Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:21 AM - Re: questions (Gene Rambo)
2. 05:19 AM - Re: questions (Kip & Beth Gardner)
3. 05:58 AM - Re: questions (John Dilatush)
4. 06:14 AM - Longeron (Ken Rickards)
5. 06:16 AM - Re: questions (rambog@erols.com)
6. 06:38 AM - Re: Longeron (del magsam)
7. 07:00 AM - Re: Longeron (DJ Vegh)
8. 08:27 AM - C-85 temperature bulb adapter (Sayre, William G)
9. 10:05 AM - Re: Weld 4130 steel (cat_designs@juno.com)
10. 10:38 AM - Re: Longeron (cat_designs@juno.com)
11. 10:39 AM - Re: Longeron (Alex Sloan)
12. 12:03 PM - Travel Air Model A aero engine (rhartwig11@juno.com)
13. 01:32 PM - Re: Longeron (John Dilatush)
14. 01:36 PM - Re: Longeron (Ken Rickards)
15. 03:45 PM - Re: Longeron (Larry Neal)
16. 03:56 PM - Re: questions (Jack Phillips)
17. 05:30 PM - Re: Longeron (Ken & Lisa Rickards)
18. 08:19 PM - Re: modified the rudder bar with GREAT results (Brants)
Message 1
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
C'mon guys, I have been posting a number of questions on here with minimal
responses! Here is the latest:
Before I put saw to ash, has anyone with a Model A powered Piet had any
reason to extend the engine mount forward? I have my engine mount bearers
which are a couple of inches longer, and before I cut to the length given in
the plans I want to make sure.
As a side story, yesterday I was at a friend's house doing some Piet
woodwork. He is doing trim work on his house (he builds wooden aircraft,
too). He had some trim work he had glued together with Titebond glue. We
took a scrap that was basically three 2" square pieces edge glued together,
so the piece was 6" by 2". I tried to break it apart by hand, nothing
doing. I placed it on the floor with a block under each end and stood on
it, nothing (I weigh about 200). Only when I used the edge of my shoe and
jumped up and down on it did I finally make it break . . . nowhere near a
glue joint. We took another scrap and placed it in a vise and hit it with a
hammer. Broke the wood, never the glue joint. We also found some scraps
that had been out in the rain for several days . . .same result.
This is some stuff!
Gene
Message 2
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Kip & Beth Gardner <kipandbeth@earthlink.net>
At 7:21 AM -0400 06/09/03, Gene Rambo wrote:
>As a side story, yesterday I was at a friend's house doing some Piet
>woodwork. He is doing trim work on his house (he builds wooden aircraft,
>too). He had some trim work he had glued together with Titebond glue. We
>took a scrap that was basically three 2" square pieces edge glued together,
>so the piece was 6" by 2". I tried to break it apart by hand, nothing
>doing. I placed it on the floor with a block under each end and stood on
>it, nothing (I weigh about 200). Only when I used the edge of my shoe and
>jumped up and down on it did I finally make it break . . . nowhere near a
>glue joint. We took another scrap and placed it in a vise and hit it with a
>hammer. Broke the wood, never the glue joint. We also found some scraps
>that had been out in the rain for several days . . .same result.
>
>This is some stuff!
>
>Gene
Hi Gene,
Was this the regular carpenter's Titebond, or the waterprooof polyurethane
('Pro-Bond' & 'Gorilla Glue') type?
I've done spruce test pieces with both Pro-Bond & Gorilla Glue - if you
coat both pieces, then clamp them lightly & let it cure at least 24 hrs,
the joint breaks in the wood every time. I'm still not sure I'd use it for
structural joints, but it's a cheap alternative to T-88 for elsewhere.
I also used it to glue together parts of my daughter's sand box & after a
year out in cold, wet Ohio weather (4 seasons full of mostly damp and/or
frozen sand) the joints are still good. This may be a case where the
technology has gotten ahead of anyone's inclination to put a seal of
approval on it.
One disclaimer, however - these glues claim to be 'gap-filling' & they are
- as a non-structural foam. Don't trust it that way - it has bonding
strength in tight joints only.
Kip Gardner
(making NO Piet progress - I'm up to my ass in Spring project alligators)
North Canton, OH
Message 3
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "John Dilatush" <dilatush@amigo.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: questions
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Gene,
I had some material that I had laminated with Titebond, knowing full well
that it is not water proof, simply water resistant.
Left some samples outside, and sure enough, the manufacturer is right! The
samples delaminated in about 3 months! I would not use Titebond in a plane
unless you could keep the part well protected with varnish etc.
John
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
> C'mon guys, I have been posting a number of questions on here with minimal
> responses! Here is the latest:
>
> Before I put saw to ash, has anyone with a Model A powered Piet had any
> reason to extend the engine mount forward? I have my engine mount bearers
> which are a couple of inches longer, and before I cut to the length given
in
> the plans I want to make sure.
>
> As a side story, yesterday I was at a friend's house doing some Piet
> woodwork. He is doing trim work on his house (he builds wooden aircraft,
> too). He had some trim work he had glued together with Titebond glue. We
> took a scrap that was basically three 2" square pieces edge glued
together,
> so the piece was 6" by 2". I tried to break it apart by hand, nothing
> doing. I placed it on the floor with a block under each end and stood on
> it, nothing (I weigh about 200). Only when I used the edge of my shoe and
> jumped up and down on it did I finally make it break . . . nowhere near a
> glue joint. We took another scrap and placed it in a vise and hit it with
a
> hammer. Broke the wood, never the glue joint. We also found some scraps
> that had been out in the rain for several days . . .same result.
>
> This is some stuff!
>
> Gene
>
>
Message 4
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
I will be getting into the fuselage within the next couple of months.
Looking at the plans, the lower longeron has quite a curve on it from the
firewall back to almost the inst panel on rear cockpit. My question is:
How many people did the bend dry and how did it work out. And for those that
soaked or steamed the wood how did you do it. Need to get this right, as I
don't want to end up cracking the piece.
Ken
GN1 2992
Canada
Message 5
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "rambog@erols.com" <rambog@erols.com>
I didn't mean to suggest that I am using Titebond, just that it is strong
stuff, stronger than I would have thought. Name a glue that does not break
down after several months outside without any protection. Aircraft plywood
does not last through one good wetting without delaminating. I am,
however, using titebond for small non-structural items like filler blocks.
If it is well varnished, it could probably be used for everything NOT THAT
I AM DOING IT.
Gene
Original Message:
-----------------
From: John Dilatush dilatush@amigo.net
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: questions
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "John Dilatush" <dilatush@amigo.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: questions
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene Rambo" <rambog@erols.com>
++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Gene,
I had some material that I had laminated with Titebond, knowing full well
that it is not water proof, simply water resistant.
Left some samples outside, and sure enough, the manufacturer is right! The
samples delaminated in about 3 months! I would not use Titebond in a plane
unless you could keep the part well protected with varnish etc.
John
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
> C'mon guys, I have been posting a number of questions on here with minimal
> responses! Here is the latest:
>
> Before I put saw to ash, has anyone with a Model A powered Piet had any
> reason to extend the engine mount forward? I have my engine mount bearers
> which are a couple of inches longer, and before I cut to the length given
in
> the plans I want to make sure.
>
> As a side story, yesterday I was at a friend's house doing some Piet
> woodwork. He is doing trim work on his house (he builds wooden aircraft,
> too). He had some trim work he had glued together with Titebond glue. We
> took a scrap that was basically three 2" square pieces edge glued
together,
> so the piece was 6" by 2". I tried to break it apart by hand, nothing
> doing. I placed it on the floor with a block under each end and stood on
> it, nothing (I weigh about 200). Only when I used the edge of my shoe and
> jumped up and down on it did I finally make it break . . . nowhere near a
> glue joint. We took another scrap and placed it in a vise and hit it with
a
> hammer. Broke the wood, never the glue joint. We also found some scraps
> that had been out in the rain for several days . . .same result.
>
> This is some stuff!
>
> Gene
>
>
Message 6
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: del magsam <farmerdel@rocketmail.com>
Bend it dry, its not even getting close to the point
of cracking.
Del
--- Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com> wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Rickards
> <krickards@cvci.com>
>
>
> I will be getting into the fuselage within the next
> couple of months.
> Looking at the plans, the lower longeron has quite a
> curve on it from the
> firewall back to almost the inst panel on rear
> cockpit. My question is:
> How many people did the bend dry and how did it work
> out. And for those that
> soaked or steamed the wood how did you do it. Need
> to get this right, as I
> don't want to end up cracking the piece.
>
>
> Ken
>
> GN1 2992
>
> Canada
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
>
Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/pietenpol-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Del-New Richmond, Wi
"farmerdel@rocketmail.com"
__________________________________
Message 7
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper@imagedv.com>
Dry is fine.... You'd have to bend it much tighter to cause any sort of
cracking...
DJ Vegh
N74DV
Mesa, AZ
www.imagedv.com/aircamper
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Rickards" <krickards@cvci.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Longeron
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
>
>
> I will be getting into the fuselage within the next couple of months.
> Looking at the plans, the lower longeron has quite a curve on it from the
> firewall back to almost the inst panel on rear cockpit. My question is:
> How many people did the bend dry and how did it work out. And for those
that
> soaked or steamed the wood how did you do it. Need to get this right, as
I
> don't want to end up cracking the piece.
>
>
> Ken
>
> GN1 2992
>
> Canada
>
>
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Message 8
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Subject: | C-85 temperature bulb adapter |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Sayre, William G" <william.g.sayre@boeing.com>
Looking for the adapter that fits in the oil-screen of a C-85 for the temperature
bulb. The one I have fits a 3/8 inch capillary tube and I need one for 7/16
diameter. Help in locating one would be appreciated.
Bill Sayre
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Weld 4130 steel |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: cat_designs@juno.com
Just goes to show I am not an expert. I always thought the Chrome-moly on bikes
was 4130. Now I don't.
Thanks
Chris
Sacramento, CA
--- Mike <bike.mike@verizon.net> wrote:
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Mike <bike.mike@verizon.net>
Chris Tracy's admonition to avoid brazing 4130 should be underscored.
Everything Chris says is true, save one.
Many, if not most, steel bike frames are brazed, it's true, but those that
are, even though they may be called "chrome-moly," are not generally made from
4130, but from some other high-molybdenum, medium-carbon, steel.
Brazed bike tubing material generally is made with much more manganese than
4130, around three times as much, and less chromium.
Bike frames that are successfully built with 4130 are rare, and either
over-built or welded.
I don't know if the manganese is what enables successful brazing of bike frame
tubing, but a high failure rate is to be avoided, even if your likely outcome
is "only" disfiguring injury.
Mike Hardaway
chris a Tracy wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: chris a Tracy <cat_designs@juno.com>
>
> I think it needs to be said again so no one else has to learn the hard
> way like Carl did.
> If you use 4130 steel it is prone to cracking if you braze it. Do not
> braze 4130. Yes I know bike frames are built out of 4130 and they are
> brazed with a lot of success but if they brake you will most likely not
> be killed. Ever book on aircraft welding I found says not to braze 4130.
> These same books also say you should not weld a joint that has
> previously been brazed. The braze material will contaminate the molten
> metal and make a weaker weld. Now, if you use 1020 steel like the plans
> call for you can braze it just fine and it will be good joint. There is
> nothing wrong with using 1020 steel to build an airplane as long as the
> plane was designed to use it. A lot of the antique airplane are built out
> of it. The only part that BHP calls out as needing to be made out of
> 4130, that I can find, is the rudder bar. Remember, even though most
> people are using 4130 for everything IT IS A CHANGE FROM THE PLANS so you
> need to due your homework on how this change will affect your building
> process. And my study of this change is to weld 4130 in a draft free
> area using a welding method that heats up an area of approximately one*~ half
to one inches on each side of the weld bringing the temperature up
> slowly and after welding you should allow the material to cool slowly in
> a draft free area. Knowing this I choose to gas weld all my parts and
> reheat the weld as well as an area around the welds to release any built
> in stress. I do all me welding in my garage with the doors shut to keep
> the drafts down. I'm not an expert on any of this so you should do your
> own homework to satisfy your own fears.
>
> Sorry, I don't mean to step on any toes but his is one of the things that
> comes up often in the list archives and I just wanted to make sure any
> new people out there get this valuable information.
>
> Chris
> Sacramento, CA
>
> On Sat, 7 Jun 2003 21:54:11 -0400 "Carl Loar" <skycarl@megsinet.net>
> writes:
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Carl Loar"
> > <skycarl@megsinet.net>
> >
> > Del,,, Originally,, the control tubes were brazed, then I redid them
> > after
> > learning that was a no no. That was another pain in the butt lesson
> > I
> > learned but the knowledge never stops on here. So what do you think
> > about the tire deal?
> > Carl
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "del magsam" <farmerdel@rocketmail.com>
> > To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: knobby tires
> >
> >
> > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: del magsam
> > <farmerdel@rocketmail.com>
> > >
> > > Carl
> > > the pics of the torque tube looks almost like the
> > > parts were brazed, not so, I hope.
> > > Del
> > > --- Carl Loar <skycarl@megsinet.net> wrote:
> > > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Carl Loar"
> > > > <skycarl@megsinet.net>
> > > >
> > > > There seems to be a concern about the knobby
> > > > motorcycle tires I have on my
> > > > piet.
> > > > I know most aircraft have smooth tires and it lets
> > > > you slide on the grass.
> > > > But those same
> > > > smooth tires don't slide much on asphalt runways.
> > > > Maybe later I will opt for
> > > > smoothys but
> > > > I think that there shouldn't be a problem with the
> > > > ones I have now. I don't
> > > > plan on doing a
> > > > lot of heavy cross wind landings for a while. My
> > > > early flights will be in
> > > > calm weather. And if
> > > > I do get a cross wind, I'll land like it was
> > > > asphalt. I thought I would
> > > > throw this out and get a
> > > > feel for the groups opinions. Thanks as always.
> > > > Carl
> > > > check out my webpage at
> > > > http://members.core.com/skycarl
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Contributions
> > > > any other
> > > > Forums.
> > > >
> > > > latest messages.
> > > > List members.
> > > >
> > > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > > > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
> > > >
> > > Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/pietenpol-list
> > > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > =====
> > > Del-New Richmond, Wi
> > > "farmerdel@rocketmail.com"
> > >
> > > __________________________________
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
>
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Message 10
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: cat_designs@juno.com
I did mine dry with no problems at all. I have heard that someone had trouble
with doing it dry. I you want to soak them first wrap the portion to be bent
in towels then poor hot water over the towels. Keep the towels hot with more
hot water. Eventually you will have a softened the wood to allow them to be bent.
Chris
Sacramento, CA
--- Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com> wrote:
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
I will be getting into the fuselage within the next couple of months.
Looking at the plans, the lower longeron has quite a curve on it from the
firewall back to almost the inst panel on rear cockpit. My question is:
How many people did the bend dry and how did it work out. And for those that
soaked or steamed the wood how did you do it. Need to get this right, as I
don't want to end up cracking the piece.
Ken
GN1 2992
Canada
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Message 11
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Alex Sloan" <alexms1@bellsouth.net>
Ken,
I drew out the form on my work table which is 24" wide and 16' long. I
drove large nails at the point of the bends where the vertical pieces were
to be glued in. No soaking or steaming. Dry bends on all and I used the
large size I" longerons as shown on the 1932 plans. No problems with
cracking or breaking. Fuselage is now glued with both sides connected and
all plywood glued on. Hope you have the same good results.
Alex Sloan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Rickards" <krickards@cvci.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Longeron
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
>
>
> I will be getting into the fuselage within the next couple of months.
> Looking at the plans, the lower longeron has quite a curve on it from the
> firewall back to almost the inst panel on rear cockpit. My question is:
> How many people did the bend dry and how did it work out. And for those
that
> soaked or steamed the wood how did you do it. Need to get this right, as
I
> don't want to end up cracking the piece.
>
>
> Ken
>
> GN1 2992
>
> Canada
>
>
Message 12
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Subject: | Travel Air Model A aero engine |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: rhartwig11@juno.com
Here is the information on the Travel Air Aviation -Model A Ford
conversion that was pictured in Sport Aviation. Their price seems
reasonable for a very complete engine (does not include prop flange.)
The only thing that I would question is the 7:1 compression ratio. I
have read from other builders that for crank and rod longevity 6:1 is
about max. They do seem flexible though and may be willing to build to
your specs. Their address is 1380 Flightline Blvd., DeLand Airport,
Deland FL 32724. Cell phone 407-497-1090.
Dick Hartwig
THE MODEL A ENGINE
People ask the question, why would a person want to use a 70-year-old
design in a modern homebuilt aircraft? The answer is that the Model A is
a simple, well designed, low priced, four cylinder engine with good
weight to torque ratio. The engine also has a long stroke and develops
maximum torque at low RPM.
The Model A engine was used in several aircraft during the 1930's and
currently powers many aircraft of the Pietenpol line. Probably the
biggest advantage of the Model A is that a multitude of high performance
equipment was developed in the past and is still available today as new
production. Model A powered sprint cars and jalopies are now active in
numerous races and hill climbs across the country. As an example, there
are several different cylinder heads currently available, some aluminum
some cast iron, with various compression ratios. For our particular
configuration, we use a cast aluminum head with dual spark plugs in each
cylinder. There are also various ignition systems available from pure
electronics to the older points and condenser. We use a dual electronic
distributor for our set up.
Carburetors are another area with lots of choices. We use a dual set up
with twin Solexes. Many of the racers prefer either a single or dual
model 94 or 97 Stromberg. Several types of up-drafts are also available.
A selection of different camshaft grinds are also available to enhance
performance.
With various up-grades in performance equipment, it is possible to
achieve torque ranges over 160 lbs./ft at crankshaft speeds as low as
2000 RPM. This little engine will put out half the torque at 2000 RPM
that the Chevrolet 350 engine puts out at 3000 RPM, at less than one half
the weight. Torque at low speeds is important when choosing an efficient
propeller.
There are numerous other mods that we incorporate in our engines such as
pressure oil systems, inserted bearings, aluminum radiators, etc.
Specifications:
Engine basic weight including dual carbs, dual ignition, exhaust pipes,
alternator 196 lbs.
Aluminum radiator and coolant - 22 lbs
Starter Assembly - 10 lbs.
Note - Weight can be reduced by using single ignition, single carb. and
manual start.
MODEL A "AERO" By Travel Air Aviation
Basic Engine Package
1. Reconditioned original Model A block
2. Cylinders bored .080 over standard.
3. Block line bored and machined for modem insert bearings. Block
modified for full pressure oil system.
4. Crankshaft reconditioned, balanced and drilled for full oil pressure
system.
5. Connecting rods balanced and machined for modem inserts.
6. New pistons, rings, valves, springs, guides, tappets, seats, keepers,
oil pump kit and water pump.
7. Camshaft machined for high performance, (special grind)
8. Custom made light weight aluminum oil pan.
9. Light weight aluminum cylinder head with dual spark plugs and 7/1
compression.
10. Custom dual electronic ignition with top mounted distributor.
11. Dual Solex carburetors with associated intake manifold.
12. Custom exhaust - "straight pipes"
13. High torque starter including drive pulley/ring assembly and starter
mount.
14. Light-weight alternator. (30 amp)
Complete package includes spark plugs, ignition wiring, drive belt, break
in oil and oil filter installation. All engines pre-run on test stand
prior to delivery.
Price complete $4,880.00 (plus sales tax for Florida residents and
shipping)
Deposit on complete engine - $2,000.00. Balance on delivery. Delivery
time - generally 30 to 60 days depending on work load.
30 to 60 days depending on work load.
Message 13
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "John Dilatush" <dilatush@amigo.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Rickards" <krickards@cvci.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Longeron
++++++++++++++++++++++++
Ken,
Leave the longerons about a foot longer at the front end and cut them off
later. This will give you leverage to bend them to the contour that you
want and will allow you to bend them dry.
Hope this helps,
John
++++++++++++++++++++++++
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
>
>
> I will be getting into the fuselage within the next couple of months.
> Looking at the plans, the lower longeron has quite a curve on it from the
> firewall back to almost the inst panel on rear cockpit. My question is:
> How many people did the bend dry and how did it work out. And for those
that
> soaked or steamed the wood how did you do it. Need to get this right, as
I
> don't want to end up cracking the piece.
>
>
> Ken
>
> GN1 2992
>
> Canada
>
>
Message 14
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
> Thanks for all the replies on the longeron issue. As no one seems to have
had a problem doing it dry, that's what I will do. Although, if you are
lying in bed one night and you hear a load scream coming form the north,
you'll know what happened!!
Thanks again to everyone for their input.
>
> Ken
>
> GN1 2992
>
> Canada
>
>
Message 15
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Larry Neal" <lneal@ev1.net>
Yes, and bend it slowly. Spruce will do just about anything if you take
your time.
----- Original Message -----
From: "del magsam" <farmerdel@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Longeron
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: del magsam
<farmerdel@rocketmail.com>
>
> Bend it dry, its not even getting close to the point
> of cracking.
> Del
> --- Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com> wrote:
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Rickards
> > <krickards@cvci.com>
> >
> >
> > I will be getting into the fuselage within the next
> > couple of months.
> > Looking at the plans, the lower longeron has quite a
> > curve on it from the
> > firewall back to almost the inst panel on rear
> > cockpit. My question is:
> > How many people did the bend dry and how did it work
> > out. And for those that
> > soaked or steamed the wood how did you do it. Need
> > to get this right, as I
> > don't want to end up cracking the piece.
> >
> >
> > Ken
> >
> > GN1 2992
> >
> > Canada
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions
> > any other
> > Forums.
> >
> > latest messages.
> > List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
> >
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/pietenpol-list
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> =====
> Del-New Richmond, Wi
> "farmerdel@rocketmail.com"
>
> __________________________________
>
>
Message 16
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
I have a name ... resorcinol. It will withstand immersion for 24 hours in
boiling water (at least according to the Mil-Spec). I built most of my
Pietenpol with it, the rest with T-88.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rambog@erols.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: questions
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "rambog@erols.com" <rambog@erols.com>
I didn't mean to suggest that I am using Titebond, just that it is strong
stuff, stronger than I would have thought. Name a glue that does not break
down after several months outside without any protection. Aircraft plywood
does not last through one good wetting without delaminating. I am,
however, using titebond for small non-structural items like filler blocks.
If it is well varnished, it could probably be used for everything NOT THAT
I AM DOING IT.
Gene
Message 17
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ken & Lisa Rickards" <KL0914@cogeco.ca>
Thanks John, Good tip... definately one for the keeper drawer.
Ken
GN1 2992
Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Dilatush" <dilatush@amigo.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Longeron
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "John Dilatush" <dilatush@amigo.net>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Rickards" <krickards@cvci.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Longeron
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++
> Ken,
>
> Leave the longerons about a foot longer at the front end and cut them off
> later. This will give you leverage to bend them to the contour that you
> want and will allow you to bend them dry.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> John
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ken Rickards <krickards@cvci.com>
> >
> >
> > I will be getting into the fuselage within the next couple of months.
> > Looking at the plans, the lower longeron has quite a curve on it from
the
> > firewall back to almost the inst panel on rear cockpit. My question is:
> > How many people did the bend dry and how did it work out. And for those
> that
> > soaked or steamed the wood how did you do it. Need to get this right,
as
> I
> > don't want to end up cracking the piece.
> >
> >
> > Ken
> >
> > GN1 2992
> >
> > Canada
> >
> >
>
>
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: modified the rudder bar with GREAT results |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Brants" <tmbrant@usfamily.net>
I wouldn't mind getting your plans on this... I may make the very same
modification.
Tom Brant
Brooklyn Park, MN
----- Original Message -----
From: "w b evans" <wbeevans@verizon.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: modified the rudder bar with GREAT results
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "w b evans" <wbeevans@verizon.net>
>
> Just to let everyone know that with all my complaining about the rudder
bar, I had to do something. Thought of putting my heels in "sturrups" to
ride with the bar, but would be hard getting to the brakes. Besides it's
uncomfortable.
> Desided to build the mod around the fact that I like to keep my heels on
the deck and use the rudder with my flipper feet.
> So I picked a design and went with it,,,,I tried by putting some tubing
cut to give a rectangle above the rudder bar that my toes could push on.
This brought the top of the tube to about where the forward rudder pedals
are. Made them 3" wide, and about 3 1/2" high, starting about 1" in from
the center line hole of the cable connecting point on the end of the tube.
This wouldn't interfere with the stops, or the seat, or anything.
> Anyway, if anyone wants more details, I'll send it to you.
> Now I can feel the rudders with my toes, and the landings are not a
mystery, wondering if I'll make it OK. Now I have much better feel of the
plane, and control on landing.
> "My toes were trained,,,my legs were not"
> I'm happy as a clam.
> walt evans
> NX140DL
>
>
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