul from Mike, Walt, and like
Gene said it is a silk thread. The thread doesn't come in the gasket kit, so
I'll check the local sewing store...I wonder what they'll think when I tell
'em what I'm using it for.
I'm deep in the overhaul process now. I have a Continental A75 engine,
and I've learned the major difference is that the A75 has holes drilled in
the rods in a location so when it is at the bottom of the stroke, it squirts
a shot of oil up under the adjacent piston, for extra cooling. This allows
for a higher R.P.M. and thus more power, accomplished with less pitch on the
prop. The A65 is rated at 2300 R.P.M., and the A75 is rated at 2600 R.P.M.
When I mic the crank, I recorded my readings on like a spread sheet. I
checked four locations on each journel, and eight locations on the front main
journel. On each journel I checked the forward portion, aft portion, and
perpindicular to each of these locations. This allows you to spot a tapered
worn journel, and an oval worn journel. I found that I have a crank that is
in standard spec. My cam was good too. I checked the valve lift before I
disassembled the engine, and they were all within .001 to .002 of each other,
and the bearing journel was in spec.
The two areas where I've gotta spend lots of money, is the ignition
system, and the cylinders. My cylinders were worn past the limits, so I sent
them off to Aircraft Cylinders of America, in Tulsa OK, for chrome. This is
the only type work they do. Bore, chrome, then regrind the chrome back to
original specs, to use std. pistons. It's an approved process, and they give
a yellow tag with the cylinders (FAA airworthy part). The advantages are I
can salvage the cylinders, chrome doesn't rust from prolonged storage, and
it's hard enough to outlast 3 or 4 sets of rings. The first four I sent to
them had rust pits in two of the cylinders, that were too deep for the
process to be acceptable. I sent four more cylinders, found two more good
ones, and now they have two done, two to go. They use Brown Aviation to do
the head / valve work, so that's where my cylinders are going next. I
haven't got them back yet, so I don't know the total bill, but it should be
less than $1000. That's a lot less than $800 ea. for new ones.
I bought the Slick Mag Kit #4334, which includes two mags with impulse
couplings, gears, shielded ignition leads, and Autolite shielded plugs.
Slick offers $150 rebate for your old mags, no matter the make...then they
crush 'em !! Sheds a whole new lite on eliminating the competition ! With
the rebate, it was just over $1000.
Chuck Gantzer
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