Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:53 AM - Re: Landing gear conversion (Jack Phillips)
2. 02:57 AM - Re: Landing gear conversion (Jack Phillips)
3. 04:31 AM - Re: off topic (Gene Rambo)
4. 05:56 AM - EPOXY REACTION (rhartwig11@juno.com)
5. 06:20 AM - Re: EPOXY REACTION (John_Duprey@vmed.org)
6. 06:47 AM - Re: off topic (Christian Bobka)
7. 08:05 AM - Re: Re: off topic (Ken Anderson)
8. 10:36 AM - Re: EPOXY REACTION (Alex Sloan)
9. 11:07 AM - Re: EPOXY REACTION (mark moir)
10. 11:08 AM - Re: EPOXY REACTION (mark moir)
11. 01:46 PM - Re: Re: off topic (Gene Rambo)
12. 04:23 PM - Re: torque tube question (Gene Rambo)
13. 04:38 PM - Re: EPOXY REACTION (Kip & Beth Gardner)
14. 05:01 PM - Re: Re: torque tube question (Hubbard, Eugene)
15. 05:44 PM - Re: Re: torque tube question (walter evans)
16. 07:04 PM - Re: Re: torque tube question (Gene Rambo)
17. 08:03 PM - straight gear (Richard Navratril)
18. 08:18 PM - Re: Re: torque tube question (Waytogopiet@aol.com)
19. 08:59 PM - Re: straight gear (Doyle K. Combs)
Message 1
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Subject: | Landing gear conversion |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
Hi Ted,
I used spruce, laminated from 1/4" thick pieces using resorcinol glue. I
routed a groove in each of the inner pieces that when assembled formed a
hollow opening that gave me a place to run my brakeline down each rear
strut.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ted
Brousseau
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Landing gear conversion
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979@naples.net>
Thanks Jack,
By the way I looked at a picture of your gear legs. Wow, are they nice.
What kind of wood did you use. Any other pictures showing the attach
fittings?
Ted
Message 2
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Subject: | Landing gear conversion |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
You are correct John,
When talking about the bracing wires on the FlyBaby, I was referring to the
wires that brace the landing ear, similar to those on the Pietenpol (and the
Curtiss Jenny), not the flying wires that attach to the axle on the Fly
Baby. The Fly Baby has no suspension at all, other than the low pressure
8.00 x 4 tires.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
McNarry
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Landing gear conversion
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "John McNarry" <jmcnarry@escape.ca>
I am sad to hear of another of the early greats in home building passing.
The gear as in the F&G is well braced as the front view shows.
The cross bracing of the gear legs, in tension with cables, is held in
compression by the horizontal spreader bars each side of the axle.
As you have indicated Jack, a very stout design!
The only catch I see is that the inclusion of brakes to the design requires
some method of preventing axle rotation.
Mike Cuy has a very neat solution to this.
The external bracing wires as on the Fly Baby would not work on the BHP
design as the axle is held down against the bottom of the V struts by the
bungees. The suspension motion requires the V to move down below the axle as
the "Jounce" displaces the axle. The bungees return the axle to the rest
position "rebound".
The Fly Baby has rigid mounting of the axle no suspension.
John
Message 3
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
I have a brand new C-140 rudder horn still in the Univair package that I
don't need.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Anderson" <piet4ken@mindspring.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: off topic
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ken Anderson"
<piet4ken@mindspring.com>
>
> I have a request for the group.
>
> Trying to find a rudder horn or rudder if that's what it takes for a C-120
> Or club plane is in need of one. the annual turned up a cracked rudder
horn
> Checked barnstormers and c140.com sent a few emails with no response
>
> Please respond off list
> do not archive
> Thanks
> Ken Anderson
>
>
Message 4
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: rhartwig11@juno.com
Epoxy resin can be hazardous to your health and it is too bad that the
manufacturers don't put this in big bold letters on the label of their
product (without the government telling them.) The mild odor of epoxy
resin lulls people into thinking that it will do no harm. If epoxy had
the nasty smell of polyester resin people might be more careful with it.
Severe reactions are a real possibility. You should always use gloves
such as latex (those that do not have powered latex) or nitrile and it is
a good idea to apply barrier cream on your hands before putting the
gloves on. Work in a well ventilated area and wear a cartridge
respirator that filters out chemicals. The hardener contains the bad
stuff.
Some epoxy brands advertise that they do not contain the hazardous
substance Methyleneadianiline (MDA). These may be safer, I don't know,
but I would still take the above precautions if using them and check (and
test) to see if they are good for bonding wood. T-88 and West System are
formulated for excellent wetting and bonding of wood and good water
resistance when cured--I don't know if they contain MDA..
You may get a rash the first time you use epoxy. You may get a reaction
the hundredth time you use it. You may never get a reaction. You may
have health consequences from it ten or twenty years from now--and you
may not. Psoriasis and other debilitating diseases are a possibility.
Why take a chance? A box of gloves is about ten bucks and a respirator
is about $35 bucks. Some boat builders can no longer use their boats
because of sensitivity to epoxy. It would be a shame if you spent 2000
hours of your life and $10,000 of your hard earned money and then could
not even sit in your creation.
I would read carefully the warnings on carb or brake cleaner or other
solvents before using them. These chemicals might cause their own
problems. Vinegar and/or soapy water are the safe bet for cleaning your
hands, but prevention is the best way to go.
Ken gives some good advice on handling epoxy and please read Alex's post,
then contemplate how you are going to handle the stuff.
Dick H.
Time: 06:33:10 AM PST US
From: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: T-88 cleanup
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
There is an easier way to get your hands clean. I have made a point of
wearing a good fitting pair of surgical latex gloves, I get these from a
local boat builder. For my tools, I wipe the excess off with shop towels
and then wipe them down with a cloth and some paint & varnish remover.
I use small mixing cups for the glue so I just throw them away along with
the mixing sticks ( popsicle sticks) so my clean up is very light.
Just throwing in my 10 cents worth,(7.5 cents Canadian)
I have also just updated my web site for anyone that's interested, added
engine.
http://home.cogeco.ca/%7Epietbuilder/index.htm
Ken
GN1 2992
Canada
Ken,
Latex gloves sold in the paint dept of Wal-Mart is what I used when I
built my wood ultralight. I sprinkled talc on them when I was done before
I
took them off. I could re use them 3 or 4 times. I never had to clean T88
off my hands.
Wayne McIntosh Lafayette IN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Rickards" <krickards@cvci.com>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: T-88 cleanup
Time: 07:38:31 AM PST US
From: "Alex Sloan" <alexms1@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: T-88 cleanup
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Alex Sloan"
<alexms1@bellsouth.net>
DJ,
I had a serious reaction to the T-88 glue last fall. Do you think using
invisible gloves would preclude this occurring again?
Alex Sloan
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: EPOXY REACTION |
05/07/2003 09:20:07 AM
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: John_Duprey@vmed.org
While we are on the subject of allergic reactions to chemicals, I would
reccomend using a latex free glove, the medical profession is switching
away from Latex gloves due to so many people developing severe alergies to
latex. Just my two cents... I know this as I work for a large health care
provider.
John Duprey
rhartwig11@juno.com@matronics.com on 05/07/2003 08:55:20 AM
Please respond to pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent by: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Pietenpol-List: EPOXY REACTION
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: rhartwig11@juno.com
Epoxy resin can be hazardous to your health and it is too bad that the
manufacturers don't put this in big bold letters on the label of their
product (without the government telling them.) The mild odor of epoxy
resin lulls people into thinking that it will do no harm. If epoxy had
the nasty smell of polyester resin people might be more careful with it.
Severe reactions are a real possibility. You should always use gloves
such as latex (those that do not have powered latex) or nitrile and it is
a good idea to apply barrier cream on your hands before putting the
gloves on. Work in a well ventilated area and wear a cartridge
respirator that filters out chemicals. The hardener contains the bad
stuff.
Some epoxy brands advertise that they do not contain the hazardous
substance Methyleneadianiline (MDA). These may be safer, I don't know,
but I would still take the above precautions if using them and check (and
test) to see if they are good for bonding wood. T-88 and West System are
formulated for excellent wetting and bonding of wood and good water
resistance when cured--I don't know if they contain MDA..
You may get a rash the first time you use epoxy. You may get a reaction
the hundredth time you use it. You may never get a reaction. You may
have health consequences from it ten or twenty years from now--and you
may not. Psoriasis and other debilitating diseases are a possibility.
Why take a chance? A box of gloves is about ten bucks and a respirator
is about $35 bucks. Some boat builders can no longer use their boats
because of sensitivity to epoxy. It would be a shame if you spent 2000
hours of your life and $10,000 of your hard earned money and then could
not even sit in your creation.
I would read carefully the warnings on carb or brake cleaner or other
solvents before using them. These chemicals might cause their own
problems. Vinegar and/or soapy water are the safe bet for cleaning your
hands, but prevention is the best way to go.
Ken gives some good advice on handling epoxy and please read Alex's post,
then contemplate how you are going to handle the stuff.
Dick H.
Time: 06:33:10 AM PST US
From: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: T-88 cleanup
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
There is an easier way to get your hands clean. I have made a point of
wearing a good fitting pair of surgical latex gloves, I get these from a
local boat builder. For my tools, I wipe the excess off with shop towels
and then wipe them down with a cloth and some paint & varnish remover.
I use small mixing cups for the glue so I just throw them away along with
the mixing sticks ( popsicle sticks) so my clean up is very light.
Just throwing in my 10 cents worth,(7.5 cents Canadian)
I have also just updated my web site for anyone that's interested, added
engine.
http://home.cogeco.ca/%7Epietbuilder/index.htm
Ken
GN1 2992
Canada
Ken,
Latex gloves sold in the paint dept of Wal-Mart is what I used when I
built my wood ultralight. I sprinkled talc on them when I was done before
I
took them off. I could re use them 3 or 4 times. I never had to clean T88
off my hands.
Wayne McIntosh Lafayette IN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Rickards" <krickards@cvci.com>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: T-88 cleanup
Time: 07:38:31 AM PST US
From: "Alex Sloan" <alexms1@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: T-88 cleanup
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Alex Sloan"
<alexms1@bellsouth.net>
DJ,
I had a serious reaction to the T-88 glue last fall. Do you think using
invisible gloves would preclude this occurring again?
Alex Sloan
Message 6
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Christian Bobka" <bobka@charter.net>
Gene,
How much for the C-140 rudder horn?
I have a C-140 that needs one.
chris bobka
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gene
Rambo
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: off topic
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
I have a brand new C-140 rudder horn still in the Univair package that I
don't need.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Anderson" <piet4ken@mindspring.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: off topic
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ken Anderson"
<piet4ken@mindspring.com>
>
> I have a request for the group.
>
> Trying to find a rudder horn or rudder if that's what it takes for a C-120
> Or club plane is in need of one. the annual turned up a cracked rudder
horn
> Checked barnstormers and c140.com sent a few emails with no response
>
> Please respond off list
> do not archive
> Thanks
> Ken Anderson
>
>
Message 7
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Anderson <piet4ken@mindspring.com>
Gene
How much for it?
Ken
-------Original Message-------
From: Gene Rambo <rambog@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: off topic
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
I have a brand new C-140 rudder horn still in the Univair package that I
don't need.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Anderson" <piet4ken@mindspring.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: off topic
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ken Anderson"
<piet4ken@mindspring.com>
>
> I have a request for the group.
>
> Trying to find a rudder horn or rudder if that's what it takes for a
C-120
> Or club plane is in need of one. the annual turned up a cracked rudder
horn
> Checked barnstormers and c140.com sent a few emails with no response
>
> Please respond off list
> do not archive
> Thanks
> Ken Anderson
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/subscription">http://www.matronics.com/subscription
href="http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm">http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
href="http://www.matronics.com/search">http://www.matronics.com/search
href="http://www.matronics.com/browse/pietenpol-list">http://www.matronics.com/browse/pietenpol-list
href="http://www.matronics.com/archives">http://www.matronics.com/archives
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href="http://www.matronics.com/emaillists">http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: EPOXY REACTION |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Alex Sloan" <alexms1@bellsouth.net>
Dick H..
Thanks,
Alex S.
----- Original Message -----
From: <rhartwig11@juno.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: EPOXY REACTION
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: rhartwig11@juno.com
>
> Epoxy resin can be hazardous to your health and it is too bad that the
> manufacturers don't put this in big bold letters on the label of their
> product (without the government telling them.) The mild odor of epoxy
> resin lulls people into thinking that it will do no harm. If epoxy had
> the nasty smell of polyester resin people might be more careful with it.
> Severe reactions are a real possibility. You should always use gloves
> such as latex (those that do not have powered latex) or nitrile and it is
> a good idea to apply barrier cream on your hands before putting the
> gloves on. Work in a well ventilated area and wear a cartridge
> respirator that filters out chemicals. The hardener contains the bad
> stuff.
>
> Some epoxy brands advertise that they do not contain the hazardous
> substance Methyleneadianiline (MDA). These may be safer, I don't know,
> but I would still take the above precautions if using them and check (and
> test) to see if they are good for bonding wood. T-88 and West System are
> formulated for excellent wetting and bonding of wood and good water
> resistance when cured--I don't know if they contain MDA..
>
> You may get a rash the first time you use epoxy. You may get a reaction
> the hundredth time you use it. You may never get a reaction. You may
> have health consequences from it ten or twenty years from now--and you
> may not. Psoriasis and other debilitating diseases are a possibility.
> Why take a chance? A box of gloves is about ten bucks and a respirator
> is about $35 bucks. Some boat builders can no longer use their boats
> because of sensitivity to epoxy. It would be a shame if you spent 2000
> hours of your life and $10,000 of your hard earned money and then could
> not even sit in your creation.
>
> I would read carefully the warnings on carb or brake cleaner or other
> solvents before using them. These chemicals might cause their own
> problems. Vinegar and/or soapy water are the safe bet for cleaning your
> hands, but prevention is the best way to go.
>
> Ken gives some good advice on handling epoxy and please read Alex's post,
> then contemplate how you are going to handle the stuff.
>
> Dick H.
>
> Time: 06:33:10 AM PST US
> From: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: T-88 cleanup
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
>
> There is an easier way to get your hands clean. I have made a point of
> wearing a good fitting pair of surgical latex gloves, I get these from a
> local boat builder. For my tools, I wipe the excess off with shop towels
> and then wipe them down with a cloth and some paint & varnish remover.
>
> I use small mixing cups for the glue so I just throw them away along with
> the mixing sticks ( popsicle sticks) so my clean up is very light.
>
> Just throwing in my 10 cents worth,(7.5 cents Canadian)
>
> I have also just updated my web site for anyone that's interested, added
> engine.
>
> http://home.cogeco.ca/%7Epietbuilder/index.htm
>
>
> Ken
>
>
> GN1 2992
> Canada
>
>
> Ken,
> Latex gloves sold in the paint dept of Wal-Mart is what I used when I
> built my wood ultralight. I sprinkled talc on them when I was done before
> I
> took them off. I could re use them 3 or 4 times. I never had to clean T88
> off my hands.
> Wayne McIntosh Lafayette IN
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Rickards" <krickards@cvci.com>
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: T-88 cleanup
>
> Time: 07:38:31 AM PST US
> From: "Alex Sloan" <alexms1@bellsouth.net>
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: T-88 cleanup
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Alex Sloan"
> <alexms1@bellsouth.net>
>
> DJ,
> I had a serious reaction to the T-88 glue last fall. Do you think using
> invisible gloves would preclude this occurring again?
> Alex Sloan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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|
Subject: | Re: EPOXY REACTION |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "mark moir" <iammarktheman@msn.com>
After many years working in aircraft depots for the Air Force I have come to
depend highly on the information in the MSDS (material safety data sheet).
Each one of the chemicals that we use is required by OSHA to have one of
these available to us if we ask for it. Sometimes it scares me half to death
to see some of the stuff that is in there. It gives the chemical makeup of
the product, "known" health hazards and protective measures to take when
using them. I am not sure where the average guy would find them but I am
certain that you have access to them!
>From: "Alex Sloan" <alexms1@bellsouth.net>
>Reply-To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: EPOXY REACTION
>Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 09:22:48 -0500
>
>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Alex Sloan" <alexms1@bellsouth.net>
>
>Dick H..
>Thanks,
>Alex S.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <rhartwig11@juno.com>
>To: <pietenpol-list-digest@matronics.com>
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: EPOXY REACTION
>
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: rhartwig11@juno.com
> >
> > Epoxy resin can be hazardous to your health and it is too bad that the
> > manufacturers don't put this in big bold letters on the label of their
> > product (without the government telling them.) The mild odor of epoxy
> > resin lulls people into thinking that it will do no harm. If epoxy had
> > the nasty smell of polyester resin people might be more careful with it.
> > Severe reactions are a real possibility. You should always use gloves
> > such as latex (those that do not have powered latex) or nitrile and it
>is
> > a good idea to apply barrier cream on your hands before putting the
> > gloves on. Work in a well ventilated area and wear a cartridge
> > respirator that filters out chemicals. The hardener contains the bad
> > stuff.
> >
> > Some epoxy brands advertise that they do not contain the hazardous
> > substance Methyleneadianiline (MDA). These may be safer, I don't know,
> > but I would still take the above precautions if using them and check
>(and
> > test) to see if they are good for bonding wood. T-88 and West System are
> > formulated for excellent wetting and bonding of wood and good water
> > resistance when cured--I don't know if they contain MDA..
> >
> > You may get a rash the first time you use epoxy. You may get a reaction
> > the hundredth time you use it. You may never get a reaction. You may
> > have health consequences from it ten or twenty years from now--and you
> > may not. Psoriasis and other debilitating diseases are a possibility.
> > Why take a chance? A box of gloves is about ten bucks and a respirator
> > is about $35 bucks. Some boat builders can no longer use their boats
> > because of sensitivity to epoxy. It would be a shame if you spent 2000
> > hours of your life and $10,000 of your hard earned money and then could
> > not even sit in your creation.
> >
> > I would read carefully the warnings on carb or brake cleaner or other
> > solvents before using them. These chemicals might cause their own
> > problems. Vinegar and/or soapy water are the safe bet for cleaning your
> > hands, but prevention is the best way to go.
> >
> > Ken gives some good advice on handling epoxy and please read Alex's
>post,
> > then contemplate how you are going to handle the stuff.
> >
> > Dick H.
> >
> > Time: 06:33:10 AM PST US
> > From: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
> > Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: T-88 cleanup
> >
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
> >
> > There is an easier way to get your hands clean. I have made a point of
> > wearing a good fitting pair of surgical latex gloves, I get these from a
> > local boat builder. For my tools, I wipe the excess off with shop
>towels
> > and then wipe them down with a cloth and some paint & varnish remover.
> >
> > I use small mixing cups for the glue so I just throw them away along
>with
> > the mixing sticks ( popsicle sticks) so my clean up is very light.
> >
> > Just throwing in my 10 cents worth,(7.5 cents Canadian)
> >
> > I have also just updated my web site for anyone that's interested, added
> > engine.
> >
> > http://home.cogeco.ca/%7Epietbuilder/index.htm
> >
> >
> > Ken
> >
> >
> > GN1 2992
> > Canada
> >
> >
> > Ken,
> > Latex gloves sold in the paint dept of Wal-Mart is what I used when
>I
> > built my wood ultralight. I sprinkled talc on them when I was done
>before
> > I
> > took them off. I could re use them 3 or 4 times. I never had to clean
>T88
> > off my hands.
> > Wayne McIntosh Lafayette IN
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Ken Rickards" <krickards@cvci.com>
> > Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: T-88 cleanup
> >
> > Time: 07:38:31 AM PST US
> > From: "Alex Sloan" <alexms1@bellsouth.net>
> > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: T-88 cleanup
> >
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Alex Sloan"
> > <alexms1@bellsouth.net>
> >
> > DJ,
> > I had a serious reaction to the T-88 glue last fall. Do you think using
> > invisible gloves would preclude this occurring again?
> > Alex Sloan
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: EPOXY REACTION |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "mark moir" <iammarktheman@msn.com>
After many years working in aircraft depots for the Air Force I have come to
depend highly on the information in the MSDS (material safety data sheet).
Each one of the chemicals that we use is required by OSHA to have one of
these available to us if we ask for it. Sometimes it scares me half to death
to see some of the stuff that is in there. It gives the chemical makeup of
the product, "known" health hazards and protective measures to take when
using them. I am not sure where the average guy would find them but I am
certain that you have access to them!
>From: "Alex Sloan" <alexms1@bellsouth.net>
>Reply-To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: EPOXY REACTION
>Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 09:22:48 -0500
>
>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Alex Sloan" <alexms1@bellsouth.net>
>
>Dick H..
>Thanks,
>Alex S.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <rhartwig11@juno.com>
>To: <pietenpol-list-digest@matronics.com>
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: EPOXY REACTION
>
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: rhartwig11@juno.com
> >
> > Epoxy resin can be hazardous to your health and it is too bad that the
> > manufacturers don't put this in big bold letters on the label of their
> > product (without the government telling them.) The mild odor of epoxy
> > resin lulls people into thinking that it will do no harm. If epoxy had
> > the nasty smell of polyester resin people might be more careful with it.
> > Severe reactions are a real possibility. You should always use gloves
> > such as latex (those that do not have powered latex) or nitrile and it
>is
> > a good idea to apply barrier cream on your hands before putting the
> > gloves on. Work in a well ventilated area and wear a cartridge
> > respirator that filters out chemicals. The hardener contains the bad
> > stuff.
> >
> > Some epoxy brands advertise that they do not contain the hazardous
> > substance Methyleneadianiline (MDA). These may be safer, I don't know,
> > but I would still take the above precautions if using them and check
>(and
> > test) to see if they are good for bonding wood. T-88 and West System are
> > formulated for excellent wetting and bonding of wood and good water
> > resistance when cured--I don't know if they contain MDA..
> >
> > You may get a rash the first time you use epoxy. You may get a reaction
> > the hundredth time you use it. You may never get a reaction. You may
> > have health consequences from it ten or twenty years from now--and you
> > may not. Psoriasis and other debilitating diseases are a possibility.
> > Why take a chance? A box of gloves is about ten bucks and a respirator
> > is about $35 bucks. Some boat builders can no longer use their boats
> > because of sensitivity to epoxy. It would be a shame if you spent 2000
> > hours of your life and $10,000 of your hard earned money and then could
> > not even sit in your creation.
> >
> > I would read carefully the warnings on carb or brake cleaner or other
> > solvents before using them. These chemicals might cause their own
> > problems. Vinegar and/or soapy water are the safe bet for cleaning your
> > hands, but prevention is the best way to go.
> >
> > Ken gives some good advice on handling epoxy and please read Alex's
>post,
> > then contemplate how you are going to handle the stuff.
> >
> > Dick H.
> >
> > Time: 06:33:10 AM PST US
> > From: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
> > Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: T-88 cleanup
> >
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
> >
> > There is an easier way to get your hands clean. I have made a point of
> > wearing a good fitting pair of surgical latex gloves, I get these from a
> > local boat builder. For my tools, I wipe the excess off with shop
>towels
> > and then wipe them down with a cloth and some paint & varnish remover.
> >
> > I use small mixing cups for the glue so I just throw them away along
>with
> > the mixing sticks ( popsicle sticks) so my clean up is very light.
> >
> > Just throwing in my 10 cents worth,(7.5 cents Canadian)
> >
> > I have also just updated my web site for anyone that's interested, added
> > engine.
> >
> > http://home.cogeco.ca/%7Epietbuilder/index.htm
> >
> >
> > Ken
> >
> >
> > GN1 2992
> > Canada
> >
> >
> > Ken,
> > Latex gloves sold in the paint dept of Wal-Mart is what I used when
>I
> > built my wood ultralight. I sprinkled talc on them when I was done
>before
> > I
> > took them off. I could re use them 3 or 4 times. I never had to clean
>T88
> > off my hands.
> > Wayne McIntosh Lafayette IN
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Ken Rickards" <krickards@cvci.com>
> > Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: T-88 cleanup
> >
> > Time: 07:38:31 AM PST US
> > From: "Alex Sloan" <alexms1@bellsouth.net>
> > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: T-88 cleanup
> >
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Alex Sloan"
> > <alexms1@bellsouth.net>
> >
> > DJ,
> > I had a serious reaction to the T-88 glue last fall. Do you think using
> > invisible gloves would preclude this occurring again?
> > Alex Sloan
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
I don't know, do you know what Univair asks for them? What would you be
comfortable with?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Anderson" <piet4ken@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Pietenpol-List: off topic
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Anderson
<piet4ken@mindspring.com>
>
> Gene
>
> How much for it?
>
> Ken
> -------Original Message-------
> From: Gene Rambo <rambog@erols.com>
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: off topic
>
> >
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
>
> I have a brand new C-140 rudder horn still in the Univair package that I
> don't need.
>
> Gene
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Anderson" <piet4ken@mindspring.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: off topic
>
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ken Anderson"
> <piet4ken@mindspring.com>
> >
> > I have a request for the group.
> >
> > Trying to find a rudder horn or rudder if that's what it takes for a
> C-120
> > Or club plane is in need of one. the annual turned up a cracked rudder
> horn
> > Checked barnstormers and c140.com sent a few emails with no response
> >
> > Please respond off list
> > do not archive
> > Thanks
> > Ken Anderson
> >
> >
>
>
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Message 12
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Subject: | Re: torque tube question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
I have seen a number of people talk about putting a shim under the forward
torque tube bearing to raise it up off the floor. I always assumed that
this was because the torque tube touched something, most likely where it
passes through the back of the front seat between the "V" formed by the
square spruce diagonal braces. Is this correct?
My torque tube sits flat on the floor at both the front and back ends
without a shim. It did touch slightly at the front seat back, but a light
touch with a small sanding drum gave it clearance. My problem is that with
the interconnect between the front and rear control sticks, the interconnect
hits the "V" brace on the side that it is on with what appears to be a very
small aileron deflection.
Have some of you had this problem? I am wondering whether the shim under
the front bearing may have been to raise the torque tube up so that the
interconnect hits the diagonal later, or maybe some of you have "jogged" the
interconnect so that it does not hit, or maybe whether the aileron travel I
have is sufficient and I am worrying about nothing.
Sound familiar to anyone??
Gene
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: EPOXY REACTION |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Kip & Beth Gardner <kipandbeth@earthlink.net>
At 2:06 PM -0400 05/07/03, mark moir wrote:
>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "mark moir" <iammarktheman@msn.com>
>
>After many years working in aircraft depots for the Air Force I have come to
>depend highly on the information in the MSDS (material safety data sheet).
>Each one of the chemicals that we use is required by OSHA to have one of
>these available to us if we ask for it. Sometimes it scares me half to death
>to see some of the stuff that is in there. It gives the chemical makeup of
>the product, "known" health hazards and protective measures to take when
>using them. I am not sure where the average guy would find them but I am
>certain that you have access to them!
If the product is something that the manufacturer is required to have an
MSDS for, they are required by law to provide you a copy if you request it.
Some companies make them available on their web sites, if you know to look
for them. For complex compunds such as epoxies and brake cleaner, this is
probably the best way to go.
Also, several major universities maintain on-line repositories of MSDS's
for virtually every chemical ever made that requires one. I believe my
institution, Ohio State is one of them (www.ohio-state.edu). You can get to
the database by going there & then searching the campus web site - I think
it's part of the web pages for what I think is called the Environmental
Health & Safety Office. You can also do a Google search of 'Material Data
Safety Sheet' & get directly to several of the different university
database web pages.
Kip Gardner
North Canton, OH
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: torque tube question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Hubbard, Eugene" <ehubbard@titan.com>
Sounds very familiar. I don't know how it ever worked in the plans
configuration, but if you cross the interconnect from the left side of the
rear stick to the right side of the front stick, the problem goes away.
I had to shim the torque tube a bit to keep it from hitting the ash cross
piece.
Gene Hubbard
San Diego
-----Original Message-----
From: Gene Rambo [mailto:rambog@erols.com]
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: torque tube question
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
I have seen a number of people talk about putting a shim under the forward
torque tube bearing to raise it up off the floor. I always assumed that
this was because the torque tube touched something, most likely where it
passes through the back of the front seat between the "V" formed by the
square spruce diagonal braces. Is this correct?
My torque tube sits flat on the floor at both the front and back ends
without a shim. It did touch slightly at the front seat back, but a light
touch with a small sanding drum gave it clearance. My problem is that with
the interconnect between the front and rear control sticks, the interconnect
hits the "V" brace on the side that it is on with what appears to be a very
small aileron deflection.
Have some of you had this problem? I am wondering whether the shim under
the front bearing may have been to raise the torque tube up so that the
interconnect hits the diagonal later, or maybe some of you have "jogged" the
interconnect so that it does not hit, or maybe whether the aileron travel I
have is sufficient and I am worrying about nothing.
Sound familiar to anyone??
Gene
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: torque tube question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "walter evans" <wbeevans@worldnet.att.net>
What I remember is that since the floor is "bowed", the attach point in the
rear and in the front is not on a flat plane. I had to put a "wedge" under
the front bearing to keep things in line, and to keep the tube from binding.
Later after final assy, the connecting tube from front stick to back, rubbed
under the arch in the bulkheads. Had to get Mr. Dremmel into the act on that
one.
walt
NX140DL
15 1/4 hrs down, out of 25
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: torque tube question
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
>
> I have seen a number of people talk about putting a shim under the forward
> torque tube bearing to raise it up off the floor. I always assumed that
> this was because the torque tube touched something, most likely where it
> passes through the back of the front seat between the "V" formed by the
> square spruce diagonal braces. Is this correct?
>
> My torque tube sits flat on the floor at both the front and back ends
> without a shim. It did touch slightly at the front seat back, but a light
> touch with a small sanding drum gave it clearance. My problem is that
with
> the interconnect between the front and rear control sticks, the
interconnect
> hits the "V" brace on the side that it is on with what appears to be a
very
> small aileron deflection.
>
> Have some of you had this problem? I am wondering whether the shim under
> the front bearing may have been to raise the torque tube up so that the
> interconnect hits the diagonal later, or maybe some of you have "jogged"
the
> interconnect so that it does not hit, or maybe whether the aileron travel
I
> have is sufficient and I am worrying about nothing.
>
> Sound familiar to anyone??
>
> Gene
>
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: torque tube question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
I can't believe it!! A really simple solution!!! By crossing the
interconnect from the left to right, it does not hit the forward elevator
cable?
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hubbard, Eugene" <ehubbard@titan.com>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: torque tube question
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Hubbard, Eugene"
<ehubbard@titan.com>
>
> Sounds very familiar. I don't know how it ever worked in the plans
> configuration, but if you cross the interconnect from the left side of the
> rear stick to the right side of the front stick, the problem goes away.
>
> I had to shim the torque tube a bit to keep it from hitting the ash cross
> piece.
>
> Gene Hubbard
> San Diego
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gene Rambo [mailto:rambog@erols.com]
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: torque tube question
>
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
>
> I have seen a number of people talk about putting a shim under the forward
> torque tube bearing to raise it up off the floor. I always assumed that
> this was because the torque tube touched something, most likely where it
> passes through the back of the front seat between the "V" formed by the
> square spruce diagonal braces. Is this correct?
>
> My torque tube sits flat on the floor at both the front and back ends
> without a shim. It did touch slightly at the front seat back, but a light
> touch with a small sanding drum gave it clearance. My problem is that
with
> the interconnect between the front and rear control sticks, the
interconnect
> hits the "V" brace on the side that it is on with what appears to be a
very
> small aileron deflection.
>
> Have some of you had this problem? I am wondering whether the shim under
> the front bearing may have been to raise the torque tube up so that the
> interconnect hits the diagonal later, or maybe some of you have "jogged"
the
> interconnect so that it does not hit, or maybe whether the aileron travel
I
> have is sufficient and I am worrying about nothing.
>
> Sound familiar to anyone??
>
> Gene
>
>
Message 17
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Richard Navratril" <horzpool@goldengate.net>
Does anyone have an opinion on the max amount of flex that the axel should have?
I know there has to be some ability to absorb shock, but too much travel will cause
ground loop.
I am thinking 1" should be plenty. ???
Dick
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: torque tube question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Waytogopiet@aol.com
In a message dated 5/7/2003 6:24:22 PM Central Standard Time,
rambog@erols.com writes:
> My problem is that with
> the interconnect between the front and rear control sticks, the
> interconnect
> hits the "V" brace on the side that it is on with what appears to be a very
> small aileron deflection.
>
> Have some of you had this problem
Sure....just reinforce the diagonal and rasp it out to clear the tube.
Works great! Don
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: straight gear |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Doyle K. Combs" <dcombs@Ltex.net>
Benard said 3/4" open when on the ground, I believe.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Navratril" <horzpool@goldengate.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: straight gear
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Richard Navratril"
<horzpool@goldengate.net>
>
> Does anyone have an opinion on the max amount of flex that the axel should
have?
> I know there has to be some ability to absorb shock, but too much travel
will cause ground loop.
> I am thinking 1" should be plenty. ???
> Dick
>
>
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