Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:31 AM - Re: Fuse change from plans (Jack Phillips)
2. 07:31 AM - Drag/Anti-Drag (Barry Davis)
3. 07:49 AM - Re: Drag/Anti-Drag (Craigo)
4. 07:56 AM - Re: Drag/Anti-Drag (cat_designs@juno.com)
5. 08:07 AM - Re: Drag/Anti-Drag (Les Schubert)
6. 08:28 AM - Re: Drag/Anti-Drag (DJ Vegh)
7. 08:44 AM - Re: Drag/Anti-Drag (Cy Galley)
8. 10:50 AM - air drills (Oscar Zuniga)
9. 12:10 PM - Re: air drills (Barry Davis)
10. 01:34 PM - Turnbuckles (lshutks@webtv.net (Leon Stefan))
11. 04:00 PM - cutting 4130 (Brants)
12. 04:41 PM - Re: Drag/Anti-Drag (Ted Brousseau)
13. 04:41 PM - Re: straight axle builders (Ted Brousseau)
14. 05:22 PM - Re: Drag/Anti-Drag (Gary Gower)
15. 05:34 PM - Re: straight axle builders (Gary Gower)
16. 05:49 PM - Re: Drag/Anti-Drag (Isablcorky@aol.com)
17. 06:08 PM - Re: Fuse change from plans (Richard Navratril)
18. 06:38 PM - Re: Turnbuckles (Jack Phillips)
19. 07:13 PM - Re: Fuse change from plans (Isablcorky@aol.com)
20. 09:40 PM - Re: Fuse change from plans (Les Schubert)
Message 1
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Subject: | Fuse change from plans |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
Hi Corky,
I see nothing wrong in what you are proposing. Bill Rewey has been saying
for years that someone should build a SuperPiet, and it sounds like that is
what you are doing.
A couple of comments:
1. I made my fuselage 1" wider than plans and am glad I did, now that it's
built. It does have noticeably more room than a standard fuselage. I built
the long fuse, but kept the seats where they were on the plans. If
possible, I would not move the rear seat any further aft due to CG problems.
One thing to bear in mind is that a wider fuselage will cost considerably
more in plywood to build. With a 24" wide fuselage, you can get two useable
pieces out of a 4'x8' sheet. With my 25" fuselage, I had to buy 2 sheets
where I could have used one if built to the plans. And there are a good
many pieces of plywood as wide as the fuselage (floorboards, firewall, front
seatback, rear seatback, rear seat, etc.)
2. With a 32" wide centersection and a 28" wide fuselage, there is no reason
to slant the cabanes, unless you really want to. My centersection is 30"
wide, sitting on top of my 25" fuselage, so I have 2-1/2" of spar sticking
out beyond the cabane struts eaither side. Yours would have 2" either side.
Big deal. The only problem with slanted cabanes is making the fittings to
attached them to the fuselage and centersection - just a lot of angles that
all have to line up properly.
Just think things through carefully and KEEP IT LIGHT.
Good luck and keep us posted
Jack Phillips
In North Carolina, where NX899JP now has two ailerons covered and the tail
section about to get its first piece of fabric
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Isablcorky@aol.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuse change from plans
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Isablcorky@aol.com
Pieters,
Am asking all of you to put on you thinking caps and voice any objections to
what I am about to write. I want tech reasons more than the traditional "
BHP
didn't do it that way". I particularly want to hear from those of you in the
know aerodynamically as I would rather avoid creating a hazard.
Tomorrow I begin laying out the fuse for RePiet. I will be using the
drawings
for the long one but will vary it somewhat. The width will be 28 instead of
24. The rear cockpit will be 4 inches longer from inst panel to seat back in
rear pit than the short fuse or 1 in longer than the long fuse. I'll borrow
that inch from one of the rear bays.
Also, but not firm, am considering a center section of 32 inches since I
will
have a wing tank for those long, long trips. This will necessitate slanted
cabane struts. I have computed the W&B for these changes and see no problem.
A 2 in longer engine mount for the A-65 with the Hegy 7 1/2 lb wooden prop
and cabanes slanted rearward 3 1/2 inches.
Sure, I know you all think I nuts and your probably right but think of the
fun I'm having spending all our children's inheritance.
Will appreciate any and all comments on the subject but try and be nice.
Corky in beautiful Louisiana
Message 2
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Barry Davis" <bed@mindspring.com>
Does everyone go with the turnbuckles and cables, or are there other ways to make
these wires? It just about kills me to order $3000 worth of turnbuckles for
all six Piets. There's got to be a better way.
Does anyone have info on spoke nipples and solid wire? My Jr.Ace has solid wires
with cut threads (I am not builder of this plane).
One of our builders has a PA22 and it has smooth wires and compression fittings
on wing and tail feather flying wires. These fittings just squeeze the smooth
wires.
Barry
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Drag/Anti-Drag |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Craigo" <craigwilcox@peoplepc.com>
On Tue, 29 Apr 2003 10:31:19 -0400, "Barry Davis" wrote:
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Barry Davis"
> <bed@mindspring.com>
>
> Does everyone go with the turnbuckles and cables, or
> are there other ways to make these wires? It just
about
> kills me to order $3000 worth of turnbuckles for all
> six Piets. There's got to be a better way.
Barry - it is possible to go with solid wires and
left/right threads. I used AN665-21R and L terminal
ends on 3/16 ss wire, with lock nuts. You woild have
to get a LH die . . . .
Best of luck!
Craig
Lake Worth, FL
Bakeng Duce NX96CW
PeoplePC: It's for people. And it's just smart.
http://www.peoplepc.com
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Drag/Anti-Drag |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: cat_designs@juno.com
Have you thought of going to a manufacture and buying in bulk? I would think a
$3000 oder would meet the minimum order. I would love to get in on this if it
turns out to be cheaper and I bet others wood too.
Chris
Sacramento, CA
--- "Barry Davis" <bed@mindspring.com> wrote:
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Barry Davis" <bed@mindspring.com>
Does everyone go with the turnbuckles and cables, or are there other ways to make
these wires? It just about kills me to order $3000 worth of turnbuckles for
all six Piets. There's got to be a better way.
Does anyone have info on spoke nipples and solid wire? My Jr.Ace has solid wires
with cut threads (I am not builder of this plane).
One of our builders has a PA22 and it has smooth wires and compression fittings
on wing and tail feather flying wires. These fittings just squeeze the smooth
wires.
Barry
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Drag/Anti-Drag |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Les Schubert <leskarin@telus.net>
Cut threads in non upset wires would scare me. The notching effect of the
cut thread creates a significant stress riser and if the ends are not upset
(made larger) then you have also reduced the strength considerably. Given
as how these wires are long and vibrate in the wind fatigue life is
critical. Any motorcycle and old car spokes I have seen have rolled threads
in upset ends.
In bolts you don't particularly worry as they are always loaded in tension
if they are tightened properly and the joint is not overloaded. Often when
a bolt breaks it has become loose first. The shock loading and the fatigue
then cause the failure.
I guess in regards to the $500.00 per plane, your ass depends on it hanging
together and that is fine, just don't kill anyone else.
Regards
Les
At 10:31 AM 29/04/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Barry Davis" <bed@mindspring.com>
>
>Does everyone go with the turnbuckles and cables, or are there other ways
>to make these wires? It just about kills me to order $3000 worth of
>turnbuckles for all six Piets. There's got to be a better way.
>
>Does anyone have info on spoke nipples and solid wire? My Jr.Ace has solid
>wires with cut threads (I am not builder of this plane).
>
>One of our builders has a PA22 and it has smooth wires and compression
>fittings on wing and tail feather flying wires. These fittings just
>squeeze the smooth wires.
>
>Barry
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Drag/Anti-Drag |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper@imagedv.com>
The GN-1 calls for solid wire for drag/anti drag. I'll be doing mine with
that method. The ends of the wires are threaded and have forks. I believe
the Aeronca Champ is the same way.
DJ Vegh
N74DV
www.raptoronline.com
Mesa, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Barry Davis" <bed@mindspring.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Drag/Anti-Drag
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Barry Davis" <bed@mindspring.com>
>
> Does everyone go with the turnbuckles and cables, or are there other ways
to make these wires? It just about kills me to order $3000 worth of
turnbuckles for all six Piets. There's got to be a better way.
>
> Does anyone have info on spoke nipples and solid wire? My Jr.Ace has solid
wires with cut threads (I am not builder of this plane).
>
> One of our builders has a PA22 and it has smooth wires and compression
fittings on wing and tail feather flying wires. These fittings just squeeze
the smooth wires.
>
> Barry
>
>
This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for viewing by Half Price Hosting, a leading email and web hosting provider. For more information on an anti-virus email solution, visit <http://www.halfpricehosting.com/av.asp>.
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Drag/Anti-Drag |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
It might be interesting to note that the MacWhyte S.S. flying wires all had
cut threads per PMA.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Les Schubert" <leskarin@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Drag/Anti-Drag
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Les Schubert <leskarin@telus.net>
>
> Cut threads in non upset wires would scare me. The notching effect of the
> cut thread creates a significant stress riser and if the ends are not
upset
> (made larger) then you have also reduced the strength considerably. Given
> as how these wires are long and vibrate in the wind fatigue life is
> critical. Any motorcycle and old car spokes I have seen have rolled
threads
> in upset ends.
> In bolts you don't particularly worry as they are always loaded in tension
> if they are tightened properly and the joint is not overloaded. Often when
> a bolt breaks it has become loose first. The shock loading and the fatigue
> then cause the failure.
> I guess in regards to the $500.00 per plane, your ass depends on it
hanging
> together and that is fine, just don't kill anyone else.
> Regards
> Les
>
> At 10:31 AM 29/04/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> >--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Barry Davis" <bed@mindspring.com>
> >
> >Does everyone go with the turnbuckles and cables, or are there other ways
> >to make these wires? It just about kills me to order $3000 worth of
> >turnbuckles for all six Piets. There's got to be a better way.
> >
> >Does anyone have info on spoke nipples and solid wire? My Jr.Ace has
solid
> >wires with cut threads (I am not builder of this plane).
> >
> >One of our builders has a PA22 and it has smooth wires and compression
> >fittings on wing and tail feather flying wires. These fittings just
> >squeeze the smooth wires.
> >
> >Barry
> >
> >
>
>
Message 8
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
John wrote-
>My air drill is worth 300 bucks so don't go the cheap for airdrills.
There was a tip in either EAA 'Experimenter' or SAA 'To Fly' about adding a
small metal paddle or lever to the trigger of the cheap air drills to make
them more controllable than they are right out of the box with a tiny button
for control. Since I don't own either a cheap or an expensive air drill but
may in the future, has anyone tried the trigger trick and does it work?
Oscar Zuniga (do not archive)
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 9
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Barry Davis" <bed@mindspring.com>
My 2 cents
I bought a small sized air drill for airplane fun, cost about $165. It is
good quality and palm sized. I had a very thin and flexible 6' hose to use
at the drill. It is a joy to work with. I just finished adding a Horton STOL
on the '56 172. ( drilled about 400 holes)
Now the problem starts. I was over at a friends shop and helping with some
fittings. His drill was a little larger than mine, but worked great. It was
variable speed and smooth trigger etc. Then my friend really hurt my
feelings, he said he had purchased at that Home superwhatever for around
$30. Said the first brand he bought, the trigger was not very smooth, but
swapped it for the one he has now.
So I guess he can afford to wear out 5 1/2 drills to my one, but I am happy
with mine. It's gotta be better, it cost more......What?
Back to work
Barry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: air drills
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga"
<taildrags@hotmail.com>
>
> John wrote-
>
> >My air drill is worth 300 bucks so don't go the cheap for airdrills.
>
> There was a tip in either EAA 'Experimenter' or SAA 'To Fly' about adding
a
> small metal paddle or lever to the trigger of the cheap air drills to make
> them more controllable than they are right out of the box with a tiny
button
> for control. Since I don't own either a cheap or an expensive air drill
but
> may in the future, has anyone tried the trigger trick and does it work?
>
> Oscar Zuniga (do not archive)
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
Message 10
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: lshutks@webtv.net (Leon Stefan)
Barry, This isn't what you want to hear, but I scrounged all of my
turnbuckles at Oshkosh for about 5 bucks each. B & B aircraft of Gardner
Ks. ( Kansas City ) usually has a bunch on hand for around $8.95 ea.
913-884-5930. I don't know if that phone # is current. I know that the
address that I have is no good since they moved. I have a set of those
PA-22 compression tail wires that I'm saving for a future project and
they are WAY too heavy for the Piet's tail. Leon S.
Message 11
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Brants" <tmbrant@usfamily.net>
I noticed a post about cutting 4130 tubing with a wood band saw... Another way
is to use a plumbers tubing cutter.... Although they're meant for copper or
steel pipe, they do work on 4130 tube. You may ned to replace the cutter wheel
occasionally but it's mess free and saves a lot of space in the shop. The
thicker wall stuff gets pretty tough though....
For what it's worth.
Tom Brant, Minneapolis
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Drag/Anti-Drag |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979@naples.net>
You COULD go to Home Depot and get the $1.50 ones that Fisherman told us
about...
Ted
Laughing and ducking and running
----- Original Message -----
From: <cat_designs@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Drag/Anti-Drag
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: cat_designs@juno.com
>
>
> Have you thought of going to a manufacture and buying in bulk? I would
think a $3000 oder would meet the minimum order. I would love to get in on
this if it turns out to be cheaper and I bet others wood too.
>
>
> Chris
> Sacramento, CA
>
> --- "Barry Davis" <bed@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Barry Davis" <bed@mindspring.com>
>
> Does everyone go with the turnbuckles and cables, or are there other ways
to make these wires? It just about kills me to order $3000 worth of
turnbuckles for all six Piets. There's got to be a better way.
>
> Does anyone have info on spoke nipples and solid wire? My Jr.Ace has solid
wires with cut threads (I am not builder of this plane).
>
> One of our builders has a PA22 and it has smooth wires and compression
fittings on wing and tail feather flying wires. These fittings just squeeze
the smooth wires.
>
> Barry
>
>
> The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: straight axle builders |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979@naples.net>
Mike,
I just got a private response from a member of the list (who I will not name
since he responded privately) who said he used 1.5 x .065 for his axle. He
has been flying it for some time too.
Seems like anything will work. I wonder if anyone knows of any Piets that
had bending problems with a straight axle. If so, what size? We could then
come up with a minimum size limit.
Ted
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael D Cuy" <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: straight axle builders and the home shopping
network
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy
<Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
>
> Group--copying from Frank P.'s Sky Gypsy, I made my axle out of 1.5" OD x
> 0.200 4130 tube.
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Drag/Anti-Drag |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Another accepted method, is using 2 struded 6061-T6 "L" of 3/4" x 3/4"
and about .125" wall.
I in one side of the angle you assemble the cable, the other side faces
the side of the other angle already with the cable, make a hole in the
center of the "faces" for a AN 3 bolt and give tension for the cables,
he two faces are safetied with safety wire.
Saludos
Gary Gower
--- Craigo <craigwilcox@peoplepc.com> wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Craigo"
> <craigwilcox@peoplepc.com>
>
> On Tue, 29 Apr 2003 10:31:19 -0400, "Barry Davis" wrote:
>
> >
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Barry Davis"
> > <bed@mindspring.com>
> >
> > Does everyone go with the turnbuckles and cables, or
> > are there other ways to make these wires? It just
> about
> > kills me to order $3000 worth of turnbuckles for all
> > six Piets. There's got to be a better way.
> Barry - it is possible to go with solid wires and
> left/right threads. I used AN665-21R and L terminal
> ends on 3/16 ss wire, with lock nuts. You woild have
> to get a LH die . . . .
> Best of luck!
>
> Craig
> Lake Worth, FL
> Bakeng Duce NX96CW
> PeoplePC: It's for people. And it's just smart.
> http://www.peoplepc.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: straight axle builders |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Also with a maximum altitude (maybe in inches) to brake the flare. and
make a graphic. :-)
Saludos
Gary Gower
Do not archive.
--- Ted Brousseau <nfn00979@naples.net> wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ted Brousseau"
> <nfn00979@naples.net>
>
> Mike,
>
> I just got a private response from a member of the list (who I will
> not name
> since he responded privately) who said he used 1.5 x .065 for his
> axle. He
> has been flying it for some time too.
>
> Seems like anything will work. I wonder if anyone knows of any Piets
> that
> had bending problems with a straight axle. If so, what size? We
> could then
> come up with a minimum size limit.
>
>
> Ted
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael D Cuy" <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: straight axle builders and the home shopping
> network
>
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy
> <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
> >
> > Group--copying from Frank P.'s Sky Gypsy, I made my axle out of
> 1.5" OD x
> > 0.200 4130 tube.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Drag/Anti-Drag |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Isablcorky@aol.com
Ted,
Mine work fine. I took the F man's suggestion.
YKW YKW
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Fuse change from plans |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Richard Navratril" <horzpool@goldengate.net>
Les
I went out and weighed it out. So far 72 lb. with the landing gear brackets
installed. No brake pedals in yet.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Les Schubert" <leskarin@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fuse change from plans
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Les Schubert <leskarin@telus.net>
>
> Guys
> The stretched fuselage sounds like a god idea especially for us taller,
larger
> people these days. Being 6'4" and 230# I realized after some checking
> and trying on another guys Piet that I absolutely could not put it on as
> Bernie designed it. I was also concerned was gross weight so I simply
> removed the front cockpit. My wife said she had no intention of flying
> with me in it but she might consider flying it without me in it.
> For you guys who have stretched it what do you think your empty weight
> is going to come out at? Dick I see you have the basic fuselage finished.
> Can you please grab the bathroom scale and weigh it for us?
> It seems to me the stock fuselage weighs about 70lbs at the state you
> are at.
> I am planning to use a A65 continental that I have. I am planing to use
> a wing mounted tank so the C of G doesn't move around as the fuel
> load changes. Anything wrong with this?
> Thx
> Les
>
> At 04:42 PM 28/04/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Richard Navratril"
> ><horzpool@goldengate.net>
> >
> >Hey Corky
> >If BHP were kickin around today the Piet would be going thru some wild
> >experimentations. I'm not one to comment on the changes in width. But
on
> >my second fuse I got an additional 9.5" on length in the rear cockpit by
> >moving the seat back 1", reclining the seat 1.5", and using the original
> >plan for the bridge deck between cockpits. If you want to check it out
go
> >to www.cposeminars.com/plane01.html
> >This is a bit of a deviation from the piet plan, no fence wire or gate
> >hinges here.
> >
> >Dont be negitive,
> >Dick
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <Isablcorky@aol.com>
> >To: <pietenpol-list-digest@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuse change from plans
> >
> >
> > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Isablcorky@aol.com
> > >
> > > Pieters,
> > >
> > > Am asking all of you to put on you thinking caps and voice any
objections
> >to
> > > what I am about to write. I want tech reasons more than the
traditional "
> >BHP
> > > didn't do it that way". I particularly want to hear from those of you
in
> >the
> > > know aerodynamically as I would rather avoid creating a hazard.
> > >
> > > Tomorrow I begin laying out the fuse for RePiet. I will be using the
> >drawings
> > > for the long one but will vary it somewhat. The width will be 28
instead
> >of
> > > 24. The rear cockpit will be 4 inches longer from inst panel to seat
back
> >in
> > > rear pit than the short fuse or 1 in longer than the long fuse. I'll
> >borrow
> > > that inch from one of the rear bays.
> > > Also, but not firm, am considering a center section of 32 inches since
I
> >will
> > > have a wing tank for those long, long trips. This will necessitate
slanted
> > > cabane struts. I have computed the W&B for these changes and see no
> >problem.
> > > A 2 in longer engine mount for the A-65 with the Hegy 7 1/2 lb wooden
prop
> > > and cabanes slanted rearward 3 1/2 inches.
> > >
> > > Sure, I know you all think I nuts and your probably right but think of
the
> > > fun I'm having spending all our children's inheritance.
> > >
> > > Will appreciate any and all comments on the subject but try and be
nice.
> > >
> > > Corky in beautiful Louisiana
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 18
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
B&B is good folks to work with. In addition to their great price on
turnbuckles and AN hardware, they have really good prices on leather. I
wanted enough leather to make a couple of seat cushions and the leather trim
around the cockpit coaming. I talked with a regular leather shop and a few
square fet of leather was going to run me over $500. I bought an entire
cowhide from B&B for $125 at OSH last year. Enough to make seats for a half
dozen Piets.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Leon Stefan
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Turnbuckles
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: lshutks@webtv.net (Leon Stefan)
Barry, This isn't what you want to hear, but I scrounged all of my
turnbuckles at Oshkosh for about 5 bucks each. B & B aircraft of Gardner
Ks. ( Kansas City ) usually has a bunch on hand for around $8.95 ea.
913-884-5930. I don't know if that phone # is current. I know that the
address that I have is no good since they moved. I have a set of those
PA-22 compression tail wires that I'm saving for a future project and
they are WAY too heavy for the Piet's tail. Leon S.
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Fuse change from plans |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Isablcorky@aol.com
Les,
Isabelle has put her pretty little foot down HARD and said, "No, you're not
flying over water to Beliese to drink rum with the fisherman nor are you
going to fly over those Andies". So, I have a 9.3 alum fuel tank which will
fit a Piet center section. I don't remember what I paid for it but you can
have it if you want to pay the dreyage. If you can't afford it I'll pay the
dreyage.
YKW in YKW living positively
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Fuse change from plans |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Les Schubert <leskarin@telus.net>
Dick
Well that is great. I was wondering how it would affect the weight
I see it has little effect.
Les
At 08:02 PM 29/04/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Richard Navratril"
><horzpool@goldengate.net>
>
>Les
>I went out and weighed it out. So far 72 lb. with the landing gear brackets
>installed. No brake pedals in yet.
>Dick
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Les Schubert" <leskarin@telus.net>
>To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fuse change from plans
>
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Les Schubert <leskarin@telus.net>
> >
> > Guys
> > The stretched fuselage sounds like a god idea especially for us taller,
>larger
> > people these days. Being 6'4" and 230# I realized after some checking
> > and trying on another guys Piet that I absolutely could not put it on as
> > Bernie designed it. I was also concerned was gross weight so I simply
> > removed the front cockpit. My wife said she had no intention of flying
> > with me in it but she might consider flying it without me in it.
> > For you guys who have stretched it what do you think your empty weight
> > is going to come out at? Dick I see you have the basic fuselage finished.
> > Can you please grab the bathroom scale and weigh it for us?
> > It seems to me the stock fuselage weighs about 70lbs at the state you
> > are at.
> > I am planning to use a A65 continental that I have. I am planing to use
> > a wing mounted tank so the C of G doesn't move around as the fuel
> > load changes. Anything wrong with this?
> > Thx
> > Les
> >
> > At 04:42 PM 28/04/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> > >--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Richard Navratril"
> > ><horzpool@goldengate.net>
> > >
> > >Hey Corky
> > >If BHP were kickin around today the Piet would be going thru some wild
> > >experimentations. I'm not one to comment on the changes in width. But
>on
> > >my second fuse I got an additional 9.5" on length in the rear cockpit by
> > >moving the seat back 1", reclining the seat 1.5", and using the original
> > >plan for the bridge deck between cockpits. If you want to check it out
>go
> > >to www.cposeminars.com/plane01.html
> > >This is a bit of a deviation from the piet plan, no fence wire or gate
> > >hinges here.
> > >
> > >Dont be negitive,
> > >Dick
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: <Isablcorky@aol.com>
> > >To: <pietenpol-list-digest@matronics.com>
> > >Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuse change from plans
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Isablcorky@aol.com
> > > >
> > > > Pieters,
> > > >
> > > > Am asking all of you to put on you thinking caps and voice any
>objections
> > >to
> > > > what I am about to write. I want tech reasons more than the
>traditional "
> > >BHP
> > > > didn't do it that way". I particularly want to hear from those of you
>in
> > >the
> > > > know aerodynamically as I would rather avoid creating a hazard.
> > > >
> > > > Tomorrow I begin laying out the fuse for RePiet. I will be using the
> > >drawings
> > > > for the long one but will vary it somewhat. The width will be 28
>instead
> > >of
> > > > 24. The rear cockpit will be 4 inches longer from inst panel to seat
>back
> > >in
> > > > rear pit than the short fuse or 1 in longer than the long fuse. I'll
> > >borrow
> > > > that inch from one of the rear bays.
> > > > Also, but not firm, am considering a center section of 32 inches since
>I
> > >will
> > > > have a wing tank for those long, long trips. This will necessitate
>slanted
> > > > cabane struts. I have computed the W&B for these changes and see no
> > >problem.
> > > > A 2 in longer engine mount for the A-65 with the Hegy 7 1/2 lb wooden
>prop
> > > > and cabanes slanted rearward 3 1/2 inches.
> > > >
> > > > Sure, I know you all think I nuts and your probably right but think of
>the
> > > > fun I'm having spending all our children's inheritance.
> > > >
> > > > Will appreciate any and all comments on the subject but try and be
>nice.
> > > >
> > > > Corky in beautiful Louisiana
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
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