Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:20 AM - Re: straight axle builders (John Dilatush)
2. 05:50 AM - Re: straight axle builders (Gadd, Skip)
3. 06:04 AM - Drag-anti drag wires. (lshutks@webtv.net (Leon Stefan))
4. 07:06 AM - Re: straight axle builders (rambog@erols.com)
5. 05:04 PM - Re: Drag/Anti-Drag (walter evans)
6. 07:48 PM - Re: straight axle builders (Ted Brousseau)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: straight axle builders |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "John Dilatush" <dilatush@amigo.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979@naples.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: straight axle builders
++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Ted,
A nut used on the end of the axle can be used to fine adjust the axial
loading of the tapered bearings. It is a similar setup to that used on an
automobile. Simply using a flange and pin setup does not allow this
adjustment and the wheel would probably wobble as it rotated.
John
++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ted Brousseau"
<nfn00979@naples.net>
>
> Thanks John.
>
> This brings up a question. If motorcycle type wheels are going to be used
> on a straight axle what is the need for threading a nut. Wouldn't a
simple
> flange drilled and bolted through the axle be enough?
>
> Ted
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Dilatush" <dilatush@amigo.net>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: straight axle builders
>
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "John Dilatush"
<dilatush@amigo.net>
> >
> > > Ted,
> >
> > I used 4130 alloy tubing, 1 1/2" x 1.25" wall thickness. I then welded
in
> > the ends some J-3 Cub axles so that I could use tapered bearings and a
Cub
> > axle nut. This assembly then went into hubs for spoked wheels that I
made
> > up.
> >
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | straight axle builders |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gadd, Skip" <Skip.Gadd@ssa.gov>
Ted,
The Flying and Glider shows a flange/collar welded up with 12 gage, and 1/4
inch bolt.
This is for both the Air-Camper and Sky Scout, one with a straight axle and
the other with split axle. The plans call-out for 4 of the collars for the
straight axle.
Seems like you could use different thickness washers as shims to get the
correct tightness.
Skip
-
>This brings up a question. If motorcycle type wheels are going to be used
on a straight axle >what is the need for threading a nut. Wouldn't a simple
flange drilled and bolted through the >axle be enough?
>Ted
Message 3
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Subject: | Drag-anti drag wires. |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: lshutks@webtv.net (Leon Stefan)
The modernized Corbin Aces redrawn by Poberzney use hardware store eye
bolts with the loop welded shut, mounted as described by John Mcnarry,
then cables are used instead of rod. Eye bolt ends are double nutted,
lock nut over a regular nut used as a jam nut. Leon S.
Message 4
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Subject: | straight axle builders |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "rambog@erols.com" <rambog@erols.com>
Shims will not work if you are using tapered bearings. Tapered bearings
must be drawn up tight against the race. The F&G Manual shows wheels with
bushings. Some older aircraft wheels have straight bearings, but most
modern wheels have tapered bearings. I don't know what motorcycle wheels
have, or whether it differs from one to another.
Gene
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Gadd, Skip Skip.Gadd@ssa.gov
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: straight axle builders
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gadd, Skip" <Skip.Gadd@ssa.gov>
Ted,
The Flying and Glider shows a flange/collar welded up with 12 gage, and 1/4
inch bolt.
This is for both the Air-Camper and Sky Scout, one with a straight axle and
the other with split axle. The plans call-out for 4 of the collars for the
straight axle.
Seems like you could use different thickness washers as shims to get the
correct tightness.
Skip
-
>This brings up a question. If motorcycle type wheels are going to be used
on a straight axle >what is the need for threading a nut. Wouldn't a simple
flange drilled and bolted through the >axle be enough?
>Ted
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Drag/Anti-Drag |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "walter evans" <wbeevans@worldnet.att.net>
John,
This is how my AP suggested I do the wings to get around the turnbuckles.
But I opted to go with original design.
walt
13 1/2 down out of 25
----- Original Message -----
From: "John McNarry" <jmcnarry@escape.ca>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Drag/Anti-Drag
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "John McNarry" <jmcnarry@escape.ca>
>
> The Christavia, a Canadian design, uses solid wires with threaded ends and
> instead of forks uses motorcycle spoke nipples.
> The nipples pass through the spar on the neutral axis and bear against
> washers on angled blocks.
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of DJ Vegh
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Drag/Anti-Drag
>
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper@imagedv.com>
>
> The GN-1 calls for solid wire for drag/anti drag. I'll be doing mine
with
> that method. The ends of the wires are threaded and have forks. I
believe
> the Aeronca Champ is the same way.
>
> DJ Vegh
> N74DV
> www.raptoronline.com
> Mesa, AZ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Barry Davis" <bed@mindspring.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Drag/Anti-Drag
>
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Barry Davis" <bed@mindspring.com>
> >
> > Does everyone go with the turnbuckles and cables, or are there other
ways
> to make these wires? It just about kills me to order $3000 worth of
> turnbuckles for all six Piets. There's got to be a better way.
> >
> > Does anyone have info on spoke nipples and solid wire? My Jr.Ace has
solid
> wires with cut threads (I am not builder of this plane).
> >
> > One of our builders has a PA22 and it has smooth wires and compression
> fittings on wing and tail feather flying wires. These fittings just
squeeze
> the smooth wires.
> >
> > Barry
> >
> >
>
>
> This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for viewing by
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>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: straight axle builders |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979@naples.net>
Good point, it would make a difference if they had tapered bearings instead
of bushings. This thing gets more complicated with each turn.
Thanks for the great answers.
Ted
----- Original Message -----
From: <rambog@erols.com>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: straight axle builders
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "rambog@erols.com"
<rambog@erols.com>
>
>
> Shims will not work if you are using tapered bearings. Tapered bearings
> must be drawn up tight against the race. The F&G Manual shows wheels with
> bushings. Some older aircraft wheels have straight bearings, but most
> modern wheels have tapered bearings. I don't know what motorcycle wheels
> have, or whether it differs from one to another.
>
> Gene
>
>
> Original Message:
> -----------------
> From: Gadd, Skip Skip.Gadd@ssa.gov
> Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 07:49:47 -0500
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: straight axle builders
>
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gadd, Skip" <Skip.Gadd@ssa.gov>
>
> Ted,
> The Flying and Glider shows a flange/collar welded up with 12 gage, and
1/4
> inch bolt.
> This is for both the Air-Camper and Sky Scout, one with a straight axle
and
> the other with split axle. The plans call-out for 4 of the collars for the
> straight axle.
> Seems like you could use different thickness washers as shims to get the
> correct tightness.
> Skip
>
> -
> >This brings up a question. If motorcycle type wheels are going to be
used
> on a straight axle >what is the need for threading a nut. Wouldn't a
simple
> flange drilled and bolted through the >axle be enough?
>
> >Ted
>
>
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