Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:46 AM - Re: tires, taxiing, & stuff (John McNarry)
2. 08:51 AM - Alodyning aluminum fuel tanks (Woodflier@aol.com)
3. 09:46 AM - Re: Alodyning aluminum fuel tanks (Alex Sloan)
4. 09:53 AM - Re: Alodyning aluminum fuel tanks (Jack Phillips)
5. 10:01 AM - Re: Eaa Hotliner (John Dilatush)
6. 10:21 AM - Brodhead (LAWRENCE WILLIAMS)
7. 10:44 AM - Re: Alodyning aluminum fuel tanks (Richard Navratril)
8. 12:19 PM - Re: Alodyning aluminum fuel tanks (Gene Rambo)
9. 01:41 PM - Adjusted trim (walter evans)
10. 01:53 PM - Re: tires, taxiing, & stuff (and shock cord terminal serving method) (Graham Hansen)
11. 09:47 PM - Re: tires, taxiing, & stuff (and shock cord terminal serving... (Rcaprd@aol.com)
Message 1
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | tires, taxiing, & stuff |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "John McNarry" <jmcnarry@escape.ca>
Just a short comment on tie wraps or as we call them zip ties. The black
ones are way more UV resistant. White ones used here on farm equipment don't
last a year the black ones seem to be good many years later.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard
Navratril
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: tires, taxiing, & stuff
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Richard Navratril"
<horzpool@goldengate.net>
I wrapped mine the way Mike C. describes. I got it from him on a question
about 15 months ago. There is still one thing kind of bugging me about it
though - A NW airlines I&A looked at it and was concerned about the Tie
wrapps annd was very concerned about depending on them. I have decided on
adding a safety "clamp" after I determine that the tensions are right. I
will use rib lacing cord and stich the 2 ends of the shock cord together as
a safety.
Dick N.
Message 2
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Alodyning aluminum fuel tanks |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Woodflier@aol.com
I have a question for all you Pieters who have made your tanks out of
aluminum. I've formed all the parts for the tank and clecoed everything
together. I want to prime the inside particularly to fend off corrosion. The
material is 5052 aluminum sheet, and the traditional method is to clean it up
with a scotch brite pad, then degrease with Prepsol or a degreaser, then dunk
the parts in Alodyne and then wash. I understand this is nasty stuff and not
environmentally friendly, but I have access to the materials and a shop that
does it and can dispose of the materials.
My question is, should I Alodyne all parts of the tank prior to welding it
together, or weld it up except for the bottom, clean and Alodyne the
interiors, and then weld on the final section?
If there are any recommendations for other fuel-proof primers, I'm open to
suggestions on that too.. nothing is written in stone here.
Matt Paxton
Message 3
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Alodyning aluminum fuel tanks |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Alex Sloan" <alexms1@bellsouth.net>
Matt,
Having built two metal RV type aircraft I can speak having been there. All
parts of the aircraft had to be protected from corrosion except the fuel
tanks. I could never find any thing that said to do as you are thinking of
doing. Mr. VanGrunsvan, designer of the RV series, said not to prime the
fuel tanks. I plan to build aluminum tanks for my Piet and will not prime
the interior in any way. I will prime only the exterior parts of the tank.
My tanks will be rivited and sealed using the great Pro-Seal. I will clean
all mating surfaces and scotch Brite them . I use MEK to clean them being
sure to wear protective gloves. Oil from the finger tips can contaminate
the mating surfaces and perhaps not allow the Pro-Seal to adhere. I will
not slosh the tanks as there are some known cases where the slosh was
attacked by some fuel that apparently contained something beside gasoline.
The slosh came loose and created blockage in the fuel system. Pro-Seal, if
applied correctly, will seal up the tank completely. and rest assured, it
will not come off. Acetone does a great job of cleaning up. I will
pressure the tank to 1.5 lbs. of air pressure and test it for leaks using
bubble soapy solution. A blood pressure gage makes a great testing gage to
detect leaks. If it holds the pressure on the gage, you are in business. 55
reading on the gage relates to 1.5 to 2 lbs. of air pressure. I will also
use this.
Sorry for the long post but you ask a very important question.
Alex Sloan
----- Original Message -----
From: <Woodflier@aol.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Alodyning aluminum fuel tanks
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Woodflier@aol.com
>
> I have a question for all you Pieters who have made your tanks out of
> aluminum. I've formed all the parts for the tank and clecoed everything
> together. I want to prime the inside particularly to fend off corrosion.
The
> material is 5052 aluminum sheet, and the traditional method is to clean it
up
> with a scotch brite pad, then degrease with Prepsol or a degreaser, then
dunk
> the parts in Alodyne and then wash. I understand this is nasty stuff and
not
> environmentally friendly, but I have access to the materials and a shop
that
> does it and can dispose of the materials.
>
> My question is, should I Alodyne all parts of the tank prior to welding it
> together, or weld it up except for the bottom, clean and Alodyne the
> interiors, and then weld on the final section?
>
> If there are any recommendations for other fuel-proof primers, I'm open to
> suggestions on that too.. nothing is written in stone here.
>
> Matt Paxton
>
>
Message 4
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Alodyning aluminum fuel tanks |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
HI Matt,
I don't know the definitive answer here, but what I've done is to clean the
areas that were to be welded with a commercial cleaner prior to welding,
then I intend to take the tank to a commercial opeation in Greensboro, NC,
where they can immerse the entire tank in a vat and anodize it inside and
out.
All of this is probably unnecessary, since 5052 has good corrosion
resistance by itself.
Jack Phillips
Raleigh, NC
Where NX899JP just got her elevators covered today. Starting on the rudder
and vertical fin, then the horizontal stabilizer.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Woodflier@aol.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Alodyning aluminum fuel tanks
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Woodflier@aol.com
I have a question for all you Pieters who have made your tanks out of
aluminum. I've formed all the parts for the tank and clecoed everything
together. I want to prime the inside particularly to fend off corrosion. The
material is 5052 aluminum sheet, and the traditional method is to clean it
up
with a scotch brite pad, then degrease with Prepsol or a degreaser, then
dunk
the parts in Alodyne and then wash. I understand this is nasty stuff and not
environmentally friendly, but I have access to the materials and a shop that
does it and can dispose of the materials.
My question is, should I Alodyne all parts of the tank prior to welding it
together, or weld it up except for the bottom, clean and Alodyne the
interiors, and then weld on the final section?
If there are any recommendations for other fuel-proof primers, I'm open to
suggestions on that too.. nothing is written in stone here.
Matt Paxton
Message 5
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Eaa Hotliner |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "John Dilatush" <dilatush@amigo.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: <Isablcorky@aol.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Eaa Hotliner
+++++++++++++++++
Hang in there, Tiger. Yo'all will make it yet!
John
+++++++++++++++++
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Isablcorky@aol.com
>
> Old Pieters,
> There may be hope for us yet. Did all see and read the Eaa Hotline Friday.
> Important to me was: FAA to establish a branch office, Sport Pilot
facility,
> to deal with items pertinent to the SP/SPA activities when the rule is
passed
> which is expected at Oshgosh time. I am putting 41CC in the back of the
> hanger and just waiting. Hope I live that long
> YKW in YKW
>
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 6
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "LAWRENCE WILLIAMS" <lnawms@msn.com>
This is a heartfelt plea to those of you who might not have a lot of Pietenpol
reunions under their belts.
There was a recent post about a Tailwind gaggle going to an unnamed airport as
a jumping off place for Oshkosh. That's all well and good but..........
Please don't advertise (even with good intentions) to any other groups that Brodhead
would be a great place for them to assemble during the Piet reunion. In
the past we have had various groups "drop in" which severely strained the resources
and the volunteers at the airport. Comaraderie is a wonderful thing but
when a volunteer group plans for a particular bunch to show up and about triple
that number arrives........ you get the picture.
I'm sure the field loves to sell all the gas but other things have to be considered
like: longer lines for the shower, portapotties need replenished more often,
gathering food for the dinner has to be refigured at the last minute, more
trash to collect, not enough seats at meal-time, and other things that I don't
even know about. This thing is planned for months in advance, last minute changes
are not what future invitations are made of.
I'm sure the planners at Brodhead would be too polite to bring this up as they
welcome any and all, but I have seen and heard their concerns in the past. I guess
if we can all remember that this is the "Brodhead PIETENPOL REUNION", that's
all that has to be said.
Thanks for reading my rant,
Larry
ps. Thank everyone at Brodhead that has ANYTHING to do with putting on the reunion!!!!
Message 7
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Alodyning aluminum fuel tanks |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Richard Navratril" <horzpool@goldengate.net>
Matt
I had some similar concerns building my tank but not corrosion. I worried
about possible future leaks around welded seams.
The welder that put my tank together happend to be into HotRods. He had a
gatalog from Eastwood Company , 1-800-345-1178 specializing in racing /
custom auto etc. Try www.eastwoodcompany.com They have a fuel tank
sealer suitable for coating the inside of antique fuel tanks to seal leaks.
You can coat the entire tank or as I did, order a pint, enough to seep into
all seams.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: <Woodflier@aol.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Alodyning aluminum fuel tanks
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Woodflier@aol.com
>
> I have a question for all you Pieters who have made your tanks out of
> aluminum. I've formed all the parts for the tank and clecoed everything
> together. I want to prime the inside particularly to fend off corrosion.
The
> material is 5052 aluminum sheet, and the traditional method is to clean it
up
> with a scotch brite pad, then degrease with Prepsol or a degreaser, then
dunk
> the parts in Alodyne and then wash. I understand this is nasty stuff and
not
> environmentally friendly, but I have access to the materials and a shop
that
> does it and can dispose of the materials.
>
> My question is, should I Alodyne all parts of the tank prior to welding it
> together, or weld it up except for the bottom, clean and Alodyne the
> interiors, and then weld on the final section?
>
> If there are any recommendations for other fuel-proof primers, I'm open to
> suggestions on that too.. nothing is written in stone here.
>
> Matt Paxton
>
>
Message 8
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Alodyning aluminum fuel tanks |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
I would agree not to alodine before welding, because the welding will burn
it off where you most want it. Personally, I just prime the exterior with a
good self etching primer (Variprime). I have always used Randolph sloshing
sealer on the interior and have never had any trouble with it even using
auto fuel, although I have heard stories of it coming off with fuel which
has alcohol in it. I recently cut open a fuel tank that had sloshing sealer
in it over ten years ago -- I couldn't bead blast the stuff off.
Gene
Message 9
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "walter evans" <wbeevans@worldnet.att.net>
Although my Piet flies hands off as far as stability, reduced power flying only,
I still had an annoying problem with having to hold slight fwd pressure on
the stick at cruise RPM. Became a problem when flying for more than an hour.
I know this was talked about awhile ago, I thought I'd add what I did and the results.
The holding fwd pressure virtually went away by adjusting the fwd wires on the
horizontal stabilizer. Loosened the lower exactly 2 turns and then tightened
the upper the same 2 turns. When viewing from the front of the plane, with the
root of the stab. flat, the outter leading edge seems to have been raised about
1/8 inch.
Test flew it and it was right on the money.
walt
in NJ where the sky was all the way to the ground all day
Message 10
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: tires, taxiing, & stuff (and shock cord terminal |
serving method)
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Graham Hansen" <grhans@cable-lynx.net>
Group,
With reference to the time-honored method of "whipping" (or "serving") shock
cord
loop-type ends, a good authority is AIRCRAFT MAINTENANCE for the AIR-
PLANE MECHANIC by Brimm and Boggess, 1940, pp.397,398.
Essentially, B.& B. say that rib stitching cord be used; the elastic shock
cord be stretched at least 10 % while being served; each turn of the
wrapping be secured by a half hitch; the length of the served section be at
least 4 times the shock cord diameter. The half hitches should be in a neat
line and a couple of coats of clear dope over the whipping is recommended.
Nylon tie wraps could prove handy to hold the shock cord together while
doing the whipping job, but I would hesitate to rely on them alone to secure
the terminal ends.
I have used the serving method described above on landing gear shock cords
and ski rigging for over 50 years and it has always proved to be reliable.
I use it on the straight axle landing gear of my Sperry Messenger Biplane
reproduction and it is completely satisfactory---except that now I'm getting
too old and weak to stretch that 1/2" shock cord anymore!
This serving method has been around since the early days of aviation and is
very much in keeping with the period represented by BHP's aeroplane.
Graham Hansen (Pietenpol CF-AUN in sunny, but cool, Alberta, Canada)
Message 11
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: tires, taxiing, & stuff (and shock cord terminal |
serving...
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com
In a message dated 5/11/03 3:54:32 PM Central Daylight Time,
grhans@cable-lynx.net writes:
<< With reference to the time-honored method of "whipping" (or "serving")
shock
cord
loop-type ends, a good authority is AIRCRAFT MAINTENANCE for the AIR-
PLANE MECHANIC by Brimm and Boggess, 1940, pp.397,398.
Essentially, B.& B. say that rib stitching cord be used; the elastic shock
cord be stretched at least 10 % while being served; each turn of the
wrapping be secured by a half hitch; the length of the served section be at
least 4 times the shock cord diameter. The half hitches should be in a neat
line and a couple of coats of clear dope over the whipping is recommended. >>
This is how I did my split axle gear bunji's. Speaking of split axle, didn't
Piper Aircraft copy this design from Pietenpol ?
Chuck Gantzer
with most of a 72 X 42 prop whittled out.
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|